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audiogatorjim

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Everything posted by audiogatorjim

  1. I don't know but I will measure and see if it does. Thanks so much!
  2. I called Klipsch and they don't have any more. Does anyone repair these drivers? Or, could someone diect me to a source that might? Or, is there a replacement driver someone can recommend? Thanks!
  3. Hey guys, I am the seller of the components from the La Scalas presently listed on ebay. I bought the pair of La Scalas about a year ago locally. The cabinets were in poor shape but they sounded great; I even bought a Harmon Kardon HK 730 receiver as recommended on this forum. I had ideas about making some very nice cabs for them and getting some ALK'sbut realistically didn't have the time. So, I decided to remove the drivers and crossovers from them and sell them to, hopefully, someone who can build a cabinet and keep them going.( That's why I didn't "part them out.") I am a vintage audiophile who treasures old, vintage gear. (My main system is a Quad ESL 57's, Fisher 400C pre, SA 300 amp) Anyway, the La Scalas were great sounding speakers. I want to clarify one point; I never heard any rattling from either speaker. It was only when I removed the woofers and noticed someone had placed some masking tape on the back of the woofer that stated "rattling." I then hooked both woofers up, in free air, to a receiver and both sounded clean and normal. (albeit without cabinet) I noticed the screws to both woofers were not as tight as they should be. So, I am not sure what the message on the tape was referring to because I do not think any of the woofers are blown. I just wanted to clarify this on the ebay ad. I visit this forum occasionally and it's fun to see all the mods you guys are doing to Klipsch speakers. When I was 20, I built a pair of K-Horn cabinets using drivers from Speakerlab. I know the throat was wrong but they sounded ok. That was my first foray into horns. Sorry for the rant; Merry Chistmas to all!
  4. You can look back on this site and find a before and after photo. They look better than the photo. I'll try to post some more this weekend. Price...I don't know. I was thinking between 1250 and 1500, to recover my investment plus a little for my time in refinishing. I didn't particularly want to sell these on ebay.
  5. Q, I live in North Florida. I probably might sell the bottoms if 1) I could sell the tops to someone, and 2)There was no interest in the speaker as a whole. I'll keep you informed.
  6. I don't know if this inappropriate for this forum; I'm sure I'll be informed if so. It looks like I'll have to sell the older Klipschorns I acquired recently. I have refaced them and they look pretty good. They have an older crossover and what looks like cast midrange horns. The buyer may have to make some adjustments to allow the top and sides to couple to the wall properly. (The pieces of mahogany were slightly larger than the original top) If there is any interest, please let me know. Thanks.
  7. Hi 3D, Thanks for the tip. A couple of questions: Is this foam a typical rigid styrofoam (typ white)? Do you install the foam on the vertical back board? So, the foam would be 18" wide by whatever height. I am still trying to figure out the sound comes out of the bass bin hits the back panel and then uses the room walls to disperse into the room. If you have seen my previous posts, you can see that the back panel on mine, (because I altered them) the sides do not touch the room walls. There is at least a 1" gap here. Anyway thanks!
  8. Thanks Q. I will do exactly that. And, I will report my findings.
  9. It's always something. I have taken another look at it and my new top panel is only about 1" deeper in the back than the original top panel. When the speaker is pushed tight to a corner, the sides of the vertical back is approx 2" or less from the side rooms walls. I am thinking these walls need to touch/seal to the side walls.
  10. I have completed my repaneling of my older K horns. They look great! However, for reasons pertaining to ease of cutting/covering the older cabinet, the top of the speaker (the very top of upper cabinet) was made larger. Hence the vertical back of the speaker sets off the wall when the sides of the top are against the corner walls. Is this a problem? I have read where optimum results occur when both sides of the back vertical member is tight to the wall. It seems like the bass is a little lame. I could adhere a larger back panel where they side would touch the wall. Any comments appreciated. If unclear, I could post a picture. Thanks!
  11. That's good enough for me. Who am I to question Mr. Klipsch, a flat-out American icon. Frankly, I can say I have never really ascertained a "defraction" problem with any speaker I have built or heard. One time, however, I placed a felt ring around a Dynaudio tweeter and it made the imaging sound smeared. My point being, just because someone says it's so doesn't necessarily mean it's true. In Mr. Klipsch's case, it probably is!
  12. I moved them back to horizontal tonight to see what they sound like. It's rather easy to move them back to vertical. One slight faux pas...I didn't mirror image the cutouts. Also, my version has the EV tweeters back mounted, ie, the plywood thickness is in front of the tweeter edges. Possible refraction issues...maybe??
  13. Correction from previous post.....the suggestion was made by LynnM Sorry and thanks!
  14. Actually, Bill, I fully wish to share the results of my appearance upgrade of the K horns with members of this forum. My design was not flawless, but it turned out ok. I still have to rub tung oil on the stained mahogany veneer I used. If I remember your questions, I bought them from an ad in the paper for $500. (Oddly, the seller advertised they were in "excellent condition!" As you can see from the picture I posted, that "EC" was a bit of a stretch. Secondly, I am not going anywhere with the speakers; they weigh to much. Seriously, I am pretty happy with them right now. I did just tonight move the tweeters back to their original location above the mids, as Mr. Olson suggested. I have read it may be beneficial to stuff the upper enclosure with something. Why. I don't know. Anyway, thanks for your interest. I'll post some more pics shortly.
  15. Yes, I relocated the tweeter to the side vertical mount. I considered placing it above the mid horn but felt the cabinet would be to tall and the tweeter too high. My guess is these speakers are an old version. They are made of plywood and had remnants of the "cane" grille cloth. I have numerous pictures which I can post; there is one depicting a finished version on this post. I hope my placing the tweeter adjacent to the mid was not a huge tactical error. They sound pretty dang good! Any help from you guys is very appreciated.
  16. As I have posted previously, I bought some older K horns and have just cosmetically upgraded them. The only change I made was to relocate the tweeters to a vertical mount. It is hard for me to figure how to connect the woofer leads from the bass horn to the crossover, to maintain correct polarity. There does not appear to be labeling to assist. So, is there a way to determine this without opening up to see the woofer connection? Also, is there a way to find out if the bass horns are working corrected as designed? They seem to be but the low sounds are not real pronounced, (which maybe is how it should be on some recordings) I don't have any test CD's. Thanks for any assistance!
  17. As I have posted previously, I bought some older K horns and have just cosmetically upgraded them. The only change I made was to relocate the tweeters to a vertical mount. It is hard for me to figure how to connect the woofer leads from the bass horn to the crossover, to maintain correct polarity. There does not appear to be labeling to assist. So, is there a way to determine this without opening up to see the woofer connection? Also, is there a way to find out if the bass horns are working corrected as designed? They seem to be but the low sounds are not real pronounced, (which maybe is how it should be on some recordings) I don't have any test CD's. Thanks for any assistance!
  18. John, I don't think they are Speakerlab. The tweeters are EV, the mids are cast and have a raised Klipsch logo. The drivers are all Klipsch and all of the labeling are Klipsch. If I could figure how to download multiple pictures, I think it would be clear. Can you advise??
  19. The photo is the first one of a series of eight, showing the evolution of my process. I do not know how to download multiple photos. Anyway, they sound just wonderful. It is hard to believe how efficient these are. Perhaps someone can ID their age. (I asked from a previous post)
  20. I sure will John. It will be later today. Thanks for your's and other's help. This is a blast. Incidentally, I am going to redo the grilles and cover the speakers in 3/4" mahogany plywood, which should look great. Once done, I'll post some pictures to this forum.
  21. The horns are some type of metal, perhaps cast. Thanks. On second inspection, I would say they are cast. The Klipsch name and emblem are on the top of the horn, raised up off the outer plane of the horn. The bass horns both have original labels but the serial numbers are not legible. I cannot detect any type of stamped serial number on the bass enclosure (plywood). I have already relocated the horizontally mounted tweeter to a vertical location adjacent to the mid horn.
  22. I recently bought a pair of older Khorns. The serial number cannot be made out. The midrange horn looks like it was made by Klipsch and the tweeter looks like an EV. They look horrible but sound great; I am going to refinish them with mahoganyand new grilles. Anyway, the older crossover is labeled as "Type 1RD" (it is called a balancing network) Are there any worthwile mods anyone is aware of to these models? Also, is there any benefit to relocate the horns flush with the baffle instead of rear-mounted? Thanks. P.S. This is my first post to this forum!!!
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