doctorcilantro

Across the switch meaning......on the TT button switch right? Dr. C

http://www.ixbt.com/multimedia/esi-juli@-en.shtml Interesting card & interesting review.... Dr. C

I have to jump in here Muege. You said you have tested an Audigy2 (known to be better for gaming EAX stuff) and an M-Audio Revolution card which is a card you can find for 75$ dollars, and is not their best card. Any of the Delta cards or the 24/96 or 192 outperform this card. "It really blows" ???? I'm sorry but I don't see how you can justify this highly insightful observation, and make a sweeping generalization because you did some tests on two lower end cards. You still haven't provided the information regarding how you perfomed these "tests". And from what I am gathering on the web, jitter may be a red herring. I am going to call Scott Nixon this week and get his opinion as he is renowned digital guru will most likely have some hard data to back up his arguments. Dr. C

http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accspowr&1112539401 In light of a recent thread I saw these for a good price on Audiogon (and the fact that I got new RF-7's for 800$ from a post here), and thought I'd spread the word. They are the Audio model with 2 sockets. I am holding out for the 8 outlet model, but was tempted as the price is right. Dr. C

What about the RF-7's at 4 ohms. Is this okay to try? Organ, I have some Monster cable I may nnot need if you want it for Bi-wiring. Let me check how long it is and you can have it for the ship cost. Dr. C

I have this pop that occurs through the speakers when I turn off my TT; a VPI HW 19. If the preamp volume is all the way down it doesn't occur. The TT is grounded to the preamp; from the Cardas phono box and also the TT motor housing. I recently had a little BUZZ on there too so ground everything to Earth ground which fixed it. That buzz is gone today w/o Earth ground wire. The TT and Carver preamp are two prongers, and I have tried switching the plugs polarity in a number of combinations. Everything is plugged into an SL Waber power conditioner and when I plug the the TT into a lone outlet (in the same room ) I still get the pop. This used to happen with the Sherwood S-5000 no matter where the volume level was set and no matter what input was selected. On the Carver the volume has to be up and the Phono stage has to be connected. Any ideas? I have a small AC capacitor that Tom Tutay made me to try plugging in near the Sherwood, but I have to find it first. I have tried different sets of 12AX7's in the Carver as well. Dr. C

What about the RF-7's at 4 ohms. Is this okay to try? Organ, I have some Monster cable I may nnot need if you want it for Bi-wiring. Let me check how long it is and you can have it for the ship cost. Dr. C

bump

We were the watching Buena Vista Social Club dvd last night on the new RF-7's. When I walked over the Quicksilver's the EH-KT88's were glowing blue; top, middle, bottom. It was kind of hazy so I first thought I was seeing things. I read alittle on AA about this....should I be worried? Dr. C

Things are sounding WAY too good in here right now. A little smokey but some pinesol shoudl cure that. I had to post some pics of new gear since all this is new this week. Gotta run to eat .....WAF factor pending! (ps please laugh at my crappy rack and ghetto speaker wires) Things are a little tore up still from this crazy week....I usually hide most of the wires for WAF sake.

A few of us were just having this discussion. Look below. I am listening to ripped .ape files upsampled to 32/88 playing analog 1/4" out to the Sunfire....& the NEW RF7's.......oh man. Dr. C

I'm getting them. 800$ ADRENELINE Dr. C

I just talked to him. I live in Tampa. A friend and were talking and wondering how much percent increase is a gained for RF-35's >>> RF-7's.......I want to go buy these right now. Am I going to see a big jump in quality???? My room isn't huge & I am rather satisfied with these RF-35's. I think I am going to pass on this MAJOR deal ...which is unheard of for me. Self restraint for once...unbelievable. I just got the Quicksilver's & Sunfire Classic Pre setup.....gotta go listen to music ...must resist driving to St. Pete!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dr. c

I understand that, but what DAC's ON cards have you tested for jitter? If I am using a dvd-rom drive for playback through a PC, it is read digitally then the card's DAC does the conversion to analog. Using my HD the card also converts to analog since I am using the 1/4" outputs. My understanding was that cards are locked to the CPU clock. I'm not trying to be antagonistic, but I wonder what the measurable jitter specs are for some of the higher end pc cards are. thanks Dr. C

Which cards have you personally tested for jitter an dhow, I am curious. thanks Dr. C

My thought is that how bad can the jitter be on a card like the M-Audio 192? Also, if we are playing cd's in cd-rom or dvd-rom drives using the digital method, is there some kind of jitter correction that can be implemented through the playback software. I use the DSP settings of J. River's Media Center to upsample to 32/88. My point is that if we have a PC hard drive based playback system there shoudl be a way to apply some kind of jitter correction. Then if we can reduce vibration and cable lengths wouldn't that also help? DR. C

Now I am getting the upgrade bug.........GREAT *sigh* I think I may sell my Delta 44. I don't do much recording anymore and the M-Audio 192 would allow me to run a mic in when neccessary. I'll run a digital cable to an out board DAC and then into my preamp. For recording I'll stick with an analog balanced XLR output from the preamp an the M-Audio 192. But what if playing back 32bitfloat/192kHz on my PC .....won't a DAC limit or resample that? Is there any way around this? Going direct from card to preamp woul dbe the best but my preamp doesn't have an A/D converter. DR. C

There are some pretty high end power supplies out there that are fanless w/ no moving parts. I use an M-Audio Delta 44. It doesn't have any digital outputs, just 1/4" TRS. They have a new 24/192 card out that has 1/4" and also some digital outs. Looks like a really great card for the money. In my situation I guess I could benefit from a DAC. I'm surprised though because at the price point what else is an M-Audio Delat 44 trying to accomplish. Ins't the main purpose to provide quality DAC. It's not a preamp with 12 stages in it. I would like to get a DAC unit but I'm stuck with 4/4 analog in/out. Sounds good for now. Maybe someday I'll switch over to a DAC & M-audio 24/192 card and use two digital cables for in/out. DR. C

I currently use PC output of 32bit/88kHz. I am in the works of transforming my PC into a silent PC (for the second time), to reduce vibration. There will only be 3 hard drives, mounted on rubber grommets, inside the case. No fans for PSU and CPU (watercooled with Reserator). I am trying to understand what causes jitter besides long cables, physical vibration, and inconsistanies in DAC clocks, etc. For those of you using Jitter Killers, do you see a marked improvement. Although my soundcard is a fairly high end card it does have a long 6ft analog cable running to a breakout box that uses 1/4" balanced or unbalanced cables; a positive is that the PC output is easily integrated with my stereo; although my M-Audio 24/96 had rca's directly on the card. Even if you buy a high end cdp people are upgrading them like everything else. Where does it end? I see Denon DVD-2910 mods available for only....1200$ I plan on using my dvd burner as my cdp for a while since I plan to have everything ripped to digital at some point. I would like to get a decent dvd-a, sacd player too, to make things a little easier, but for now I am going to try this and entertain the idea of adding a jitter killer. comments....experiences? Dr. C

Anyone in the Tampa/Sarasota area have a tube tester I can borrow. I need to test some 12AX7's, 6992's, EL34's, & KT88's. Jon 813 313 4992 jcatuccio@tampabay.rr.com

ORgan - no impedance graph for the RF-35? Not in the specs? Maybe we can ask Trey or Dean ; )could ask since he has a repoire with him. I am going finish this CC89259 speaker cable and biwire at some point. Right now I am using the 4ohm tap. New amps so it's hard to discern what's going on as it all sounds so good. Once I get the new preamp and cables done I'll switch between 8 & 4 and see what happens. Glad it's sounding good for you all....and ORGAN>>>>>CRANK IT UP! DC

Interesting, my friend has been telling me to try this for a while with my RF-35's. ORGAN - congrats. I will give it a whirl tomorrow. I just had a surprise delivery of some Quicksilver Mini-Mites today. Didn't expect them till Monday, man that was nice, but I was trying to get some homework done : D No preamp yet so I hokked the Denon cdp into the QS's ......my god. SO loud but so clear, I really am stunned. I picked up these amps for 575 shipped and they look & sound brand new. Would bi-wiring pose as any kind of variable when considering going to 4ohms??? dazed & amused, Dr. C

I'm kind of interested to hear how much juice we're all using. Family of two, small apt., one PC on all the time, AC (Florida): 33 killowatt hours a day average up from 25 in November. That runs you about 111$ here in Tampa. DC

Your're right, they are. At this point I have so much going on I honestly can't remember exactly why we were discussing the front panels, but I know Dean mentioned it earlier. JC

OMG The ship of fool's is sailing into the sunset...luckily I stayed in port. I keep reading that Craig, people calling Mike etc. I should give him a holler. I guess I am somewhat used to El Capitan or corporate customer service. I was on hold the Chrysler Financial for 19 minutes before I hung out. (my record is 39!) Looks like I'll hopefully be pairing the Mini-Mites with a Sunfire Classic Preamp. I was looking at an Audible Illusions Modulus M3 but I think it get sold tonight.... thanks, JC PS anyone down in Florida....tampa bay area?