doctorcilantro
-
Posts
463 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by doctorcilantro
-
-
I've ditched my recent post about a new preamp, deciding that I don't need one.
I'm going to run from my Lavry DA-10. It has a volume range of 0-56 (1db per step, with the volume control of the DA10 set to 28
with a balanced input or 34 with an unbalanced input, the level is very
close to 0.5Vrms.I'm currently using RF-7s but someday dream of the LaScala II.
I have been looking around and reading a bit on the SET stuff. The VRDs also might fit the bill.
I'm looking at a 2K MAX budget.
My sunfire pre would put out 323mv at 3 o'clock and that was very loud for the RF-7s via Mini-Mites.
I tested a -20 0dbfs sine wave with a voltmeter and saw about 600mv, pink noise (also referenced to the Replay Gain standard ...83db?) was about 300mv average.
Obviously I want to find a pair of monoblocks that are:
1. Compatible with volume range on DA-10
2. Not noisy for 98-105db sensitive speakers
3. Possibly with balanced inputs (depending on other factors i.e. input sensitvity etc.)
Probably leaving some factors out. I was eyeing the Bel Canto 40, Sixpacs which I found for maybe 2K, Cyber 211 some other stuff on Agon, and Craigs VRDs which are similar to the Mini-Mites with regard to input sensitivity; these could be a real possability.
DC
-
I should be studying.....how many time shave I said that in my 31 years???
Thinking about the box I'm in.....and I just got outside of it for a moment.
My new setup, vinyl that is, runs through the PC essentially. I have a nice DAC (and ADC - two seperate units).....
Earlier today I was thinking about "seperates". I know they are
better but then I was thinking surely some designs of integrateds must
help to minimize the signal path......maybe, maybe not, anyway.
My
other two sources, besides PC audio (digital audio files or live vinyl
monitoring/recording), are Tuner and Tapedeck. I have a spare input on
my EMU1212M soundcard, and essentially a spare input on the onboard
audio (I know..YUCK, but better than it used to be).
Well, what if I find a set of balanced monoblocks with low input
sensitivity (to keep gain options open), sell the Sunfire, and forget
about a preaamp. The Lavry DA-10 DAC has balanced outputs and volume
from 0-56 (which equals something like 5vrms w/ balanced outs).
Basically, I could sell the Sunfire and Mini-Mites to fund a new set of monoblocks.......
crazy....but a definite possability.....
I need to study -
The Rowland Capri is getting some rave reviews, I believe it incorporates video opamps in the circuitry which is causing some "chatter" in various circles.
I love my Mini mites but the Horn Monos are just too interesting to me after reading the detailed investigation of the specs in the Stereophile review.
I've just listed my Mites on Agon. They were my first entry into "hi-fi" after my infamous Sherwood purchase years ago (thanks again Craig!).
I feel like I'm replacing them with something similar, but the Horns should prove a good match for my balanced DAC into a SS pre with a bit more gain than my Sunfire pre.
DC
-
Kind of set on SS for the pre, and I don't need phono, but I have heard those units are supposed to be rather good.
Leaning towards a Rowland Capri at this point.
DC
-
Hi all,
I'm looking for a preamp that has about 3-4 inputs, decent gain (15-20db), at least one set of balanced inputs, solid state.
Under 2K.
Will mate with Quicksilver Horn Monos and RF-7s (possible LaScala II in the future).
I have been eyeing the Juicy Music offerings but I'm sort of hooked on balanced into the pre for my DAC.
I know I'm leaving stuff out, but it's been a long day.
best
DC
-
Give that Stanton a whirl. Maybe run it into your DSD recorder flat and you could try RIAA with a demo of Diamond Cut 7 for PC or Purevinyl for Mac.Diamond Cut has a "virtual phono preamp" and as you probably know they have quite a bit of noise reduction experience (presets).
I'm using a VST plugin but there is also a freeware version (last page newest update): http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f46/software-based-riaa-eq-part-2-a-311909/
DC
-
The fllowing is from the PureVinyl FAQ: http://www.channld.com/pure-vinyl_support_faq.html
I don't use a MAC so I use a VST plugin on a PC.
"I've read on
the Internet that by using a software RIAA equalization / correction
system such as yours, I throw away 6 or 7 bits resolution of
my audio interface! Is that true?That's incorrect, and
is a misconception based on a simplified view of the software-based
RIAA correction process.This subject was the
focus of a technical "white paper"
(click to download) presented at the October, 2007 123rd Audio
Engineering Society Convention in New York. The
slides (aes123slides.pdf) from the presentation also are
available for download.The paper (#P4-6, Filter Reconstruction and Program Material
Characteristics Mitigating Word Length Loss in Digital Signal
Processing-Based Compensation Curves Used for Playback of Analog
Recordings, http://www.aes.org/events/123/papers/session.cfm?code=P4)
proves that software-based correction doesn't compromise audio
quality.Briefly, the low-pass
characteristic of the software RIAA correction filter functions
the same as the low-pass reconstruction filter used in playback
of DSD digital audio ("Super Audio CD"), where a high
sample rate, one-bit stream is low-pass filtered, restoring the
effective digital word length (resolution).With software-based RIAA
correction, music will typically encounter between zero (none)
to one bit of word length loss in the bass, which is insignificant
in comparison to the 24 bit word length of modern, high resolution
digital audio, and in a frequency range where human hearing is
at its least sensitive.In fact, converting the
amplified vinyl signal with the treble emphasis intact, followed
by applying the correction curve in software enhances the
available digital resolution in the midrange and treble,
where human hearing is at its most sensitive, compared to digital
conversion after RIAA correction. Pure Vinyl performs
all internal signal processing at 64 bit resolution, which preserves
the benefit of using the pre-emphasized signal (and, as a bonus,
no distortion is added). Openness, clarity and definition in
the midrange and treble are improved, compared to doing a digital
conversion after the signal has been corrected with a conventional
phono preamplifier. More importantly, Pure Vinyl users have reported
that combining software RIAA correction with a high resolution
(24 bit / 192 kHz) audio interface (and a quality gain stage)
even provides noticeably improved "live" vinyl playback,
compared to a conventional phonograph preamplifier, confirming
our own experience.High resolution digital
conversion coupled with software RIAA equalization represents
the wave of the future. This wave is inevitable, whether it's
from Channel D or someone else. If you're "into vinyl,"
and choose not to go this way, you're really missing
out on superior sound."This app is very well designed from what I have heard from a very knowledgable software engineer. I have never used this particular appbut the results I'm hearing are nice. I'll post some comparision files soon. I'd love to get my hands on an ELP to see what if can do.
D C
-
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?anlgtabl&1226371232&/Elp-Laser-Turntable-+-Declicke
The fact is, we now have the abiltiy to avoid the constrictions of hardware and use the software declicker of choice, in realtime. I'm really excited about the possabilites here. I have utilized digital RIAA (sorry for rambling previously w/o any full explanation), and I also implement a Butterworth rumble filter when playing vinyl. All of this is done on a computer, monitoring via ASIO, with a VST RIAA filter and any noisereduction filters deemed neccesary.
BTW - the ELP declicker is also an ADC with both Toslink and Coax outputs. Maybe it's actually pretty good? I doubt it adds RIAA after ADC conversion (prob. before?) but who knows....
Reports of problems with transients abound with these tables. In complex passages, things "fall apart". Hopefully you can grab as much info as possible off the unit so we can get an idea of it's particulars.
My earlier point was that if thsi unit's major issues, in the past, were due to the gain circuitry, and not the fundamental process of extrapolating the groove's data (i.e. the laser mechanism is the bomb), then combining a newer/refined model or modded model could provided unheard of vinyl playback fidelity if it were combined with digital RIAA implementation. Exciting stuff, but who knows....
I, for one, love my analog rig. True, it takes time to setup, and align azimuth and overhang etc. but man, it would be real interesting it this ELP lived up to its name. I really wonder how it would sound through some light software declicking which seems to be one of the major objections. People are playing these things through analog phono stages, and raving about the high end clarity, which is typically a benefit of using digital RIAA; the two in conjuction could prove unbeatable and deliciously enlightening. Yes, I'm dreaming....time for bed.
DC
-
No digital onboard.
"Just saw this, "Digital S/PDIF coax or optical (TOSLINK) outputs
connect directly to computer or DAT Sample Rate: 44.1 kHz or 88.2 kHz,
user selectable Word length: 24-bit Size: Approx. 220 x 44 x 150 mm
(8.7 x 1.7 x 5.9 inches) ".That is the declicker specs. The declicker converts the analog signal to digital out and analog out in the digital domain.
The manual doesn't tell you much of how it works inside."Save 2K and use ADC/sound card of your choice & preamp.
DC
-
I think the new models have coax/toslink onboard.
I'd like to now what kind of ADC is onboard now.
Either way, getting an older unit, modding it a bit, and pumping that
output into a linear gain pre > ADC > PC for realtime
noiser eduction and RIAA would be insane, VERY 21st century [].
DC -
YADB is growing, but I agree it isn't that cpmprehensive.
MC will do lots of very advanced tagging based on filenames & folder structures. You can tag right in MC (in case that isn't obvious). You can also drag entire albums or genres into the tree and have things tagged; Drag N Tag.
Look under right click a file> Library Tools
does the Godfather submit existing files (ripped) to freedb for analysis???
DC
-
If you right click a file/album in MC12 you 'll see Update From YADB; it's J. River's version of FreeDB.
You can use Player & Audiograbber to search FreeDB and CDDB (Gracenote) for discs you're about to rip, then the cdplayer.ini can auto-exported so that MC12 pulls in the meta data....
http://digitanalogue.blogspot.com/
feel free to email or post with more quesitons
DC
-
I've read about this before. It's interesting. Trying to figure out what this unit outputs....analog or digital? If you could use this system with no RIAA and run it into a nice ADC, then apply RIAA and digital impulse filters....wow. I'll bet the fact that it picks up all the "noise" from dirt etc. might actually let the noise reduction work even accurately.
Found more info:
Output
Standard: Line Output (300mV = 0.3V)
Note: Phono output can be ordered if preferred
Phono output level: 3.2mV rms 5cm/sec 1kHz Lateral = MMLevelThey now sell a declicker with the new units (optional). Combining this table's mechanism with digital RIAA, in theory, is simply unsurpassable in terms of fidelity.
Does this guy have the calibration disc?
"A special calibration LP record is furnished with each Laser
Turntable and is used to set up the optics and microprocessor. The
record has about 20 minutes of grooves with no sound. It is necessary
to run this special disk for about 30 seconds.The calibration disk should be used when you operate the
machine for the first time. Every few months you may elect to run the
calibration disk to maintain tracking accuracy, particularly if you
notice any mis-tracking during playback. When the machine is moved to
another location, it is wise to run the calibration disk again."DC
-
Sounds like fun. I'm tempted to try and carpool with Tidwell as I'm from Tampa. I have a Honda Civic. But I am also a father and grad student.......
DC
-
LOL, sorry mate. I looked at that thread and didn't see your post so I assumed it was AA....I'll have to check on that. Maybe I posted two threads about the Eico. thanks for the heads up. don't worry I have some reserve tubes, and I really want to check out this DA-10.
cheers,
Jon
-
-
Ciao
I have a bunch of nice classical vinyl I'm sifting through right now, so PM if your interested. I'll be adding putting up pictures and listings on my web site this weekend.I'll also be adding more pics for the items below.
Audio Metallurgy .5 meter cables WBT plugs (one has small scratches on
it but overall like new-re-wiring my tonearm so I don't need these):
More info:
Audio Metallurgy GA-0 ic's
These aren't very flexible so plan accordingly. 185 shipped (retail 325)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Zaolla Silverline RCA cable - locking plugs, solid silver core with
copper hybrid. 37" tip to tip. Re-terminated on one end with Dayton
locking plugs. 55$ shipped
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Zaolla RCA pair 5ft. Locking Zaolla pugs. - 135$ shipped
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Zaolla 3ft XLR>RCA (unbalanced w/ 3rd pin floated) 95$
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Audioquest Jaguar 1m 36v dbs xlr 150$ shipped
----------------------------------------------------------------------
TUBES: all tested on Eico 735; 50 is "Good" EDIT*
I've done some more testing and my conclusion is
that this tester is out of sync. Brand new 6922 EH tubes test at 75. I
also have some NOS Amperex USN-CEP that test at 77.
I posted at Audio Asylum and received this response:" You can pretty much guarantee that if never restored the caps etc. on
your tester are dried out or drifted, the meter may be our of spec and
if the Eico uses tubes, they could be old and worn out also.
If your new tubes test at 70 I would use that as a baseline, which means the older 12AX7's are about 3/4's good.
Don't forget small tubes last a long time, so well not new, they
could have a long life ahead of them. Always keep some of the older
spares around. They usually were made better and in applications like
preamps will probably sound better. "
I feel confident that the tester is testing correctly, but has
drifted because I have tested a matched trio of new 6922s and another
6922 that was purchased with them but not matched (for use in a phono
stages infrasonic filter). The trio sit at 75 and the extra 6922 is at
71.
EH 6922 (4) brand new from Jim McShane. Matched tube trio w/balanced sections.
Single tube with matched/balanced sections. 50$ shipped.
Phillips 6922 JAN ECG. 80/80 15$ shipped.
12AX7 RCA USA orange label. Halo getter. Different tooling from above. Short grey plate. 62/62 15$ shipped
12AX7 RCA (3) long ribbed black plate (from Lowry organ; stamped
Lowry so made by RCA). 59/55; 57/55;54/56 nice tubes and still have a
little life - 40$ shipped
12AX7 RCA trio (3) labeled with large print (2) black plate; D
getter. 1950s model, ribbed black plates and “D” getters. 59/58; 56/60;
60/60 - 65$ shipped. One tube (last pic) has same D-Getter but a tiny
bit different from the other two (larger D-getter and smaller black
plate).
12AX7 RCA (4) ribbed grey plate - soon
12AX7 RCA (2) ribbed grey plate - soon
6922 Amperex USN-CEP noted as one of THE best 6922 ever made (2) matched pair 77/78 77/77 - 100$
6922 Amperex USN-CEP noted as one of THE best 6922 ever made (2) matched pair 77/77 77/77 100$
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Carbon fiber vinyl record brush - like new. 16$ shipped
----------------------------------------------------------------------
NEC DVD burner - internal ATA66, highly renowned at CDfreaks. 25$
----------------------------------------------------------------------
PLEXTOR 716AL - I'm selling my Plextor slot load 716AL. It has the
newest firmware and I can secure rip with EAC or J. River. However,
sometimes it beeps and has trouble recognizing discs. I've tried
re-flashing but I'm not sure what's wrong. Solid drive other than this
fussiness. 30$ shipped.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
ATI HDMI/DVI adapter Rev. B (for 3xxx series cards enables audio over hdmi) - 10$ shipped
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Logitech Bluetooth Travelar Headset and Belkin USB Bluetooth dongle- 40$ shipped (http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/we...s/235&cl=us,en)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
PureAV Belkin VGA cable (heavy duty/gold plated) 5ft - 20$ shipped
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Component cable 3ft 9$ shipped
----------------------------------------------------------------------
12ft 26 AWG OFHC Copper wire with unbleached cotton insulation from Homegrown Audio - 30$
----------------------------------------------------------------------
catu ccio@ g mail 00-0-0-0-0- .com (remove all the spaces and funk)
heatID:jonathancatuccio -
My tester has "50" as good with a max of "100".
I'm testing some older 12AX7s and the test at 55/57 52/54 60/59 as a result of the two tests for 12
Real close to being barely "good" , but some brand new 6922 EH test at 70...
How do I interpret these results? I'm selling all my extra tubes. Do I simply need a better tester?
Should the new EH tubes be testing higher; does it sound like it's not properly calibrated?
thanks
DC
-
Maybe Mr. Deneen has some input on why Quicksilvers have 1v instead of 2v for the input sensitivity?
dc
-
Very interesting. So would it be correct to assume that with a CD player, which hads avolume control, that if the knob is cranked to max, it's output is 2vrms?
If so, I wonder if people are outputing a lower output signal. I was using something like .5v out of my DAC1 and I think at 2pm the volume on the Sunfire>Mini-Mites is LOUD....more than I would ever need.
Like I said, the sensitive speakers combined with sensitive input on the mini-mites almost forces me to attenutae at the DAC1 with the calibrated trim pots on the back.
thanks
Jon
-
I've got a question rolling around in my skull about 2vrms standard for CD players.
Since each output for stereo is essentially a separate circuit, does this mean that each channel outputs 2vrms as the standard, or are specs given per channel?
i.e.
- Output level: 2VRMS +/-0.5dB (typical); 2VRMS +/-1dB (limit); 1KHz, 0dB (condition)
I ask because my amps input sensitivity is 1vrms. It would seem that if 2vrms is going to the preamp, and using 1vrms input sens. for the amps with high efficiency speakers would mean that I am attenuating the signal with the preamp, and limiting the volume control range on the pre. Does this attenuation color the sound? I have currently adjusted the output of my DAC1 (which run to the preamp), so that with preamp at max volume with a 0dbfs sine wave, the vrms output of the preamp is .99 vrms. I now have a much more refined volume control.Thoughts?
DC
-
This tester has 50 as the start of the "good" range, and 100 max.
I tubes are testing at 55/57, as a result of the two tests for tubes like 6922 & 12AX7, does that mean the tube is pretty much on its last leg. How much longer should I expect 12ax7's in this range to last in something like Quicksilver Mini-Mites?
DC
-
Some of the 78 archiving discussion on the DCart 7 forums talks about recording stere, using restoration tools, and converting to mono last. Some good tools in that app.
DC
-
L + R contain the same information a mono record groove?
Could I just capture one channel digitally, and record as mono file as well.
DC
].
Deciding on new monoblocks (SET? VRDS?)
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I need to figure out the difference between "triode" and "single ended triode".
I was reading a bit about how some SET designers don't like the 6922/E88CC hence the variations.
I just hooked up my Mini-Mites direct to my DAC. The 1v input sensitivty with 25w per channel is a really good match for my volume control.
I figure that a 16w SET amp with 600mv input would be similar range but I haven't done the math (cuz I can't yet).
I've read here before how you HAVE to use a beefy SS amp for RF-7s. They do have the 2ohm dip but I'm guessing 4ohm tap with something like the Cyber 211 (16w) would work.
DC