chops
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Posts posted by chops
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Charles,
Here is a pic of my latest...stacked,racked and active!
She dont look perty but boy can she sing.Its all an experiment....
Greg
Greg,
Nice! That setup looks mean! LOL
It may or may not be "perty", but neither is mine, but the sound is what counts.
BTW, what are those two units sitting against the right wall. Looks like a pair of 300B monoblocks.
Charles
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Hey Charles,
There is that word again!
Seriously its looking good.I also find that the K-33's just dont sound right run up to 800hz.What is your impression of the high freqencies now that you have heard the 902 all the way to 20k for awhile?
Greg
Greg,
Yeah, I've been saying that word often lately.
As for the 20kHz extension, it didn't really improve. I still haven't opened up those 902 drivers yet, so I'm not 100% sure that they are the aluminum diaphrams. But I'm 99.5% sure.
Charles
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Nice stack o goodies there Chops. I never understood this 'amps on the floor thing' though. So what is the BIG Crown driving- some subs somewhere?
Where did your crossover points end up on the Rane? That's a very nice unit, I have one myself.
Michael
Thanks Michael!
The reason that Technics amp is on the floor is because I don't have any room anywhere else to put it, plus the fact it weighs damn near 60lbs. It also produces a lot of heat, so I don't dare put anything on top of it. However, I do have to say that it sound great, even for being 27 years old. That's the amp my father bought new with the Cornwalls back in '79.
The "BIG" Crown powers my DIY push/pull sub (dual 15" drivers - 6.3c.f. sealed). It delivers 1000 watts @ 8 ohms to the sub.
The crossover point is set at 500Hz for the moment. Most likely, it's going to stay there too. Since running this system bi-amped with the electronic crossover, those K-33E woofers just don't sound as good reaching up to 800Hz crossed over actively as they did passively.
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Well here's the latest. My Klipsch/Altec combo is officially bi-amped!
I have the Solen 51uF caps installed on the (+) terminal of the 902s. BTW, these things are HUGE! They look like small soda cans hanging off the back of the speakers! LOL
I've been tweaking the Rane crossover for the past 5 hours now on all types of music, and I think I have settled on 500Hz as the crossover point. Obviously I still have a lot of tweaking to do with the woofer delay and gains, but for now it sounds pretty darn good... VERY good in fact!
If I had to discribe the sound, I would have to say that it is "ultra clean" at all levels. And there is more detail in the music now as well.
Anyway, as stated before, the small Crown D-75A is powering the Altecs while the old and trusty Technics SU-8099 integrated on the floor is providing 110 watts to the Klipsch woofers. I have yet to see the power meter go past 1 watt to the woofers! And the "signal" LEDs on the Crown barely light up at all. I bet that amp isn't even reaching 0.25 watt!
I'd also like to add that the little Crown D-75A makes ZERO noise of any kind on power up and power down. Let me tell you, that is a huge relief for me!
And now of course are the pictures. Please feel free to comment on the goodies. BTW, the Rane Balance Buddy is sitting on the shelf directly behind the crossover and DVD player.
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wow chops, sandals and steel toe boots are so totally "built for the same purpose".
How do you explain your crappy experiences when many others have had no problems whatsoever? The "wrong" hot pin has been an issue for a long time and was only stadardized a few years ago, before which the industry was split about 60/40. I'm not saying there isn't anything wrong with the ratshack crap, but if you're so concerned you could easily build your own for way less than $100...which is where I was leading in the first place. It's an issue that arises all the time with equipment powered with pro-amps in a consumer setting and there doesn't seem to be any cost-effective solutions out there.
Seriously, no need to take everything so negatively.
Mike is right.
All will work.
Pro to home connections can be a problem
The change can be done for under $100.
Negative is not the way to be.
How do either of you figure I'm being negative? All I'm doing is stating what happened with me and those adapters.
If you all took it as me being negative, then oh well.
Personally, I'm getting a little tired of people trying to tell me how I should act or talk. Don't bother because I'm NOT going to change for anyone. <-- (not negative, just getting a little PO'ed. There's a difference!)
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Another update...
I got the D-75A in today. It's in amazingly great, mint shape for a 12 year old amp! There are ZERO marks on it!
The only flaw was that the potentiometers somehow came loose and someone had spun the knobs so that the wires inside had become twisted and came in contact with eachother. So before doing anything else, I pulled the lid off, pulled the potentiometers out, untwisted them, seperated the wires, put them back in, snugged them down nice and tight and closed it back up.
Before I decided to hook it up to my system, I first connected a small pair of RatShack 2-way bookshelf speakers and my old Sony DVD player up to it. With the gains all the way down, I switched it on. No thumps, snaps, nothing. I hit play on the player and started turning up the gains. Everything worked and sounded fine! I let it sit there and play for about an hour or so while I did a few other things around the house including running a pair of interconnects up to the front of the room and running the speaker cables up to the front, as well as going and getting dinner cooking. Multi-tasking baby!! LOL
Anyway, I just want to say that this amp sounds great! Of course, once I get the proper XLR cables and a balanced signal going to it, I'm sure it will get even better. This amp even adds just a little more sparkle to the sound and has also opened up the soundstage a little more. Me likes!
And what would this post be without at least one good picture. Here it is with the Rane crossover sitting up top. The Rane isn't connected yet but will be soon.
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Well if they serve the same purpose...
Since you've got both and some
measuring equiipment surely you wouldn't mind showing the crappy
frequency response? I've had only good results with huge reductions in
noise floor...perhaps you've got issues with which pin is the "hot"
one? I dunno how to describe the huge difference in experiences.
A transformer is just a few coils of wire wrapped around a ring of metal.
Steel toe boots and sandles serve the same purpose, but you can't go rock climbing with either, now can you?
Like I said already, all transformers are NOT created equal. If you like the RatShack ones, then more power to you, and I feel sorry for you. Personally, I think they sound like $h!t.
If you want to run some tests, then go right ahead. I'm not going to waist my time with it.
Back on topic...
I too agree with Trey and Mike. XLR and RCA are much better choices than 1/4" as far as surface contact is concerned. I'm sure there's got to be an improvement in sound, but not a "in-your-face" improvement. I still say the greatest improvement would be moving up to balanced signals though. [
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Yikes, for a pair of transformers?!?
BTW, you of all people should know that not ALL transformers are made the same, or anything for that matter.
Which would you rather have? A Huffy 10-speed road bike or a Trek hibryd on/off road bike just to ride around on pavement?
I'll take the Trek!
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Yikes, for a pair of transformers?!?
Is it not the same thing as this:
($15)
They got it going the other way too:
($15)
Yeah, it's this little thing called "QUALITY". Something I don't mind putting my money towards. You have to pay for that, or suffer the consequences of garbage in your audio system.
I have a couple pairs of those RatShack converters for going both ways, and they absolutely suck! They induce noise into the system and also roll off the freq range on both the top end and bottom end. If RatShack gave the specs to those things, I bet they'd be something like 30Hz - 12kHz with a S/N ratio of 80dB!
You've seen my system and the freq plots I've posted. I didn't get my system there by cutting corners and compromising equipment. Sure, it's not the greatest stuff money can buy, but it can sure hold its own against much higher end systems.
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OK...
The last CT125 tweeter is sold and the list has been updated.
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Alright...
The last CT125 tweeter is sold and the list has been updated.
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I'm interested in the last CT125 if you still have it.
Larry
Larry,
You have a PM also! [
]Try my email address, lwhaples@fmguy.com
Larry
Ok. Now you have an email. [
]Charles
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I'm interested in the last CT125 if you still have it.
Larry
Larry,
You have a PM also! [
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still have the bass shaker?
You have a PM!
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How much did that BB22 cost?
$139
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still have the bass shaker?
Hi Jay,
Yep, I still have the pair of shakers. Drop me a line if you want them. [
]Charles
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So no more interested members on these items?
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So no more interested members on this stuff?
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Just an update...
I now have 2 Solen 51uF caps on their way here from Parts Express so I can safely use the D-75A on my Altec drivers.
Also on its way here is a Rane BB 22 Balance Buddy so I can convert the unblanced -10dBV output of my receiver to balanced +4dBV before going into the Rane AC 22B crossover and Crown amp.
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O.k. now I've got the urge to change the 1/4" inputs on my EQ to RCA's. I'm tired of wondering how much better it would sound without those damn Rat Shack adaptors back there.
What I would like to use are WBT 0201's but those things cost $20.50 each and that's from some place in Germany.
Anywhere else I can get these things from??
BTW- The EQ (as listed below) is a dbx 1231.
If you want my honest opinion, I would leave the inputs on the dbx alone. If you want some kind of improvement, and since the dbx and your McIntosh MC252 both accept balanced XLR inputs, I would buy a Rane Balance Buddy ( http://www.rane.com/bb22.html ) and insert it between your McIntosh C33 pre and the dbx 1231.
Just run a standard pair of RCA ICs from the C33 to the BB 22, then run a pair of XLR cables from the BB 22 to the dbx 1231, and another pair of XLR cables from the 1231 to the MC252 amp.
That's exactly what I am doing since my Rane crossover and Crown amps all take balanced XLRs. Plus, going this way also eliminates most all noise and hum if there is any. The Rane BB 22 is already on its way.
Just my 2 cents.
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Just use a Solen Fastcap.
If this will be used in conjunction with an electronic crossover and your intended crossover point is 400Hz, you will need alarger cap. I read that you shousl try to be 2 octaves below the electronic crossover point to avoid interferance
Google 'Rod Elliott" (spelling?) and read his articles on bi-amping. I don't have time now, but I can check them later. If you really like your drivers you shoudl also put a fuse in. Everone here was debating it to death btu I'm glad I did, it saved my K77's.
Yes, I'll be crossing the 902s over at 700-800Hz via a new Rane AC 22B. This will be a 4th order Linkwitz filter. The 50uF cap is only being used for amp turn-on/off protection, not as a crossover point.
BTW, this is for Michael....
LOL
I realize that you are not using the cap as a crossover. I have the same Crown Amp. Because you are not using it as a crossover you need to keep the caps's rolloff point two octaves below your 700 to 800 hz actual crossover point. Without looking at a chart, I am assuming that you are covered.
Check out the Rod Elliott article, its a must read for anyone using an active crossover.
Chris
Well yeah, that's what "Tech Letter 205" from Altec says.
I'm quite familiar with active crossovers and how to set them up as I've used one in my home system before and have had several in my car audio systems. It's just a matter of getting this whole amp thump/driver protection thing right. I have NO questions about the active crossover at all. [
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Just use a Solen Fastcap.
If this will be used in conjunction with an electronic crossover and your intended crossover point is 400Hz, you will need alarger cap. I read that you shousl try to be 2 octaves below the electronic crossover point to avoid interferance
Google 'Rod Elliott" (spelling?) and read his articles on bi-amping. I don't have time now, but I can check them later. If you really like your drivers you shoudl also put a fuse in. Everone here was debating it to death btu I'm glad I did, it saved my K77's.
Yes, I'll be crossing the 902s over at 700-800Hz via a new Rane AC 22B. This will be a 4th order Linkwitz filter. The 50uF cap is only being used for amp turn-on/off protection, not as a crossover point.
BTW, this is for Michael....
LOL
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Don't ask me why that link showed up like that. [:^)]
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Well according to Altec, I should be running a 50uF cap to the 902s for a -6dB slope at 400Hz. The only thing is that they recommend a mylar cap, but say that a non-polar electrolytic can also be used.
Is there a difference between going with either type of cap? (sound quality)
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Alcorns now active and bi-amped! Pics included...
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I just use it mostly for movies. Every once in a while I'll play a SACD or DVD-A through it. It's not bad I guess. I really like the video capabilities of it, especially on my 9' wide screen.
For 2-channel audio, I am now using an old cheap Teac 5-disc changer that's about 10 years old. Believe it or not, it sounds better than my brother's Cambridge Audio Azur 640C.
One of these days I want to get a Rega or Arcam. When I'm dreaming however, I want to get a Wadia or a Mark Levinson like what Greg has above. [
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