dcmo

Went to Audacity and downloaded, but then a member on AVS provided a link to an audio disc that another AVS member had created (803 mb file). Haven't had the opportunity to play it in anything but my computer, but the menu systems are very clear forward and allows me to play any single signal I would like. Here's the link if anyone else would be interested in something like this. I like this better than having to run out and get another cable, seems as if it would be a lot easier also with it being in the dvd player. Hopefully the XA2 will play it, if not I will have to hook the Oppo backup for this one. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=742969

I have the dve disc, but I don't see how I could set it to play to play at 15 hz which is what I am trying for. Is this disc capable of tuning the port, or do I need to get another disc to do so. If this one is capable which test should I run, if not what test should be run on a different one.

Well I received the cleanbox yesterday, but while thinking about the task at hand (still waiting on the driver, supposed to be in tomorrow - hopefully it will ship then) I realized (should have known all along, knew it was going to be like this anyway) that it might not be necessary. I say not necessary (still might be though) because it's not the Pioneer that is going to feed it the signal but rather the RSW15. Looking at the specs for the RSW15 it says it puts out a line level signal, but nothing about the voltage. The signal is going to go from the Pioneer to the RSW to the Maelstrom. Will I need to keep the cleanbox in the chain (between the RSW and the Behringer), is the RSW going to feed the Behringer what it needs? Not a big deal at all if I still need to keep it in line, but if I don't need it I will have to return some cables and order new ones. Above you said to slowly turn up the gain control on the EP2500 until I get full output. Does this mean turn it up until I reach reference level (reference level is 75db on the Pioneer)?

So how does one know when the cleanbox has the right amount of voltage being sent? All it says is to adjust the control for the best signal strength and clarity. Does one just keep turning the gain up on the cleanbox until it is at the loudest it can go and still retain the optimum clarity. If so how does one judge clarity with test tones? Is there a device that could test the voltage being sent from the cleanbox? Another line of thinking; if all it needs are 1.23 volts, should this be what one shoots for or would going even a little higher make it easier on the amp. If one can go higher, just how much higher would that be?

I must be blind, but I can't find where he said an adapter would help with low voltage coming off the Pioneer. There is a mod for the cleanbox, already removed my question concerning it from my last post. I think I am going to see how the sub functions without the cleanbox at first. There is a lot I don't know about this (learning though), but when checking out the cleanbox it talked about increasing the gain (which I would assume is another way to say volume). If this indeed the case I know that my RSW15 was always set down about - 2db (with a setting at 12 on the sub) as compared to the front speakers (RF-7's) while being further away than them so I wonder if I need any increase in volume (again assuming that gain and volume are the same). Michael knows what he is talking about, but I have no idea what role voltage plays into this or how. I'm still not sure what he was talking about when it came to bracing. He said to glue a 1" X 2" to each face (assume that means each side of the cabinet). Is this to mount a brace on or this the brace itself? If this is the brace which one gets glued down, the 1" or the 2" (if this is a mount I would think it would be the 2" side). There is much I still don't know, but the cabinet will be swinging into gear very soon (the driver is supposed to ship next week). I will almost surely pick up the baltic birch this weekend and start cutting it to size.

I'm getting ready to order the Art Cleanbox and have a few questions about it, as well as a couple of other things. Sorry for being such a pain, I really am grateful for all your help. 1) If the voltage is low going to the sub, shouldn't I have something going to the other seven speakers in my set-up? 2) When doing the port length does the cleanbox need to be connected? I would think not but this is all new to me and I could easily be wrong on my thinking. 3) Setting the gain level.The pdf file says to set the level control to the best signal strength and clarity, what am I looking for here? You've been a big help Michael, couldn't have done this without you. If you ever have any plans to come to the Kansas City area just let me know and I will have to at the very least fix one heck of a meal for you.

Received the Behringer yesterday but have a bit of a problem here. The Behringer only has TRS or balanced inputs, while all I have coming off the Pioneer or the RSW15 are RCA outputs. I've done some looking on the net, but haven't been able to find some kind of adaptor. Please tell I'm not up the creek with this amp. Okay, I might have found something. It's called a Live Wire Dual RCA-Mini TRS Adapter, is this what I would need. What is the difference between TS and TRS, they both kind of look the same? Now I found this one at PE, RCA Jack To 1/4" Mono Plug Adapter. Rather go with this one if this is what I will need. Am I going in the right direction on these. Sorry for panicking on this, this project just keeps getting bigger and bigger and I sure didn't want to have to turn around and buy a new pre-amp. On a side note, I got the Acoupower 7" port ordered. When I talked to Carlos though, he said the modeling programs were off on the needed length. How do I go about getting it to the right length. I know I need to leave it long and cut it down bit by bit until I get to where I want to be but I have no idea what I am looking for. It is going to be tuned to 15hz with it being down right at 3db at that point. If I am running a set-up disc it should be putting out either 75 or 85 db during set-up (can't remember right off hand what the signal strength is, or maybe I select the volume level. I've always just let the Pioneer set it up). Would I have it run a 15hz signal with a volume level of one of the above (whichever one is right or whatever I pre-select), and then see how much it is down or up and adjust the port length until I was down 3db at 15hz. Anyway thanks for all your help.

I would still want the port to be internal, what I mean by being on top is the port opening would be thru the top of the cabinet with the tube extending towards the bottom instead of the front or side. This really wouldn't be preferrable either (much rather be able to see the ports in front, looks like I am leaning towards the 7" port. Anyone else make them besides Acoupower?), but to me much better than a 3' front or depth. How does one get an accurate measurement of the area the port takes internally? Do you just guestimate it and make the cabinet that much bigger? On the bracing what I am understanding from what you are saying is 2"W X 1"H X cabinet width, with 1 or more going from side 1 to side 3 and 1 or more going from side 2 to side 4.

Thanks guys for your responses on this matter. I'm just going to yank it out from underneath the stairs though (and put it back up against a wall) when I get my sub built.

Should the bracing connect with all four sides? Do you think two would be enough, roughly splitting the cabinet into thirds? Just what is the size and shape of this bracing as compared to the cabinet it will be mounted in? Ports. Running the winisd, it shows these need to be 38" for 2 6's or 32" for a single 8 (I've looked around and can't even find an 8" on the net). Both these put the depth or width of the cabinet at 3' plus, I really don't care for these dimesions (I would really like to bring it in at 39H X 28D X 28W). Can I mount the ports on top? If I can't or it's not preferred it looks like I will have to go with the Acoupower, but at 115.00 that is pretty expensive for a port. On X-Max, is there a formula that will take all the things you said into account so one doesn't build too much of a cabinet for a driver? Thanks again Michael for all your help.

This is what I came up with, looks good to me but then again I am new at this. What do you think? Driver : Exodus Maelstrom-X 18 Vas : 324.0 Qts : 0.36 Fs : 17.70 SPL : 89.00 (this is just a guess, they don't state what it is) -- Number of drivers : 1 Box type : Vented Box size : 434.6 l Tuning frequency : 15.03 Hz Vent : 2 vent(s) 16.22 in length for each 4.00 in round Relative Freq Gain [Hz] [dB] 10.00 -16.50 11.00 -12.91 12.00 -9.68 13.00 -6.95 14.00 -4.89 15.00 -3.56 16.00 -2.87 17.00 -2.57 18.00 -2.47 19.00 -2.45 20.00 -2.46 21.00 -2.47 22.00 -2.47 23.00 -2.46 24.00 -2.43 25.00 -2.40 26.00 -2.35 27.00 -2.31 28.00 -2.25 29.00 -2.20 30.00 -2.14 I still have some questions though, I am sure there will be more to follow. 1) Does this need fill and if so how does one apply it? Is it glued to the walls of the cabinet? From what I've read fill increases the lower end as if it were a bigger cabinet, but I don't know if I want to do that. The models I've run show when the bottom end is raised, that the ranges from maybe 20 to 30hz are lowered which isn't to my liking. 2) Bracing. Is this for a sturdier cabinet, or for driver support, or for both of these things? How many braces should go within a cabinet and where? 3) X-Max. You said to be sure X-Max wasn't gone past. I don't really understand this. I would have thought that the source signal and the power being supplied would make this happen, but what I am getting from what you said is the cabinet size would also factor into this. 4) What kind of plywood would be the best to construct the cabinet? 5) I probably should wait on this question but it's bugging me. When applying the veneer how does one make sure the seam doesn't show where the edges of the cabinet come together. 6) They have some nice vents on Parts Express (looking at the precision port flared port tube kit), but they will have to be cut. What would be the best thing to use to make the evenest cut? How do you get the end piece glued back on securely,do I need to use some kind of wrapping as well as glue? 7) Do I need to put some kind of gasket between the driver and outer cabinet wall where the driver and cabinet join together? Thanks again for all your help, I'm sure I will have more questions later especially as the cabinet is being built. The amp is supposed to be here Tuesday, hope the driver ships on the 9th as they have stated (it would be nice if it was earlier than that).

It is going to be vented. The winisd program wouldn't allow that to happen, would it? The driver is the Maelstrom (which will ship on the 9th) (Xmax is 33) and I went ahead and got the Berhinger EP2500.

I've been running over the vb numbers and the one I came up with in WINISD was 222.5. Are these numbers set in stone? I ask because the program let me adjust the box size and I came up with output I liked even better with a vb of 327.9. At 33hz they are pretty equal but the vb of 222.5 is down 3-4 db for most of the rest (compared to 327) of the way until they meet again at 10hz. The 222.5 graph line is more consistently curved (from 30hz on down) with the 327.9 having less curve at 15hz but becoming more pronounced after that. Can I make this sub with a vb of 327, is it recommended. Thanks.

It's pretty late here, but since you are on here can you look at this for me and tell me where I'm going wrong. It's got to be wrong and is bugging the heck out of me. I've looked around but haven't been able to find someone that actually broke down the forumla. QTS = .36 VAS = 324L VB = 20 * QTS ^ 3.3 * VAS. VB = 20 * (.36 * .36 * .36 * .108) * 324 VB = 20 * .00503855 * 324 VB = 32.65 I just don't see how this could be right. With a little over 28L equaling 1 cubic foot it doesn't leave enough room for the driver. Where am I messing this up? I do have a y-cable but haven't had it hooked up to the sub for a while.

I do have a Pioneer; a VSX53TX (elite) which I'm using as a pre-amp. For amplification I am using a Gemstone Blue Diamond. Speakers include RF-7's, RC-7, RS-7's, D9's, and a RSW15. The sub will be placed by a rear wall behind seating positions. With the wires feeding thru the back of the sub cabinet I presume I will have to seal the two holes where they come thru, if so what would be the best thing to do this. Thanks for all your help Michael.

On the Berhinger EP2500 ; I though this would be mounted insided of the cabinet but I'm not sure how that will happen. I purchased this today (ships on the 25th) and then looked at the photo in more detail tonight. What I noticed was the volume controls and the power on switch are on one side, with the rest on the back side. Am I wrong in thinking that this is mounted in the sub cabinet, or is this going to be external to the cabinet with the driver connections coming thru the back of the cabinet. Thanks again.

First I would like to thank you and ear for your responses. Hopefully you don't get too tired of answering questions, some of which will be totally basic for you. Is there a website I could go to that would break down terms into layman answers. Anyway I have a few more questions for now. 1) VB. The formula I found for the Maelstrom was VB = 20 * QTS ^ 3.3 * VAS. Would this be correct QTS = .36 VAS = 324L VB = 20 * (.36 * .36 * .36 * .108) * 324 VB = 20 * .00503855 * 324 VB = 32.65 2) How do you convert foot size to litres. 3) What is a resonance frequency? What does it mean when it says in free air it peaks at this freq. 4) What is "Q"? 5) What is BL? Thanks again.

Basic question. What does this sign mean ^

RSW15 but for some time I have wanted a sub which could dig down deep (my basement is 25 X 20). I thirsted after the JL F13 but at 3000 was out of my reach. Then I saw the Epic Conquest, but 1600 (plus shipping) is still too much for me. I've never built a sub or any other speakers before ( I have always been good at building things though), but have reached the conclusion this is the route I have to go to get what I want. I've got maybe 800 to spend total on everything, and am not sure what kind of driver or amp I need to get to reach the lower ends I desire. I would like it to be very musical, but outstanding with the movie side of things also (power on the bottom end). Am I looking at 18" drivers or 21"s? What kind of power does the amp need to have? If 18's which drivers would fall into the overall range of building the sub at the specified cost? Which amps fall into this range? Just what goes inside the cabinets? I've looked at some designs on the web, with much more research to do. Could you give me a rough breakdown (or more extensive if you like) of what goes into making a sub, from beginning to end. What are some good websites which goes into these things? I have been to diysubwoofers.org, will be going back again. I could go a little higher on cost, I want a high quality sub (doesn't have to be the best) and am not willing to build something subpar. I want to thank you all ahead of time for your help, couldn't do this without people like you.

First of all my set-up is in the basement, with the stairs for the most part coming down in the middle of the room. The stairs have had the sides (from the edge of the sides of the steps to the floor) walled with sheet rock. Due to space issues I cut an area out big enough to house the sub, placed the sub under the stairs with the front end coming back into the room, and then built a cabinet around the sub keeping 4 inches clearance all the way round the sub. With this type of set-up, what more could I further do to maximize performance. I feel as if I'm losing some of the sound back into the laundry rooom (I also wonder about the lower spl freq's), so I'm thinking some kind of sound proofing mounted around the cabinet but I'm not sure. Do I have enough clearance, what could I do to muffle the sound from escaping the main area, are there any other issues I haven't thought of. Your help is greatly appreciated, I really want what I have to be the best it can be.

Where does one get the cloth surround, and just exactly how is it installed. The foam has long been deteriorated (well actually probably a couple years or so), and needs to be replaced. Also do you have any ideas of how to pop out the center piece on the woofer, my nephew pushed it in years ago and haven't been able to get it back out (or do I need to replace the woofer altogether, had to replace a midrange a few years back). Thanks!

In regards to my original post, I should have listed more of what I use to run the 7's with. I have a Pioneer VSX53TX which I use as a pre-amp, and am powering them with a Gemstone Blue Diamond. My rear speakers are Cerwin Vega D9's (carryover's from the 80's). I guess I should include the room size which is essentially 20 X 25. In response: 1) I'm not saying I don't want low frequency going to the RF7's, I just don't want anything lower than the rated low of 32hz if it's going to damage them over time. I'm not sure what happens when it goes lower than that, is the signal only reduced in volume (at +/-3 db) or is there possible damage that can occur such as if a 20 or 25hz signal came thru at a loud level (a non LFE transmission, if it is possible for a non LFE signal to reach that range). 2) Indy, are you saying that you would run RS7's as large or is it a mistype. They are only rated down to 58hz before dropping off, wouldn't there be information lost below that if set to large or would the RSW15 set to plus with the lowpass crossover set higher than 58hz fill in the missing information. 3) Wouldn't it be better to run the RC7 and the RS7's as small (RF7's as large) with the crossover set to 50hz (as low as the Pioneer goes). The RC7 is rated down to 45hz with the RS7 at 58, wouldn't this setting get everything out of them that they could give as opposed to setting them both as large and starting to lose information (although the sub could pick it up at the right crossover I can still tell if I'm not getting a full range signal from a particular direction) at the above stated frequencies. 4) If everything is set to large, the crossover setting on the pre-amp is rendered useless. Wouldn't I have to then enable the lowpass crossover on the sub, and if so what would be a good setting or would that depend on what I was looking for in sound (more bass or less bass). Right now I have everything set to large except for the RS7's (and regrettably the D9's as they can't run at large with the sides being set to small. no I can't move them as the wires are above a drop ceiling and only cut to just where each speaker has just enough, it would be a lot of work and I already have enough of that), with the the crossover setting on the Pioneer set to 50hz and the lowpass crossover being off on the sub. It seems to me that the option of number 3 above sounds logical (although that's not what I have it set at. I have the RC7 set at large for now, it seems to help with the brightness and the voices aren't so high range), but then again I am far from knowing everything about how all this works and really don't want any damage to the speakers from giving them more than they can handle. Thanks to all, your help and knowledge is appreciated..

to my original post, I should have listed more of what I use to run the 7's with. I have a VSX53TX which I use as a pre-amp, and am powering them with a Gemstone Blue Diamond. My rear speakers are cv D9's (carryover's from the 80's). In response: 1) I'm not saying I don't want low frequency going to the RF7's, I just don't want anything lower than the rated low of 32hz if it's going to damage them over time. I'm not sure what happens when it goes lower than that, is all that happens is the signal is gradually lost or is there possible damage that can occur such as if a 20 or 25hz signal came thru at a loud level (non LFE if that is possible). 2) Indy, are you saying that you would run RS7's as large or is it a mistype. They are only rated down to 58hz before dropping off, wouldn't there be information lost below that if set to large or would the RSW15 set to plus fill in the missing information. 3) Wouldn't it be better to run the RC7 and the RS7's as small (RF7's as large) with the crossover set to 50hz (as low as the Pioneer goes). The RC7 is rated down to 45hz with the RS7 at 58, wouldn't this setting get everything out of them that they could give as opposed to setting them both as large and starting to lose information at the above stated frequencies. 4) If everything is set to large, the crossover setting on the pre-amp is rendered useless. Wouldn't I have to then enable the lowpass crossover on the sub, and if so what would be a good setting or would that depend on what I was looking for in sound (more bass or less bass). Right now I have everything set to large, with the lowpass crossover engaged at a setting of 100hz. It seems to me that the option of number 3 above sounds logical, but then again I am far from knowing everything about how all this works. Thanks to all, your help and knowledge is appreciated..

Normally with music I will run the 7's as large (with RSW-15 set to plus), and with movies I will have them set as small. While watching Chronicles of Riddick I inadvertantly (sp) ran them as large and noticed a huge difference in lower frequencies (have a dvr so was able to compare). What I am wondering is what signals the 7's receive when run as large. Do they receive all possible frequencies, or are the LFE frequencies routed strictly to the sub? It is my hopes the LFE effects are routed to the sub as I don't want them played thru the 7's, so any shedding of light on this matter would be appreciated.

I just bought a dvd player with 5.1 channel outputs, and am wondering if I need digital or analog interconnects (currently have it hooked up with a digital optical out). My receiver's multi-channel in inputs are analog, does this mean the interconnects need to be analog and not digital? Also should the cable's be a single cable, instead of a dual cable (which is what I have my amp currently set up with for now. speaking of the amp should the cables for this be digital or analog) connecting two channels at a time. Cost wise the dual cables are cheaper, but is there any quality being lost by doing this. Sorry if this wasn't worded very well, but it was off the top of my head as I really haven't had the time to let it sift thru my mind. Thanks for your help!