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Zealot125

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Posts posted by Zealot125

  1. 1080i (interlaced fields) and 1080p (progressive frames) are totally different. 1080i is functionally the same as 540p because the horizontal lines of resolution need to be overlapped in a temporal domain, therefore, 1080/2=540 lines of horizontal resolution when it is output. 1080p has 1080 lines of discreet horizontal resoulution and is therefore of twice the quality of 1080i. This is my rudimentary understanding of the concept. Others here will likely be able to present more advanced/more accurate descriptions.

  2. Accelerometers can be miniscule in dimension and mass. There are even piezo-electric film accelerometers that are paper thin. I dont know what Velodyne uses, but I used that example to illustrate how miniscule they can be.

  3. That is quite the frightening monster, and is clearly capable of some MONSTROUS output. On the other hand, it really doesnt go too low. You would probably be ok if you just use it for music, but it might have a tendancy to sound slightly boomy. That and it would be downright sucidal to use that to its full capabilities in a relatively small home theater. If I might ask, how much do they want for it?

  4. TheEar, are you just not reccomending the titanic kits, or the titanic drivers, because a ported DIY Dayton MKII 15" models out really well with and F3 of around 20 hz. The driver seems to be great bang for the buck. Still not too great for pipe organ music, but capable nonetheless.

  5. You might try the Ascendant Audio Aresenal 12"

    In a 5.5 cubic foot enclosure tuned to 22Hz it has an F3 of 19Hz and

    can do about 115dB. It models better than the 15" and 12" Titanic - and

    costs less too.

    You were letting me go on about the Titanic in my other thread without tellimg me that there is a better perfoming alternative that costs less money??? Shame on you! How could you, I am hurt! No, but really, should I consider switching to this different driver?

    PS Sorry for partial thread hijack...

  6. To secure mdf use bull dog grip 200/400 or simular ,To gether and never will part.

    Well, we dicussed this earlier, and actually wood glue is the better alternative to industrial adhesives like this Bulldog stuff.. As well as they affix objects, it is the wood glue's reaction with cellulose (wood) that essentially "fuses" the peices together. Start with 2 peices of MDF, end with 1. If you use adhesive, you still end with 2 peices of mdf, albeit powerfully glued together.

  7. This whole thread is asinine, is anyone here even a freaking audio engineer, THOUGHT SO.

    Furthermore, this is a DIY thread about a project that I would personally enjoy. You are right I am nowhere NEAR to being an audio engineer, but I can sure as hell give it the best of my own humble efforts. If you arent going to be constructive, then what is your goal for these posts?

  8. Wow, um, I didnt really understant where that came from... Are you angry because your enclosure is far less than ideal, or what is the problem. Dr. Whos point is 100% valid. T/S parameters can be measured to a very accurate degree, and are by far the most applicable variables by which to model subwoofer design. How do you presume that klipsch designs their subs, or how wilson designs theirs? - by starting with the cold hard numbers - thats how. There is a reason people use winISD over other programs- it is easy to use, covers all the bases, and does good math.

  9. Guys, this thread has turned out to be a fantastic wealth of knowledge - and some of the most fun reading that I have done in a week! Thanks a million for your dedication to accurate subwoofer construction. Only one little problem. I know we modeled the FR with that parametric EQ at 20 hz with a Q of 2 +3 dB, but the parametric eq on the sub only allows a Q between .1 and 1. So, I changed the Q to 1 and the FR seemed to improve even more. Is there something else I need to change or is this right?

    EDIT with a gain of 4 dB the FR improves even further, and with a 20 x 1.5 inch 25 inch long port, port air velocity is still about 28 m/s.

  10. That all sounds fantastic, but this is my first endeavor into sub building and I want to keep it simple. One of my goals is to learn some woodworking skills as well. Unfortunately, my budget maxes out at about $550-$600, which fits this particular project well. I am pretty set on using this driver with a bas reflex enclosure, but I am also up for suggestions if there is a way to get more bang for my buck.

  11. I looked in the list but still did not see the entry for the dayton subwoofer. I am using the alpha version, should I be using the older one? Also, what is the best way to secure the double layer of MDF together?

    Also, when speaking of the diameter of the flared port, are we talking about the narrow diameter in the middle, or the flared diameter of the ends?

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