TRiv
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Posts posted by TRiv
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Been there...Done that! And that is exactly how my business www.FastSS.com (the short URL for www.LightningSpeedShop.com) moved into the restoration engine parts business 20 years ago.I have seen enough of this crap in the vintage car circles ( especially 60's muscle cars), and to this day it is out of control. I buy used parts to build my cars with, and sell what I don't need, not looking to make big money just get rid of parts I don't need to buy parts I do need. This is done mosly at auto swap meets or specific brand webites/forums. I have many times sold parts (mostly 60's muscle car) for reasonable prices at a swap meet, and later when walking around the meet looking, I'll run into the parts (I know they are) I sold a few hours ago at some awfull inflated price. I have no problem with people making money but this kind of crap totally ruins hobbies.
After running local ads and hitting swap meets to unload my spare parts, after a month I was shocked to see that I had ended up with more parts than I set out to get rid of and had made money in the process by taking trades.
While it is nice that my car collection has appreciated beyond belief, it still makes me angry that the Corvette and Muscle Cars I have loved since high school are now just another commodity for some to coldly trade on for profit with absolutely zero regard for their beauty or heritage.Quit a collection! looked like your site would have pictures of your different cars, really like the 67 BB vettes, 67 Chevelle, and 69 El Camino (375 hp 4 spd, nice)
Several months ago I did win an ebay auction for ok condition 77 Cornwalls with high bid of 427, second highest bidder was 426, 427 won!
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Greg, they are exactly what I am looking for, or anything close. I posted that auction here a few weeks ago in hopes someone here closer to them could pick them up for their project, as the guy would not ship. I thought the cabinets were a good deal at that price, you should have gone a bit more, of course that's no guarantee a win, anyway, you said you found what you were looking for.
Anyone, is $250-$350 per bin in similar condition above (minus horn) a fair price to pay?
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Looking for two Khorn bass bins, preferably empty (no drivers). Do not need to have top sections, matching serial #'s, or great cosmetics, just solid condition (no water damage, smashed wood) acoustically sound bins. Looking to experiment like others here, just don't want to do it with a nice pair of originals. I am in Cleveland Ohio area and close to Forward Air, fed-ex second choice , though will drive 150 miles one way to pick up. Let me know if you have anything ( and how $much ) or leads, thanks!
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I think he's new at this idea of buying for resale and can't imagine this will last long given he's paying market price already. I'm hopeing he figures it out soon, cuz he's targeting our general area, eliminating opportunities for those of us wanting a pair for personal enjoyment.
I don't like to see Heritage leaving the area - especially for mere financial gain. [
]I'd much rather have 'you' Corvette - snatching them up and perhaps divying out your 'sloppy seconds' some day. Though I'm still on the fence about it, I'm banking on the possibility that you don't have some sort of 'hoarding disorder'. LOL [
]I agree and hope your right, maybe my high bid/loss on those beater Khorns will deter him. I have seen enough of this crap in the vintage car circles ( especially 60's muscle cars), and to this day it is out of control. I buy used parts to build my cars with, and sell what I don't need, not looking to make big money just get rid of parts I don't need to buy parts I do need. This is done mosly at auto swap meets or specific brand webites/forums. I have many times sold parts (mostly 60's muscle car) for reasonable prices at a swap meet, and later when walking around the meet looking, I'll run into the parts (I know they are) I sold a few hours ago at some awfull inflated price. I have no problem with people making money but this kind of crap totally ruins hobbies.
No doubt this happens everywhere, I am just hoping this guy doesn't make it impossible to get a set of Khorns in this general area for a reasonable price, looks like he will travel to pick up, and I see he already does the car parts thing I mentioned, though I can't see him making any money on the beater Khorns, the nice ones he picked up for the good price sure, that will make more working capitol to buy more, but the black ones, I don't think so. At least I know where not to buy them from, and who I could again bid against.
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DizRotus, meagain, thanks for the help. I figured $1000-$1150 would have got them, so I bid with a safe measure, guess I was wrong, though actually right, they aren't worth the final price. As a car hobby type, I saw these as diamonds in the rough, bring them home, blast with some shop air, remove ugly grills, wipe down, and wouldn't be too bad. Hook them up, and do the cosmetics later, oh well, there's more!
Think posting for Khorn bass bins wanted on the board is ok? I do have all the drivers, just need the bins and crosovers ( could buy new ). There has to be members here wanting to unload empty cabinets. I am not trying to be cheap as much as I want to experiment, and doing it with nice Khorns doesn't make sense.
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Lost the bid! What a long wait for nothing, I even bid what I thought was too high @ $1377 for these "gems" and went above that @ $1450, final sale @ $1475! hope winner is happy, GRRRRR.
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Don't bid early, for reasons stated above.
What happened, did the rats try to eat their way into these. Love the description. Lots of work but worth saving.
Don't worry too much about the cat and bag, we know you're interested, most of us will be gentlemen and stay clear of the auction.
Have fun, don't bid too much.
Michael
Thanks Mike, and Bill H., will be waiting for final seconds to bid, no need to stir up the frey (a couple of bidders). Fixing them up for me is no problem, just hope they can be a step up from the Cornwalls I have which are modded, cabinets 11" off ground and inverted, with 511b's on top (k55v's)and k77s vertical below the 511's,and above the K33e's really works this way!
I have my own snipping service and it works simple, I bid at closing time with what I am willing to pay for something and what item is probably worth, unless it's something rare and a must have, the next bidder can have it, there is always another one somewhere, besides, paying too much for rather common or available items makes no sense.
This ebay bidding stuff is still a roll of the dice at the end.
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Greg, did you bid and/or win those Khorn bins in Iowa (ebay)a week or so back? just wondering.
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Which means you should be able to get it cheap.
And all the holes in the grill cloth, the dirt and splintered plywood... a lot of work..
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TRiv - Even if you put in your max bid early in an auction - you are merely bidding against yourself really. You're just upping the cost to you in the end. There is ZERO value or gain from bidding early in an auction. Only detriment to your pocketbook. Can you tell me one single good reason to bid now? (you can probably edit your post above to remove the price points).
These khorns are like one of those photos where you play the game of spotting interesting things. There's so much to take in in every millimeter of the photos.
I think the spider egg casings are a nice touch. If anyone spots a dead rat - please post!Points well taken, and acted upon ( I thank you!). Terrible condition, spider webs, eggs, black paint overspray on everything, water damage, mice, snakes, upside down bass bin, yuk!
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Assuming everything works, if you could get them for $1200 or less, that would be fine. DO NOT BID until the final seconds. I recommend using a sniping service.
Of course, you realize that you've alerted the competition to their availability by posting the eBay link in this forum. If you need temporary storage in the Columbus area, I might be able to prevail upon a friend to help out.
Did you check out his other auctions? Electro Voice EV Huge Corner Speaker No Res!
What type of car is your avatar, I keep thinking a Morgan 7?
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I figure anyone interested will find them anyway, though it was probably not a good post to ask what to pay for these ( now that I did! what a dummy), as that could give the game away, so don't let me know what to bid max! I have the ebay game down pretty good though, I like to bid low at first, then do the final snip at end ( it really is a game of chance). Actually I don't think of it as snipping, rather the max I am willing to pay, period. If it goes above my max, I'll wait till the next one comes along. I dont' mind paying for something, but paying way more than something is worth is stupid!
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A bit on the rough side ( don't laugh !), but a project I have been looking for (upgrading from Cornwalls), a pair of black Khorns close enough to pick up (2 hours each way) .
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5869670586
I have watched the prices of nice and not-so nice khorns for sale and have an idea of what to bid, but would like opinions of a fair price to bid up to on these gems (wrecks)
I have no problem fixing these up, and have all drivers if needed to function, so the rough condition does not bother me, ready to bid after seller answers a few questions, comments?
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Thanks to all of you for good input so far.
I have some drawing that apear to be original, but the measures are converted to european (from inch to mm).
I have not started to build yet.
Bass elements will be K33E
Midrage K 55V - K401 horn
Tweeter K77M
All from Bob Crites
If you have the original construction plans for the basshorn and are willing to share, my email adress are erland.solbakken@nmsc.no
If you like to see my costr. drawings, please send me an email.
The plans I have are the Electro Voice KD-2 from 1955 and are 20+ pages. My computer savy is not the greatest, no luck here yet to copy 1 page much less 20. If your construction drawings are official, they are either the same or better than what I have. The EV plans are a bit different, though close to the Klipsch Khorn, a few details at least that I can see: EV woofer slot is 6"x13" vs Klipsch 3"x13"(needed for K33E) , EV woofer mounts from the front of cabinet rather than side, EV cabinet is narrower than Klipsh about 3" each side (front panel is "clipped") so compression chamber volume is a bit smaller, EV panel in front of woofer is flat, Klipsh has two angle block ( to prevent 180 degree reflection?), there could be other differences, you may be better off with what you have.
I am still going to keep looking for empty factory bass bins, they are around, I thing I have to many project "irons in the fire" right now to start, if nothing shows up, will go the build path.
511B's on the Cornwalls here, K600's pluging the holes (better that way)
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I am building a pair of Khorns.
Why not buy originals, you may ask....Because I want the sound but with better looking woodwork. Since I have the tools and the skills, I tought it would be an interesting and challenging project for the winter.
Original parts are being used, so we are not talking about a clone here, more like a Khorn "signature edition".
Same here, same reasons, the factory Khorns look nice, but the appearance really is little more than a 31x38 wood panel with a little moulding, again, nice, but so much more could be done. I probably already know the answer to this, but why does'nt Klipsch sell an unfinished Khorn bass bin (like EV used to), they have the patent, the production line, and I am sure they could sell them at a price (not cheap, but still worth it) that they could make a profit?
Unsure of best crossover also, parts using here, K33E's,K55V's,Altec 511 horns, K77's, with Cornwall for center using same drivers and stock type B crossover.
Erland, are you using KD-2 (Khorn) plans or other? I have original print KD-2 plans and notice a few differences to the Klipsch and EV factory bins, I have a few questions on those if you or anyone else may know.
Have'nt started to build yet, have been looking for ok condition used bass bins first, then build cosmetic shells similar to what EV did with the Georgian, or just modify the bins with fancier woodwork. The shell idea is good in that the appearance can be changed anytime to better match existing room furniture and/or change in preference without actually changing the bass bin at all. Going to give it another month or two for used bins search, if no luck, then going to start, would be interested to see how you do
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BTW thanks TRiv
Good luck in auction, looks as if it could be a good deal for solid, functional bass bins. I'm a form follows function type, so I would get them performing first, then do the cosmetics. looks like you would be experimenting with the set up first anyway, the 511 and driver will make it straight forward, I am sure you have seen some of the discussions on, and availability of crossovers here. These bass bins look ( I think seller mentioned) that front is Formica covered, it would have to be removed and re -veneered, and the side grills would have to be replaced. While the factory finishes on the K horns are nice, these are a good candidate for really making them look like finer furniture to personal taste, of course you could leave them original as is and do what Electro Voice did to the Georgian ( their K horn) and build a finished cabinet that goes around and over the bass bin and mid-high horns, keeps them more original for resale if needed, and allows for custom looks which can be changed.
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Early vint. classic Klipschorn Corner speakers project
The bass bins are probably fine and the woofers appear to be OK. A "project" they would be.
Thanks for fixing post, cut and paste didn't work....must have done something wrong.
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Here is the kind of project I am looking for, but as usual half the country away and no shipping, maybe someone here may be closer and interested
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5863142577&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
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[quote user
" . . . sometimes we lose (even by a dollar!) . . . "
It's unlikely you ever lost by "a dollar." All you know is that the winner's maximum bid (what it was worth to him/her) was greater than your maximum bid. The other bidders' max could have been coincidentally $1 higher than yours, but it's for more likely that it was some unknown amount greater than your maximum bid.
Probably true, though I have been the bogus sniper as well and I know I won by a dollar! did with a pair of 77 Cornwalls, just lucky I think, did so also with several other auctions also . Good thing is if you don't win one item, another will come along, except for some really rare item, maybe. Overall, you can get what your looking for, just may take some time. Not anyones fault, well maybe ( name shipping co.) that most sellers will not ship larger speakers too often, due to risk of damage, bidding is almost impossible because of no shipping, and 500+ miles is a bit too much to pick up. Seems like most Klipsch speaker auctions are in California, Texas, and Florida, rare here in Ohio
Gary, good "luck "with the Cornwall auction!
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It NEVER makes sense to bid on eBay before the final seconds, with or without the aid of a sniping service. Any bid before the closing seconds only drives up the price, which benefits sellers but not potential buyers. The format used by eBay is more like a silent auction, rather than a real-time auction.
It could be (and has been) argued that bid sniping is unfair, especially to sellers; I disagree. Seller's, who voluntarily select eBay as the vehicle to sell their items, have the right to set reserves, below which the items will not be sold. Every bidder (including your friend) has the right to place bids that indicate what the items are worth to her/him. I have not yet heard a persuasive argument in favor of placing bids prior to the closing seconds of the "auction."
I am not going to say sniping is fair or unfair, but it is the most disappointing aspect of Ebay. Having been sniped, and also the sniper, it is sometimes fun but mostly an irritating way to buy something, have lost items by a few dollors, and won by a few dollars, wait all week to the last seconds and lose because you guessed wrong at somethings value,especially by a dollar! Not that I want to pay too much for something either, but when you really are set to buy and lose by bad luck rather than willing to pay to get it. Oh well, sometimes we can get a good deal on Ebay (usually though the going price or higher) sometimes we lose (even by a dollar!) just the way it is, good place to find anything though. Sometimes wish the heck with the snipping, it would be great to have a real time auction, highest bidder wins (going once, going twice, SOLD!), now that's fair in an auction.
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"Dead Skunk in the middle of the Road" mid 70's artist ?
" Disco Duck" mid 70's artist? yuk!
" Bird is a Word" Classic
Anything by DEVO or Wendy and the Plasmatics (early eighties)
" The Streak" mid 70's another yuk!
" Curly Shuffle" ( about Three stooges) early eightes
"Cheech and Chong Big Bambu " late 70's
Frankie Yankovic-- now that is some good fun music!
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Question, I would like to build Classic cabinets and transfer 1977 Cornwall components (cabinets are in fair cond. parts like new), all stock except for 511B horn, any problem here? The Khorn using the K33E woofer uses 3"x 13" slit on compression chamber, would this be used in the Classic design (opposed to the 6"x13"). Would also use the Cornwall type B crossover, then upgrade to type AA crossover, thoughts?
Slow down.
The Classic bass horn is only good to around 350Hz. I measured it once, but I don't remember the exact number. That information is with my old notes. I also believe that the University crossover is also at 350Hz. The Cornwall midrange horn won't go that low. I think the Cornwall had a 700 Hz. crossover point. The Corbreflex midrange horn in the Classic is a 250Hz. horn.
Slowng down to a halt here, I am going to go back to other plans of mods to Corns, as of now the cabinets are inverted and raised 11" from ground with k55v/511B on top, and k77 verticle between 511 and k33e, really like they way they sound like this, imaging (height) of voices much more stage, performance straight in front, just dropped a bit in bass due to port/k33e being 36+ inches off floor. Was thinking of adding a single K horn/EV106 bass bin crossed about 200hz with separate amp to augment bass lost and go a bit lower, and/or get second bass bin later and transfer Corn componets/511's to them and type A crossovers.
Since the forum search feature doesn't work as well as before, I can't find many earlier posts, are you the one with K horns and the 311-90 Altecs with tweeter below them? If so was wondering how well you like the false corner set ups you used ( I think that is what I remember), having both K horn cabinets facing forward? I would have to use false walls in my situation, though I had one thought if using just one with the CW's, laying Khorn bin on side (vertical) and use floor and back wall as the corner, in between the CW's. I need to add a drawing here to show this but, with the Khorn bin as above, I would build what essentially would look like a 38" wide desk using appro 28"x28" side panels, and a top and front panel 38" wide x approx. 20" deep that would form a 90 degree peak over the front 38x31 panel of the khorn. The sides would be for function and peak would be for a furniture look, the Khorn bin should function the same just using different orientation. I do wonder if a peak (like LaScala) in the center of the Khorn would have any acoustical benefit, it sure would in aerodynamics, actually a must in that flow direction. The false corners of course would be the next option.
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Could it be to keep the horn cabinets to a more WAF acceptable size? I have been following several of the posts on the University Classic, and after loosing ebay auction last night for 1954 Khorn bass bin ($285 + $140 shipping) then reading this post, the Classic cabinet looks like a better alternative. Have EV KD-2 plans and was going to go that route but considering Classic design. Question, I would like to build Classic cabinets and transfer 1977 Cornwall components (cabinets are in fair cond. parts like new), all stock except for 511B horn, any problem here? The Khorn using the K33E woofer uses 3"x 13" slit on compression chamber, would this be used in the Classic design (opposed to the 6"x13"). Would also use the Cornwall type B crossover, then upgrade to type AA crossover, thoughts?
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The Classic came after the Dean, if the Dean is what mine is called. My plans call it the Classic, but I'll call it the Dean here. I think the Classic was a compromise in sound for an easier build.
I was also intrigued with the Deans exterior shape. The 45 degree rear clipped corners make it easy to push into a room corner like the Klipschorn. This takes up a lot less floor space. The bass horn is wider then the Klipschorn allowing one to use a much larger midrange horn. A 200 to 250Hz horn is also very deep,( front to back). The rear of the horn and driver can hang over the back of the cabinet into the room corner.
Q-Man,
The Dean was erroneously called the Classic in Abraham Cohen's book. Thanks again for the plans by the way. It is not a wall type as the book calls it but a "cornerless corner horn".
Recieved same copy of Cohen book this weekend, some real good stuff......
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Looking for Khorn bass bins
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I am actually hoping to find factory built bins, though would like to see what you have to offer. If you can't post pics please email, thanks.