BiggerIsBetter
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Posts posted by BiggerIsBetter
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Yep, sounds about right.....around 1 CD.
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I have a very nice Audible Illusion L-1 (i.e. headphone amp in place of the phono preamp) that I plan on selling (around $650). I have not used it with my cornwalls, but the reviews speak for themselves. For my system, given that I use a tube DAC with a high voltage output, I decided a passive preamp was better than any active preamp.
I don't disagree with what was said above about the 6DJ8 tube, though I wonder how much of that bias is base on the famous amperex 6dj8s (i.e. bugle boys, gold pin, A frame ,D getter, etc., etc.) which sound very sterile and "hi fi" to me. Even with other tubes, the AI is a very accurate preamp. If you want to little tube smoothness, but to retain a large part of strengths of SS, it may a good pre for you. Romantic it is not.
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I've seen many post that Corns and not sensitive to room placement. I would disagree, some minor movement sand/or changes in toe in can make a very big difference. I would not recommend just sticking them in a corner and taking what you get and using an EQ to mask it.
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If you are refering to the musical fidelity, I would not recommend using it uless you have an inexpensive CD player and SS preamp and needs to tubes in the chain. If you have a good CD output stage and/or a tube preamp it is redundant and unecessary and will likey detract more than it would add.
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"Could Klipsch be talked into testing the polar response for us folks? Ask Roy to do it?"
How would one go about asking a company to measure a competing product when the results will not likely be flatering....all while the same product is being advertised on the said company's own web site?
What a great company, and site, to allow this type of "openess."
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Given that the HF cap and Inductor changes are after the AT, I will assume that the same changes/values also apply to the type B.
Can't wait to hear these changes, other than the lack of HF extension and problems in the mid/HF xover region I am very happy with my corn mutts....
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I think Bob's measurements are kind by using the 77M, the 77V drops like a rock even earlier at around 12K.....unless I have a bad one or have heard wrong....
What value inductor do you need to roll off the mid around 4.5K?
I have the 51 mid and it goes nuts at 5-6K, up nearly 9DB, after being down around 4dB at 4K and very flat below that
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From memory, no I think it only has 2 inputs. The price is fair, but a bit high. it should have more than enough power. I really liked the A400X, which is a LOT more powerful and sounded better also. You should be able to get a A400X for not much more. I really didn't like the TFMs as much, less Carver sounding (Bob was on the way out). I think the "smoother" older carvers will sound better with the corns than the newer ones (i.e. TFMs)
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There pretty good, better for audio than HT IMO. The driver alone used to sell for around $150 and the 3cuft sealed box is the proper implementation. It is a very populat DIY woofer and you should be able to find a lot of info on it, just google NHT 1259. You will need some real power for them, a least 200 I would say
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I know I have seen some recent updates, and initial impressions, but I can seem to find any info via search, etc.
Was I just dreaming, or is a better tweeter on the way? I am having fits with the HF from my Corns (huge peak from 5-8ish and then south hard around 12K) and would love to have another options before getting too crazy....
I know Bob is not one to blow his own horn, but any updates or initial info would be great. Accepting pre-orders??
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Anyone have other expereinces with a 2 way, JBL 2426, 2445/6, BMS H4552ND, seleniun, etc, with a 400-600 xover point? Any realistic options that don't require a lot of boost to keep the top end relatively flat? Looking for a next project.....
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I would expect them to sound great. They look ike the same woofer he has been using for years. The platinum audio trios I have use 2 per side, with a 1.5 way crossover. With around 200watts in a small to mid size room they can move enough air to sound very good. At lower volumes, the life is sucked out of the sounds.....I'll keep the clunky old cornwalls 15s.....
Instead of asking IF it can be done, the better question might be WHY?????
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It must be a room thing, and your lucky. Mine drop like a brick around 70 in my room. I would play around with room positioning first. A small move might make a big difference
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They certainly can. I had been a big fan of Phil Jones designs and have several of the Platinum audio speaker, which go lower with their 5 inch woofer than my Corns do.
Still, given the tradeoffs involved, I'll take the large woofer please.
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Not including all of the homemade stuff in college, some strange combos but I always had the loudest room, except for the guy that had LaScalas with a 200watt amp in a 10x10 dorm room......
1990 - Ohm Walsh FRS15 (rear speakers in HT setup)
1991 - Paradigm 3Se (in bedroom)
1992 - Bertagni (sp?) (largest model and a smaller one, don't recall numbers) (sold)
1994 - BG RD75 Ribbons, home implemented baffle with 4 NHT1259 woofers (sold)
1997 - Platinum Audio trios (sitting around)
2000 - Platinum audio quattros (thought they would be better than the trios, not so...sold)
2001 - Pioneer Elite fronts and center (HT system)
2003 - Magnepan MMG (In closet)
2004 - Platinum audio solo (in closet)
2005 - Cornwalls (rule the rooste)
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I have tried a lot of different 6DJ8. I would say anything but the Amperex, PQ, gold pin, D getter, A-frame, BB, blah, blah, blah. When you do actually get a pair that is ot noisey or gassing they sound horrible to me. I can't believe all of the hype they get. I've tossed over 20 of them. Granted most all were from ebay, but they all tested fine and then with south (taking one of my $16K amps with it once) in no time....and that's in severel different types of gear.
I HATE THOSE TUBE.
OK, so I went over the edge a bit, maybe that will help offset all that false praise they get.
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I would certainly llike to check that out. Can you provide a link, I am not smart enough to find it in your profile. Someday I would like to put my corns on a website, but 70-12K, +/- 3dB does not sound near as good....
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I had the carver a long ttime ago. I sounded fine, a little less of the "carver sound" than some of the older amps. It was NOT very powerful, even for it's rated wattage but would assume it would be fine if you are going to use it with horns. I would expect that they would go pretty cheap therse days (around $100)
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When you use different amps, with different input sensitivity, is there an issue matching levels?
am not talking about just matching them for one volume but to maintain that balance as the volume goes up and down.
Example, match all driver volumes at 80db with volume controls on electronic crossover. Will this balance be maintained at lowered and higher volumes (i.e. does the amp sensitivity mess this up) when the master volume is adjsuted?
I would love to triamp at some point and wonder if there is complete flexibility in the amps used or whether some level of amp matching is required.
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Ignoring the ratios of the AT for a moment, which is not correct I know, and just assuming the caps are in series at their full values, my math has the crossover point to the tweeter being lowered by almost 1000hz with the change to the mid cap. I know that "cross" over is a loss term when we are talking 1st orders with these drivers, but I did hear and measure (at the listening position) a difference that is consistent with this math.
A 1.5uF for the tweeter should maintain about the same crossover point as with the stock B. Does anyone elses math provide a different answer?
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Much of the 5-10 db bump of the top was there already. I believe that it was just made worse by changing the mid cap, which added more enery around 4-6K . What ever ratio of the mid cap you consider (i.e. the AT), how can a 7+2 not be a lower crossover point to the tweeter than a 4+2?
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Yep, I definitely want to go to a bandpass on the mid at some point soon. In the immediate term I am concerned that the change of the mid cap from 4-7 has significantly lower the high crossover point. Although toasting the tweeter would give me a good excuse to ditch those dogs, it has made the 4-10K boost a lot worse (up 5-10 db through that region) and it sounds it with the "wrong" music.
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Did you change the mid cap value on your B's to account for the 400 horn? If so, what value did you use?
I went with 7 for the mid and 2 on top as recommended. This resulted in a boost in the crossover region (5-7K), which further exacerbated the already bright highs. From simple math, it seems that the change to the mid cap has lowered to xover point to the highs, which seems to support what I measure and hear.
I wonder if a 1.5 or even 1 for the high cap is the way to go for the cornscala. I agree that the top is complex in that it is not very flat (for very long at least) so you either deal with a hump around the crossover region or a very early roll off.
Great comparison. It is just about time to build some ALKs....
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You definitely need a good output stage, which would typically not exist in a cheap CD player. But you absolutely do not HAVE to have an active preamp. It is certainly not for everyone, but don't belive the old, no dynamics, blah, blah, blah rap on passives.
I had a great preamp, audible illusions L-1 and with the correct setup the passive absolutely smokes it, like a vale completely lifted from the music.
I use a sonic frontiers DAC with a tube output stage (a healthy 5 volts) balanced into a carver lightstar passive (used are $500 these days) into audio research mono blocks.
I agree it may be semantics about what you call a "pre-amp" but it is absolutely not true that you must have an active preamp and that a passive preamp cannot sound great.
Going to look at Cornwall's tomorrow
in 2-Channel Home Audio
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What year?
They are around 95lbs each and have some fairly sharp edges. Bring some good furntiure pads to protect the speakers and your car...
Make sure the dust caps are intact and the woofer move in and out freely, i.e. without grinding...
I would bring a cordless screw driver (phillips head) and take of the backs real quick and look to see if some goofball (i.e. like us) has been messing around in there....