Citizen_Insane

If you can't find a sub to source, would you consider selling the amp (as long as it still works)? Shoot me an email: tanakakai[at]gmail[dot]com

Do you have a reciever or amplifier with rear outputs? Or does your dvd-player have rear outputs? If you do you can just convert the RCA jack to 1/8" miniplug and just plug them right into your system. If you only have front channel output then there isn't anything you can do.

Nope, my amp is still dead. I've already replaced R12 and R26, didn't help. I'm going to replace the diode today and see if that'll work. I'm just super pissed that Klipsch made such a huge mistake with those resistors. My board has burn marks all over next to my R12. Its really sad to that they didn't offer a recall on the amplifier units because I can't see how they would make it through testing without noticing that the resister were getting WAY too hot. My experiences with this system have made me not want to give Klipsch my business any more even though they make bad-*** sound equiptment. What good is sound quality you can't trust?

I already tried that. I have the original diode pulled from the board and directly soldered to the resistor on one side and whatever it attches to on the other. I just got my diodes this weekend but haven't had a chance to install them yet. I'll do that and see if it fixes the problem.

My broke after 4-years.

I too am really dissapointed that Klipsch is so unwilling to help. It is rediculous that a set of speakers will almost definitely go bad in 4 years. Thats B.S. No electronic device should go bad that quickly. Sure it only has a 1 yr warenty, but for the love of god *PLEASE POST SCHEMATICS/ REPAIR MANUAL*. Seriously, what do you have to lose Klipsch? You've discontinued the speakers anyway and you don't offer support. The least you could do is give us tech savy people some way to fix our own problems. I'm going to order a 1n47 from digikey and replace it (even though I tested the one in my amp and it was fine). We'll see if that works. I sure hope it does....

I second this. I need schematics of the amplifier so that I can try to fix it. Also, if anyone has any info on what to check besides R12/R26 that would be greatly appreciated. I replaced both and checked the Z1 diode and my amp is still broken. Any idea where to start with an osciloscope?

bump, cuz I need help. If a mod could swing by, or anyone else more familiar with the electronics of this system, that'd be great. Thanks.

Are you going to help or just ***** my thread?

I replaced the fuse today and it didn't help. I just want to reiterate that I have power to the amp, I'm just not getting anything out. When I plug in the head unit the light does not go on (not a blown LED, I checked). I also took apart the head unit competely and found it to be in what appeared to be perfect condition. There is no head unit fuse like some were suggesting on the site. What I've done: Replaced R12 and R26 Checked Diode next to R12, was fine Rewired arround burned spots on PCB board, no result Checked head unit - appears to be fine I'm running out of ideas and I really don't want to spend $50 to have someone else fix it. I do have access to an oscilloscope through school...is that where I should go next?

doh! its always the most obvious things we overlook... What are the specs on the fuse?

bump - help?

So I replaced R12 and R26 with 680 and 56k ohm 2w resistors and the LED on my control unit still won't go on. There was some pretty bad burning arround R12 but I double checked the connections arround it (and the Zener Diode) and they all seemed fine. I even custom wired the burned section thinking that it could be the PCB that was damaged. I can hear the unit power on and I can feel R12 and R26 both get REALLY hot. So hot that I can't touch them for more than a second without burning myself. Any ideas where to trouble shoot from here? Thanks. -Kai

Well, I googled that number and didn't come up with anything useful. Neither Mouser nor Digikey had anything about such a diode. Any other ideas?

Bump b/c I really need the info, thanks.

My promedia 4.1 setup died. I replaced the R12 (680 ohm, 2W) and R26 (47k ohm, 2W) and it still doesn't work. The burn marks by the R12 resistor extend to the diode labled Z1 next to it. I have a feeling the diode is dead so I was wondering if anyone could point me in the directions of the specs to replace it. also, does anyone have a schematic with info on components or anything that they have access to? Thanks!