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Personal Music Systems

Talk about our KMC Music Systems, Portable Systems, Computer Speakers and legacy iPod speakers here.


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  • Recent Posts

    • Back in 2000, I was living in Tulsa, OK and found a 1993 Mustang Cobra that was in Seattle, WA that I wanted really bad.  I snagged a one way flight, met the guy at the airport, signed over the bill of sale, title, etc., and then took off on an almost 2,200 mile drive back which took me about 3 days.  I remember having AAA (remember them?) make me a map (remember those??) to navigate a nice drive back that would  take me through Yellowstone National Park.  But, I had to detour from that as there was a huge blizzard which shut that part off and I had to divert to Salt Lake City and cut across, still going through a blizzard.  Still a fun trip overall in the infancy days of cell phones and poor service plus minimal GPS devices.   Not sure why had to tell that but your mileage comment reminded me of the drive I once took...alone.  ha
    • If you ever need some 1099 effort with your backups- shoot me a message. I recently pivoted to the security side of the house, but I've got about 7+ years with Veeam and 2-3 years with Zerto as a backup admin in vmware and hyper-v environments, managing about 2000 endpoints.
    • For those of us who have network racks in our house, for sure.    (which I do)   Great units.  We use eight of the 12 bay RS2418+ for city storage; they are very solid units.  We had 3 big Seagate units and they all ultimately failed in a short time.  We darn near have a petabyte of total storage and backup at this point.   GLWS
    • Hey Cappy - I wanted to keep this particular design simple. It can technically drive some grid current, but not much. My intention is to get DIY'ers to build and gain experience (if new in the hobby) to build a SE amp. A lot of people can build from a schematic and PCB vs a schematic & point-to-point wiring.    No doubt there are alternate circuits that can be used here, but I am already slightly larger than the orignal Get*SET*Go PCB and I did not want to design a "hybrid circuit".    I know you prefer to drive grids positive for the headroom, but awhile back you did a poll on how much power we actually use when listening, I believe your results surprised a lot of poeple and the power used was quite low in most circumstances. If this is the case, then for a lot of tubes used with this driver circuit, we should have plenty of power without going to A2. I love A2, but this driver PCB was not designed with that in mind this time around.       
    • That’s why I keep recommending to the good folks of this forum, to open a Discogs account and you have a free online catalog of your Record and CD collection  After entering your collection you can have an spreadsheet list emailed to you and print a hard copy if you prefer  And of course everything is also online 
    • A sensible post. I feel the same. There are a lot of different ways to enjoy recordings.
    • Come to Lynchburg. I'll convince ya...😁
    • I agree with you on all points. But I still enjoy my Stirling Broadcast LS 3/6 and LS 3/5 V2 for other reasons besides my old LaScala and the Underground Jubilees. I find that the richness of tone and naturalness of timbre for acoustic instruments like a classical guitar or string quartet is very good with these British BBC designs. Even a piano sounds very natural and with attack. But it is and remains (only) a psychoacoustic imagination. They are not more than imagined attacks, perhaps because the stop of the tones also works quite well. That's all I demand from these speakers. Never would they match the dynamics and stage size of the real sound event, as horns achieve this much better. But they have a meaning for me. It is just something different. I would also never think that the very large and very expensive cone and dome designs which use many drivers, such as those from Wilson, KEF, B&W or others (did someone say "Aspen"?🙃) can ever even come close to matching the "natural dynamics and power" of good horns. No, my personal experience is that big loud cone designs always tend to sound too much "electrical" and not natural. Cone designs like this BBC style speakers are no more to me than a good old tube kitchen radio used to be. A cozy fatigue-free nice sound that reminds me of the original only at moderate volume levels.
    • My recipe is a ground bus too. It's something I've done for 20 years and always yields excellent results. I use the solid copper ground conductor (or strip the black/white conductor) from a length of 14/2 household wiring for my ground bus and route this through the amp. One end terminates at the power supply capacitors, the other end at the RCA inputs.   I always ensure my RCA's are isolated/insulated and do not ground to the chassis when mounted. The RCA's are connected to the ground bus at one end. I also connect the chassis (earth) ground to the RCA end of the ground bus through the below circuit to keep the signal ground and earth ground paths separate. The essentially turns your metal chassis into a big shield to keep EMI/RFI out of your circuit, which is why I like a full metal chassis.    The ground bus is connected to the amp circuitry as the Captain said; power supply caps at one end (since this end of the bus has the most ripple) then subsequently less "ripple sections" attached to the bus toward the RCA end of the bus.    An X or Y safety cap can be used or a mylar one as well. I came across a bunch of X caps for free and I use them. 
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