Ptron

Well, I handed myself a nice little setback. I go to work on this thing for the first time in a few days, plug it in, and promptly explode a TL082 on one of the amplifier boards. Only then did I noticed that I had left the power suplly unhooked, both the +-34 cable and the big +- leads from the 610036. something must have been touching something, otherwise how do you blow something up on a board that's got no power to it? I plugged the big leads back up in to make sure they wouldn't touch anything, left the 34 off, plugged it back in...bzzzpop. I blew up the same TL082s on at least two other amp boards (the remaining two may be gone without visible signs). I now have a short to ground on both the + and - 15V rails, somewhere on the amp cards to figure out. Whether this short is the cause or a result of my mishap I don't know.

That certainly jives with my two parallel 10ohms. Any chance at all that that resistor in the picture was a 10ohm? The first 2 bands look brown and black to me, but that could just be how they come out in the photo.

Ah. certainly. Good call.

We really need to get somebody with good R27 to tell us what it is. LITTLE HELP, PEOPLE! You may also have a short on that board (I did) but I still say 600ohms is way high. Any current that those regulators draw goes through R27. If those regulator draws more than 20mA, then more than (20mA) x (600ohms) = 12V is dropped across that resistor! That leaves less than 20V feeding the input of first regulator, whos output is supposed to be 20V.

I'm pretty sure those aren't diodes. I'm not positve what they are but I think they are some sort of fusesable links. None of them have any markings that I can see.

Does the whole thing work now? If you get it working, I might ask you to return the favor by measuring a couple voltages for me. Good luck!

my bad. 10 ohms is Brown Black Black in the 4 band system ( 5% and 10% tolerence, carbon comp and carbon film) and Brown Black Black Gold in the 5 band system ( 1% and 2% tolerence, Metal film). Yours looks like neither. It looks like 10k (Brown Black Orange) but that just can't be right as it would drop significant voltage when the +or- 32V supplys draw current. Sorry I forgot to try to find the originals to see why I thought they were 10 ohms

Ah! Those are are alomost certainly discolored. (AFIK black is never used as the first band and 6K would be Blue Black Red) In fact your picture looks something like my original (assumed) 10 ohm ones Brown Black Gold, just discolored from overheating. It is pretty apparent though that the third "Gold" band on yours doesn't look anything like the gold tolerence band. Maybe it totally burned off or maybe it is something else. I'll see if I can find the original one when I get home and see why I decided it was 10ohms. If you'll scroll down, you'll find a thread I started, asking for the value of R27. Nobody ever responded to it Mine looked ok too (except for the discoloration). Just glad to be getting responese from someone on this board

Actually, it's two 10ohm resistors in parallel on mine. This seems to be a modification on Klipsch's or Bash's part as they wouldn't have designed the layout that way. Any chance you're not reading that 6k right due to discoloration? The +&- 32V is to mains/speaker board. I get 56V coming out of the 640014 going to the 610036 I'll send you that schematic as soon as I can

o.k. so first off, I was wrong about getting 56V out of the 640014. I get zero. I was measuring between the - in and the + out for convenience. Turns out the there is a direct conection between the +in and +out. It's the - that's regulated. Guess that explains no sound. The 5 wire ribbon cable on mine is -32 -32 0 +32 +32 Pin 14 of the 15pin Bash "chip" or "white board" feeds the gates of the two parallel power regulating mosfets on the 610036 rev 5 board. This pin is -56V. -56 on source and -56 on gates = mosfets off = 0v output

I hope this helps. I've got a v.2-400 not a 4.1 so I'm not sure if R27 is the same. It certainly wasn't 6k. The board is the 640014 rev 6. On mine R27 is TWO 10ohm resistors in parallel, one on each side of the board. Sounds a little strange but it looks stock. They appear to be in series with either the + or - 30some volt supply to the three voltage regulators on the same card as the mains rectifier and speaker jacks. It's been about a month since I traced this out so I'm not positive which one. These resistors were open on mine too. I replaced them and they burned up again instantly. It turned out that one of the 15v regulators was shorting to the backplate via the heatsink clip. the pod is supplied by these regulators so if your R27 is open that explains your lack of 15v on the DIN. As far as the what the output of the power supply should be please see this thread. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/849925.aspx I've drawn up a very rough schem of the power supply (it's missing a lot of values and reference #s(because you can't se a lot of them under the components)) It probably has a few mistakes too. I could scan and send it to you. or anyone else for that matter. especially if I could get some working power supply voltages in return. Christ, I'm OCD about this stuff. Next I'm going to clean my carpet with a pair of tweezers.

Oh. I now see in another thread that yours has now died alltogether. Nevermind.

Sounds like a blown speaker to me. Try each speaker individually. If you find a bad one, try it with a couple different speaker outs.

Sorry, didn't notice this before. I'm also noticing that you have a 4.1 and I have a v.2-400. Hopefully they're close enough that the following applies: On mine, the voltage that supplies the pre-amp (and thus the LED) comes from one of the 3 voltage regulators on the same board that the speaker jacks are connected to. I don't recall which one. I'll look as soon as I get a chance. The voltage that supplies the regulators comes from the 5wire ribbon cable that connects to the 640014. Again, I can tell you what voltages you should see there when I get a chance to check.

Well, here's my experience, if it helps. My PS was completely dead. After replacing several fried components, I get 56V in and out of the 610036 board. However, I still get no sound. If I understand correctly, the idea of the BASH board is to continually adjust the voltage so at any instant it's only a couple volts greater than what the power amps need. If so then your 2V with no signal sounds more correct than my 56V, but who knows? Personally, I've about had it with this thing. I'm a reasonably experienced tech, but without any service information or a working unit to compare it to it's about time to give up.