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Posts posted by db101

  1. It converts speaker load impedence, for instance say you have a 4 ohm speaker, you put the Zero between your amp and speaker and this will let the amp see either an 8 or 16 ohm load. This is especially important with OTL amps because they work best with high imp. speakers. I've never used them but from what I've read there isn't any degradation in sound quality with them installed.

    Music Reference is now designing an OTL amp that will have Zero's built into the amp.

  2. Excuse me for going a bit off topic but it was the price of the WE300B that convinced me to go with 2A3 mono's instead of 300B mono's, also the fact that most people prefer the sound of 2A3's over 300B's. I knew that if I went with 300B's it wouldn't be long and I would just have to try the Western Electrics, IMHO the price the WE's are going for is insane.

  3. Sorry to hear it didn't work out for you, but keep your eyes open as I may be selling my 77 Cornies later this year. I've been wanting to try a coax speaker, namely the Altec 604 or the PAudio 15", just can't justify the cost at this time for what may or may not be an improvement in sound quality.

  4. I contacted that seller outside of Rapid City way back in Oct. when he had them listed on Craig's List, took him awhile to respond to my email but when he did he said he was willing to meet me in Gillette to complete the transaction, but then I never heard another word from him and he never responded to my email, I figured he sold them, looks like he/she just can't make up thier minds.

  5. Upconverting=Video


    Looks to me like your new DVD player will upconvert a standard signal all the way to 1080p if your TV can handle it, but you need a HDMI switchbox such as the one oppodigital.com sells for not much coin, also appears it will upsample the audio up to 192k and you should be ok with this using the RCA outputs on the DVD player, but

    you need to set the audio output on the machine to two channel if sending the signal to an older stereo reciever.

  6. I've never had the opportunity to listen to a Django and although I've read they are nice, $1200 used seems a little on the high side to me.

    I'm currently using a Promitheus Audio Ref. 4 TVC ($680 new) and like it very much, they also make a TVC with C core tranny's with seperate ebony

    enclosures for each channel for around $1380 which is said to be quite a bit better.

  7. Perhaps someone can tell me if this apt-50 driver with adaptor will work on the tweets of my 77 Cornwalls?

    It seems that sometimes I'm missing a bit of upper end extension but not sure if it's the tweeter or the limited bandwidth of my 2A3 mono's.

    Thanks, Greg

  8. In my opinion there is nothing wrong with running a SS preamp into a tube amp, in fact the lower output impedence of a SS pre would match up better with a tube amp then the other way around, before I recently took possesion of a Ref. 4 TVC I ran an Adcom GFP-750 preamp into two different tube amps with very good results.

    The best guitar tone I ever had was back in the 70's when I ran a Goldtop Les Paul Deluxe into a Marshall Super Lead Plexi, but man was it loud. I'm not convinced a guitar amp would make a good HI-FI amp but would sure like to hear it for myself.

  9. The tube vs. SS debate will go on forever, I'm tried both on various speakers and usually to my ears tubes win out, except on low efficiency speakers that need a lot of current to get the woofers pumping. To get the best of both worlds you could go to a digital amp from companies like Nuforce or Red Wine which are said to sound tube like but also have the bass slam of SS, these co. also make integrated amps, look for used to stay within your budget. Another option is to go DIY, it really isn't that hard to build a tube amp from a kit. For around $500 you can get a kit for a clone dynaco ST-35 from either triode electronics or dynakitparts, have the pleasure of building it yourself and knowing how to repair it if fails, a retube for this amp would only run around $50 and only needed maybe every two years depending on useage. The only true way to get the sound of a tube amp is to have a tube amp, a tube preamp with a SS amp is a little better than all SS but not much. There's also a lot of good deals on the used market right now.

    Good Luck, Greg

  10. Partsexpress.com has a good selection of caps, I get all the caps I need for rebuilding old guitar amps from tubesandmore.com but not sure they would have the right values you need, might be worth a look. As far as brands go I guess it depends on how much you want to spend. Some people think there is no difference in sound quality between diff. brands, I may be in the minority here but I can hear hear the diff. between caps, however if cost is an issue just go with the house brand at Parts Express. Personally, I would use Solens in the power supply and go with auricaps or the midrange Janzens in the audio circuits. Another option would be the Obligotto caps from diyhifisupply.com, they get great reviews but I haven't tried them.

  11. I picked up a pair of Cornwall I's last Oct. and was planning to try the obbligato's myself but instead went with the correct values

    in the dynamicap line. I'm happy with them but they are costlier. I also updated the speaker wiring and installed new binding posts.

    I didn't replace the inductor thinking it wouldn't make much of an improvement, the Erse 2.5mhy available at Parts express is only a 16 ga

    and I wanted to go with at least a 14 or preferrably 12 ga. Still, I'm wondering if the 16 ga. Erse would be an improvement or not. Several

    forum members suggested I leave the stock inductor in place and just do the caps.

  12. Hi all,

    I'm a new Klipsch owner and this is my first post here. I recently picked up a pair of 1977 Cornwalls in practically like new condition except for several

    small chips on one of the risers. I'm driving them with a set of ASL Monsoons but am planning to build a set of Bottlehead Paramounts for them.

    I'm planning on doing upgrades to the crossover and already have the caps and will also replace the wiring but have a question about the inductor.

    I'm going to stick with the original crossover specs and am wondering if I should keep the original inductor or replace it. I've searched here on the Forums

    and am now confused as if it really makes much of an improvement. Since the inductor in the type B crossover is only used on the woofer it seems that

    I could stick with an iron core or maybe an air core depending on what is available.

    So, What do you think? Should I swap it out or just stay with the original?

    Thanks, Greg

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