ACV92
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Posts posted by ACV92
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1 hour ago, James Real said:
I was thinking of creating a subwoofer system for my Jeep it would be placed in the spare truck wheels area can this be done? As much as possible, it should be a stealth design any idea how to do it?
It's been done plenty of times. I presume you have an SUV style Jeep and not a CJ. You can do straight baffle board, baffle board with enclosure in the well, etc. There are some good videos to help you get an idea of what it involves. I quickly came across this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfkpxZtAEA0
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Yeah, I've been researching more and I'm going to stick with the 3000 DSP. wvu80 the price for the Crown XLS 1502 was $309 on Amazon vs $399 at PE and elsewhere. Amazon also has the 3000 DSP for $251.99, free shipping. I'm only going to be running one UMAX 15 for now. So, at 4 Ohm bridged the 3000 DSP will be plenty.
I was looking at the REW software as well. They recommend this mic: https://www.amazon.com/miniDSP-UMIK-1-Measurement-Calibrated-Microphone/dp/B00N4Q25R8/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1487474513&sr=1-1&keywords=miniDSP+UMIK-1+USB+Measurement+Calibrated+Microphone
Is this a decent mic?
derrickdj1 - What are you going to finish the enclosure with? Keep the pics coming.
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I've thought about getting some plastic sheeting, hanging it from the ceiling of my garage, and encapsulating the work area to help with the dust. Haven't tried it yet. But yeah, MDF dust is nice and fine and covers everything.
Have you been happy with the iNUKE's? I just posted a question in my thread because I'm bouncing back and forth between the 3000 DSP and the Crown XLS 1502. Amazon has the Crown for $309 vs $399. I like some of the features of the Crown vs the iNUKE. I just need to make a decision....
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Guess I'll give it a shot. Good deal with the weather. Luckily, I've got a spare bedroom in the basement to build it. Otherwise, I'd be waiting another month or two for it to get warm enough.
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The receiver I'm using says that the sub output level/impedance is: LPF (EFFECT OFF) = 3.5V/1.5k-ohms. Is that going to be enough of an input signal for a pro amp?
I had decided on the NU3000DSP but Amazon has the Crown XLS 1502 for $309. To run the UMAX 15 should I go with the Crown instead?
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Did you use the misting technique that minermark mentioned with the Gorilla glue? Was it that hard to work with as some had said? Just curious, as I'm ordering my flat pack on Monday.
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wvu80 - Groan????? That was some solid comedic, albeit lame, process there. At least in my mind. Many of the respondents here are far more educated than I. I'm an older dog trying to learn some new tricks. Quite frankly, it's awesome that so many are willing to share their knowledge to help ensure that I make an educated decision in the design process. I've got a long way to go. Audio to me is the ultimate challenge as far as reproduction and accuracy. Is there ever a pinnacle to where an audiophile says this is the mountain top?? I think not.
Guys in Japan are having power poles constructed in their yards to ensure an absolutely dedicated power source for their audio systems. They don't want even a hint of interference on their incoming lines. I believe it costs around $180,000 to have this done. Are you that committed?
My gear isn't remotely close to many of the Forum poster's setups. I can only work with what I've got. Yet, with a Forum such as this I can begin to build something that to me is closer to the 'holy grail' of audio. So much knowledge so little time.
Here's to audio and the tingling sensation of the accurate reproduction of the source component. May your db's be loud and clear with your neighbors asking what the he** was that. If they can feel it in the subterranean parts of their homes you've achieved acoustic lineal superiority. Does that even make sense? I hope so.
Here's to Klipsch and the sound wave. An everlasting bond of engineering and audio output. Talk with you soon. Thanks to all.
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Man, this thread is getting sticky. Couldn't help myself. After all input, I'm going to stick with good old 'Elmer's Wood Glue.' See how I did it again there, 'stick.' Sorry, I'm in a good mood. It's Friday night, I've got a beer sitting next to me, and soon I'll be listening to some tunes with my shot little SW-10. It's only 22 years old. At least it still plays to some minimal degree.
As far as the Elmer's goes, I've got plenty of clamps. I've built sub boxes before with it and never had an issue. Back when I was more into car audio I remember installers using Elmer's on systems that literally had stop your heart SPL levels. I asked the question to see if there was something better, and maybe one of the others is. But water, hard to work with, to thick for joined surfaces, are not what I want to deal with. If the box I put together blows apart, well I guess I'll have to try again...
So, I've decided to go with the Umax 15 and the NU3000DSP. I'm going to order them Monday. I really appreciate everyone's help with this. It will be a little while before I get it all setup but I will let you know how it goes. I'm sure I'll have questions regarding the DSP settings. Stay tuned...
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One other thing, glue for the enclosure. Back in the day I, and quite a few car audio installers, used Elmer's Wood Glue. Is Gorilla Glue, or others, better?
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After reading everyone's posts I've decided I'm going to get the 15" Umax. I realize the HO is somewhat more musical, but I'm coming from a Klipsch SW-10 single sub in this setup. I don't think I'm going to be disappointed. Plus, if this setup grows and I start using it for movies as well I would be covered. Is there any advantage to putting feet on the enclosure? It's going on carpet so I'm not worried about floor/enclosure vibrations.
Now, I'm down to two amps. The Behringer NU3000DSP and the Crown XLS 1502 Drivecore. I've read the subsonic output debate and well, I don't feel that will be an issue for me. Consider the aforementioned sub.
So, with the iNUKE are the fans really that loud? It will be in an entertainment stand that is somewhat enclosed. The front is open but it's enclosed on all other sides except for a cutout on the rear. Do you feel that the fan will be that invasive considering it will be about 10' from my face. The input/output connections are easy enough to work around.
The Crown has more input/output options and I figure will have a somewhat similar actual output as the iNUKE. If anyone has any actual output readings for either at 4 ohm mono/bridged please share them. The input sensitivity option with the Crown will prove useful. I don't believe the iNUKE has this feature. Lastly, are the DSP's similar in capability? For a relative beginner, is one DSP easier to use then the other? Is the Crown worth $120 more?
Now down to the receiver I'll be currently using. I've decided to leave the Marantz SR-8400 in our rec room as it is all setup for movies/music. So, that leaves me with, I'm embarrassed to say, a Yamaha RX-V590. Please, I can hear you laughing from here. Here's my question, the LPF on this unit is set at 200hz with a 6db slope. There is no output level control for the sub out, it is what it is. I will upgrade as I can, but what problems do you see with the what I'm trying to do? Am I wasting my time until another upgrade?
I apologize for the length of my posts, brevity is not one of my strengths. Sorry if redundancy creeps in here to. I'm trying to eliminate buyers remorse before I hit the place order button.
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DizRotus - Thanks for the link. I've started with room acoustics and will move around from there. This is what I was looking for. So much to learn.
wvu80 - You've eased my conscience. I've always enjoyed the sound reproduction and efficiency of the Klipsch products that I've heard. I'm trying to upgrade as I can and Klipsch will definitely be in the mix. After the sub project I want to go audition some RF-7's. Then start saving some more pennies. But first, I should move to a preamp/amp combo setup to run them........
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Man, apparently I have some more homework to do. I feel inadequate.... I just wanted to plug the sub in, mess with a couple little knobs, and dance around my room spilling beer as I go because it sounds 'so good'!! With that being said, I want to talk to average folks about audio like my uncle talks to me about photography and Ham radio. I want to watch them physically glaze over as my mouth moves and feel good inside doing it. When I mention Xmax and excursion intelligently and they think I'm talking dirty I'll know that I've been steadily climbing the mountain. Alright, enough sarcasm.
I've dabbled since I was a teenager, built a few car systems, moved to home audio, but never knew enough to 'really' know what I was doing. I've got some time before I dive into this little project so I feel that I should fill my down time with the some audio education. I'm just looking for some good places to start. What books/websites would you guys recommend that cover the spectrum of design, T/S parameters and their interactions/behaviors, crossovers, enclosures, etc. I understand that experience is an exponential component within theoretical and empirical applications. I have a little experience but need a better theoretical foundation to build on. Your suggestions and analyses have been very helpful. It is appreciated.
One other note, I feel a little dirty being on a Klipsch forum and I haven't mentioned Klipsch in my posts. This sub setup will be with my KG 5.5's. I know, not the most noteworthy of Klipsch's past and present offerings., but I've been happy with them. I want to try the Crites tweeter diaphragms upgrade to see if brings the upper end to life a little more. If I had the money, Palladium's and some Marantz Model 9's. A more obtainable target for me are the RF-7's. But, that's a ways off. Sorry all, I'm rambling. I need to go to bed....
Thanks again.
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Roboklipsch - Thanks for the graph/info. It's a bit of an eye opener. I wouldn't have thought that the 15" Ultimax would have that much more output than the 15" HO. Their respective curves are more of what I expected but not that much of a db increase. So, I'd like to go with the 15" Umax but I'm just nervous about placement. It's a bedroom setup so there is really only one spot that I could put it, left front corner. It's about a 500 sq. ft. room but I'm limited with the layout and 'amenities' within it.
That's why I was looking at the 12. There's only a 3" difference in width between the 15 and 12 but it's enough. A little more maneuverability with enough room in the right front corner to add a second one, if I wanted to. The more I read, adding number 2 is best for filling holes in the bandwidth/listening area while gaining 3/6 db depending on placement, etc.
My thing is with the localization of sound from only one sub. Bass is 'non-linear' but I don't care who you are, you can tell where it's coming from. That's why I'd like to run one in each front corner. But the output difference between the 12 and the 15 is killing me, especially for less than $30 difference.
I think some of the 'amenities' in the room may have to be consolidated....
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Well, given the replies I may have to find some more space for the 15. It seems there's a slight split on the Umax vs. the Reference HO for mainly music listening. Roboklipsch, what you're saying makes sense. I'd like to see curves of an HO vs Umax. I would presume the HO would naturally run a steeper curve from say 35 to 20 versus the Umax. I would expect a hint more of a rise at 50 - 35 possibly than the Umax. I'm completely guessing here but it sounds right in my head. Correct me if I'm wrong.
wvu80 - You've been very helpful as have the others. So, now I'm leaning towards the 15. I'm still going to do some more research on an amp, with everyone's input considered of course. Fizik has graciously offered to let me check out his setup. I'm definitely going to take him up on that.
Anyway, thanks everyone. I really appreciate the feedback. As I said before, I want to do it right the first time.....
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I am only looking at one sub for now.
jasonstr (others) - I was thinking of the Ultimax considering that it should run a flatter response curve, drops a hair lower without as much loss at the bottom. It makes sense with the HO though with music. Smaller enclosure, different driver, which has more of an ability to push the curve a little higher in the 'music' bass range. Do many music tracks trickle down in the low 20's? I thought that the bottom in most music was around 25 - 30 hz.
wvu80 - monoprice is where I bought my speaker wire when I redid my rec room setup. So, you feel that the 'bridged' rating of multi-channel amps is overstated? Are the ratings with mono amps more accurate? Marketing tactics are always up for scrutiny. The Crown I'm looking at is, as you said, rated at 1,000 bridged. The Behringer unit you recommended is rated at 3,000. Fizik recommended the Dayton (mono) unit at slightly under 1,000. You really don't think that the Behringer would be overkill? Appreciate your input.
derrickdj1 - I'm sticking with a sealed unit. Tight transients is what I'm looking for. I know with enough power and the right design vented enclosure you can get awesome results. For a first DIY I'll stick with sealed. I'm in Spokane Valley, WA. I might have to try and convince Fizik to let me see what he's done. I work in Boise once a month.
Fizik - I'll be heading to Boise in a couple of weeks. Are you up for a demo? I usually stay in Nampa. If not, that's fine. The Dayton unit you recommended does look like it would be a little less involved than a DSP. Unless I'm looking at this incorrectly. I'll have to do some more research.
The Crown amp I was looking it says it has a DSP. The Dayton unit looks as if, correct me if I'm wrong, a passive EQ. DSP's are active control, right? Remind me what the general trade offs are. It's been awhile since I've dug into what little audio knowledge I have. Anyway, thanks all. It is appreciated.
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I'm considering diving into a DIY sub build after looking into a few others setups. I thought I would start with the Dayton Audio 12" Ultimax Kit and the Crown XLS 1002 Drivecore pro amp from Parts Express. I'm limited to the 12" due to some space constraints. It's mainly for music so I'm not overly worried about trolling down to subsonic levels. I have some questions for those that have done this before.
I have an older Marantz SR8400 with no XLR outputs. So, for the input to the Crown I was going to use an XLR to RCA adapter and an RCA cable from mono out to adapter. The Crown amp has RCA inputs but is there any advantage doing it the way I suggested? I've read that some think that input line level voltage is a consideration when using a pro amp. So, I'd like to setup right the first time. For the output I was going to use Speakon connectors at both ends and put a female Speakon terminal on the back of the sub. I don't see any issues with this.
I am curious as to what people like for decent RCA sub cable. I'm not into the hype of the super expensive cords. I just want something with good shielding and that works well. Seems like there's hundreds of them out there. Some suggestions here would be helpful.
With that, any comments are appreciated as to if I'm headed in the right direction, changes, etc. It won't be for a month or so, it's a little cold in the garage yet, but I wanted to start getting everything together. Thanks in advance.
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Thanks. I'll jump to new post to continue this. "DIY Sub Questions"
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You guys, and some others, got the wheels turning. Scrappydue is was looking at your sub thread and that is insanely cool. Looks like a fun project. Really dumb question but I have to ask, when you were nailing the panels together did you nail from the outside/in, or did you angle nail everything on the inside? How did you nail in the sides, or did you? What length brads did you use? The only reason I ask is in thinking of finishing the box I don't necessarily want to fill a bunch of nail holes. Not that it would be that hard. Anyway, thanks in advance. I've got a little more homework to do...
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22 minutes ago, wvu80 said:
I am integrating a 15" DIY sealed sub w/500 wpc into my living room setup and I set the gain at about one quarter. Any more than that I get rumbling boomy bass.
Not trying to jump the post here but what DIY kit are you using? I was looking at some ones on Parts Express that looked pretty good as far as I could tell.
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18 hours ago, Phil_12345 said:
At the end, the grain control volume on the sub is still similar to what I had before between 9 and 10 o'clock position - still some chuffing noise but a bit less. Perhaps due to the choice of songs.
AVR volume is at -20 db during adjustment (still pretty loud for me), But will try at -10db or 0db preference volume and more extensive testing of music this weekend when no one is home.
23 minutes ago, ACV92 said:If you test your system at -10 db to 0 at the current gain settings you may find the cone of your subwoofer across the room after a few good notes.
Just saying to make sure he turns the gain down before he dives in. After calibrating, I've always turned my sub out down to -6 or -7 for movies, -2 to -1 for music.
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If you test your system at -10 db to 0 at the current gain settings you may find the cone of your subwoofer across the room after a few good notes. A little sarcastic but do as RoboKlipsch says and get an SPL meter and a setup disc. I use a simple Radioshack meter mounted to my camera tripod. Here's a link to one, they're invaluable for system setup. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radio-Shack-33-2050-Sound-Level-Meter-/192096599769
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Jason str - Looking back I think it may have been a design flaw with this line of subs. Klipsch made extra effort to reference using a two prong adapter with any hum. Zeron said that he'd done the same thing with his SW-12 for the same reason. I've checked my outlets with a plug in tester, don't know how accurate they are, and they have always shown OK. I have no other issues with my other subs and equipment. A section of the amp may be starting to go bad. I tested the sub again tonight and there is still a very slight hum only audible when your head is right next to it.
jjptkd - I'm starting to wish I was on your side of the state. I'm in Spokane. The snow I've shoveled this season is about 7' high on the side of my driveway as of Saturday morning. Anyway, your not kidding about the age, I looked at the receipt today and I bought that sub new in August of '95 for about $430 with tax. Almost 22 years ago, my lord time flies. As I said before, it's always played a little on the muddy side. I'm going to have to go shopping soon. I think I've gotten my money's worth.
Thanks for the sub suggestions to both.
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OK, ground loop folks explain this one. My SW-10 was exhibiting some noise, as stated earlier, and here's what I did to eliminate it. Without source connected the sub would hum, and play an FM radio station with an RCA cable connected to the sub input jacks. Here's what I did. After reading reactions to a post about hum, Jason str pointed me in the right direction. I took some 12 ga wire and connected some ring terminals to both ends of the wire. I mounted one end of the ring terminals to a random screw on the amplifier board and one to the ground terminal on the receiver,
What a difference. I have never been able to play this sub with the 3 prong plug set in the outlet. I don't know what changes happened with the ground wire but it is great. All I hope is that someone else with this issue can remedy it as I did. Kudos, to the Klipsch forum for solving a weird issue. Zeron, try this and see if the SW-12 plays as you want it to. I realize that you've messed with the amp but I can honestly say this dumb trick actually worked for me. Let me know what you find.
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Sorry about the typos. Should have been "...is to try..." and "...figured I'd give....'. I hate that.
72 Hour special
in Subwoofers
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You make any progress today? Out of curiosity, what are the outer dimensions of the box? It looks like your using 48" clamps.