jc179

hey thanks for the info. I'm going to try a R&R see how it goes. Other than that, a new drive is ~135, I remember seeing them at about 80 not too long ago Cheers JC

Hmm I've got the driver apart now, the voice coil looks to be in perfect shape... There may be some loose wires at the end but they are still 'wound' around the coil. Perhaps that is what was causing the jingle jingle sound from the driver. I can post some pictures of how itl looks in its current state. Any suggestions for glue type to glue the coil and stop the lose wire vibration? Some strong thin epoxy with a high temperature rating? Just wondering if I can fix it first, always willing to give that a try! Thanks, Jonathan

Hey Thanks for the info. I did call customer service, and all they were able to provide me is that yes it is a replacement through another vendor, however I couldn't find any specs. I think your right and replacing the bottom on both is a great idea. I did check the caps, and the xover boards and air wound coils, the wiring isn't even tanned. I really wasn't driving them hard, and didn't notice any burning smell eminating. I used the parametric EQ to boost the 38 hz range up 6 db. The output meters were at about 50W on my MX1000. It added some more low bass drum punch to a few slower rock songs I was listening to sounded quite nice, but I suppose I added to much punch . I want to remove the plastic piece around the front of the speaker - trying to remove it carefully but no luck so I could start removing the rubber surround and then the spider to inspect the voice coil. I'm not sure if all of them are this way, but this particular speaker seems to have a new front rubber surround and whoever glued the plastic surround back used some epoxy instead of the regular tacky glue. Are these drivers pretty well built or are they really this fragile? thanks, Jonathan

Hey everyone I unfortunately damaged one of the lower drivers in my KLF-20 set. I realize they are all the same K-1036-K drivers, but when I went to try and source a new replacement part, I found out the K-1036-K is no longer available and is only K-1036-E now. Should I buy a pair and replace the lower in both sets? Or are the drivers close enough in terms of specs that I won't notice a difference? The problem with my old K-1036-K is I suspect I've melted the glue a bit and the coil has slid off the back. Does anyone know a good technique to repair these, and remove the front plastic to get at the rubber to remove the cone?... or is repair not really a good solution? Just looking for some input and advice / suggestions! Thanks Jonathan