emice

Also consider replacing the amp in the subwoofer with just a regular subwoofer amp, without left/right amplification. Cost $90. Then use the 3 ifi pieces in a 7.1 home theatre. You'll still need 5 more speakers that are similar enough in size and sound to the ifi's. I'd suggest the Energy Take 5 set for $180. Add a 7.1 receiver for $300, use the ifi left/right speakers in the front, 4 energy speakers as side and rear surrounds, and 1 energy speaker as center. The new sub amplifier on the ifi sub will connect to the subwoofer line out from the receiver. A very nice theater setup for about $600, maybe $500 if you shop around or find a used receiver. Energy and Klipsch are part of the same company and both ifi and Take 5 are known for packing a punch. The Take 5 has been recommended a lot over the last 10 years, and it is hard to find a bad review. Subwoofer Amp $90 http://www.apexjr.com/amps.html http://www.apexjr.com/150ClassD.htm Energy Take 5 $180 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882269004 They are actually on sale for the next 48 hours for $130 with promo code EMCMNLP33. Receiver $300 7.1 channels preferrably. I like Denon, Yamaha, Onkyo. Shop around. Denon will cost more, but the amplification tends to be a tier up. The Audyssey tech in some models intrigues me, useful if you want the system to calibrate itself for optimum response using a microphone. If you really have to keep costs down find an older 5.1 receiver for closer to $150. You'll have two extra Energy speakers in that case, which can be used in a second room. Many 5.1 receivers have built in support for stereo speakers in a second room, so that shouldn't be hard to set up.

The cost for the amp is $150 at the site I linked and there is an optional desktop volume control for another $15. The speakers are no longer in my possession and the owner will have to decide if he wants me to try this. I just wanted to put this out there for those looking for a permanent fix. The first step would be to unscrew the existing amp and measure the dimensions of the opening. Compare that with the cutout dimensions in the specs for the Keiga, which are posted above. I don't have access to the sub right now but the Keiga is likely smaller, so a piece of wood cut to the same dimensions as the rear of the sub may need to be screwed or glued there, and the Keiga mounted to a smaller hole in that. If someone could measure the size of the cutout for the existing amp and post it here, that would be nice.

I am considering replacing the amplifier module in the back of the sub with another 2.1 channel unit, the Keiga KG-3100. It only claims half the output wattage of the original amp, but it should still be plenty loud, since doubling the wattage nowhere near doubles the volume. But more importantly, Keiga amps have been used and recommended by speaker building enthusiasts for years and don't overrate their wattage/distortion levels. When putting out the rated power of 25w to each satellite and 50w to the sub, THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) is at 0.08%. The engineers at Keiga could have kept turning the volume up until distortion got close to 1% and measured double the wattage. The measured wattage is not the max wattage the amplifier can put out, but how much it will put out before exceeding a certain percentage of distortion. The volume knob can go higher but beyond 25 watts the distortion level is too high so Keiga doesn't count it. The ifi amp's wattage was measured while approaching 1% distortion, so it is rated at double wattage of the Keiga, when really they are both close to equal. Both amps have low distortion at output levels below 2/3, and both will put out similar wattage at max volume, but with high distortion. Klipsch counts the higher distortion wattage because it is more impressive for your average customer to see high wattage numbers than low THD numbers, likely because customers think that the wattage level is the loudness that comes out with the volume at maximum. Keiga's customers are technically knowledgable speaker builders and want to know how high the amp can go before it begins to have much audible distortion. Two very different measurements producing very different numbers for different audiences, but both amps are similar performers, and good. Below is my source for the Klipsch specifications - And more info on the KG-3100 - The Keiga KG3100 2.1 Amplifier features a 50 Watt mono subwoofer channel and two 25 watt satellite stereo channels. The amplifier is designed to be built into the subwoofer enclosure and then run speaker wire out to the satellite speakers, although it does stand alone just fine. There is an electronic crossover (high/low pass) that is variable from 75 to 150Hz. There is also a switchable bass boost and level control for the subwoofer section. The amplifier will accept either RCA or 3.5mm Mini Jack inputs. An optional KG-VC desktop volume control is available. The KG-3100 is the perfect choice to build a system for your computer, office or small apartment. Applications also include 2.1 channel Home Theater, I-Pod, MP3 player, portable CD player and other small audio devices. This amp is also perfect if you are looking to build a portable hi-fi boom box - just remember to chamber off your left/right speakers from the subwoofer if sharing the same box. Specifications: Power output Watt@4 ohms: 50 & 2x25 THD: 0.08% S/N ratio @ rated power: 76dB Input sensitivity @ 100Hz - low level: 80mV Input sensitivity @ 100Hz - high level: 3.5V Input impedance: 22k ohms Variable Crossover Frequency: 75-150Hz Weight: 7.6 lbs Dimensions W x H inches: 7-7/8 x 8-11/16 Cutout hole W x H inches: 6-7/8 x 7-11/16 Depth: 3-1/8" AC Voltage: 115 / 230 switchable As of 2007, Keiga Amplifiers will be warrantied for two years from date of purchase. The amp must be sent in for us to verify the serial number. The Owner's Manual for the iFi does not contain a power spec. The focus of this system was not on power numbers but on quality of music reproduction. .... "Unofficial" power numbers (continuous) are 50W*2 for the left and right and 100W for the sub (THD For those who are curious: The continuous power numbers are measured with an Audio Precision, and are calculated based on an RMS sine wave voltage into known load. The peak power is calculated similarly, but looking at the peak voltage with no visible (or audible) "clipping" or "limiting" (i.e. < 1% THD). Until you approach the limits of the amplifier the THD numbers are well below that, generally about 0.05% to 0.1% THD, depending on power level and frequency. And more info on the KG-3100 - The Keiga KG3100 2.1 Amplifier features a 50 Watt mono subwoofer channel and two 25 watt satellite stereo channels. The amplifier is designed to be built into the subwoofer enclosure and then run speaker wire out to the satellite speakers, although it does stand alone just fine. There is an electronic crossover (high/low pass) that is variable from 75 to 150Hz. There is also a switchable bass boost and level control for the subwoofer section. The amplifier will accept either RCA or 3.5mm Mini Jack inputs. An optional KG-VC desktop volume control is available. The KG-3100 is the perfect choice to build a system for your computer, office or small apartment. Applications also include 2.1 channel Home Theater, I-Pod, MP3 player, portable CD player and other small audio devices. This amp is also perfect if you are looking to build a portable hi-fi boom box - just remember to chamber off your left/right speakers from the subwoofer if sharing the same box. Specifications: Power output Watt@4 ohms: 50 & 2x25 THD: 0.08% S/N ratio @ rated power: 76dB Input sensitivity @ 100Hz - low level: 80mV Input sensitivity @ 100Hz - high level: 3.5V Input impedance: 22k ohms Variable Crossover Frequency: 75-150Hz Weight: 7.6 lbs Dimensions W x H inches: 7-7/8 x 8-11/16 Cutout hole W x H inches: 6-7/8 x 7-11/16 Depth: 3-1/8" AC Voltage: 115 / 230 switchable As of 2007, Keiga Amplifiers will be warrantied for two years from date of purchase. The amp must be sent in for us to verify the serial number. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=369" target="_blank">http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=369

Just received a replacement dock. Didn't work. I guess the problem is in the sub. Something else I'd like to add is that the fuse has gone out numerous times in the past, but it didn't happen much once I stopped using the switch on the back to turn it on. When I first got the speakers the fuse blew out within a couple days, and I almost sent the unit back for a replacement. After emailing with Amy at customer support and asking if I could try swapping the fuse myself, I ended up just doing that. After the limited warranty for the refurb ran out, I had to do it a few more times. Something was causing an in rush of current to blow the fuse when the unit turned on, perhaps this may have something to do with why my unit finally ceased to work.

Just had the same issue crop up. I just read the spec sheet for the LM1973, the volume controller inside the sub, and it defaults to mute on power up. So if volume change messages aren't being received for whatever reason (failed microncontroller in dock, bad cable, noise, etc..), you won't get sound. The controller takes a serial stream of 8 bits to select the channel and 8 bits to set the attenuation level. More than half of the bit combinations for attenuation level result in a muting action. Only the last 3 bits of the 8 used to set the channel are used, the others are always 0's, since the chip only supports 3 channels. These channels are used for left, right, and sub. Normally the dock sets the left and right channels to the same levels at the same time, but noise could cause their levels to get set independently. If the dock connector's clock and data lines go straight to the LM1973 chip somebody could probably make a circuit to control volume by sending the right 16 bit values. It could be simple and just set the volume on all 3 channels to max, or support ramping up. One problem might be that the custom microcontroller code in the original dock might be curving the volume up differently for the sub vs. the satellites, throwing off the original balance. Still better than nothing. If replacement docks continue to fail someone might find it worth their while to make and sell such a volume level setting "adapter" to skip the dock all together. Lastly, I am reading that the docks were no longer for sale for a while and then recently brought back, does that mean these docks may have bug fixes that prevent future failures? I'd gladly pay for a reliable dock. Like a lot of people have said already, no one has made a better 2.1 set since these came out. Klipsch - why don't you update this set and re-release it, either excluding the dock or fixing the reliability issues, while keeping the Class-D amplification and the RSX-3's. Isn't it nice to be the class leader? These speakers bring you a lot of cred, exposing the brand to a level/segment of customer that is less likely to be familiar with the brand. I have recommended the ifi set to several people and many of their friends that were surprised by the sound of these "computer speakers" now know and remember Klipsch name. These are people that find buying amplifiers and speakers by component too cumbersome to delve into, but can still appreciate the extra quality the the ifi brings over the existing promedias and high end logitechs. It makes the cost benefit of the brand clear, at a less risky price point, in a way the promedias can't. The dock is useful in getting these customers so I'd suggest including it, but working out the kinks first. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that someone comes up with a long term fix for this. Also, if anyone has experienced reliability issues w/ the docks just recently being sold, please speak up.