usmcsoldriver
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Posts posted by usmcsoldriver
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Electronic xover. Up to 30db.
My thought was to keep the subs as transparrent as possible.
Obviously ill be able to tweek a lot after its installed, i just want to make sure i have a driver than can do whatever is asked of it.
Midbass is only running to about 300hz btw.
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Thank you. Only problem is i am trying to keep my subs playing 30-60hz, which would require my midbass to go down to 60hz :/
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So id be looking at 91-93db, still pretty good. Better than the Dayton RS225 i was looking at is ~88db, Dynaudio MW182 ~ 89db.
I know the klipsch woofers can handle power and i wont have to worry about compression
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I know the rb5 where the 1084 is found are 96db efficient, but what about the woofer itself?
I ask because i am looking for high efficient woofers to install in my car doors.
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How much do these replacement drivers usually go for?
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So i'm listening to my RF7's and I notice this oddity coming from the left speaker.
I keep replying the song where I hear it till I determain that it is defiatly coming from that speaker only.
I take off the grill and gently push on each driver starting from the bottom. The first one goes in and out smoothly. The top one however, there is a very noticeable scratching inside whenever the cone moves. As I started to listen for it, i could hear its effects on my music.
Any idea what caused this?
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I read that part of the website a few times before reading it. I guess I didnt make the connection between the Amp being a High current Amp and the 75A Peak to Peak. Goes to show that I simply dont know as much as i wish or should.
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1. I wish i understood what 75 Amps peak to peak means. I've been doing alot of reading, but that isnt making sense. Any help?
2. Will there be an issue if I always leave it on?
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i failed to mention the speakers! Just to give the total picture.
RF-7's.
Running through a Yamaha RX-V665.
I listend alittle more this morning, very pleased.
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I just picked up a B&K 200.2 today. $475 cash.
I havnt had much time to listen to it, but what little i have been able to. All I can say is, WoW.
Everything has just opened up. Everything is clearer, more dynamic.
To everyone that doesnt have an amp. A seperate Amp is a MUST!
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What about AMC. The AMC 2100 In perticular. I am thinking about gett 1 then later on getting another and running them bridged.
http://www.amchome.com/content/amc-2100-stereo-power-amplifiers-100w-x-2
they are about $250 new but I found one for less than 150$ on Ebay.
If I buy them when I find them at under 200$, I could get 3. 1 for 2 channel - High Pass, 2 for Mono - Low Pass. That will give the Tweeter 100 watts and the Woofers 200 watts with a supposed 500 watt dynamic power Total cost 600$, or get something like that B&K that was linked earlier for ~ 500$
But first I have to tackle the big road block. I never thought to check the Receiver for Pre Outs. Wasnt thinking about getting sperates at the time and I got a descent deal on it. So yea, how can I hook up Seperate Amps when my Damn Receiver doesnt have Pre Outs?!?! I got a solution, anyone wanna buy a Sony STR-DH700 7.1 Receiver, 230$,Retails for 300$! (he says this knowing its not going to happen.)
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Believe me I will not get offended because of the Sony, not at all... ever.
I suppose I should read up more on High Current power. Can someone provide a quick definition or a link?
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so at 1 meter i need 1 watt to achiever 102db, we know that.
How do you calculate then how much power you need to get that same 102db at 3 meters?
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ok. So even for dynamic music, dynamic power demands it is more than capable of providing the power needed?
About how much power does the RF7's draw at peak at high levels?
I ask because while watchng the Meters on the Mcintosh's while listening to the Palladiums, they were at a happy 5watts while listening to The Dave Mathews Band at descent levels. As soon as the drums and everything kicked in they started to spike at around 50 watts.
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My only concern is 2 Channel play back for Music.
The Receiver: Sony STR-DH700 7.1
Specs:
Minum RM Output Power (8 ohms, 20-20k, thd .09%) : 95w + 95w
Stereo Mode Output Power (8 ohms, 1 kHz, THD 10%) : 105w + 105w
Surround Mode Output Power (8 ohms, 1 kHz, THD 10%) : 140 W/ch
The Speakers: RF7's. Rated Sensitivity 102db @ 2.83 volts/1 meter
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Whle putting together this info, i noticed that the RF7's sensitvity is rated at volts/meter while other speakers I have noted are rated at watt/meter . What is the difference?
For Loud, but not pain inducing, listening, does this receiver provide enough power? Recently I auditioned some speakers, not sure the brand, using a Receiver, then a stand alone amplifier immediatly after. While they were small floor standing speakers, wth the stand alone amplifier they seemed to come alive. I would expect the same results at home, but the difference in effeciency rating from my understanding has to make a difference. While those were, I am fairly, ~88db thats a good 14db (if they were rated the same way) difference. I know that Klipsch typically need much less power tahn other speakers. Additionally, I was able to audition some Palladium's ran off some 2ch 250watt McIntosh's. Yum. Call me crazy, but I did not hear 8k$ difference between them and my 7's.
Using
I figure that the 7's are going to need a tad more power than the Heresys, so a +~5watt difference would be accurate? If it is, and i am actually getting 95watts, I should be good. Please tell me where I am wrong if I am.
I know that my ears are the final verdict. They seem to top heavy currently. I grew up with a pair of Heresys, so I am use to the klpsch "sound". There just isnt any punch in the mid/lows. Very unsatisfying. I am planning on adding some feet/spikes, hopefuly that clears some stuff up.
R-115SW Woofer in a Cornwall
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Hi all.
Would it be possible to use the woofer from a R-115SW in a Cornwall? The idea is to replace that woofer with the R-115SW woofer and then stack the Cornwall on top of a R-115SW. It'll show off the dual 15's and bringing the Cornwall up to ear level.