dzfan

Try the solution here. Sounds like a bad DIN socket. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/122989/1394942.aspx#1394942

Thanks for the tip. I'd be interested in hearing how it turns out.

@Ascorbic and lambenttelos, good job! Glad my solution helped. My speakers were down for years until I just got the spark of ambition to go and fix them. All it takes is a little persistence -Dan

DEC, I was able to successfully repair my speakers tonight. Here is my solution: **SOLUTION** My symptoms were no green light, volume very soft when knob is lowest, decreases to no volume as you turn it up. Seems to occur only to people who have replaced their DINs... suspicious. I too have replaced a faulty DIN. The problem was a faulty connection with the repaired DIN socket on one of the +/- 14V supply lines that connects the I/O board to the Control Pod. I suspect it was a poor solder joint to begin with and degraded with heat exposure over time. After taking a voltmeter and testing the +/- 14 V supply voltages on the Control Pod board, I noticed a discrepancy in voltage on (for me) the +14 V supply on the Control Pod board. -14 worked properly when compared to GND (P501:2 - P501:1), but +14 to GND (P501:9 - P501:8) read a different voltage (-12.1 for me). After tracing connections starting from the power supply and ending up at the Control Pod, I found that the missing link was the connection between P3:6 on the I/O Board and JK201:1 on the I/O Board. That is the connection from the +14 V line going to the DIN plug. By doing a simple continuity test with my multimeter, I detected that there was no electrical connection between the two terminals, despite a visible path on the PCB trace. After resoldering the connection, full functionality was restored. TIP: when soldering this joint, apply the soldering iron tip directly to the trace on the PCB to ensure proper solder flow and hence good electrical conduction. The problem was caused by a flux bubble between the DIN pin and the PCB via. These pins are especially prone to this problem because of the brown glue/gunk on the other side of the board which act as a heat sink when soldering. As a result, the trace doesn't heat up properly when the soldering iron tip is place only on the pin, so the trace repels the molten solder, causing an accumulation of flux between the pin and the trace, and no electrical connection. The problem may be either in the +14 V pin, or in the -14 V pin on the DIN connection, but either way, that is the likely source of the problem. @DEC, since your problem is with the subwoofer, use a continuity tester to check that pin JK201:2 on the I/O Board (the DIN connector) is making a connection with R209 and R210, which are connected to JK201:2 via a trace on the PCB. This will test that the solder connection is good. Alternatively, you can turn the device on and test that the voltage difference between the two pins is zero. If there is no connection, resolder the connection and see if that fixes it up for you. Cheers, Dan cross listed here: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/122989/1394942.aspx#1394942

**SOLUTION** Just solved the problem. I've had the same symptoms as everyone here--no green light, volume very soft when knob is lowest, decreases to no volume as you turn it up. Seems to occur only to people who have replaced their DINs... suspicious. I too have replaced a faulty DIN. The problem is a faulty connection with the repaired DIN socket on one of the +/- 14V supply lines that connects the I/O board to the Control Pod. After taking a voltmeter and testing the +/- 14 V supply voltages on the Control Pod board, I noticed a discrepancy in voltage on (for me) the +14 V supply on the Control Pod board. -14 worked properly when compared to GND (P501:2 - P501:1), but +14 to GND (P501:9 - P501:8) read a different voltage (-12.1 for me). After tracing connections starting from the power supply and ending up at the Control Pod, I found that the missing link was the connection between P3:6 on the I/O Board and JK201:1 on the I/O Board. That is the connection from the +14 V line going to the DIN plug. By doing a simple continuity test with my multimeter, I detected that there was no electrical connection between the two terminals, despite a visible path on the PCB trace. After resoldering the connection, full functionality was restored. TIP: when soldering this joint, apply the soldering iron tip directly to the trace on the PCB to ensure proper solder flow and hence good electrical conduction. The problem was caused by a flux bubble between the DIN pin and the PCB via. These pins are especially prone to this problem because of the brown glue/gunk on the other side of the board which act as a heat sink when soldering. As a result, the trace doesn't heat up properly when the soldering iron tip is place only on the pin, so the trace repels the molten solder, causing an accumulation of flux between the pin and the trace, and no electrical connection. The problem may be either in the +14 V pin, or in the -14 V pin on the DIN connection, but either way, that is the likely source of the problem. Cheers, Dan cross listed here: http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/126402/1394943.aspx#1394943

Couldn't wait for the 82 Ohm resistors to arrive so I scrounged up a 100 Ohm and a 470 Ohm and wired them in parallel. Turns out to be just right with a theoretical resistance of 82.5 Ohms. I installed them in the spot for R107 without difficulty and I still observe the same symptoms. Looks like the resistors I ordered won't be helping. I could still try replacing R120, although it doesn't look burned. DEC, I figured you might have seen the rest of the schematics if you had seen the Power Board. Sorry bout that. I hadn't seen your other thread. Looks like we're in the same boat now. I'm going to continue testing the rest of the components with a multimeter to see if they match the specs on the schematic, particularly the transistors and caps. I'll let you know if I find anything suspicious.

Full schematics available here: http://www.thompdale.com/bash_amplifier/2-1/2-1_bash_amp.htm I have the same fried resistor (R107), and the same problem as the original poster, with backwards volume and very quiet sound. Just ordered (2) 82-ohm 1/2-watt resistors from Digikey. I'll post again when I receive and install them. @DEC: did you check the sub-woofer board for damaged components?