Brunt

Did we ever get the full review of the Ultra 12's or what?

There goes my liquor license!!

I mean what says fine audio more than that picture?

That's a little slice of heaven right there.

You're worthless!

My RF-62ii's were his! lol...and he actually helped me find the deal on the RC-3. Found the RS-3's recently on Craigslist. I had a Polk Monitor setup originally which I liked, but I'm glad I transitioned to the Klipsch stuff...and did so because of hearing his different setups. Plus the same receiver, and paint on screen, and...well, you get the idea. Yeah, he found the receiver deal too. Paint mix is different, but he's not the biggest fan of painting.

They were unbridged when I moved them to a different setup. I never tried them unbridged on my front stage because I figured it didn't matter, I needed the bridged power.

My RF-62ii's were his! lol...and he actually helped me find the deal on the RC-3. Found the RS-3's recently on Craigslist. I had a Polk Monitor setup originally which I liked, but I'm glad I transitioned to the Klipsch stuff...and did so because of hearing his different setups.

There is another member here I know of who had your dilemma and stuck with bookshelf speakers firing directly at the ear and it sounds great. I think that would be better in your setup if your seating position was up against a wall. If I had your space, I would go with the RB's...just my opinion.

In a 12x10 room, if your seating position was up against wall especially, I would just go 5.1.

Hello everyone, I am posting in Home Theater because let's face it...this is where the action is. I have been accused of being another forum member's side account or secret identity. I can assure you I am my own person...The other member who I share views and geography with can be far to argumentative for my taste, it's as if he wants us to tear each other apart. Anyway, I have partially updated my signature and I will post some pics soon once I get my room back together and get everything setup. I recently cut a hole in my wall and put in a JasonJCarney Signature Edition AV rack and cleanup has been slow. One more thing, let's keep the comments about goofy/cheesy profile pics to a minimum. Later, Buttnuts!!

Yeah, just saw that, but the guy doesn't seem to know his tweeter from his crossover at this point. That price gives me hope though...One silly question that is actually important to me because of where the Emo will sit in my setup. CAn you dim or turn off the blue lights?

I'm located in MA. Thanks for the input...that's what I was looking for.

Oddly, I hooked one Audiosource amp up to my Klipsch speakers in my business in stereo mode and the sounded good and had no sound whatsoever when powering up or down...VERY strange.

Emo resale value says it all. They sell for almost what they cost new. In fact I could probably sell mine and make a few bucks (bought mine in dec 2010 new for $707 to my door before they raised the prices). You already saw what you get when you buy junk (no offense) Well, I wouldn't call the NAD junk...I'd call my custom sealed 15" junk! lol Anyway...I hear what you're saying, think I'll wait for Emo sale just you don't call my stuff junk again. Oddly, I hooked one Audiosource amp up to my Klipsch speakers in my business in stereo mode and the sounded good and had no sound whatsoever when powering up or down...VERY strange.

Well, thats just it. I was looking for input on the NAD and it's power only because I'm not 100% sold on the Emo. I hear they are great amps, but $200 is still $200. Honestly, I probably will just wait and see if they have a sale around Christmas time.

I'm sorry for the newbish tone to this thread but I have focused my amp search on these two amps. Here is my setup: RF-62ii, RC-3, RS-3 surrounds. My uses are 80% Movies 20% gaming and my room size is 21'x12'x8' I know Emotiva runs sales a few times a year but I missed the July 4th one, but as of right now the XPA-5 is $899 and the NAD I can get for $699 at a local dealer. Used is always an option, but as of right now, I'm still finding Emo's that are a bit more than the NAD when you factor in shipping. This will be my first multi channel amp and as of right now I have 3 Audiosource 100's bridged powering my front stage. The Audiosource's have to go and I want 5 channels because eventually I will go 7 channel and I only want my Onkyo RC-180 to run two channels due to excessive heat, etc. Here is where I want your input. How will the 100 watts per channel difference (100x5 for the NAD 200x5 Emotiva) show itself, if at all? I just don't want to have buyer's remorse because I "settled" for less power. There are not many reviews out there for the NAD so I'm looking for input here because so far my threads here are yielding MUCH better results than surfing for reviews. Normally, I wouldn't even think this was a competition, but I have found a few threads out there with about 50% of posters recommending NAD...which I found surprising. I won't be moving for a long time and my mains are new and the surrounds are new to me. If I upgrade anything in the near future it would be the center channel to a RC-62ii. I hear great things about the Emotiva amps but at the end of the day I like spending less if I can. I also like the idea, and I know it can be overrated, of getting in the car and driving across town to pick up a piece of gear or return it. I have been annoyed dealing with ID companies before. Thanks for any input guys...

Knocking I would associate with excursion limiting, voicecoil smacking the back plate. Too much power does that, but how much is too much drops rapidly as the signal frequency goes down. A typical sealed box subwoofer rolls off, reduces output, below the frequency the box and woofer are tuned for. Some amp with lots of watts will attempt to compensate with EQ that is the opposite, boosting power, and matching the roll off. Two issues with that, the amount of boost can require some serious power, and there needs to be some kind of low frequency cut off to protect the driver from very low frequency signals. I suspect you amp may not be providing the low frequency cutoff, and/or has too much low frequency boost. For better answers you will need to provide more specifics, driver model used, amp, amp settings etc. Well, my sub was designed and built by Elemental Designs. The driver is the exact driver they use in their A5-350, a ported, 500w 15" sub that is highly respected for it's output, extension and value. I swapped my driver out and swapped in another, identical driver from a A5-350. My driver sounded great in the A5-350 as it should and the replacement driver sounded the same in my sealed cabinet. The amp is the BASH 500w plate amp found on Parts Express.com The problem I feel lies in the design. Maybe the amp is a bad choice, but it seems to be working fine and the wiring was all done correctly. Also, I can't stress this enough, but before the driver makes that terrible sound and while it's actually happening the output of this sub just plain sucks. I'm thinking the design of this sub wasn't tested or that well thought out, but I'm waiting to hear back from eD to see what my options are. Will keep you guys posted.

Disconnected rca's...and got same results. Its an amp issue for sure. Time for a good 3 or 5 channel amp I guess...sh*t.

plugged everything into power conditioner and plugged that into a different outlet...same problem. Must be amp electronics I guess...

We shall see...going to test more extensively today, if nothing changes I pray they take it back! lol

...But a custom sealed 15" won't.

No doubt...budget route seems to come with it's share of headaches!

Correct!

I can only think of a handfull of older amps that disconnected the outputs while powering up, nothing modern comes to mind. Something like 30 years ago most amps made the transition between AC or capacitor coupled designs and DC coupled, and for a few years some of those needed the outputs disconnected until they stabilized. Some Crown amps were like that I think. Turn on pop is often a ground reference issue, how are they bridged? Are they designed to be bridged? Yes they are designed to be bridged and have a switch designating such a function. I've read somewhere one way to avoid ground loop issues is to make sure every single av component is plugged into same outlet(I have a power conditioner). This true? How could I fix it if it was a grounding issue?