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Rjk1972

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Posts posted by Rjk1972

  1. Well when i bought her all the 12ax7s were new TungSols and the small signal tubes were on their way out. The TungSol Blackplates are great in demanding applications and sound great and last forever so I figured they were naturals for the phase inverter spots. I wanted good NOS tubes that would perform and last for the MPX that weren't to expensive and I am not a fan of new 12ax7s through experience so that where the 3 Sylvanias came in. I had a pair of 60s Mullards in the phono section but they but one went microphonic and in the tone control I was running a pair of the new TungSol. I had heard the Matsushita tubes were very close to Mullards in sound and that the factory was set up by Mullard so I figured I'd give a couple of pairs a shot as the two matched pairs were 100 bucks delivered. All the small signal tubes were replaced with tubes recommended by the guys over on audiokarma. The Matsushitas sounded ok and I was enjoying them but thinking of switching out to the Raytheon Blackplates for tone and the Sylvania Blackplates in the phono section but then the not so great restoration that was done on the 500c went bad. Started getting a loud "motorboating" sound out of the left channel. I had been thing about sending it in to NOS Valves anyways as it was having little glitches pop up now and then so off she went. I figure I will change the tone and phono tubes out after I get her back. While she has been away I was doing some reading about the benefits of 5751s and their lower gain coming in handy when you are running high output DACs like my Rega. So I figured I would buy a nice pair and try them out. I know Craig from NOS Valves recommends the Teles so I figure this summer I will try a pair.

  2. I've got my Fisher 500c off at NOS Valves for a work over. I retubed it with all NOS tubes from Brent Jesse and Viva Tubes (for the small signal tubes). TungSol 12ax7 Blackplates in the phase inverter, Matsushita 12ax7s in phono and tone spots and 3 Sylvania 12ax7s in MPX. The small signal tubes are all NOS TungSol with one Mullard for the 6ha5 and one RCA for the 6hr6. I also have some Ratheon and Sylvania Blackplates and recently picked up a pair of Sylvania Gold Label JHS 5751 tubes for the tone spots to cool off my Rega DAC-r's output a bit. I'm gonna go for a matched quad of the new TungSol 7591s.

    I've read through this thread and am wondering if anyone has any new suggestions or new favorite tubes?

  3. If the extreme slope networks make it worse then what are the benefits of an extreme slope network?

    If you are referring to an passive (analog) extreme-slope crossovers then you'll need to add all-pass filters to correct for the added phase shift, or you need to move the drivers in the loudspeaker so that they are within 1/10th wavelength of being time-aligned while using the new crossover network. If you have an analog active crossover, then you'll need to use all-pass filters to correct for the time misalignments ) assuming that the analog all-pass filters have enough phase adjustment range (they won't have enough adjustment range for certain loudspeakers, see below).

    If you have a digital active crossover, you can simply use time delay or all-pass filters to correct for any time misalignment introduced by extreme slope crossover filters if using typical IIR filters and the inherent time misalignment of the drivers/horns, or you can use custom FIR filters to correct both the amplitude and phase of the crossover filters, if your digital crossover has FIR filter capability.

    Once you complete the task of using extreme slope crossovers by correcting their added time misalignments plus the inherent time misalignments due to the drivers not being time aligned, you'll have loudspeakers that sound much more phase coherent--much cleaner.

    For instance, all stock Klipsch Heritage loudspeakers (Klipschorn, La Scala, Belle, Cornwall, Heresy) have time-misalignment issues of 6-8 wavelengths between the midrange and the tweeter, and 1-3 wavelengths between the bass bin and midrange horn-driver. One of the reasons why some people prefer gentle slope networks in these loudspeakers is that the gentle slope networks tend to mask the time misalignment problems over more than one octave. This means that the loudspeakers exhibit frequency-dependent main lobe phase issues from ~1 to 8 kHz. Once you actually correct the root time alignment issues and use steeper slope crossover filters, they sound like you've got new loudspeakers, e.g., time aligning a Belle, time aligning Klipschorns.

    I recommend using your ears to hear the difference, not your imagination.

    Chris

    Thanks for the answers.

    Any recommendations for a crossover that can accomplish this for a pair of Cornwalls? Time aligning the drivers really doesn't seem like an option.

  4. If the extreme slope networks make it worse then what are the benefits of an extreme slope network?

    If you are referring to an passive (analog) extreme-slope crossovers then you'll need to add all-pass filters to correct for the added phase shift, or you need to move the drivers in the loudspeaker so that they are within 1/10th wavelength of being time-aligned while using the new crossover network. If you have an analog active crossover, then you'll need to use all-pass filters to correct for the time misalignments ) assuming that the analog all-pass filters have enough phase adjustment range (they won't have enough adjustment range for certain loudspeakers, see below).

    If you have a digital active crossover, you can simply use time delay or all-pass filters to correct for any time misalignment introduced by extreme slope crossover filters if using typical IIR filters and the inherent time misalignment of the drivers/horns, or you can use custom FIR filters to correct both the amplitude and phase of the crossover filters, if your digital crossover has FIR filter capability.

    Once you complete the task of using extreme slope crossovers by correcting their added time misalignments plus the inherent time misalignments due to the drivers not being time aligned, you'll have loudspeakers that sound much more phase coherent--much cleaner.

    For instance, all stock Klipsch Heritage loudspeakers (Klipschorn, La Scala, Belle, Cornwall, Heresy) have time-misalignment issues of 6-8 wavelengths between the midrange and the tweeter, and 1-3 wavelengths between the bass bin and midrange horn-driver. One of the reasons why some people prefer gentle slope networks in these loudspeakers is that the gentle slope networks tend to mask the time misalignment problems over more than one octave. This means that the loudspeakers exhibit frequency-dependent main lobe phase issues from ~1 to 8 kHz. Once you actually correct the root time alignment issues and use steeper slope crossover filters, they sound like you've got new loudspeakers, e.g., time aligning a Belle, time aligning Klipschorns.

    I recommend using your ears to hear the difference, not your imagination.

    Chris

    Thanks for the answers.

    Any recommendations for a crossover that can accomplish this for a pair of Cornwalls? Time aligning the drivers really doesn't seem like an option.

  5. If memory serves me correctly, some of the guys over on the HeadFI forum brought in 4-5 top DACS with each top chip set, perhaps 20 units in all.

    What they discovered is that they couldn't tell them apart in the $500 and up range, which is what they tested.

    The conclusion is that all of the chip makers and DAC makers have ironed out the kinks in the products.

    DACs are data devices not unlike a packet switch with many or all of the same issues that have to be managed.

    Tosslink could have been great, but the implementation was poor leading to errors with no correction like USB offers. Protocols without CRC ARQ simply drop the data or predict what it might have been, you also have buffer overflows and the data is flushed.

    USB is a real data protocol and included CRC ARQ, so errors are noticed and the packet is re-transmitted to match the check sums.

    The fundamental challenge with digital source is GIGO, and there is a lot of garbage including musicians who can't play their instruments and previously good sounding recording that have the noise boosted and the peaks clipped during the "Digital Remaster" butchering job.

    Quantization Error, compression algorithms, predictive decoding, low bit rates, psycho-acoustics and Loudness Wars are but a few of the problems that become noticeable as a system becomes more clear and accurate. CDs have about half of the information on them that a vinyl record has.

    IMHO the best sound is from DTS Master, most of which are still at CD word size and bit rates. DTS 24x96 is the clear winner when you can get it.

    One thing I have noticed is that you have to roll off the high frequencies with digital, my manual on my Pioneer Elite Receiver even talks about the problem and has a setting for managing the roll off with a GUI.

    I thought USB Audio standard didn't have error correction. Where are you reading that it does?

    I read some of those posts. It was a fun read. Personally I have had similar experiences with DACs. Newer DACs are much harder to tell apart from one another than DACs from say 3 or 4 years ago. That said I will say that it was pretty easy to pick out the Limpizator DAC that I heard when compared to my Peachtree and a Rega DAC. You could do it like 9 out of 10 tries with in the 1st minute of a song without seeing which one was hooked up. Granted it was almost 3 times the price of the Rega but the difference was there. That being said I pretty much agree that most DACs that I have heard between 500 and say 1500 sound incredibly similar and are hard to tell apart from one another. None of the DACs they tested were ladder DACs though, if I remember right.

  6. Agreed most dacs in the sub 100 range are pretty close in performance although I ddid find there were some significant sound differences between the chips and the topology used in some of them, I have also found I am a NOS dac fan The Bifrost uber is a steal at its price of 519.00 They show up used time to time at 400 ish and are superb at that price

    As near as I can tell I like Wolfson, AKM and Sabre in that order. Though I personally believe that the design and quality of USB input, the analog output stage and the power supply all influence the sound more than the actual DAC chip. But all things being roughly equal I'll stick with that chip order.

    NOS DAC chips are interesting. I remember really liking the Cal Labs tube DAC. I'm wondering if there is some merit to the idea that they are better than most modern DACs based on design and/or cost of manufacturing a quality chip today

  7. I find all of this interesting. What about extreme slope crossovers? It has always been my understanding that the advantages of the extreme slope network was to eliminate comb distortions and eliminate the need to physically align your drivers. Has anyone hear compared an extreme slope network to an active network or done any comparisons between either and time aligned drivers?

  8. I have owned a few Dac's also and my current DAC Totaldac D1 Dual is by far the best so far , I am considering moving up to the Totaldac 12 down the road . I would also like to hear the Golden Gate DAC .

    Also there was a big difference between the Auralic and the Totaldac not minimal

    What comprises the rest of your system?

  9. Ladder DACs are cool. A bit out of my price range with the possible exception of the Schiit Ygdrrasil(spelling?) I'd love to hear the Schiit. I'd love to hear a Total DAC too but I just couldn't imagine spending 10 grand on a DAC. Would love to have one though :-)

    • Like 1
  10. I like to avoid upsampling. I want to hear the music unadulterated.

    I went through about a year period where I obsessed over DACs and drove all over the Northeast to hear and compare them. After many many entertaining trips and listening sessions I came to the conclusion that their are minimal differences between well implemented DACs. Some of the most notable differences were between the various inputs on the DACs and the actual age of the DAC (specifically where the USB inputs where concerned). I actually ended up with the Peachtree DACitx for 299.00. For USB (which i use for all of my music) it was comparable to the Rega DAC though the Rega DAC bested it through the other inputs. Due to an accident I am now in the market for another DAC and am stuck deciding between the Rega DACr (its a killer with its new USB implementation) and the Schiit DACs Bifrost with the upgraded Analog stage and the Gungnir.

    My main source is a Rega RP6 with 2m Blue cartridge.I use a Surface Pro 3 for a music server (its quieter then my laptop) and a restored Fisher 500c driving some Cornwalls. I prefer a detailed more Analog sound with a touch of warmth. That being said the DACs that I found appealing we're the Peachtree, the iFi DACs, the Meridian Director, the Rega DACr, the PS Audio Nuwave, Schiit Bifrost (in this spot on the list because it is the best buy that I have come across) and the best sounding DACs I've heard are the Chord 2qute and the Limpizator DAC 4. All that being said the biggest improvement in sound came from the last two. All the 1000.00 and under DACs sound almost the same with only a few subtle differences and I think you'd be hard pressed to pick the Rega, the PS Audio and the Schiit Bifrost apart if you didn't see which one was hooked up.

    I should mention I added the Gungnir in based on input from people I respect. I really want to hear that and the Micromega MyDac and the new iFi Audio DAC before I decide on my new DAC.

  11. I have an exact but slightly older set. Can't say enough about how much I like them-though I'm hankering to try some Chorus II's as well. I bought the new crossovers but haven't been moved to install them, as I just can't imagine from my listening thus far that it could get better. When I retire (in 139 days, but who's counting?), I'll probably do some experimentation that may well convince me to upgrade the XOs. Till then, I remained amazed with the stock version.

    Same boat here. I am loving the sound. I think maybe after Christmas I will spring for a pair of ALK Universals. I was on the fence between Chorus 2 and Cornwalls. Grabbed the Cornwalls because I got a great deal and could drive and get them.

    Anyone know about a time alignment mod?

  12. " I read the original manual and it states 98db/1watt and minimum amplifier power of 20 watts. I always thought all Cornwalls were over 100db efficient and could be played with 3 watt SET amps. Was Klipsch just being overly conservative. Which years are over 100db efficient."

    The original spec was 98.5dB/2.83V/4' which you need to add 1.7dB to convert to 1M.

    If you use the T/S parameters for the later K33E (Eminence 15162) and plug them into Bass Box Pro v6.0 and select 'extended bass' it spits out the exact design for a Cornwall and it says it is 101dB/2.83V/1M in the 100hz~400hz region.

    Thanks! I missed where it said 4 feet. That is very interesting about the T/S perameters. I think I read some where that the original Cornwall were designed before Theil/Small came out with their research. If that's true, well done Paul Klipsch.

  13. Well I picked them up and set them up and just finished playing a 1977 NM pressing of Supertramp's "Even in the Quietest Moments" and wow. Just plain wow. As of now I have no desire to do anything to these speakers. They blew the doors off my Heresy.

    Ok, I know when you were reading my other post and thinking I was being silly trying to give you an idea it was going to be a big difference, I will now say seeeee :o:P

    But really it sounds like you got a steal and I am really glad you like the new sound, it's more than just the extra bass, and I say this really liking the Heresy.

    Sorry I can't help with the questions, but that is still 98 db with one watt with more power to spare. I don't think you would hear a 2 db increase at 98 db, not enough to worry about, it could be different drivers/horns over the years ? ( 98 is pretty high in the speaker world )

    As far as cleaning them, I don't remember if there oiled of clear ? If clear just wipe off with a damp cloth, if oiled they can be oiled with a number of different oils, I use Boiled Linseed oil others use many different things, you will get different opinions.

    Really glad your going to not rush into any changes, get to know the sound as is first there is always time for a crossover improvement later.

    You are totally right. I was not expecting this big a difference. They are amazing speakers. They just crush my Heresy and Vandersteen speakers in everyway imaginable. I like the Heresy but that midrange hump they have would get annoying. The Cornwall seem much more coherent and alive from top to bottom. So far I really love the midrange they have and can't imagine wanting to change out to a different horn. Spent all day listening to records and was just amazed. They are very revealing speakers though and I just realized tonight that my DSD mastered Beggars Banquet is actually a little flat and lifeless sounding compared to my older Decca Stones albums. That and I am definitely going to have to invest in a good record cleaning machine. I think my next purchase is going to be that VPI16.5.

    Thanks for the advice

    • Like 1
  14. Well I picked them up and set them up and just finished playing a 1977 NM pressing of Supertramp's "Even in the Quietest Moments" and wow. Just plain wow. As of now I have no desire to do anything to these speakers. They blew the doors off my Heresy. Oh and they came with all the original manuals, brochures, boxes, and sales receipt from October 11th 1985. I'll try and post some pics of everything next week. That is when I plan on taking off the backs and checking the internals. They literally look like they were just pulled out of the boxes and set up for the first time.

    I do have two questions. First question. I read the original manual and it states 98db/1watt and minimum amplifier power of 20 watts. I always thought all Cornwalls were over 100db efficient and could be played with 3 watt SET amps. Was Klipsch just being overly conservative. Which years are over 100db efficient.

    Question 2. Any recommendations on a oil or cleaner or wax for them. I'm looking for something to maintain that veneer.

    And while I'm typing this I just noticed I have a bit of audible hum and it is definitely coming from my phone power supply. Just grounded it to my Fisher with my hand and now hum is gone. These speakers are very revealing. I'm going to need to vacuum clean all my albums. They sound amazing.

    Only complaint is, that after having them set up for an afternoon, I realize I could have maybe squeezed some Altec Model 19s in. But then again they probably wouldn't sound good in corners like the Cornwalls.

    • Like 1
  15. "Anyone out there running any Decware gear over their heritage series?"

    Running a Decware "Rachael" SE34l.3 six watt SET, and as you were posting, my favorite UPS guy is dropping of my new "Torii MK4" dual mono...

    I doubt I have 40 hours on the Rachael and I've used it on my Heresys', Cornwall IIIs, and driving the top half of a Frankenwall setup. Luscious. It's the "sound" I have been searching out for the last 30 years or so.

    I am really looking forward to finishing my current setup so that I can try out the Rachel.

    How would you compare Rachel to the new Torii? What tubes are you running. And keeping in line with this topic, do you think the 6 watt SET gives you sufficient dynamic headroom?

  16. Wow! If you routinely listen at over 90db you will enjoy this hobby for maybe a half dozen years. Then you might as well sell everything (I call dibs on any cool vintage tube gear) and buy a boom box because your hearing will be shot.

    http://www.dangerousdecibels.org/education/information-center/faq/

    I found my Klipsch Hersey to be on the harsh side with my B&K gear but once I hooked up my restored Fisher 500c with some NOS RCA Blackplate and Mullards to them, wow, just amazing. Can't wait to drive some Cornwalls with it. Once my system is all done and set up I'm thinking I'll add that little Decware SET integrated to the mix for a taste of modern tube gear.

    Anyone out there running any Decware gear over their heritage series?

    • Like 1
  17. What were you using before these ? is this your first Klipsch or heritage ?

    Just wondering, either way I will bet you will like them, they look good.

    Me, I would just listen to them for a good while before updating the crossover (because of age), get to know how they sound as is. Just check to make sure all drivers are working by listening up close.

    Have fun and Welcome

    They will be replacing a pair of Heresy. I've also heard the Cornwall 2 several times as well as the Chorus 2. I had originally been looking for a pair of Cornwall 2 so I could drop an ALK crossover into it. Heard a speaker set up like that and liked it. Or if I could find a pair, and I could make room for them, a pair of Chorus 2. I just couldn't pass up these and theyre only a 5 hour drive away.

    What's stopping you from dropping an ALK crossover in the Cornwall 1.5's? I have ALK's in my Cornwall I's and I'm pretty sure the Cornscala-wall would work in your 1.5's. Somebody let me know if I'm wrong :unsure: !!!

    That's the plan. I figure I'll keep them as is for a couple of months then drop in a set of his new universal crossovers. Then depending on how they do I might see if I can grab a set of k55v and the fastrac midhorn and do a little internal bracing. Then lastly find some cane grills.

    I'm also tempted to try out the Crites tweaters.

    • Like 1
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