007nco

I had the Pioneer Elite VSX-52 it was pretty nice and after 2 years had THX chip issues, repaired and few months later completely died. I had replaced a Denon that I'd had for a year before that and sort of like you, was ok, but not how I remembered the older Denon from 20-25 years ago. I am completely thrilled with the Onkyo TXNR3030 I got a month ago, definitely a much stronger and stable unit than the Elite was but at twice the price of the Elite, I'd hope it would be. On the memory train, an older high end Marantz from the 70's that served me for nearly 20 years that I wish I still had for some 2ch music. Although my hearing probably was better then too.

So far pretty happy with the capacity on my amp on the current 7.1 arrangement. No clipping or heat build up. I'll see if any changes in the current full range set up now that I have a baseline to compare to. This monster weighs a tick under 50lbs though so it outta have a little muscle to it. Specs on it: Amplifier Section Power Output 0.05% (20 Hz20 kHz, Half power) All Channels 135 W (8 Ohms, 20 Hz-20 kHz, 0.08%, 2 channels driven, FTC) 160 W (6 Ohms, 1 kHz, 0.7%, 2 channels driven, FTC) Dynamic Power 300 W (3 ohms, Front) 250 W (4 ohms, Front) 150 W (8 ohms, Front) THD+N (Total Harmonic Distortion + Noise) 0.08% (20 Hz-20 kHz, Half power) Damping Factor 60 (Front, 1 kHz, 8 ohms) Input Sensitivity and Impedance 200 mV/47 k-ohms (Line) 2.5 mV/47 k-ohms (Phono MM) Rated RCA Output Level and Impedance 200 mV/470 Ohms (Line Out) Phono (MM) 2.5 mV/47 k-ohms Maximum RCA Output Level and Impedance 4.6 V/470 Ohms (Line Out) Rated XLR Output Level and Impedance 400 mV/470 Ohms (Pre Out) Maximum XLR Output Level and Impedance 9.2 V/470 Ohms (Pre Out) Phono Overload 70 mV (MM, 1 kHz, 0.5%) Frequency Response 5 Hz-100 kHz/+1 dB, -3 dB (Direct Mode) Tone Control ±10 dB, 20 Hz (Bass) ±10 dB, 20 kHz (Treble) Signal-to-Noise Ratio 110 dB (Line, IHF-A) 80 dB (Phono MM, IHF-A) Speaker Impedance 4 ohms16 ohms

You're starting to sound like the guys you make fun of who say bigger more efficient speakers needs a more powerful amp. As long as you cross them over at the same frequency, I don't see why RF-7ii's wouldn't be easier to drive than inefficient surrounds. The problem is that once you have them, you're probably going to want to cross them over lower and play them louder. Lol, I don't believe one can have too much clean power. Control, dampening in addition to volume, little things Funny, but as it seems to my ear I did experimenting with running the towers full range (lol, thanks Scrappy! gotta test the limits I suppose) tonight. The auto set-up on the Onkyo had them at 40z,; which was fine and clear as loud as I cared to try it (80 on their volume scale) Books, and curios started vibrating off their shelves... time to move the shelves was my opinion. I'm testing them at full range now watching the new Mad Max movie, so far good and maybe as I just have the one sub, these can help that bass image stabilization. Thoughts?

Makes sense, just a lot of mass to move. I'm still at the tweak, listen, adjust, re-listen phase. I discovered my own hearing by far surpasses the "auto-tune" feature of the Onkyo itself. It was good for initial starting point but did some weird settings that as I tune by my own ear look and make more sense, balance, XO points and levels.

Thanks for that Scrappy and Mercedes. I'm concerned about enough juice as is so don't think I'm ready to open up that Pandora's box quite yet! Plan B is to move RS7's to the back and something like a plate speaker to do the side audio duty. Thanks for the SurgeX info Cory. I may be in touch with you shortly. But I doubt it "should" ever see the full amp draw....never say never right?

Thank you. I'll look forward to input on the top mount ATMOS. I saw them but was concerned about the reflecting concept for the higher frequencies. Welcome to the forum glad to see you've put together a great HT setup. Aside from the subs & DAES (Dolby Atmos Enabled Speakers)... we have the same speaker combo. Your room is long... at what point in the length of your space (or how far back) is your MLP? Dolby has calculated the best angle for the upward-firing element based on where most people place their floor-mounted tower and stand-mounted speakers and based on standard ceiling heights. Since it includes reflection angle when using upward firing modules, that also would include a recommended position (distance) of your MLP. That distance from your R / C / L front mains could impact what speaker choice you select for Atmos; in-ceiling or DAES.. Same with the height of your rear surround (RS-7), it seems like Jay L has addressed that placement. As far as the upward firing add-on modules (RP-140SA), you actually want the reflection, it is a required function. The higher FR of the RP-140SA conforms to Dolby's patented treble curve & proprietary directivity standards. Reproducing the height plane is vital to Atmos (via ceiling speakers or DAES) but another benefit of note, an Atmos mixed track is not exclusive to (or limited to) just the overhead or height speakers. An Atmos track will change the experience with all your speakers, & that starts all the way back to the authoring process. Since Atmos is Object Based (each object has its own panning path, left-right, right-left, front-back, overhead, etc), the information & content is sent differently than traditional channel based content, And because the content is not channel based, your AVR manages object based audio (via the Dolby Atmos Renderer) to take full advantage of both the number and placement of all your speakers—including your front L / C / R & subs etc. Thanks for ALL the great info! My MLP is 16' from screen and R/C/L speakers. I am *thinking of the CDT3800's to angle down to the MLP, set directly overhead and slightly behind and the front set equidistant from rear overhead channels, distance TBD.

In advance, apologize for the n00b questions, totally happy with my initial Klipsch set-up! Thanks Scrappy. I found a pretty good deal on a Surge X SX1115 I'm looking at that should do the job although the receiver and two subs would peak at almost 19A? the room itself is on a 20A circuit though... Here is what I'm leaning towards but open to suggestions please. I have now the RF7 set, RC7, and RS7 along with the SW115 15" sub on the Onkyo atmos TX-NR3030 reciever. I can get a pretty good deal on another set of RF7's and a second sw115 sub. If I got the second pair of RF7's would that be ok for rear sound or too much? Or is it better to try to get them on the sides? ​I can also get two pair of the CDT3800 to run in the ceiling and finally get to use the ATMOS. I'm thinking that would dial it in pretty good and all would fit and work well with only a couple days construction (mostly getting the second sub in) Anything missing or overlooked?

Thanks so much for the info. Nice to just enjoy it a bit, tune it to my preferences and research what's next. Trying to find a good power filter unit to protect it.

Thank you everyone. I have a little research to do and decide on ceiling and side speaker choices. Possibly a little construction to get a second sub. Will likely have some more questions along they way.

Great info, truly appreciated. I think fairly difficult to get the RS 7's down low at sides. Might they be better as a higher front stage set? I'm going to have tolook at plate speakers it appears for the side and surrounds...Sub, ok please do pardon me for being old school but would a better way be to get an RTA and find the smoothest response location? Agreed, multiple subs, cancellations and boosts might be a bit challenging to resolve but will think on for V2. What to do on plate drivers, are they stiff enough or better to build in wall enclosures? Will research REW, thank you all for the tips. On a related note; can anyone recommend a decent streaming service? I'm not so thrilled with the Youtube lol.

I will do, thank you. Sub crawl? I'll have to see what that is too.

Lol, I can change to any color, depends on the mood lol. Red usually a sci fi or horror mode. Nifty little IKEA lights. I did the staircase in motion activated Las Vegas style you may be able to see above the R115sw

Thank you. I'll look forward to input on the top mount ATMOS. I saw them but was concerned about the reflecting concept for the higher frequencies.

That diagram looks pretty near, thank you. I mostly wanted the sub hidden but yet close enough to the seating that the air movement is really felt.

Thanks for the welcome! Here's a few quick pictures (try to get them right side up this time!) Room is 12' wide at front, 15' wide in back and 24' long.

Hello, nice forum! Now I can research more than I already tend to do (or overdo more like it) My 25 year old Infinity system (from Circuit City) given to me from a long ago ex lost a tweeter and then my 3 year old Pioneer Elite (from Best Buy) died for the 2nd time. I heat gunned the THX chip to re-solder it a few months ago, so I'm done with my big box audio. I spent countless hours, researching reviews and owner feedback and kept coming up to Klipsch. I'm on a moderate budget so I hunted Craigslist first for the speakers. I came up with a local fellow that had a lot of RF 7's, RC 7, RS 7's, and the 115sw. A thorough test (I ran some high end mobile audio shops way back in the day) and the purchase was made for a very reasonable price. I had spent a few months studying technology in processing and again reviews and recommendations by friends and ended up ordering the Onkyo TX-NR3030 11 channel unit. A 4k TV to replace my 5 year old Samsung will be on the short list. So, all I have done is the calibration and chosen what I though was a good compromise between sound and not being too obtrusive for speaker locations and now considering what to do next. I did leave my old infinity rear surround speakers for the rear high outputs on the Onkyo, again just some OK units for rear fill. I have the sub installed under the stairs behind the couch in a triangular cabinet, sub facing the listening area, not corner loaded. Question, (and thank you if you read this far) what would be some good matches to use any or all of the remaining channels? I have overhead (height1&2) for the ATMOS fill in, front high outputs and rear high outputs (replace the Infinity) There is also a rear low output. I don't think I need a sub 2, at least with how it sounds now. Trying to figure if the RS 7's are in the best location and what I should match something for the back fill and overhead. I'm a little leery of plate mount speakers so I'll have to figure if that's the best for the ceiling.