Maximus89
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Posts posted by Maximus89
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Can I remove this paint that got into the bug screen? I've never removed a diaphragm on these so it looks like it requires soldering? That right?
its funny that this diaphragm works, if you look at the original picture, this is from the tweeter that was completely painted. The one which barely got paint in it is the one with a bad diaphragm.
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I just went with a satin black paint + primer from Premium after sanding the surface smooth..it was cheap and it looks fine after the 1st coat...im keeping these as my surrounds with the idea that one day i'll put figured walnut veneer on all 4 of them(how to get the edges straight for veneering?).
Couldn't find the rust-o-leum canyon black in satin spray can, only in matte/flat black so that's what I used. May have over sprayed the tweeter and carrying handle and under sprayed the mid horn(wasn't wearing a mask and it was hard to get inside to spray without it getting everywhere and still trying to see where I was spraying.
All in all, today was smooth. Going for a 2nd coat in a few hours and then i'll let them sit for 24 hrs(necessary?) before I put everything back together and set it up as my center channel while I work on the next one.
The next one, i'm probably just going to sand the entire cabinets with medium to strong grit and just start painting. It's so much faster and smoother a process when using a power sander instead of the stripper which of course ill still use on the horns and plastics.
Sorry if it seems that I pretty much shat on most of the recommendations. I didn't want to spend too much for Duratex if I'm going to veneer over everything eventually anyway. The crappy paint strip job and picking at every odd angle with a scraper all day yesterday pretty much wore me out and I just want to get done ASAP.
Thanks though for all the help! -
It's 1:30 am and I just finished stripping...1 speaker. I am absolutely beat. My back is killing me from having to bend for all the different angles. I still need to sand lightly tomorrow before painting.
This is taking wayyy too long. I could have just sanded the white paint out of the cabinets with my sander....and what a mess the stripper left. I'd mutch rather dust and vacuum than clean that up. Paint goo all over the garage floor.
Not doing that again. The only thing that really benefited from the stripper was the mid horn. It came off beautifully like one peice. Maybe it just works best on plastic, bc the metal tweeter was a pain in comparison. The wood the worst of all and of course that's the majority of the work.
Just going to lightly sand the next speaker and paint over most of it.
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Just got a chance to take out the drivers. Not as easy as I thought and seems like it's going to be difficult to put back together.
Now how do I remove the crossover network? - nevermind. Found the 4 screws
Also can someone tell me about this type of xover and the difference between it and others?
Type AL s?
thanks
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How do I remove the drivers from this one? Just the screws all around the edges of the front baffle(not the screws holding the horns yet) and then pull forward? Simple as that?
What about pulling out the K43 driver? I read somewhere about not laying it the wrong way or it will mess up the driver suspension or something like that? I assume you have to lay it on its side, just not face down?-
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This is what I'm working with. Haven't touched the horns yet
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Just now, jimjimbo said:
Believe me, after two coats of Duratex on the cabinet you will not see the white paint anymore.
Ok great, but what about the horns? Can I use the rust oleum canyon black right over the white painted horns? Skipping the stripping process would speed everything up drastically.
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Just now, jimjimbo said:
I did sand both, but obviously not completely down. And yes all I used was a roller… you don't need to send them all the way down at all, just smooth them out and put on the duratex. Two coats will be perfect and you will never know what was under there previously!
I should still try and use stripper to get most of the white paint out first though, right? Or should I sand it out? -
2 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:
Here's one of my earlier projects
Those look great! Gives me hope. You just used a roller? Looks like you sanded both though, is that right?
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9 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:
My question would be, what is your end game here? Do you want walnut stained? If so, you are looking at a lot of work, and IMHO, would probably not look that great, unless you are a very accomplished woodworker. If you want/can accept a nice looking pair of black finished splits, then stop right where you are, smooth out the surfaces, and get a gallon of Duratex and a roller.
I did it to my Chorus II. They were originally black oak, and sanded them down and applied Danish Oil Walnut and I thought it came out nice:
Though you're right. The Chorus was already veneered and plain plywood will probably look terrible. I'll just stick with Duratex as you said. As of right now, I think i'm going to just keep this extra pair of LSi so it's best they match and maybe one day I can start a new project where I properly veneer all 4 of them.-
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Used an entire can of this "jasco" stripper and it's worthless. Barley removed anything. I was getting so frustrated when I finally reminded myself that I made an amazing deal for LSi sitting in my room right now. This pair I'm fixing up were basically free throw ins, so I have to relax and be patient and quit bitching.
Later today, i'll go get some Citristrip and focus on one of the speakers with all working drivers so that hopefully I can get it all done in time to use as a center channel for Game Of Thrones on Sunday night.
If it comes down to it, the entire speaker cabinet is plywood right? How ugly is it if I removed all of the black paint via sanding(I did it to my Chorus II's)? What would I be looking at if I just took it down to raw plywood and threw on some Danish oil with walnut stain in it? Pretty ugly? -
Tried the second bad one. Woofer works. Mid works. Tweeter doesn't work
so....what is it with the fuses? I do need them to work?
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18 minutes ago, wvu80 said:
It would be unlikely for all the drivers in two separate speakers to all blow at the same time.
Those fuses are where I would start looking.
Just put the fuses from one good speaker into the 1 bad painted one and to my surprise it worked. The mid and tweeter sound fine. Only problem? Woofers not working.
Let me try the other bad soeaker next
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1 minute ago, wvu80 said:
It would be unlikely for all the drivers in two separate speakers to all blow at the same time.
Those fuses are where I would start looking.
Ok let me take the fuses from the good ones and put them i these to test
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1 minute ago, wvu80 said:
The black LS works, and the white LS does not?
Yes I'm testing the white painted ones right now and no signal.
The black ones are in my room connected and they have the fuses and they work fine.
These white ore ones are dead silent
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Everything inside seems to be okay I guess? What could cause no signal at all?
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Ok so I just plugged everything in and there's no sound at all. Maybe it's something I'm doing wrong. Let me double check.
nope. I just plugged my little JBL 2600 and it works.
No soubd at all from Fein these La Scalas.
like I said, all I know is thee fuses and fuse caps are missing and the tweeter got paint in there. As far as I'm aware, the woofer should work
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4 minutes ago, Peter P. said:
Yeah so basically i think its mdf/plywood with a duratex paint over it. Not sure what i'd use for re-paint the horns though.
The horns are plastic right? Serial says 89 and they do feel like plastic but i just took a closer look and they have like waves that almost look like wood grain.5 minutes ago, USNRET said:to protect the tweeters against insane wattage input during live shows
sweet, so i can just plug and play! I need to go do that test right now!
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2 hours ago, Schu said:
That's nice... even the pair with the paint don't look that bad.
Both of those photos are from the painted pair that needs work.
These are the ones i already got set up, not too bad but they did get some paint splatter as if they were sitting next to the ones that were being painted. I imagine it was like a scene out of Deer Hunter but with La Scalas. These guys had to watch their brothers be destroyed.
(excuse the messy wires all over the floor and yes these guys beg to be in a bigger space.)
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1 minute ago, wvu80 said:
Agree with you.
I am not sure how the fuses are integrated into the LSI. Mr. @Maximus89 said all four fuse caps need replacing, at least in their current condition. I would suggest the input be wired directly and bypass the fuse system, instead of taking time to repair or replace them.
As you said, for home use the LSI have power handling of 200 watts. I would think that much power into the LSI would blow the top of your head off at home.
I'm not quite sure what's going on with the fuses....are they not necesarry? I can basically connect the positive and negative to a receiver and they will start playing? I was under the impression that i cant get any sound unless i get those fuses. Is this correct? If so, i can go plug them in and listen to see if all the drivers are working.
I guess if that's the case, i'd still like to know what the purpose of the fuses are. -
5 minutes ago, Peter P. said:
I can't answer to all the issues, but I will make suggestions on some.
Regarding the paint removal OF THE DRIVERS: You'll have to use a paint stripper. Try the "safer" strippers first; those that are environmentally friendly, such as Citristrip Safer Paint and Varnish Stripping Gel. Brush some on the hidden side of the horn as a test and see how it reacts; sometimes multiple applications are necessary to remove multiple coats of paint. They sell plastic paint scrapers that would be perfect to scrape the softened paint off the drivers without scratching the horn.
Try the paint stripper on an inconspicuous part of the cabinet such as the bottom, to see if it raises the grain of the wood. If not, apply the Citristrip, and after using the plastic scraper to remove the bulk of the white paint, use a pad of #1 steelwool, in the direction of the grain, to remove the paint.
The full strength strippers that contain methyl chloride may be too strong for the plastic.
If the Citristrip reacts with the backside horn plastic, then I would give up on removing the paint and just try to sand smooth the existing finish.
Paint on the cabinets, as you've seen, looks like crap. Use spray paint. Spray paint will preserve the look of the grain better than a rolled on finish. Don't use a brush; as you can see the results...
Of course, the litmus test on the drivers is to play music through them. As long as sound is coming out of the driver and there are no usual buzzes or sounds, you're good, as are the crossovers. You could put a voltmeter across the speaker terminals and measure the resistance of the driver. It should be within 1 or 2 ohms of what's stamped on the driver.
Oh, and you better post photos of the finished speakers!
How am i supposed to see the grain of the wood? It's a black ..duratex i guess?
I was already looking at the Citristrip stripper so i'll go with that one.
Any recommended spray paints? Different one for the cabinets and a different one for the horns?
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So last night I made a great deal where I came home with 4 La Scala Split Industrials. 1 of the pairs just fine and already hooked up. The other pair are fixer uppers that he basically just threw in.
Here's what is 100% certain according to the previous owner and what I can see.
- 4 total Fuses + 4 Fuse Caps are needed.- 1 Tweeter diaphragm needed(paint got deep in there).
Everything else is unknown to me and unknown to the previous owner. I've never owned any La Scalas or any industrial Klipsch speakers, so I need guidance if driver removal is beyond simply unscrewing the front of the top and sliding it out and unscrewing the bottom of the bass bin and sliding it out. Tutorials on process of removing everything?
Not sure how I test each driver for functionality and testing the crossover other than manually swapping out with the good pair in my house(seems like there's got to be an easier way). I'm not savvy at this stuff. But, making sure I know what parts need to be replaced is my first priority.
From there, I obviously need to remove the white paint(Church?) that is depressingly all over the horns and tweeter.
Tips for removal? Just any stripper will do? Metal or plastic scraper?
Then from there, how do I go about painting it? Spray paint? Brush? What type and color? What material are these?
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is that a good price for that condition and AL-3 crossover? He says the AL-3 xo was put in 7 years ago.
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Could the parts from a Heresy pro fit right into a Heresy 1 cabinet? What about the crossover cup?
La Scala Splits Restoration
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
So I'm getting fuses. AGC 1.5 A for the tweeter and AGC 3 A for the LF just like its marked. Only problem I have is that I don't have any fuse holders. Would any work?
This one says it's for the same size that the fuses are: