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Posts posted by Maximus89

  1. Yep that was the worst of the white painted, but somehow was the fully functional speaker. Thanks. I think they look good too! I think maybe down the road I want different badges for my main la scalas. Was thinking copper plated and some nice spiked feet for the top that I can spray paint metallic copper to match. 


    For now I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the 2nd pair of LSi.  I have my CII up for sale and that could fund the repairs for the last la Scala, bc im still not sure what the issue is with the K-43. Maybe it just needs a recone. Haven't taken it out yet. If it needs to be replaced, I have to replace both woofers and that's where I start to question what to do bc I also wanted to upgrade the tweeters and crossover in my main LR set up. Maybe bypassing the fuses will be a good enough upgrade in sound quality that I can put off upgrades?


    For now im just going to focus on fixing up the white paint issue on the last one. Hopefully I'll start sanding tomorrow, but definitely skipping the stripper process this time around!

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  2. Done with the 1 that's fully functional(other than fuse or learning how to bypass the fuse which I can't get a straight answer on how to do it). 

    Shes not winning any beauty contests but sure beats what it orginally looked like! 


    That center corner protector came out horrible. The stripper ruined its texture and the scrapper made it all warped. Just had it on for transport. Going to take it off to show off the beautiful perfect corner. 

    That is the 1 badge of 4 that was salvageable but looks obvious in the light that I used a marker bc it has a purple sheen to it.  The rest of the badges are ruined. 

    Wish I got a more even spray on the mid horn.



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  3. 1 hour ago, Marvel said:


    I believe they probably meant you could bypass the fuses. Most of the consumer LS do not have fuses in them, and most don't drive them to the point where fuses would be needed. Some feel they are detrimental to to signal quality.



    Ah okay.  I have no idea how to bypass the fuses though or what it means in terms of the crossover.  Will it require soldering and new parts?  Or does it just mean disconnecting them directly from the crossover? 

  4. 31 minutes ago, mark1101 said:

    That tweeter looks more like corrosion than paint.  It is hard to remove.  I have had this issue before.  Since you already have one other bad tweeter you may want to consider replacing the guts of both so you have a matched pair or close to a matched pair.  Bob Crites sells the replacements for those.

    Not sure.  The entire tweeter was painted white, so i'm fairly certain it was also white paint that got in there, but if you've seen the same look from corrosion, perhaps that's the issue.  I've been thinking about the Crites tweeter upgrade and then putting the good pair into the other LSi and i'd have an extra pair of k-77 to sell with 1 bad diaphragm.


    8 minutes ago, John Albright said:

    TOSS that crossover, or at least remake it into an AL-3.  Schematics in the Tech section.  Bob Crites should be able to do it for you, if you don't want to.  Crites also has diaphragm assemblies to go in your tweeters making it easy. 

    Is there something bad about this crossover?  More and more i get the feeling like these La Scalas aren't really all that liked.   I feel like the mids and highs are incredible compared to my Chorus II, but they definitely lack bass.  So much so that i thought there was an issue with the woofers b/c i feel like even simple bookshelf speakers I've heard go deeper than this K-43.  There really is a nice mid bass punch but i definitely need a sub to fill out most of the lower freq. where as with the Chorus II's i loved the sound just 2ch and no sub. 

    I'm starting to be filled with doubt that these are the "ones" for me and i should sell both pairs and get myself 2 pairs of the home La Scalas with Al-3 network and k-33 woofers.  One thing i really love about these pairs i have is the trapezoid tops that i can angle for best placement and lay vertically for surround so they face up and over my head.

    Should i just focus on upgrading the crossover and tweeters for my main left and right and leave the other 2 as stock for surrounds?  I need to sell my Chorus II first before proceeding with upgrades and there is still the issue of the k-43 in one of the LS im restoring right now not working.  I still need to to take it out and hopefully it just needs to be re-coned or something even simpler.

  5. I don't think that one will work and I've been to 4 stores and they all have that same one but none are the ones I'm looking for with the twist cap. 

    I still don't even understand how several made comments about how I didn't need the fuses, yet the speakers wouldn't work without them when I tested them.   Do I have to unplug something in the crossover and then the speakers will work without the fuses?

  6. Can I remove this paint that got into the bug screen? I've never removed a diaphragm on these so it looks like it requires soldering? That right?


    its funny that this diaphragm works, if you look at the original picture, this is from the tweeter that was completely painted. The one which barely got paint in it is the one with a bad diaphragm.



  7. I just went with a satin black paint + primer from Premium after sanding the surface smooth..it was cheap and it looks fine after the 1st coat...im keeping these as my surrounds with the idea that one day i'll put figured walnut veneer on all 4 of them(how to get the edges straight for veneering?).  

    Couldn't find the rust-o-leum canyon black in satin spray can, only in matte/flat black so that's what I used.  May have over sprayed the tweeter and carrying handle and under sprayed the mid horn(wasn't wearing a mask and it was hard to get inside to spray without it getting everywhere and still trying to see where I was spraying.

    All in all, today was smooth.  Going for a 2nd coat in a few hours and then i'll let them sit for 24 hrs(necessary?) before I put everything back together and set it up as my center channel while I work on the next one.

    The next one, i'm probably just going to sand the entire cabinets with medium to strong grit and just start painting. It's so much faster and smoother a process when using a power sander instead of the stripper which of course ill still use on the horns and plastics.

    Sorry if it seems that I pretty much shat on most of the recommendations.  I didn't want to spend too much for Duratex if I'm going to veneer over everything eventually anyway.  The crappy paint strip job and picking at every odd angle with a scraper all day yesterday pretty much wore me out and I just want to get done ASAP. 

    Thanks though for all the help!

  8. It's 1:30 am and I just finished stripping...1 speaker. I am absolutely beat. My back is killing me from having to bend for all the different angles. I still need to sand lightly tomorrow before painting.


    This is taking wayyy too long. I could have just sanded the white paint out of the cabinets with my sander....and what a mess the stripper left. I'd mutch rather dust and vacuum than clean that up. Paint goo all over the garage floor.


    Not doing that again. The only thing that really benefited from the stripper was the mid horn. It came off beautifully like one peice. Maybe it just works best on plastic, bc the metal tweeter was a pain in comparison. The wood the worst of all and of course that's the majority of the work. 


    Just going to lightly sand the next speaker and paint over most of it. 

    • Like 1
  9. Just got a chance to take out the drivers. Not as easy as I thought and seems like it's going to be difficult to put back together. 

    Now how do I remove the crossover network? - nevermind. Found the 4 screws


    Also can someone tell me about this type of xover and the difference between it and others? 

    Type AL s?





  10. How do I remove the drivers from this one?  Just the screws all around the edges of the front baffle(not the screws holding the horns yet) and then pull forward? Simple as that?

    What about pulling out the K43 driver?  I read somewhere about not laying it the wrong way or it will mess up the driver suspension or something like that?  I assume you have to lay it on its side, just not face down?

    • Like 1
  11. Just now, jimjimbo said:

    Believe me, after two coats of Duratex on the cabinet you will not see the white paint anymore.

    Ok great, but what about the horns?  Can I use the rust oleum canyon black right over the white painted horns?   Skipping the stripping process would speed everything up drastically.

  12. Just now, jimjimbo said:

    I did sand both, but obviously not completely down. And yes all I used was a roller… you don't need to send them all the way down at all, just smooth them out and put on the duratex. Two coats will be perfect and you will never know what was under there previously!

    I should still try and use stripper to get most of the white paint out first though, right?  Or should I sand it out?

  13. 9 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:

    My question would be, what is your end game here?  Do you want walnut stained?  If so, you are looking at a lot of work, and IMHO, would probably not look that great, unless you are a very accomplished woodworker.  If you want/can accept a nice looking pair of black finished splits, then stop right where you are, smooth out the surfaces, and get a gallon of Duratex and a roller.

    I did it to my Chorus II.  They were originally black oak, and sanded them down and applied Danish Oil Walnut and I thought it came out nice:

    Though you're right.   The Chorus was already veneered and plain plywood will probably look terrible.   I'll just stick with Duratex as you said.   As of right now, I think i'm going to just keep this extra pair of LSi so it's best they match and maybe one day I can start a new project where I properly veneer all 4 of them.

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  14. Used an entire can of this "jasco" stripper and it's worthless.  Barley removed anything.  I was getting so frustrated when I finally reminded myself that I made an amazing deal for LSi sitting in my room right now.  This pair I'm fixing up were basically free throw ins, so I have to relax and be patient and quit bitching.

    Later today, i'll go get some Citristrip and focus on one of the speakers with all working drivers so that hopefully I can get it all done in time to use as a center channel for Game Of Thrones on Sunday night.

    If it comes down to it, the entire speaker cabinet is plywood right?  How ugly is it if I removed all of the black paint via sanding(I did it to my Chorus II's)?  What would I be looking at if I just took it down to raw plywood and threw on some Danish oil with walnut stain in it?  Pretty ugly?

  15. 18 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

    It would be unlikely for all the drivers in two separate speakers to all blow at the same time.


    Those fuses are where I would start looking.

    Just put the fuses from one good speaker into the 1 bad painted one and to my surprise it worked. The mid and tweeter sound fine. Only problem? Woofers not working. 


    Let me try the other bad soeaker next

  16. 1 minute ago, wvu80 said:

    The black LS works, and the white LS does not?



    Yes I'm testing the white painted ones right now and no signal. 


    The black ones are in my room connected and they have the fuses and they work fine. 


    These white ore ones are dead silent

  17. Ok so I just plugged everything in and there's no sound at all. Maybe it's something I'm doing wrong. Let me double check.


    nope. I just plugged my little JBL 2600 and it works. 


    No soubd at all from Fein these La Scalas.

    like I said, all I know is thee fuses and fuse caps are missing and the tweeter got paint in there. As far as I'm aware, the woofer should work

  18. 4 minutes ago, Peter P. said:


    Yeah so basically i think its mdf/plywood with a duratex paint over it.   Not sure what i'd use for re-paint the horns though.
    The horns are plastic right?  Serial says 89 and they do feel like plastic but i just took a closer look and they have like waves that almost look like wood grain.


    5 minutes ago, USNRET said:

    to protect the tweeters against insane wattage input during live shows

    sweet, so i can just plug and play! I need to go do that test right now!

  19. 2 hours ago, Schu said:

    That's nice... even the pair with the paint don't look that bad.

    Both of those photos are from the painted pair that needs work.

    These are the ones i already got set up, not too bad but they did get some paint splatter as if they were sitting next to the ones that were being painted.  I imagine it was like a scene out of Deer Hunter but with La Scalas.  These guys had to watch their brothers be destroyed.
    (excuse the messy wires all over the floor and yes these guys beg to be in a bigger space.)



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