Maximus89

further info, my tube preamp has 1amp fuse the isolation transformer says 8amp fuse

I purchased a vintage 100v Japanese tube preamp and after weighing the options(voltage converter, bucking transformer, variac), i decided with a vintage General Radio W10MT3A variac/variable transformer. Assuming the variac works, i am wondering if i can use it connected to my Isolation transformer that is able to connect 600va max. The variac allows 10amp and 2 amp selection. How does this translate to power usage to know if my Isolation Transformer can handle it along with my 50wpc McIntosh MC250, and a tube dac, and a 50watt vintage subwoofer all connected to the same isolation transformer?

That's how i started down this road. Wanted a balanced to single ended transformer to connect to the mc250, ended up sticking with single ended with the transformer in between and it makes me feel i can downsize my dac to a 1k or under and i'd enjoy the sound due to the transformer anyway

Yeah i've heard about that effect so that's why i posed the question. Yet, when it's 2:1 and the recessed mid range, if i turn it up too loud, it's just too loud but the recessed mids are still recessed. Louder doesn't give me the effect of balanced frequency. I suppose it just comes down to what i perceive as better for me and as is, that would be louder. Maybe i'll get an even different effect if i try the 8ohm tap on the mac with my 6ohm speakers and change the transformer 2:1 or 1:2

I've added a 2:1 CD Line Transformer to my multibit pcm63p-k dac output and it did wonders for giving me a richer, more musical sound. Dare i say it's analog tape like, or at the very least it is mitigating the damage the opamps do to the natural sound reproduction and removing HF digital noise. Adding an isolation transformer for clean power took the same effect another notch up. Using the dac direct to a serviced and modified McIntosh MC250. Fidelizer with JRiver 64bit volume control with lossless music files. The thing is, the natural sound character of my dac is still there with it's recessed midrange. Used to be fatiguing with exaggerated HF and LF. I don't mind the recessed mid now that the HF is clean, but wouldn't mind the mids to come forward just a touch more. The Line transformer can be connected in reverse for 1:2 step up. I did so, and i was impressed that the midrange came alive and came forward, while retaining the level of the HF and LF so i feel its more balanced. Or is that perception only? The maker of the transformer said connecting it in reverse would just make it louder and unnatural. It's definitely louder and i have to adjust volume accordingly. So my question: Is the transformer stepping up only making the exact same signal louder? Why am i perceiving it as more balanced sounding? Wouldn't louder still have the recessed midrange and just make the HF and LF too loud and give me fatigue? It isn't. Could it be giving the dac more voltage for the midrange to come forward?

I downsized to bookshelf speakers and i was dreaming about finding a pair of these rt-10's or rt-12s, but do they really have a high amp failure rate? No repairs available? I bought a 1970 Janis W-1 Subwoofer and the separate Interphase 1 amplifier/crossover just to try at a cheap price. I was shocked to find it sounds very nice and musical. Slot loaded. Blends way better than what i had before. I sometimes can't tell if it's on until i bypass on the amp/crossover and i realize what it's doing. Huge and heavy with a 15'' driver that's supposedly cheap. Looks like a nice piece of furniture. No issues other than some wear and tear. Not going to blow you away for HT, though. Amazing how so many modern subs with built in amps fail so quickly. I guess i'll just stick with this Janis sub.

Cherry

I've got to open up some funds from my hobby spending's this year and also weighing selling the CF-4's but too hard to get upgrade money back in any sale so parting seems more logical for me with minimal losses. I've got some Dean built crossovers with mills resistors and V-Cap ODAM's, looking for around parts cost in return plus your stock CF-4 v.1 crossover sent in return. $820 + your stock CF-4 v.1 crossover in return. Dean built these earlier this year. Outstanding build quality as he always does. I see he's not doing this kind of work anymore either, so here's a chance you may never get again. The V-Cap ODAMS are now my favorite capacitors after my experience with them. *Will NOT take version 2 or version 3 crossover. Must confirm date of your version 1 serial + i need to look at the values of your crossover parts coming to me in the sale+trade. *To specify. The entire crossover with wires and back panel with banana plugs will be swapped so if you have upgraded/replaced banana posts you would like to keep, i'd appreciate it if you put some replacements on first. No need to swap the bi-amp bridges. *The price is with the crossover shipped to you on me, your stock crossover shipped to me on you. PM for any questions.

How strange. They do retail. I was looking for one of these several years ago, but since it was from 2010 or earlier, the internal dac ddc was limited to 24/96. Zero mention of the internal dac being updated in their brochures and odd how it went away for a while and now back for retail under the same name so if they updated anything internally, someone could buy the one from 2010 for the new price without knowing. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

These still retail? So they updated the internal dacs? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I think the epic cf3 and cf4 are the only ones that used poly caps, at least as far as the non pro or home theater lineup went? Not sure about cf1 and cf2 but I believe they used different drivers so I would guess no poly caps. I need to open up my kv4 and check it too. I've never been happy with the kv4, so I bet it doesn't and needs a recap. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

These do have 1 pair electrolytic per board but the others are polypropylene caps and should last. You don't need to change them if you don't want to. Sonicaps will sound better, though, than those stock bennic/dayton audio poly caps. The crossovers however are known for loose solder joints. My inductor was completely loose and dangling. So you can also just replace the lytic and make sure all the solder is redone and everything held in place. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Haha not even close even with a nice deal from Cory on a b stock. I prefer 2 ways anyway unless its khorns on a long wall. Those sure are purdy! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

My cf3 v1 are naked with white stuff all over it and my cf4 v1 have screen protection. The kv4 has screen protection also. No idea why the cf3s didn't get it Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Off the top of my head it's the 227th day of 94. Thats august of 94 like mine so v.1 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk