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About Maximus89

  • Birthday 08/19/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Houston, Tx. (NW)
  • My System
    Klipsch Chorus II
    4x Klipsch La Scala Industrials (sold)
    Klipsch Forte WO(sold)
    Klipsch RC-7 Cherry(sold)
    Klipsch KSP-S6 White(sold)
    Klipsch KG 3.2 (sold)
    Klipsh KLF-10 Blk(2)
    Klipsch KLF C-7 Blk(1)
    Klipsch SS-1 Blk(2)
    Klipsch Sub-12(blk)
    Klipsch KSW-12(blk)
    JBL ES250P(Blk/Gray)
    Marantz SR7007

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  1. How strange. They do retail. I was looking for one of these several years ago, but since it was from 2010 or earlier, the internal dac ddc was limited to 24/96. Zero mention of the internal dac being updated in their brochures and odd how it went away for a while and now back for retail under the same name so if they updated anything internally, someone could buy the one from 2010 for the new price without knowing. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  2. These still retail? So they updated the internal dacs? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  3. I think the epic cf3 and cf4 are the only ones that used poly caps, at least as far as the non pro or home theater lineup went? Not sure about cf1 and cf2 but I believe they used different drivers so I would guess no poly caps. I need to open up my kv4 and check it too. I've never been happy with the kv4, so I bet it doesn't and needs a recap. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  4. These do have 1 pair electrolytic per board but the others are polypropylene caps and should last. You don't need to change them if you don't want to. Sonicaps will sound better, though, than those stock bennic/dayton audio poly caps. The crossovers however are known for loose solder joints. My inductor was completely loose and dangling. So you can also just replace the lytic and make sure all the solder is redone and everything held in place. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  5. Haha not even close even with a nice deal from Cory on a b stock. I prefer 2 ways anyway unless its khorns on a long wall. Those sure are purdy! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  6. My cf3 v1 are naked with white stuff all over it and my cf4 v1 have screen protection. The kv4 has screen protection also. No idea why the cf3s didn't get it Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  7. Off the top of my head it's the 227th day of 94. Thats august of 94 like mine so v.1 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  8. Leaking fluid? Oh no, is it getting a case of the mumps?
  9. Yeah I won't diss class D, but all those guys care about are measurements. Some of the best measuring stuff sounded the worst for me. All the ess Sabre dacs I've heard included. Some of the worst measuring stuff has an incredible cult following for the musicality but these guys won't give it a chance because of poor measurements. Forget about anything with tubes! Cables sounding different? The measurements prove otherwise! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  10. It's probably the better musical choice, but with the Texas heat and humidity fast approaching, i just cant' bear the thought of my *** and back sticking to my leather seat when i want to relax and relieve stress. I've decided on the recapped mc250!
  11. Yall think damping factor is the most important thing for the CF4 and 3? I sold my p360 w/ 200wpc and high damping factor. Was telling myself too much power i dont need, but those last few nights with a new IC in the set up had me in love with the system. Either way, it sold as i needed extra funds and now i have to find a more budget friendly amp. 2 amps in consideration. A McIntosh MC250 recapped. 50, some say conservative and more like 75 wpc but very, very low damping factor of 38 at 8ohm and dips into 15 at 3ohm and SNR 90db or a Class A amp with only 20wpc but 120 damping factor, SNR 110db Class A negatives: -The vintage 90s Class A a few hundred dollars more than the vintage mac and not recapped -The Class A consumes 110w more idle, but both same power consumption at rated output. As far as class A goes, it looks like it may not run as hot as typically found in Class A amps which is a huge bonus for me. My p360 was 100w idle and 600 at rated output and it would warm up my room. MC250 negatives: -low damping factor -ugly and rusted and pitted all over. i dont see any way to clean it without sacrificing the black lettering. Could hurt resale value if it doesn't get my drivers moving.
  12. You guys really all about that bass, huh? I wonder what Roy uses with his CF-4s? He likes bass fishing.
  13. I currently have 200w on my CF-3's and CF-4s which are awaiting mods. It's way, way more than you need. I plan on downsizing to sub 50 watts, and considering all sorts of options from 3 watts to 50, but with a magical midrange in mind. I feel my RSW15 can fill in anything i may be missing in the low end. If you end up in a big room, perfect. If you are in a small apartment, with future plans to move to a medium sized room in a house? I'd say look for a good clean low powered amp with musicality in mind rather than just power and punch. Also i don't know about bluetooth, but i recommend the Denafrips Ares II dac on the used market for near the same price range of that DACMagic. The Ares II will make your digital music sound analog. It's really an incredible value. Klipsch and R2R Dacs were made for each other.
  14. As someone with only one digital source, and a dac with volume control-albeit old digital-i wonder if a preamp is really that necessary myself? I have over $4k in a preamp suitable enough to not crush and shrink my dac as my previous preamps did. I've had it in the system and already planned to sell only to move to a somewhat cheaper model after with no phono since phono seems to be creating a lot of unnecessary heat i dont need. So the new preamp will be a few years newer and built the same but no wooden cabinet and no phono. Okay. Yet, this morning i decided to try the dac straight to amp for the first time since i purchased the vintage preamp i am using. I now realize that all that $4k+ got me was a transparent volume control. The vintage overbuilt preamp lets my overbuilt dac shine without hinderance. The dac sounded vastly better without the other preamps i've owned. Here's the thing, my vintage preamp has no remote control. My dac has a remote control. The dac straight to amp sounds indistinguishable from the dac into the preamp which i suppose is a win for the preamp as it's doing it's job. The apparent reason i can't use the dac as a volume control(from what i've been told) is because the digital volume is supposed to be bad and ancient and i will reduce too many bits. The brochure(photo posted) says i can reduce to -40 before any degradation of a 24 bit output. My computer as my only source usually won't allow me to select output bit more than the dac can hanld. An Audio Note 0.1x i had in here wouldn't let me select anything more than 16bit 44k. The DC-91 actually allows me to select 32bit 48k. Both in my windows settings and in my player software and the music plays fine and the dac locks onto frequency. I'm not hearing a loss of resolution right now with my power amp level low and my dac -24 volume just to get an idea of low level night time listening. I can't say for sure at -34 to -40. It's jut quiet. So here's my question with my source being 32 bit and the dac built in digital volume being set for 24 bit without distortion. Aren't i giving myself even more room to use the volume control without reduction in bits and negating the need for a preamp?
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