geoff.

Sounds like you have H-700s? 16 ohm Heresys.

I would buy those on principle alone Masterpieces

that resistor/“capacitor” is an aftermarket addition of a Klip circuit

If you pull it out from the corner and take some pictures of the internals it would help shed some light on what you have. The markings on the drivers, the horns and the crossover more specifically, and any other labels that you see.

There may something to this… The Crites autoformer is an honest 3 dB of attenuation, the Klipsch T2A is 3.35 dB. Enough to hear maybe not, but combined with the Sonicaps would definitely result in a brighter presentation. I still own a pair of Crites A/4500s with the Sonicaps. First aftermarket crossover I tried. I have since built literally dozens of different boards for my La Scalas, one of which was an A/4500 using the Klipsch T2A and polyester caps. It was very smooth compared to the original A/4500. I have tried various “swamped” autoformer crossovers: three different ALK versions, John Warren’s, a couple DJK versions. I am currently using an AA/4500 design from Mike Boxler using polyester caps but intend to build one using polypropylenes for a slightly brighter presentation.

…there’s a reason the guy with Heresy 4s wants a pair of La Scalas

ya man, don’t do it I’ve had the great fortune to own five pairs of La Scalas over the years. In order to float new purchases I used to always have to sell them off before trying something new, to me. Without exception every time I listed a pair for sale there would be former La Scala owners chiming in lamenting their tales of woe and regret.

Not sure how important this observation is but of the dozen or so 2133s I’ve actually measured only three were close to the specified 2.5mH value. I think I have nine of them on the shelf right now and only one of them is close to the “correct” value at 2.52mH. The majority of them fall between 2.3 and 2.4mH with a couple of them lower. So how much of a difference does that really make with a first order woofer filter? And what is the actual DCR of the woofers compared to the spec’d values, and how much does that affect what we hear? Could a 275Hz cross be preferable to 255Hz? Would you even hear it? My guess would be yes. The preference would be individual. Maybe the original 2133s were more representative of the ones I’ve measured and the correct value air cores were “different” because of that? OCD is a terrible thing. I don’t know how people live without it.

So you would like a pair of 2133s ?

@Max Dowd, the crossover points for the Cornwall are 600 and 6000 Hz, vs. 400(ish) and 6000 Hz for the Klipschorn/La Scala. You are no doubt hearing a hole in the all too important midrange between where the woofer poops out around 350 Hz in the Klipschorn and the squawker kicks in way too late around 600 Hz instead of 400 Hz. The B-3 was used in the last couple years of the Cornwall 1, ‘84 and ‘85, I think. I had a pair from each of those years. What year are your new Klipschorns ?

About halfway down my list of things to try, somewhere after selling one pair of LSIs and a Marantz stack are the crossovers from these

The world is your oyster, whether you will like the oysters or not is the question. Not sure where to start, but if you like the AL-3s there are a couple options to recap your existing crossovers. There are services offered to recap them or you could do them yourself. I’ve done them myself and found an effective “cheat” that speeds up the process and prevents a lot of aggravation. According to more recent discussions on here the AA was not designed for the drivers in your AL-3 La Scalas. But what sounds good to you is what matters. The new(er)K-55-M goes higher and the new(er) K-77-M tweeter has a different response too. I’m not even going to get into what I would spend money on here… unless you ask, lol Where do you live? I have some “spares” of things you could try before you decide what route suits you best.

@hcnelly, I think the original 4 screws will be fine for you, unless you start gigging your Belles and expect your roadies to slam the bass bins around, lol I have LSI Splits that only have 4 mounting screws in the bass bin. What I would suggest, is replacing the pool noodle foam gasket on the Kappa 15Cs with a hard paper gasket available for 20 bucks online. I have used Kappa 15Cs in both La Scala and Peavey FH-1 bins with great results. A one-word summary would “supercharged”. If that “pool noodle” foam gasket isn’t crushed tight to the point where the actual metal frame of the woofer makes solid contact with the motorboard 360 degrees around I am of the firm belief a great deal of the woofer’s energy and impact will be absorbed by the foam. Hence the paper gasket suggestion, which I now employ. I got lucky, for a couple of reasons, the first time I used them without the paper gasket. The first reason was I actually managed to tighten them tight enough to get a the solid, metal on wood transfer. The second reason I got lucky is I didn’t snap a screw or warp the woofer basket torquing it down so tight. As an aside, it was MY experience, YMMV, that the Kappa 15Cs took about 50 hours to break in. After about two weeks of regular listening sessions they seemed to gain an octave down low. Even my son noticed, unsolicited. Summary: four screws are fine, buy paper gaskets, DON’T torque the nuts off your woofers. Cheers !

Hi @AnalogPete, this seems like deja vu, but I recently built a couple different ALK designs to hear for myself in my La Scalas, apples to apples. To date I’ve built the ALK A, ALK A/4500, ALK for Klipschorn, and most recently the CSW-450. I guarantee you will NOT like the CSW-450 in your Khorns. With the stock 33uF cap it crosses at 600(-ish) from the squawker. It also drives the woofer higher before it crosses, which Khorns won’t reproduce. I have since cannibalized those boards after jumpering parallel capacitor values to simulate both the mid and woofer filter values of other ALK and Klipsch designs. The ALK for Klipschorn is the gear to my ear. It has the second order woofer filter you (and I) seek. The stock CSW-450 would be great in a Cornscala. John Warren also has a design similar to the ALK for Klipschorn that I built as well. His design really centers on the flexibility of the squawker filter and allows you to pick whichever woofer and tweeter filter you prefer. Ironically I found the simple first order 2.5mH woofer filter to sound the best (?). *** If you opt for an ALK design there has been a recent “improved” revision to the coil value in the tweeter circuit, Al has penned a value of .15mH vs the original .20mH.