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Everything posted by geoff.

  1. If I understand this correctly, which is usually a stretch, lol... The Chorus 2s have titanium diaphragms, but the Cornwall 2s still have the phenolic diaphragms?
  2. @Escoffee et al. I would suggest some double sided tape between the caps and the mounts. @Dave A and @Crankysoldermeister got me thinking about this in a couple of their threads. It eliminates the the waistbanding and indentations associated with this technique. Another benefit of the tape is the zipties don’t need to be as tight. You’ll need to have the ziptie eyelet pretty much where it’s final resting place is before dropping the tape on as it will stick it too. I had spares but your kit is probably specific. And if I haven’t mentioned it yet, leave the leads as long as they come to keep as much of the heat from the soldering iron from smoking the guts of those JEMs (see what I did there?). I think most recommend a 40 watt iron? Looking forward to hearing your impressions, at your convenience. The only thing I get when I’m in a hurry is frustrated.
  3. Every time I have sold a pair of LaScalas (three times) the majority of prospective buyers echo this sentiment. I kept a pair of LSI Splits that my kids will inherit, if they don’t ask me for them sooner. But the the one Klipsch speaker that always impressed me standing in for the LaScalas in the interim was a pair of Tangent 5000s. Two feet out into the room they were tight and full. If I could only keep one pair as the best example of what Klipsch brings it would have to be the KP-301s. I hope it never comes to that, lol.
  4. geoff.


    ...oh, you need them. Time is just a construct.
  5. If the price given above is correct for the Heresy upgrade kit I second that as a consideration. In for a penny, in for a pound.
  6. I had a look at some of those “deals” on eBay. They have very loose tolerances on the diaphragm thickness. Crites or OEM Klipsch would be the only two options for my OCD. One word of advice, whichever you choose, others on here have mentioned to treat them gingerly when installing and I found out first hand what they meant. The leads are very fragile.
  7. Dave, years ago I sprayed silicone lubricant (3 in 1 brand, the yellow can) on a pair of K-33 woofers that were beyond bleached by the sun. They instantly looked better and I could not hear any ill results, if in fact there were any. Here’s a shot of the can, notice how it says quick drying and safe on wood. My take was a paper cone is wood pulp. It is not 100% silicone so it would likely be pretty flammable until completely dried, smoke ‘em if ya got ‘em, lol.
  8. I do not have REW. Is it something I could do on an iPad as I use an iPad for everything I need at home, so far... What would I be attempting if I had REW? And thanks for your input,
  9. They are all discontinued. The K-107-Ti is what they sell now. I was in a similar boat a few years back and tried the K-107s. They are way too bright without attenuation. The ONLY speakers they slotted into nicely without any changes were Tangent T-5000s.
  10. ...still, I wonder, lol Ya, ALK A with a cap across the woofer.
  11. You can. You will get a little bit more output from that tweeter now though. The K-79 has a bigger magnet and tighter gap than the K-76. You may like it, you may not even notice. Once you get the Ti diaphragms it will be noticeable, but you may prefer that too.
  12. geoff.


    Anyone starting down the Klipsch rabbit hole and not knowing where it all ends? This will be the one you regret letting go.
  13. ...so what cables do I replace the tiny tin leads on my capacitors with?
  14. YES! Finally. Now we can hash out the digital vs. analogue debate, lol
  15. @consistent, yes, and thank you for chiming in. That was the handful of suggested changes I was going to implement. It was likely you that shared them the first time I made a note of them. Did I give you a “heart” on your original post, lol? I take screen shots as things have a tendency of disappearing on the internet, Mandela effect, you know...
  16. @kal bee, welcome to the forum. The speaker with no wires is a passive radiator, they are used instead of ports to lower the cabinet tuning. Cheers,
  17. Dean, how do you tin the ends of those Litz inductors?
  18. Recordings are all over the map with their mastering. A “best of” compilation from several different albums will drive you mad (er).
  19. ...I tried to live without tone controls, once.
  20. Thank you all for the replies. There were already a handful of suggested changes I was going to implement. I will probably just use an ALK A crossover instead. I liked the idea of the adjustable tweeter attenuation, even though I have not yet found a need to knock the tweeter down in any speaker I have modded. But it was the steeper woofer filter that made me want to try this over the ALK A. It will likely wind up crossing between 400 and 500 Hz anyway with the big ZXPC horn.
  21. I would like use to the PRV D2200Ph in lieu of the K-55 on this crossover. It has been tested by another forum member to mimic the K-55 but it has a 2” throat so I can use the ZXPC 18 x 10” horn on it. The D2200Ph also runs solidly up to 9000 Hz, so... Can I change the circled inductor value to .30 mH to limit the squawker to 6000 Hz without messing anything else up?
  22. When I fired up the KP-301s on my, new to me, Emotiva XPA2 with 300 watts a side the increase in bass was staggering compared to the previous NAD C272 with a respectable 150 honest watts per side. Baby, you ain’t seen nothing yet!
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