Klipsch Pro Audio

Talk about our Pro Audio and Cinema products here.

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  • Recent Posts

    • Hey Sam66,   Where do you live?  Changing the caps requires some ability to visualize spatial relationships and very simple soldering.  But if you don't have the gear, maybe someone close does.  Critesspeakers.com will probably do it, too. 
    • I think I will stick with Astell&Kern...
    •   If I read this right, it looks like Roy bumps the bass bin by 4 db's DX-38 settings for LaScala (1 or 2) LF with K402 & K69.pdf
    • That lawsuit proved the Bob didn't have any kind of contractors license in any state.  Kevin was a homeowner currently out of work when the TOH crew hired him. I don't think he had any experience in the TV industry before that.
    • At $400, I *might* buy a Pono, but only if I could buy the music, or copy my CDs and DVD-As to it.  Streaming with iffy connections, or none at all on my bike in West TX?  Monthly fees?  Nope!
    • ^^^^^ Agreed, all those guys have mad skills and N Y Workshop is over the top also. And Dtel like you I like my tools powered also; it allows me to screw up a project much more quickly. 
    • I have quite a few, though I have got a few back and said ... meeeehhh I was naïve to think these were great. But these 2-3 still hurt (maybe getting them back would help me realize that meeehhhhh feeling). 1. Harman kardon HK930 with broken knob shaft that I got for $5 - traded away that same day for a set of RTR series 3 model 4 which I sold a few days later for $100, the day I got a 3 pack of ESS heil's with 1 working woofer between them but all 3 amt's nice and intact for $20. However I never even listened to that HK930. I want that 930 back. 2. A Phillips speaker pair, no idea what model but these had 2 8" and a 2" soft dome mid and 1" soft dome tweeter. Man did it sound like heaven. 3. Yamaha NS25 and NS 344 sets. Didn't even get much $$$ for em. 4. Gave up a Realistic 2080 and got a RE - 2 electrostat's needing foam on the woofers. Yea I got killed on that one.   Cool. Srinath.  
    • It's not overkill at all.  Personally I'd stick with the RP-250S on the sides.  Direct firing speakers were the recommendation for Atmos at first but they changed their tune pretty quick about the others and allowed for the dispersed type, 250S will work fine and will keep the side seats from getting an ear full of horn.  160M's will be fine for the rear but the angle seems a little wide.  For Atmos most people go with the CDT 5650 or 5800 but you may want to consider the pro / IC line which has an integrated enclosure, they're supposed to sound nice.  
    •   No worries...  I'm just as happy to hang out & visit. 
    • If you have already added at least 1/4" more thickness to the sides of the LaScala bass bin, then you have already braced them where they needed bracing.  That is why Klipsch went to 1" thick MDF for those panels to begin with.  But for aesthetics purposes they had to change all the panels to 1" thickness.   There are OTHER ways of bracing the bass bin side panels than to add thickness to the ENTIRE side panels.  Keep in mind that the resonance issues have nothing to do with the rear area of the side panels...since the joinery there solves that...it has to do with the center of the bass bin side panel from front to rear, and the issue is more severe as you approach the MOUTH of the bass bin....which can be braced from the inside of the panel OR from the OUTSIDE of the panel.  All you are really trying to do is STIFFEN the mouth of the bass bin at its sides...to solve the issue. This can be done in a variety of ways.