Deang

If soldering, it just melts out of the way. If you want to use disconnects, just scrape it off with an exacto knife.

I could be wrong. I never took them out, just going on memory of what it looked like. I’ll edit my post.

Wheels on the bus go round and round... I had that same year in oak. I bought them new. I was disappointed. I had tweeter issues in the left speaker, and squawker issues in the right. The soldering looked horrendous, and I redid quite a few of the joints. The sound seemed disjointed and kind of gritty. Trey Cannon of Klipsch did me a solid and took the point-to-point build in trade for a new pair of the PCB types when they came out. After about a year, I changed out the networks -- and then later everything in the top hat. I still think the Type AA sounds sounds better.

This is the thing to do now, because if we wait on fusion, there will be no future to speak of.

The 33uF version is for the Cornwall. The 47uF version is for the Belle, LaScala, or Klipschorn. Either can be used for the CornScala, it just depends on the midhorn/driver you are using.

Wondering where you get your information?

The only real problem they have is that the cones ring. The harshness that people often complain about is not the horn, but from the cones breaking up. The simple resistor mod goes a long way to fixing that. Still probably some of the best sounding speakers I've heard out of Klipsch.

lol. What a great picture.

Nm.

Good bourbon on the shelf. Sure to improve the sound of any loudspeaker. 🙂

The de-120 will take 40 watts. You don’t need the zeners. If you’re paranoid, put in a polyswitch paralleled with a 200 ohm 10 watt resistor.

The have the same number of components and values. The schematic shown as Rf-7 I, is actually the RC-7.

@mboxler Sure, he can do it that way, but then there will be questions and more questions and ... right now, he has the schematics and layouts for the original design and is good to go. Also, if he ever decides to change drivers and needs more than -12dB, he won’t be able to do it.

The old cans were polyester in oil, but they were film and foil (not metallized). Those no longer exist. I''m pretty sure they are just going to use an axial wound metallized polyester/Mylar. My guess is that they are getting them from Erse (which just so happens to have every Klipsch value ever used). https://www.erseaudio.com/Products/PEx250v

These things are starting to get very old. I stopped doing rebuilds using the original parts when they began showing up with the windings on the T2A's completely off the core. I could hold them up and shake them, and the whole deal would move up and down the core. I would imagine most of them are doing this by now. Just because something still works, doesn't mean it's ideal -- and they do fail -- just ask Carl.