Deang

It's not very likely that any of those parts are end-of-life. I actually don't know how long a dry, axial wound cap lasts. I do know that any epoxy oval shaped just doesn't really sound very good to me. I would always change out the resistors for Mills. It will be up to you to decide what you think about these kinds of things.

People really overthink this stuff. Yowza. Do you guys put this much brain power into buying a new set of tires? Caps are old and end-of-life. But the best you can afford and move on!

Surely you guys can get decent caps and coils down there, right? That would mean the only troublesome part would be the autotransformers. Do I have that right?

I hate that thread. It's convoluted. I don't think there is a single part on the AL that I would reuse. I've never seen an AL that wasn't a dirty rust bucket with some of the worst soldering I've ever seen. Get some clean boards and start over. The AA only has seven parts. Just take your time while you build them and they will turn out nice. As for capacitors, spend as much or as little as you want. AudioCap PPT Thetas are the best value film and tin foil and will produce better sound than any metallized type. Contact Bob Crites at bobcrites@gmail.com and he can supply you with the coils and autotransformers.

Barrel strength tends to have that effect. Careful.

There are a couple of youtube videos where they are being demoed. With good headphones you get a pretty idea of what their signature is like. Tight, punchy, well defined bass. Seems to go deeper than it ought - which makes me wonder if they put a bump in the FR. Mids are clear and open, but you don't get the nice snap of a snare like you do with a good horn system. The very top sounds fine. Anyone that can't get a tweeter right these days needs to go out of business.

There is a pair on Audiogon right now, but with that route, you don't get to try them for a while first. I'm hoping that before I get all of the money together that I do something more sensible - which wouldn't involve audio at all.

Or a labeling error by the factory (factory mark on the wrong tab). Maybe a simple battery test with an AA battery? But yes, make sure they are K-33's.

Yes. I'm saving for the Classics.

or ... "These cable ties were developed by NASA, which through stress induction, create a liquid dielectric barrier between the capacitor and the cable tie."

lol. Good idea. It would also hide any future adhesive issues.

I can almost top the zip tie thing. I've been using the Arizona caps lately. The casing is covered in clear plastic. I had someone tell me that things would "sound more transparent" if I removed the plastic. I was like, "yeah, but what about the plastic that's inside the cap?" I'm surprised no one has come up with audiophile zip ties. That might be a real money maker.

Classy. Any chance you can remove that.

I guess you didn't read the posts in the thread. The capacitors are not mechanically defective. If they were, I'd be the first to want them out (which is why I started the thread). Solen was not "cavalier", but responded immediately with an offer to exchange them. No high temperatures were involved. Everyone please stop with the zip tie thing. Grrr.

If Solen would have said the caps were faulty, I would have done the work myself at no charge, since I warranty my work.