Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community


Heritage Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Deang

  1. I'm only guessing here, but I think those that have tried the 300 thing are running the BMS driver. I thought what they liked was what they were hearing out of the midrange. As for the bass bin, if you look at the raw response, and remove the two large peaks - it's starting its roll off at 300Hz anyways. I don't know for how long PK did this, but I've been told more than once that he ran his bass bins full out with no low pass in the network.
  2. Hi Kevin, That is probably something not worth messing with, and might not be the best idea either. Always try to stay at least a half an octave above the Fc of your horn. Just because you have a driver that can go down the 300, doesn't mean you should.
  3. Yes Maybe The K-55-M reaches 6kHz without relying on the collapsing verticals of the 401 to get there. The K-55-M also has some slightly increased output through parts of its response. Just think of the K-55-M as the ferrite magnet version of the solder lugged version of the K-55-V (AlNiCo).
  4. Big difference between what a tweeter can handle being run at 24dB/octave as opposed to 6dB/octave. The AK-4 has 12 elements in the tweeter leg, so 36dB/octave or more. Older solder lugged K-55-V and K-55-M run strong out to 6kHz.
  5. China tested everyone in Wuhan. They did it again in Qingdao, where they tested 9 million people in 5 days. Here is data for Europe. https://www.ecdc.europa.eu/en/publications-data/covid-19-testing Analysis and models are only as good as the data you start with. I'm in Ohio, with 10 million people -- where half of the population thinks this thing is a joke, won't wear masks - much less go for testing. Since 30-40% are presumed to be asymptomatic, don't you need to test pretty much everyone to know what you are really dealing with? COVID is everywhere yet nowhere. My wife works in a cluster of seven buildings on the other side of Dayton. In just her building, they have had a half dozen cases in the last two weeks. Two have been hospitalized. It's like hitting your number on the roulette wheel -- odds are low -- but you will eventually hit it.
  6. If soldering, it just melts out of the way. If you want to use disconnects, just scrape it off with an exacto knife.
  7. Deang


    I could be wrong. I never took them out, just going on memory of what it looked like. I’ll edit my post.
  8. Deang


    Wheels on the bus go round and round... I had that same year in oak. I bought them new. I was disappointed. I had tweeter issues in the left speaker, and squawker issues in the right. The soldering looked horrendous, and I redid quite a few of the joints. The sound seemed disjointed and kind of gritty. Trey Cannon of Klipsch did me a solid and took the point-to-point build in trade for a new pair of the PCB types when they came out. After about a year, I changed out the networks -- and then later everything in the top hat. I still think the Type AA sounds sounds better.
  9. This is the thing to do now, because if we wait on fusion, there will be no future to speak of.
  10. The 33uF version is for the Cornwall. The 47uF version is for the Belle, LaScala, or Klipschorn. Either can be used for the CornScala, it just depends on the midhorn/driver you are using.
  11. Wondering where you get your information?
  12. The only real problem they have is that the cones ring. The harshness that people often complain about is not the horn, but from the cones breaking up. The simple resistor mod goes a long way to fixing that. Still probably some of the best sounding speakers I've heard out of Klipsch.
  13. Good bourbon on the shelf. Sure to improve the sound of any loudspeaker. 🙂
  14. The de-120 will take 40 watts. You don’t need the zeners. If you’re paranoid, put in a polyswitch paralleled with a 200 ohm 10 watt resistor.
  15. The have the same number of components and values. The schematic shown as Rf-7 I, is actually the RC-7.
  16. @mboxler Sure, he can do it that way, but then there will be questions and more questions and ... right now, he has the schematics and layouts for the original design and is good to go. Also, if he ever decides to change drivers and needs more than -12dB, he won’t be able to do it.
  17. The old cans were polyester in oil, but they were film and foil (not metallized). Those no longer exist. I''m pretty sure they are just going to use an axial wound metallized polyester/Mylar. My guess is that they are getting them from Erse (which just so happens to have every Klipsch value ever used). https://www.erseaudio.com/Products/PEx250v
  18. These things are starting to get very old. I stopped doing rebuilds using the original parts when they began showing up with the windings on the T2A's completely off the core. I could hold them up and shake them, and the whole deal would move up and down the core. I would imagine most of them are doing this by now. Just because something still works, doesn't mean it's ideal -- and they do fail -- just ask Carl.
  19. I did like three or versions of that chart. I haven't seen that one in some time. For the Universal, you will have to reverse polarity for the midrange.
  20. They will just stick some Mylars in there. I wonder what they do if it's a bad autotransformer?
  21. Deang


    This looks real bad. Carl, are you staying? @dtel you guys in the path of this thing?
  22. The harshness that people hear isn't from the tweeter, it's from cone break up. The resistor mod pulls the response down right above the crossover point which gets rid of the ringing. The Classic was a release of the original RF-7, but the crossover boards/physical layout are different. To use the really large capacitors, InVeNtOr flipped the boards. This means the labeling on the terminal cups are the reverse of what they indicate.
  23. Not the jacket, the copper. Hey, makes no difference to me. It’s your system.
  • Create New...