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Everything posted by Deang

  1. Even if you wanted to, they don't come in values high enough. You can go metallized, but then why bother.
  2. Electrolytics might ... Metallized types might ... But for different reasons. But, anything they are going to do they are done doing within 20 hours. Film and foils. No.
  3. You just have to ignore the marketing nonsense.
  4. More like exhausting. I quit reading when people start talking about 400 hours to break-in a capacitor. SQ tracks with type, and quality of build and materials. Want long term reliability? Make sure it's hermetically sealed.
  5. partsconnexion is run by Chris Johnson, co-founder of Sonic Frontiers. They used to make some awesome stuff. Sad story. At any rate, just a giant store front. My experience is the same as Carl's. I finally gave up and just don't bother with them anymore. The Solen film and tin foils are a good value, especially is you live in Canada. And a little secret -- the Mundorf ZN film and foil is actually a rebranded Solen.
  6. Lol. I thought of him last night. Getting cranky is definitely tied to pain. At any rate, the following came to mind: the context was amplifiers. "I can't hear a difference." "I'm not that fortunate." - DJK
  7. I've posted these links many times. Doesn't anyone read them? https://www.sbelectronics.com/products/application-notes/why-specify-filmfoil-capacitors/ https://www.electrocube.com/details/capacitors-in-audio-crossover-networks https://marc.info/?l=basslist&m=101836144300969&w=2
  8. Recycled film with defects in it, poor lead terminations -
  9. Metallized polypropylene is your bang for the buck capacitor - but not without some drawbacks. They're inexpensive for a reason. Film and foil will provide the best sound.
  10. Metallized Polyester. I don't know who makes them. I actually don't think they have large voltage ratings - I think 200Vdc.
  11. Why not email Jeff Glowacki of Soniccraft and ask him what he would put in a horn loaded loudspeaker? Since he designed the Sonicap, he might provide some interesting input. cs@soniccraft.com
  12. Right, so with these specifications changing from "K-33" to "K-33", does it really make sense to get annoyed because someone is using a different driver which is more than in the ballpark and plots out nicely?
  13. I have three sets of numbers. "Drifted a bit" is a funny way of putting it.
  14. You sure that's the right K-33? There are three, and the T/S parameters are different on all three.
  15. We've had this conversaton before, but I can't remember your reasoning as to why the de-10 is "superior". On the same horn, it doesn't measure as well, weighs more, and appears to be too large to act as a drop in replacement. It's also hotter than the de-120, and will need to be attenuated more. Bob and me deal with people who often say, "I just want them to sound the way they did when I bought them". If they hate the Klipsch sound, I send them to ALK. I sometimes recommend going with a different loudspeaker -- should I send them to you for that? 🙂
  16. Tweakers: I got the sound I want. Meter Readers: You ruined your perfectly engineered system - you should have bought an equalizer.
  17. The one piece phase plug K-55 is pretty much out of gas at 4.5kHz. The K-400 puts enough squeeze on the signal to get it to 6kHz. With a better tweeter like the de-120, you can lower the crossover point, and get the K-55 operating in the area it was designed to run. It also unloads some energy off of the K-400, which helps it not go into distress at live listening levels. The downside is the sound becomes a bit tweeter heavy - the tweeter often seems to dominate the sonic signature. Some like it and some don't - it's completely subjective. On paper it makes sense. In practical usage - it's hit or miss. This is in the context of a first order filter, not with the steeper slopes that Roy is using. A better solution is to run the the two piece phase plug version of the K-55 (or A-55-G), and the AA. At least, this is what I prefer.
  18. Right, just the crossover itself. I use the same thing Klipsch used -- except it's not zip cord. @JohnA There's nothing wrong with using the original wire, but after 40 years, some of that insulation is getting a bit brittle. I figure if you're going to redo them, why not start from scratch and just build something nice.
  19. I wasn't upset, you dont have to apologize.
  20. I am not an expert. Please don't call me that. I have some experience building things -- that doesn't make me an expert. At any rate, I use 16 gauge tin annealed stranded copper wire, and tinned buss wire for the negative connections on the barrier strip. https://www.jameco.com/z/3815-100-16-AWG-Solid-Tinned-Copper-Bus-Bar-Wire-100-Feet_2098515.html
  21. I don't know. I've been following your posts for about a year, along with the questions on my Facebook page and emails -- I'm betting you don't do anything.
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