JohnA

We are the last people that would want wireless speakers. Still, there are kits out there. https://www.amazon.com/DYNASTY-PROAUDIO-Amplifier-Selectable-Switching/dp/B08J8CJJTR/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wireless%2Bspeaker%2Bconversion%2Bkit&qid=1685568626&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&th=1 https://thehometheaterdiy.com/make-regular-speakers-wireless/

You need at least 1 watt/channel. Really. Any of them are rated to absorb 100 watts. In the later of the original Heresies, they will probably suffer woofer damage before the tweeter and squawker are hurt. Fear not. Having run mine with 25 to 140 watt amps, a good 25 to 40 watt amp is plenty.

Never. That is the antithesis of everything I want from my audio system. If the recording sucks, play another one. Get the DVD-A version of it.

Still not as big as mine, Marvel.

DO NOT use a 9V battery to test a tweeter. And when testing a tweeter, keep one lead moving so it never sees DC, but gets a series of pulses that cause a scratching sound. Use only a 1.5V battery on tweeters and then, it's best only to test it in lieu of an ohm meter. 1.5V is also plenty to verify the polarity of a woofer. 9 volts across a tweeter is 10 watts, if the battery can supply the current. Many tweeters cannot tolerate 10 watts.

If you have nothing to complain about, you have nothing to do. With such new speakers, there is likely no objective improvement possible. Were they 40 years old, .... we could talk.

I have several K-77s, $75 + shipping from 37343. Assume 4 lbs and a 6" cube for each. I have 2 K-55-Vs, $100 each + shipping. One is a spring terminal and the other is a solder terminal, but it has a rub/ring after having the diaphragm replaced. Assume 6 lbs and an 8" cube for each. These were my back-ups that I'm sure I'll never need, now.

Location? Which tri-state?

I think so. Which crossover do the 1.5s have? That will help determine whether the K-52 has as much output as a K-55-V.

As in the old Type A Klipsch crossover, a 9 kHz theoretical crossover point is needed to protect the tweeter from low frequencies. Don't change it. What is the DCR of the tweeter? What happens if you use a 1.5V battery across its leads, rubbing one lead? Is its output similar to the woofer tested the same way?

My VMPS subwoofers are tightly stuffed with fiberglass that looks like insulation grade fiberglass. It's yellow. https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/avid-thread.116894/ The OEM tweeter description sounds like the tweeter in Marantz Imperial 7s among others. Not sure how to id the OEM CTS woofer, unless Eminence has old CTS data.

The woofer is modelled (or trial and error tested in the old days) for its frequency response with a certain amount of damping material. The material makes the box volume behave as though it is different because it changes its "springiness". As though it is larger, I believe.

Why would you even consider changing the damping material or amount? Fiberglas does not deteriorate. I recommend you replace the original material the factory determined to be correct. Your range of 50% is no guidance at all.

K-77-Ms tend to have more output at the highest frequencies. Some say the K-77s have more detail because of the AlNiCo magnets. I would use the K-77-Ms with Z-brackets unless you are putting them in a sealed or ported cabinet like Heresy or Cornwall.

LOL! Most of that stuff fits in one box, now. But, now I see why they call them shacks. And the retailer's name......