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JohnA

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JohnA last won the day on February 4 2020

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About JohnA

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  1. Looks like flood damage. Save the K-400 and torch the rest.
  2. Klipsch once would sell you original boxes for current production, but I don't think you should expect them to have old model boxes around.
  3. You are showing the voice coil as open? The visible damage would not cause an open voicecoil. However, a needle drop might do both. LOL! *IF* you can find a correct recone, it will fix all your problems.
  4. I want one and I signed up to be notified. I wouldn't have had not someone posted a link above. Y'all have to remember F'book is not universal.
  5. Check the resistance of the woofer alone. Should be the same as the other one. Any K-33 will work. Crites Speakers has woofers built to match early K-33s. There have been small changes over the years. Optimum would be another K-33-J; check ebay.
  6. What a cluster! No. not for $50.
  7. I gotta ask, why do you think fans of ultra high fidelity sound reproduction would know what that sound is? And why you'd demand an answer from those that have no clue?
  8. Those aren't Belle Klipsch, named after Mr Paul's first wife. These are.
  9. I'm not sure you could buy the materials for $27 each. I have a set. I sanded them the finished them with boiled linseed oil. they put my old H700s right where I needed them.
  10. You need 20 to 25 watts/channel. Maybe 50, if your room is Huuuuge. I like Yamaha, Marantz, Parasound, Integra and Acurus
  11. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/full-range-speaker-kits/fostex-bk-16-level-stand-each/
  12. https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-S2B-A-Aluminum-1-3-8-18-TPI-Screw-On-to-2-3-Bolt-H-290-561 https://www.parts-express.com/PRV-Audio-ADM25-50-1-3-8-18-TPI-Driver-to-4-Bolt-2-Horn-Adapter-294-2941
  13. M7 is dark Mahogany. B means a "riser" between the bass horn and HF section. That is the more modern look.
  14. Speaker power ratings at a lot like auto speed ratings. Just because your car will go 300 Km/hr doesn't mean you can or should. Just because a speaker can absorb 400 watts with exploding in flames, doesn't mean you should try, or need the capability. Avoid audible distortion at all times. Turn it down. More important is the sensitivity (dB/watt) as long as you don't force too much power into a speaker rated for less (remember those flames). A 50 watt amp will happily and safely drive a speaker rated for 1000 watts, but just not as loud as it could get. However, overdriving the 50 watt amp (distortion) can cause some speaker parts to overheat and fail, commonly tweeters. Otherwise, there is no need to match any amp to any speaker beyond quality. Certainly, power ratings should not be considered when "matching". It is Quality, Quality, Quality. Buy the speakers you enjoy listening to the most. Buy enough power to get them as loud as you want in your room, without exceeding the speakers' power rating by a large margin (say no more then 2x the speaker rating).
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