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JohnA

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  1. JohnA

    La Scala placement (starting point)

    In my old .room built just for them I liked them better near the corners but pulled out from the back wall about 2 feet/.6m. I thought the balance of the bass was best that way. They were toed-in about 45 deg.
  2. Yeah, the resistor/polyswitch is tweeter protection. You size the poly switch for the current you want to allow. I ended up using the steep low pass on the FH-1 because it has significant output above 1000 Hz with the original Peavey woofer. I would expect similar with a K-33/43 but with MUCH less distortion.
  3. JohnA

    What would you do with these 12"ers?

    Looks like some variation of an E-V EVM-12L. What's the label say? Slot loaded pairs under the floor?
  4. Listen carefully to the speakers before fooling with the crossovers. Though I have long been a proponent of crossover upgrades, I have had to rethink that. Age alone is not enough to determine the need for cap/component replacement. I have a '67 H700 that sounded dull and distant, just awful. New caps fixed it right up. Recently I bought a '68 H700 to pair with it. The '68 sounds just like the '67 with new caps. No changes needed. It appease Klipsch tries(d) to use quality, long lasting parts in its crossovers. Keep the originals and original voicing if possible.
  5. JohnA

    Khorn 2 way with K510?

    A La Scala bass bin or FH-1 with K-33/K-43 will comfortably get up to 500+ Hz and let you use a K-510 HF. You’ll still likely want a subwoofer for some music.
  6. JohnA

    New Belles !!!

    Very easy to change HIEs to AAs. In fact, from memory, you just need to add a cap to raise the squawker cap to 13 uF. And reverse the polarity of the squawker and tweeter.
  7. "Originally envisaged as a center speaker" but never produced as one is not the same as "originally intended as a center channel in a theater". I remember the Paragon. Fascinating speaker system, but always a stand alone stereo set. Would love to have one and the space to use it. Are you regularly Ill-mannered?
  8. First you'll have to curve the drivers in/on the horns. Buy a copy of X-over Pro https://www.parts-express.com/x-over-3-pro-software-cd-rom--500-919 And start playing. I'll give you a copy of my design for a 902-8G/511B on an FH-1 with Peavey 1504-4 woofer for a start. The results were VERY close to the predicted response. I recommend you use the 511B so the diaphragm remains loaded well below the crossover point. The high pass filter has eq for the response bump from about 1 -6k Hz.
  9. All solid state. I have not found that there is any magic in a vacuum. I bought highly acclaimed tube mono blocs. Once I lived with them a while and described their sound, suddenly they were "built to a price point" (what isn't?) and I "shouldn't expect much." In my experience, any good amp, not over driven, will sound good. Tube amps offer colorations for music production that can't be had otherwise. Good SS amps RE-produce whatever they are sent without material change. Just what I'm looking for.
  10. I have a dedicated 30A (inadequate) circuit for my audio gear, but use no power conditioner. At common listening levels, all 3 power amps play for 30+ seconds after power off. I think that is enough power supply that a conditioner is a waste of money.
  11. No. Small horns can't go deep. You know, a La Scala *is* a small bass horn. ;- )
  12. JohnA

    I want to screw........

    Predrill.
  13. JohnA

    Smart upgrades

    Klipsch speakers use so little power outboard amps are pointless for additional power. If you are doing it for sound quality, you should look at your receiver or Pre/Pro first. There is a thread in the forums describing the great positive benefits to the sound of a member's system from testing it with and without a power line conditioner, until he discovered he was only moving the power cord to the TV. There is a research paper on the effects of multiple subwoofers in a room. It has been posted here a few times. The cost/benefit seems to peak at 4 near the middle of each wall. Two midwall, front and rear, is another good point. I suggest you *add* a 15" sub next. You'll get less bass distortion and more even bass throughout the room.
  14. JohnA

    Let's Talk About Bass Ports

    Yes. Marantz Imperial 7s suggested plugging the port in the owners manual. Their graph showed a 4 to 6 bdB attenuation around 60 to 80 Hz and 2 to 3 dB more at 40. When placed in a corner, on stands or the floor, plugging the port made the speaker sound more balanced.
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