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JohnA

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JohnA last won the day on February 4 2020

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  1. Look at the rear labels for all of the pieces and add up the max VA or max watts. Watts = Volts x Amps. So, your xfmr's 600 VA rating is essentially 600 watts (OK, not quite because the voltage sine wave is/can be out of sync with the current wave.) Leave some room for start up in-rush current and turn on one thing at a time. I think you'll be close to max capacity. FYI, fuses will pass 2x their rating for a short time before opening and maybe oversized. They are primarily for fire protection, thus not a good measure of load or capacity.
  2. If you can use balanced cables, why not go buy a pair of XLR mic cables and connect the pre to the power amps properly. Two cables running around the wall for 2 weeks can't be that bad. However, if you use the in-wall speaker wires, use both positive and negative for each power amp and don't use one for a common ground. Don't kludge it up worse with wyes.
  3. Half of original sale price. It is a complete home theater system and these might still be sold on Klipsch.com
  4. I do think 2.1mm (12 American Wire Gauge) wire will be enough. What amps and preamp are you using? Some people once thought long, especially balanced (3 wire microphone cables) and short speaker wires were the ultimate. Can you put your power amps on or behind your La Scala's and run long cables to them? I use 3 pair twisted, then braided CAT 5e cables for speaker wire. They amount to about 2.3mm (10.5 AWG) wire. The insulation and all that braiding results in a low resistance, capacitance and inductance speaker cable. They are about 5 meters long. I could not hear a difference between old 12 AWG Monster cable and my homemade wires. But they look good! I also failed a double-blind test at Klipsch HQ in Indy with similar cables many years ago. Klipsch said their braided CAT 5 was -3 dB at 300 kHz! My bottom line is that when the resistance is low enough and inductance and capacitance are not significant, you have a good speaker cable. Buy a large diameter stranded wire and don't worry.
  5. LOL! I'm sorry I missed Sey's last post. The 4uF cap is correct since the Model H has a K-1000 squawker horn and needs a higher crossover point. I have one of those around somewhere.
  6. I think they are a flawed design, because the size of the baffle limits the largest wavelength they can reproduce. Then, you get into the Blose reflected sound "stuff", stealing focus. Maggie's have a certain sound about them, but bass isn't it. Better to use the rear wave/pressure to augment low bass output.
  7. JohnA

    NC Estate Sale

    Looks like 1980 HBRs, with original boxes. https://www.estatesales.net/NC/Brevard/28712/3948795
  8. Those are pre-1979 Belle Klipsch components. Very sad the cabinets are not there.
  9. JohnA

    Heresy II

    You are better off with an unmolested pair. If you know what you're doing, some upgrades are good and effective. If you upgrade because you read it on the internet, of because a website sell it, you've probably made a mistake.
  10. Sad that B&K is gone. I like to use Reverb for pricing.
  11. Here do you live? Listen to lots of speakers. I like my H IVs and will recommend them. You should find my comments after getting them on the Forums. Of note, the music seems to come out of the face of the H IVs complete and as though it comes from a single point. Be sure the listen to the Forte IVs, too. Before you buy you'll want to talk to Paducah Home Theater.
  12. I have 2. Both are spring terminal versions. One has a new diaphragm, but still has a rub. The tech didn't do it well. The other is fine.
  13. Spotted this PM, at the bowling alley in Hixson.
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