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About JohnA

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    Resistance is Futile.

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  1. The purpose of a speaker cabinet is to support the drivers and in the case of woofers, contain the pressure wave off the rear of the cone to prevent it from cancelling the front wave at low frequencies, long wavelengths technically. Also, the cabinet volume may be tuned with size and/or vents or passive radiators to resonate at particular frequencies to enhance the low bass output of the woofer. This tuning requires an air-tight enclosure. If a solid plank splits/cracks, it will no longer be air-tight. Weight in and if itself is irrelevant to speaker design/performance and should not be sought after. However, to have a stiff enclosure, perhaps with bracing, that is relatively non-resonant, a certain weight is inevitable depending on the material used. JBL makes some speaker cabinets for pro use that are plastic, with neodymium magnets that are surprisingly light. Others are out there, too. http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/SPXProSpeakerCabinets Though I am not much of a fan, MDF has been proven to be an excellent cabinet material, because of its low resonance. It also does not split or warp, though most of it will soften and sag in wet or high humidity conditions. Plywood is about 4 times as strong and stiff as MDF with similar density (weight). The increased stiffness at the same weight means it tends to ring when struck, if the panel is large and unbraced, i.e. the top or sides of a La Scala I. But high grade plywood will not soften, split or warp if sheltered from water.
  2. https://www.crownaudio.com/en/tools/calculators https://www.rapidtables.com/electric/dBW.html +3 dB per doubling of speakers and another +3 dB per doubling of power amp channel IF both channels are playing the same thing, mono, or +6 dB per doubling of channels.
  3. Stereo System upgrade

    My 4 unpowered VMPS subs are all run by outboard power amps (Acurus A250s). Nothing is wrong with that. Multiple subs are more about lower distortion and smooth response, though you will pick up an extra 6 dB peak for each doubling (1 -> 2 = +6, 2 -> 4 = +6 more dB).
  4. What size sub

    Bigger is better, as are more.
  5. Heresy w/SUB

    A great sub will be more than one. Klipsch subs are known for very low distortion. Two R-112Sws or R-115SWs will be a good start.
  6. Stereo System upgrade

    If you built a good subwoofer, you should build another one and place them both near the middle of opposite walls in your room. More woofer area allows less excursion for the same sound level and thus less distortion. More bass sources smooth bass response throughout the room. Subwoofers are the easiest speaker systems to design and build. Can you build another? Or two 12" subs that dig down to at least 30 Hz, in room? Did you expect that answer?
  7. Silver Faced Receiver

    I saw your note and have looked at a few integrateds, including another CA-800 in Nashville, but the issue of bulk comes back up.
  8. Silver Faced Receiver

    As I've said, I'm *sick* of black; I have not found a non-black receiver at any cost in years. The '70s to early '80s were a golden era for discrete component audio designs and sound quality. During those years, sound quality was paramount and solid state designs and technology were at a peak. Forty year old electronics usually require an overhaul, but after the caps are replaced and the controls and tuner section cleaned and aligned, they are as good as ever. I have some nostalgia for the period, too, as it was the time I was out of high school and had summer jobs making money available for audio frivolity. If Yamaha, or others, sold a silver receiver comparable to the A-S501 in the U.S., I'd have it. New is usually better. For the 600 foot cabin this and a pair of KG2s are going in, space will be short, so I want everything in one box and want an FM tuner because there is no internet in the backwoods. The only tuners I've seen for sale in the U.S. are black. Did I mention I DETEST black electronics? I take a flashlight to read the markings on my Pre/Pro. "Vintage" has the advantage of not looking like it is worth stealing from a backwoods cabin.
  9. Elevated Klipsch Models.

    Some people like that. I tend not to, but then, due to space limitations, my La Scalas are sitting on my subwoofers, 23" off the floor. Heresies with slant risers are a good solution, partly because of the highly directional squawker horn.
  10. Replacing Capacitors

    I think it is corrosion that changes the internal resistance. Motor run capacitors used in lots of old Klipsch crossovers weren't that great to begin with, either.
  11. Amps make no sense

    This, damping factor, has always been the most audible difference to me in one amp to another. Other subtle things show up, but not quickly.
  12. I think they are different, like an HII, but I'd have to see a pic.
  13. Crossovers for new DIY speakers

    Wanna learn crossovers? https://www.parts-express.com/x-over-3-pro-software-cd-rom--500-919 Bass design? https://www.parts-express.com/bassbox-lite-software-cd-rom--500-921 I'd look at this tweeter: Available as a kit from Al K or in parts from Faslane Audio and Parts Express.
  14. Cat 5e speaker wire. 11 ga equivalent. If you are having to pull wire, pull one more pair than you need now, for future expansion. Subwoofers in the back of the room are nice to have.
  15. The most obvious things are the crossover caps. They are surely 30 years old and if they haven't been used much have probably deteriorated and gone off spec, especially the ESR (internal resistance). The next thing is their intended use, sound reinforcement. They are voiced for half space outdoors. Indoors, the squawker and tweeter are quite hot. I have a pair I bought for my church. Vocals outside are excellent; music less so, but the balance is much better without room reflections. Indoors, I cross them electronically to a pair of KP-480s at 120 Hz.