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JohnA last won the day on February 4

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  1. KFS Y2K, What you're doing wrong is cluttering up the signal path with a bunch of unnecessary junk. R-51PMs have a power amp. The Magni is a power amp. You can't use both. Save the Magni for your headphones. All you really need is a single audio cable from the computer to the R-51PMs. I doubt you need any EQ, unless you have the test gear to determine how to EQ your speakers flat. Anything above an Atom has more then enough excess processing power to convert digital to analog in the fly.
  2. Here's what I have done. The woofer inductor can be the 2.5 mH Klipsch used and it can be an iron core, but I'd go with 16 ga. The squawker inductor is there to knock down the 9k response return of the K-55-V a few dB. Use a 2 UF tweeter cap; it knocks down a 6k to 8k hump in the tweeter's response. Note that the speaker is still bright with these settings; the woofer running at 93-94 dB, squawker at 95 dB and tweeter at 96 dB.
  3. My H IVs swat H700s and H Is on vocals. They are not as bright/light sounding as H Is but much better balanced and realistic.
  4. Zitan , Where do you live? Soldering at this level is easy and cheap. No crossover redesign is warranted. You are not too likely to hear much difference for less than the value of the speakers. Replace, or have a local electronics shop replace the capacitors with nice film and foil caps. Expect around $80 per speaker for the caps, but $500 per speaker could be spent. A constant impedance network is of no value to solid-state amps. SET, yes, but for almost any others, no. The simple networks in a Heresy I cause minimal phase shift and the components are tough enough to use them. I'd keep them; I've kept mine. John Allen's A-55-G measures better than a K-55-V. Some even think it sounds better. I think I read they were all out of stock until 2021 sometime. Keep your K-55. B&C DE120 based tweeters are smoother and sillier sounding than a K-77-?. They are a real upgrade for your Heresies. To get the most out of it, the horn mouth must be flush with the front of the cabinet. I'm running Fastrac tweeter horns that flush mount and like them a lot. DaveA's latest iteration.of his tweeter horn is fabulously well made, tests well and everybody likes them. They flush mount, too. If your woofers don't rattle or make funny noises, they are good. Keep them. A Klipsch employee told me a Heresy III/IV. woofer, K-28? Would be an upgrade. Better to check all the cabinet joints for dried out glue and leaks than to replace a working woofer.
  5. My heartfelt sympathy for your loss. It is not easy to go on, but we do. We will happily help. As noted, give us a list of the speakers or pics of the tags on the backs. They will have a model name like KB-WO and a serial number like 17W231. One of our members maintains a spreadsheet of selling prices that will be big help.
  6. They did a nice job with the audio system in a Ford Expedition we rented last week. Unlike the Blose system in my last 2 Mazdas.
  7. I'd say go buy it, also. I had a Yamaha CA-800. It was switchable to class A (8 watts). There was a small but noticeable difference in Class A.
  8. Try 1-800-KLIPSCH. Its not listed on the web site anymore but I think it still works.
  9. Yes. The diodes chop off the waveform going to the tweeter at about 2 watts. The result is a harsh, hashy sound that is unpleasant. The original K-77 had to have them when larger SS amps got popular. K-77-Ms need them in pro use and it one of the reasons people hate La Scalas when used in bars. 40 watts is +16 dBW. +105 dB/w/m = 121 dB continuous. That is more than your ears can take.
  10. http://www.woofertester.com/wt2product.htm https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dats-v3-computer-based-speaker-audio-component-test-system--390-807
  11. The only way to tell is to try them. Mostly blarney. Tighter connections with the wall socket is good, less resistance from larger actual contact area. Shielding could be good. Do you live beside a high power radio station? Are the power supplies in your electronics defective? IOW, is there a *reason* to need shielded power cords? My house actually has a separate (isolated?) safety ground bus. Never saw that before. Does yours? Otherwise, I don't think you would benefit much since the neutral is connected to the same ground bus. How large are the conductors in the cords? I wouldn't bother if they weren't 14 ga or heavier, even if they were cheap. The OEM cords are all the units need.
  12. I had a pair of KG2s that sounded a little dull and I recalled them for a minor improvement. I changed the tweeter caps in my 20-y.o. La Scalas to make them match and the improvement was definite. Later, changing the Squawker caps to the same Hovland Musicaps was inaudible. 🐒 I had one '67 and one '68 H700. The '68 was laid-back and distant, calm. Changing the caps woke it up. The '67 sounded good all along, so I never changed its caps. Listen and if they do not sound forward and alive, out in the room, you should probably change the caps to high quality film and foil types. Avoid metalized. That's probably why I'm not that impressed with my KG2s.
  13. Everything you want to know is in the 2-Channel Section. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/161759-klipsch-heritage-codes/
  14. Since a passive radiator moves as a piston, flexibility is not very important. I have used Elmers paper glue, successfully. Use barely enough. Adding reinforcement with a barely big enough piece of cigarette paper or paper towel cannot hurt. Be sure to extend the reinforcement past the end of the year (about 1/4 of the tear length should be enough). Since you say the hole can be closed from the back side and is almost invisible, it is most probable is was penetrated from the outside, not torn from playing loud
  15. The leads to the diodes are soldered to the spade for the tweeter. You can't just remove the spade. You can unbolt one of the diodes with a small wrench, ~3/8", and let it hang. Too easy not to try.
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