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Everything posted by JohnA

  1. No, you turn the volume control Down at the first hint of distress, brittle sound or distortion regardless of the receiver's power output. This applies to ALL speakers, not just Klipsch. Buy all the quality you can stand. A home theater receiver worth having is not cheap. Look at Sony ES, Marantz, better Yamahas, Integra and good Denons. Accessories4less often has good prices on B-stock and refurbs. The power you need depends on your room size. But, because of the inability of home theater receivers to deliver rated power to all channels at once, start you search at 100 watts and higher.
  2. You're at the most difficult and detailed portion of a speaker's design. It takes testing, knowledge and trial and error. Were I you, I'd replace the K-55 with an Altec/Great Plains Audio 902-8*, damp the 511B and lose the tweeter. I'll give you a design I did for the 902/511B that was pretty flat and pulls it down to 104 dB/w/M and crosses at 1 kHz. The low pass is for an FH-1 and won't work with your 904-LF.
  3. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=klipschorn&_pgn=2&_skc=50&rt=nc
  4. Mr. Jim, I almost hate to ask and be bothersome, but now, I'm curious. I bought my La Scalas from a nervous gentleman in Madison, TN that flipped audio gear, it turns out. He worried me to death over the 3-day return period we have. It took me that long to realize they were mismatched, but I felt so blessed I didn't care! One is 28W186 and the other is 29X610 (with K-55-M and Type AL network). The first Klipsch I heard were late '70s Klipschorns, with Belle Klipsch rears in a Quad system (😨). So, I went backward to make them match. Klipsch built me a new Type AA network for the X model and I found a K-55-V driver in one of those obscure pro audio shops that cater to the music industry. What can you tell me about mine?
  5. JohnA


    That sounds like a calibration or connection error.
  6. Check out the Garage sale section below and repost there. It might take a while, but you'll find a set.
  7. Yes, I have seen such a warning and it was real. It was on a Telarc recording of the 1812 Overture. The dynamic range was extreme and the boom from the cannon is capable of plopping your woofer cones onto the floor if you use too much power. Like turntable rumble, ultra low frequencies, that your speakers can't reproduce, can still damage the woofers.
  8. One of mine is 29X610, not quite 1000 units newer than yours. It came with a K-55-M and Type AL crossover. It didn't stay that way as the first squawker I found was a K-55-V, so I went backward. Somewhere between 1981 and X (1982) the transition was made.
  9. JohnA

    Virus Stimulus

    I've got six 1911 pattern pieces. Want something different. But since I'm most comfortable with Condition 1 carry, a CZ came to mind.
  10. JohnA

    Virus Stimulus

    LOL! It's called DWX. Most likely a compact. If I can find one.
  11. JohnA

    Virus Stimulus

    So, whadda ya gunna do with your $1200? I'm thinking something highly un-PC.
  12. Imagine they are flood lights. You can even use a flashlight (oops! torch) against the squawker horn walls to help. Place something absorbent on the walls and floor where the light hits. Curtains (drapes?) or tapestries can do this attractively. There are acoustic panels that work great, but the aesthetics are in the eye of the beholder. You know what to do to the floor. I suspect you have wall reflections causing the sound changes. However, my GF often thinks my TV speakers are on because the sound is so center focused. You can make your own acoustic panels using a wooden frame and duct board, wraped in attractive fabric. https://www.jm.com/en/hvac/duct-board/
  13. Wow! Great story!!!! If the woofers are working, and you'd hear that immediately, leave them alone. Yes, the tweeters can be repaired, easily, and at home if you're handy. Klipsch should have new diaphragm kits and critesspeakers.com does. Start by removing the tweeter leads from the crossover and rub them on an AAA battery. If you hear crackling, the tweeters are good and you need to look elsewhere. Loosen and retighten ALL connections to the crossover and drivers. I, and many here, think you would like a new Type AA network. It's an update of the Type A, but still really similar. Several members here (DeanG), critesspeakers.com and you, if your a little handy, can rebuild and convert your A to an AA. It's easy. Search the forums and f'book (if you use it) for Klipsch AA crossovers. Where do you live these days?
  14. Rather nice job, Robbie! How do they sound? You just may want to keep those. I think you'll want to make sure the cab opening and horn mouth mate up well. I also lined the squawker opening of mine with heavy felt the thickness of the plywood. Love the contrast in colours.
  15. YES! Staying all Klipsch, You'd want K-77-Ms for the best performance. I also favor the DE120 tweeter on tractrix tweeter horns. I am running Dave Harris' Gas tax horns in all my HT speakers. Very silky and smooth/clean, but not OEM Klipsch.
  16. Thanks! I had one and was curious.
  17. Hold on there! Didn't your governor say there were 100,000 cases in OH?!?!
  18. Is the KLF-C7 crossover the same as the Academy? if not, where is the C7 schematic?
  19. Wait! Don't they know they are *essential*!!!!!
  20. Whell. .... Now that we have *that* out of the way. I want to be clear in my statements. In my room, there is no need to plug the ports of my H IVs. I would not want to, nor recommend it; Your Room May Vary. Though, I have seen rooms where my old Imperial 7s did benefit from plugging the port, most particularly, when they were in a corner. I have my H IVs about 1 foot and a half off the wall on either side of a corner, but 6 to 8 feet out of the corner. I regularly check to see that the Sub is not working. I REALLY like a simple 2 channel system like this without complications. These Heresies have just the right dose of "the thing" and you will not miss any music when listening. As I listened to them, in a similar position to the old H-700s, I noticed another wonderful thing. I cannot locate the tweeter and squawker, like I could with the H-700s. Music comes out of a big hole behind the grille fully assembled and speaking to some cortex thing in my brain. They're not La Scalas, but DANG, a man sure could be happy with just a pair of these and some good recordings.
  21. No real difference outside manufacturing tolerances and/or the AlNiCo magnet losing strength over the 40 years since the last one was made. Attached are 4 T-35s/K-77-? that Bob Crites curved. The -M starts falling around 14k vs 12k for the K-77, due to the magnet. K-77-Ms also use T-350 diaphragms with their ribbon leads and higher power rating, 10W music, 50W peak, I think. K-77-M/T350 diaphragms will fit right into old K-77s.
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