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JohnA

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Everything posted by JohnA

  1. K-33s are 4 ohms. 2226s are 8 ohms. You will not damage anything trying it, but the woofer low pass point will be off 1 octave and its output may be less, by 3 dB.
  2. I did something like babadono did for my work bench. If you use plastic boxes, it will look less industrial. I would use 12 gauge wire, minimum. Stranded wire will be more flexible.
  3. Is there only one? SN 193 is so old, I'm unsure of the correct drivers. The EV EVM-15L woofer, is a good woofer, but may not be the best choice for the bass horn. It was still in production a few years ago and can be readily reconed, if needed. The University ID-40 is the midrange, aka Squawker. I would have thought a University SA-HF would have been original. I have one I am not going to use; you can have for a nominal sum, if it is the original driver. Few (none?) of that age had tweeters. Mr. JRH will clear up the fog, in a bit. Klipsch often sold upgrade kits for older K-horns that added a tweeter, a newer squawker and revised crossover. An upgrade to 3-way would be the best for sound, but, #193 has some value of it's own due to its age.
  4. Crites Speakers usually stocks replacement diaphragms, some pre-mounted so the replacement is an easy DIY job. You DO want the later T-350/T-35 diaphragm with ribbon leads for it higher power handling capacity (5 cont/50/100 peak?). I find the DE120 driver on a true tractrix horn to be silky smooth and natural sounding. I like it better than my original K-77-Ms. You should at least try to front mount your K-77s to get them out of the tunnel they fire through.
  5. If you are going with a separate power amp, buy a pre/pro and do it all the way. I'll recommend a high quality AVR. Running Klipsch speakers, you will not push it hard enough to need or justify an outboard power amp. Quality is important and won't be cheap, but just because it is an AVR doesn't make it inferior or unworthy. https://www.audioadvice.com/home-theater/home-theater-components/home-theater-receivers I use my system for 2 channel and HT, with all separates. I use my pre/pro to switch video, too. That is convenient and doesn't degrade the picture. It will make integrating all your inputs into a system that is easy enough others can use it. My lady friend can watch TV when I'm away from home without call me for help. I use a modified Heresy (xover very similar to my La Scalas) as a center. A Heresy IV may be the best center for you. You should look at 2 or more subs. Having gone from 1 to 2 to 4, I'll keep 4 if at all possible. Four (many), reduces cone excursions making the distortion similar to my La Scalas. Spreading them around the room fills in nulls a single sub will suffer.
  6. VDS, I *might* be able to talk my GF into selling her 604-8Gs, rebuilt to new with GPA parts. They will be >$1400 for the pair and there is always a new excuse not to sell, but maybe.
  7. Bob Crites tested both and published curves.
  8. They are kg2s. I have a pair in similar condition I paid $100 for a few years ago.
  9. I had one pair with Type AL xovers. The eq built in them caused a howling resonance in the range of a French horn. My solution was a set of Al Klappenberger crossovers. Type AL-3s will be your best bet. You can convert your Type ALs. There is enough difference in output between a K-55-M and -V that the vaunted Type AA is not a good match. The K-77-M is a good tweeter. As always, there is something better at higher cost. If you want to replace them, try to get a later K-77-F that flush mounts the tweeter mouth, or Z brackets that do the same with your tweeters. Should you decide to go with bespoke tweeters, be sure the horns have properly made exponential or tractrix horns. The tractrix horn curve is a little better. A K-77-? uses an exponential curve. Flush mounting the tweeter eliminates some audible harshness from reflections. Don't do what I did and disassemble the tweeters and reassemble them through the cabinet holes. They might just fall to pieces in your hands! It IS a way to improve the sound.
  10. You should be able to hear a 1 dB difference, but over a wide range, !like the whole tweeter spectrum, 1 dB will sound more like flavor.
  11. LOL! My early '80s La Scalas clearly have the "potential". But, I rarely listen to them that loud and by the time I confirmed it, I had already had the finished and will not munk that up, now. Ill bet most people are like me and don't push them hard enough.
  12. I used a pair with Heresy HIPs and a Peavey FH-1/Altec 511B-902-8B hybrid. they sound good and rescued the Peaveys from playing below 100 Hz where they distorted a lot. Used them at church coffeehouses.
  13. I think you will want to switch those xovers for Type AL-3 (maybe AL-2, should you ever find any). I eventually detested the sound of the ALs in my set that my brother got.
  14. I would start off with a less intense method, like with that soft cotton cloth and lemon oil for wood, or Murphy's Oil Soap. If nothing else works, try the clothes iron. If you do use steel wool, try to find 0000 and use light pressure.
  15. That's why it sounds like an amplifier problem. Will a McIntosh protection system do that?
  16. Probably. You will hear cymbal strikes and shimmer plus tamborines in the tweeter. Very little voices.
  17. Wasn't it, though! I had a midrange Kenwood tuner and integrated. Climbed on the roof of the dorm and installed an antenna and ran the wire in the window. We could listen to WKDF in Nashville from Cookeville. I awoke in the middle of the night to hear 'KDF announce the Skynyrd plane crash! As WKDA-FM, they broadcast in quad, especially after midnight. Fond memories. No idea what happened to the Kenwood gear.
  18. The larger the diaphragm, the lower the theoretical crossover point. Yet, driver specifics control, so saying a 1" tweeter can be crossed lower, is ..... inaccurate. I recommend you read "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook" by Vance Dickason.
  19. Stuffing (foam, fiber fill) adds "give" to the woofer's back air chamber, making the woofer think the chamber is larger than it is. if the chamber is sized for the woofer, adding stuffing will cause a ripple in the response curve at its lower limit (though you may get a few more Hz deeper response). I wouldn't unless you have calculated a need for the stuffing. My older La Scalas do not have stuffing, nor did my FH-1s with original Peavey woofers.
  20. I've heard the RSW-15 and was impressed, but I'd want 2+. Made the lobby scene in The Matrix feel real. Having started with 1, then 2, then 4 VMPS New Larger Subwoofers, More fill the room and reduce distortion. I feed my 4 with Acurus A250 at about 350 watts each. The "Revenge Of The Fallen" movie cost me 2 subs and another A250!
  21. Properly dialed in, subwoofers should not be obvious. It they are, they are likely 10 dB too loud.
  22. A pair of speakers used as a center would suffer bigly from interference and comb filtering.
  23. These are Min-wax red mahogany over a conditioner and finished with water-based polyurethane. The front edges are a 3/4" x 3/4" cherry strip.
  24. Give it a try. A La Scala is, in fact, a high-quality sealed box system. But the excursion needed to produce 20 Hz will cause a lot of distortion if you push it. 14 dB is 25x more power than the unequalized range. A better choice would be a programmable parametric eq. Set it to about +3 at 60 Hz, +6 at 50 Hz, +10 at 40 Hz and cut off hard below 40 Hz. There is not much music below E1, 41.2 Hz. Though a piano goes down to 27.5.
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