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JohnA

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Everything posted by JohnA

  1. JohnA

    T2A Autotrafo

    Which crossover does your H2s have? Type E2? Try this experiment first to see if you like it.
  2. JohnA

    La scala cable replacement

    Stefano, You've never heard me try Italiano. The woofer access panel in on the bottom held on with about 10 screws. As to cables, there are 3 electrical properties cables have: resistance, capacitance and inductance. The shorter the wire the lower each of the properties becomes. If you are replacing the internal wiring, you can easily reduce the resistance, but if the lengths are similar capacitance and inductance will not change much (teflon insulation and braided wires will help with that). 16 gauge wire is 0.0132 ohms/meter 10 gauge wire is 0.00328 ohms/m With 4x the area, and stiffness, 10 ga wire will reduce the internal wiring's resistance by about 0.02 ohms for 2 meters, about the length of each of the woofer wires. Not worth the trouble to me.
  3. JohnA

    Cornwall II vs Chorus II

    Hi Bruce, If you heard Cornwalls in the demo room near the front door, know that that room is bassy, reinforcing the 80 to 100 Hz range of every speaker put in there.
  4. JohnA

    Crites A-55G

    To be accurate, those are John ALLEN (HPS-4000) A-55-Gs. Mister Allen claims to have put a lot of work into a driver that can best a K-55-V/-X
  5. That's pretty uncommon. Mine are not signed. With Ms Ruth's comment, I'd say they were special order.
  6. Not likely original, but probably sounds like a Heresy. What are the SNs of that pair?
  7. JohnA

    What value Capacitor ?

    You can use this to calculate/confirm your crossover design and L-pad. If possible, the driver's actual impedance at the desired crossover frequency should be used. The crossover point should be set above fs and one octave above the horn's cut-off (2x) (and a point where the horizontal dispersion is similar to the driver that plays the next lower frequencies, if you can find that). http://ccs.exl.info/installation/crossovers-installation-tweaking/crossover-calculators/#first If you are replacing a K-77, moving the crossover below the recommended 12 dB/octave at 7k should require at least an 18 dB/oct crossover. Apparently the impedance is such that the original Klipsch 18 dB crossover in many models will work.
  8. JohnA

    First time Klipschorn owner

    LOL! That's M 7 S. It is a darker shade of Mahoghany. That designation was used on Shorthorns and the like in the 50's and on some K-horns in the 70's.
  9. I don't believe Klipsch put a K-55-M in a Heresy of any sort. The change to the Heresy II squawker (K-53, K-52?) began around 1984, perhaps mid-year. Klipsch did not track that change as they did not revise the name until the new cabinet, woofer and tweeter were adopted. Since it is some smoother, a K-55-M might well be a good choice for a squawker driver. Sadly, I read there are no more OEM diaphragms available for it. This is not to say that the K-53 is not also somewhat superior to a K-55-V; I have never seen a comparison. In short, if the Heresy has a Letter Code serial number, it is an HI (with K-55-V); if all numbers and labeled Heresy, it is what *we* on the forum call an H1.5.
  10. Maybe. Mr. Paul writing "Response curves...... indicate a slight improvement in amplitude-frequency-response" and the notation of trying several filter types seems to indicate a desire to do more than a simple 18 db Butterworth. Whether deliberate or a happy coincidence, it is the filter design I prefer. I wish I been able to spend more time with the AL-4 or 5 to see if they were better. They were immediately familiar years ago in Indy, but were not available 2 years ago in Hope at that Pilgrimage. My initial reaction to Al's Universals was "Wow!" They are quite good, especially midrange detail, but eventually the tweeter's output wore me down. I have attributed that to Al's low loss Butterworth filter vs the Type AA. And I admit to a large prejudice, having first heard K-horns and Belles wearing the Type AA crossovers (deduced after owning my La Scalas for a year or 2).
  11. JohnA

    Earphone Advice

    I have several earphones and one set is an inexpensive pair of Klipsch. They were a gift and I can't find a model number. They are plastic, painted metallic red and are ~5 years old. They are clear, voices are outstanding, but bass output is poor, but present and the treble is hot. What are they and how do they compare to current offerings? I have a pair of Grado SR60is I like, but they are pretty bulky and hard to take on an airplane, in particular. I've found some leftover XR8is. Do they sound balanced, or boomy like a juke box (I hate that). I like the description of the X6i having razor flat response, but the reviews online are not that complementary. Since no store allows the audition of in-ear phones, I'm guessing as to what I might like. My budget is under $200. I don't listen to earphones/headphones much, so it's not worth $$$.
  12. JohnA

    La Scalas new to me

    Welcome to the world of Klipsch and the Forum! First thing, clean up everything and check/clean all of the connections to all of the drivers. The intermittent reduced output from one of the drivers is a classic symptom of a loose connection. Listen a while and then we can talk about improvements. There are many with varying effectiveness. If they are running as designed, they will not sound polite, reserved or distant. They will be alive and out in the room. What is the serial number? That tells the year and production number. What is that receiver? It looks vaguely familiar. Where are you in the world? Perhaps you are close to other members. Didn't know this was a test, did you? 😉
  13. LOL! Not really, but a deliberately over simple description. So the real deal it the Type AA tweeter filter is not a smooth Butterworth and creates a sag in the response from about 6k to 9k Hz. That is what removes the response hump in the K-77-*. I believe the design is called a Constant K filter. It uses a simple calculation, but it not used much anymore. PCs and modelling software have taken the work out of filter design.
  14. JohnA

    My 1984 Klipsch Heresy I

    Mk 1 belies your Illinois location! 😉 We informally call those Heresy 1.5s, aka Mk 1.5 because of the changes that were eventually used in the Heresy II. Only when they are 40 years old. *IF* all of your connections are tight (I haven't found any loose ones in mine), then I would replace the capacitors. I described my '67 H700 similarly and a cap replacement cured it. You must have a Type E2 crossover. While the electrolytic cap is not directly in the signal path, *I* would not use one in a crossover. Use good film and foil capacitors like Musicaps, Audiocaps, or similar. There are Russian made oil-filled motor run caps available (on ebay apparently) that many here like. They are very similar to what Klipsch used for years. The 33 uF electrolytic could be replaced with a Solen metalized film cap if the price of the others shocks you.
  15. JohnA

    Sub-woofer placement

    https://community.klipsch.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=149921 This should do it. Don't run wires where you will step on them.
  16. JohnA

    Type AA pics ...

    Crossover PORN!!!! Heh, Heh! 🤣
  17. JohnA

    Dumb question?

    1- Yes, I do it all the time. 2- Yes, but why would you want to? It looks like you will have surplus amps so that biamping might be possible, but I did not find that that Denon had an electronic crossover built-in to facilitate biamping. Again, I ask why would you want to? You will be driving each speaker with 2 to 10 watts. The power amps will be so far below their capability, biamping looks fruitless. Biamping's original purpose was to get more power into a speaker system when amps were too small for large performance halls (i.e. when a Crown DC-300A was a muscle amp). Now that 14,000 watt amps (https://www.crownaudio.com/en/products/i-tech-4x3500hd) are available, biamping, or more, is used as much for time alignment as anything. Complexity for its own sake is always counterproductive.
  18. JohnA

    Peavey FH-1 Cabinets

    Change the woofer!!!! My BW 1504-4s produced more distortion than fundamental below 100 Hz. K-33, K-43, JBL2226H and that Eminence Kappa 15C look like good woofers. I got mine to happily cross at 1k to an Altec 511B/902-8B. .
  19. JohnA

    La Scala filter doubt

    Stephano, That Type AA network could have been paired with AlNiCo tweeters. You'll have to look at the tweeter to be sure. My point was the later ceramic tweeter is a better tweeter. I did not recognize the labels on the caps. I was looking on my phone and that didn't help much, either. I believe Klipsch used those sorts of hold down clamps in the distant past. The black connecting wire is not at all like my 70s and 80s Klipsch.
  20. JohnA

    La Scala filter doubt

    That looks like an early Type AA. Correct for pre-1982 La Scalas. Those are unlikely to have AlNiCo woofers. The ceramic magnet tweeters respond higher and tolerate more power than the AlNiCo K-77s. For home use that means you can safely remove the zener diode tweeter protection and get cleaner sound from the tweeter.
  21. There is a Type AA schematic available in this forum. I will.second the "ain't broke" sentiment. However, if your Khorns are over 30 years old AND sound polite and recessed/reserved, you likely need new caps. I will add a caution, the Type AA network has a deliberately inefficient tweeter section that tames a 105 dB hump in the K-77 tweeter. Al's crossovers have not previously included that ~1 dB loss. The result is a brighter speaker that bothers me. It looks like his Super AA drops the squawker and tweeter 3 dB, leaving that 1 dB imbalance. Though quite small, that 1 dB is very noticeable in my room. YMMV. Replacing just the caps in kind is not a difficult project.
  22. JohnA

    Klipsch la scala serial info

    Yes, very normal, especially after 1982. Another member provided this timeline for the La Scala based on employee and Historian input. The pro versions should be similar and the parts will help you approximate the production date. https://community.klipsch.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=158642
  23. Pull the grilles and use a narrow beam flashlight or laser and see where the center and walls of the squawker horn would strike the walls and ceiling/floor, if sound was light. Place absorbents there. Bass traps in the back corners. You may have to try the bass traps in several locations. A persian rug could be a nice looking absorber.
  24. Damn, I'd be sick if I sold those, too!! I'd have held them for you if you'd just asked. 😈 Try them along that short wall first. If that doesn't work, build a knee wall for the left one and don't look back. Like Coytee, I have some reservations about the sloped ceiling, but only the part above your listening position. If you get annoying reflections off of that surface, diffusers and absorbers may help.
  25. JohnA

    Klipsch la scala serial info

    Unfortunately, the Pro line follows a different numbering scheme from the "home" models. You will have to contact Klipsch to see if they can determine the date. The born on dates of the pro line has been less interesting to the forum, so no one has pursued it. In addition, Klipsch sold (or Leased) the "Klipsch Professional" name and designs to another company that is no longer in business, around 1998 or 2000. If it was made by "Klipsch Professional" there are probably no records available anywhere. You might get an approximate date from the driver date codes. There were MANY (thousands?) of La Scalas produced with K-55-M and K-77-M drivers. Those were produced from 1982 to about 2002-ish when the K-55-X (aka early K-55-V) came back. If you have a composite K-401 squawker horn, that puts the born on date into the 90s sometime, I cannot recall the year. EIA Codes.pdf
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