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About WMcD

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  1. The Internet is your friend. http://captain-foldback.com/Hammond_sub/hammond_schematics.htm
  2. Without knowing too much . . . some microwave ovens have "stirrers" which are fan-shaped devices which spread the waves around the oven cavity. It could be that yours is not working and the energy gets concentrated in the center. I see charring in the photograph. It could be that the intense heat of the food is causing thermal stresses in the ceramic plate and cracking it. It is not that the plate is absorbing the energy.
  3. I must correct myself. The first, at Hope and PWK's house, was February 16, 2001.
  4. PWK used ordinary lamp cord, aka zip cord. The type you can get at a home improvement center. I think he is correct. I bought a small roll of 16 gauge. If you're wiring surrounds you might need quite a bit. Yes, all sellers of special wire, often costly, sing its praises. Some users do too. They report audible differences. I'm a doubting Thomas. I recommend you start with zip cord. Later, if your enthusiasm and pocketbook allow, you can go with specialty wiring. With zip cord you will note that one of the pair has striations on the insulation. This is good to keep track of polarity so the plus (red) terminal on the amp goes to the plus terminal on the speaker. This is important. Just as my own convention I use the striated side as ground (black terminals). The striations remind me of lawn grass, which grows on the ground. I use white zip cord and use red and black nail polish to mark them too. The cheap stuff at Walgreens costs a couple of bucks. This is easier to see in dim light conditions behind the amp. I also use twin banana plugs sometimes on the speaker end. it makes moving and rewiring so much easier. Single bananas can often be used on the amp end. When possible I solder the wire to the bananas. WMcD
  5. It's Fathers' Day. You should let your wife and children that you'd like them to buy you this crossover. Smile. WMcD.
  6. You should look here for a curve of the impedance of the H1. You have to scroll down a bit. This appeared in a Dope from Hope regarding amplifier distortion. The peak a the low end is caused by the mechanical resonance of the box and woofer mass. The high end shows an increased impedance because of the effect of the autotransformer. WMcD
  7. I've heard CW's in a room about like that and they are excellent. There are a few things which come to mind. K-Horns are certainly the best but they can be relatively expense and need good corners and the proper room. Which maybe you don't have. LaScala's are more reasonably priced on the used market but don't have much bass. Overall, the CW have good bass and are economical. I'd suggest you put them in whatever sort of pseudo corner you have and put them up on some sort of riser by about a foot. This is just because if you have a lot of people it is best to get the mid and tweeter in line of sight to the listeners. John A alluded to a center channel. Yes, if you can get a third. The center channel could really address the issue of listeners off to the side of the sweet spot. Maybe you'll have to buy two pair. That would allow a lot of experimentation. WMcD
  8. I looked around the Radio Shack catalog website for your box. There are so many catalogs and they're so long I didn't get very far. OTOH I found page 150 of the 1951 catalog. PWK had stated once that K-Horns were sold through RS. Was he talking about the licensed Brociner or the Hope unit? \
  9. Is 12 dB enough? One recording I found has a 24 dB crest factor. Ravel Orchestrations. Reference Recordings. (Am I looking at the numbers correctly? The difference between average and maximum?) I also found some Telarc recordings with about 20 dB even without cannons or dinosaurs. The software is ocenaudio. The sample and hold meters are interesting. But . . . it seems to me show higher peaks than what the statistics report gives (by a smidge). BTW, I found the error in my back of the envelope calculations. Typical stupid math error. WMcD
  10. There is no reason to do anything more risky than you have to. Just pull the plug and discharge the caps. Nuff said. WMcD
  11. I was a kid on Long Island watching Sea Hunt on TV. Visibility around Long Island was about two feet. Later I learned that Sea Hunt was filmed in Florida's Silver Springs were visibility is almost unlimited. Gee, us kids are getting fooled. Years later my wife pried me out of work for an Apple vacation to Hawaii. We took a shorter non-PADI course. (I don't recommend this, go with PADI and thorough instruction.) The last day took us to Shark Cove. The instructor later said it was named because a shark had helped a young fisherman by directing fish to his net. I thought this was a campfire story for tourists. But later this was confirmed. What? We were swimming in shark infested waters! I'd seen "Jaws" once too often. Years later some good buddies and I snorkeled in St. John and St. Thomas. Wonderful. My conclusion was that a very great amount of interesting stuff is in the first five feet, i.e. snorkeling depth. OTOH, SCUBA is an expensive culture. No, I've not been doing this a long time.
  12. Yes. Any tube needs about 100 volts or more to operate and I'm sure these do too. Maybe these are less but don't take a chance. Big power tubes use several hundred volts btw. I don't see any bleeder resistors on the several power cap and so they should be discharged before you put your fingers, or metal tools, in there. Of course you should unplug the unit first. WMcD
  13. I did some back of the envelope calculations. It looks like the power requirement is based on a 15 dB crest factor and an 8 ohm speaker load. That is pretty close to classic assumption of a 17 dB crest factor (which PWK may have described). Noteworthy is that we’re requested to use our recording having very high dynamics. It is part of the measuring stick in the calculations. An inherent assumption is that the test recording does actually have about 15 dB crest factor and any other source of music we play is comparable, or lower. Overall, a very insightful approach to testing without expensive equipment.