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About WMcD

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  1. Hard to say without more info. I can't find the manual on the Internet. Perhaps you can tell us what graphic formats it will export, if any. Maybe bitmap. They tend to be large. files But you can open them in MS Paint and save as jpg which is compressed. It will reduce file size. The other thing with all Windows systems is to take a screen shot by hitting the keyboard button of "prt sc". That copies the screen image to the internal clipboard. Then you open MS Paint and hit "Paste". Or paste from clipboard. In either case it is helpful to use Paint's resize menu if the image fills more than the screen. And do save as jpg Sorry if you know all this. WMcD
  2. Ridicule me if you will. You're only advancing the day when Skynet takes over. Or the men who serve Skynet. “Once men turned their thinking over to machines in the hope that this would set them free. But that only permitted other men with machines to enslave them.” ― Frank Herbert, Dune
  3. Okay, so there's some app on line. How about using MS Paint to resize. WMcD
  4. K-55X Drivers

    Have you tested the resistance at what is left of the connections? My thought is that the lack of terminals might be obscuring a burned out voice coil. In any event, if there is some problem after you're done soldering, it will be instructive to know there wasn't one before you worked on it. (Even if it might cause some self blame. Smile.) (Edit: In retrospect the question may be insulting -- but I'm suspicious of unexplained damage which interferes with casual testing.) A few years ago I bought a temperature controlled Weller soldering station. It really takes the worry out of soldering. If you have the cash you might consider buying one. BTW: Is the unit really from Klipsch, with a Klipsch trademark on the back? You say it came out of a K-Horn. But I see the Atlas tag. You're calling it a K-55-X but is that true in a strict sense? WMcD
  5. Class-D amps with Klipsch?

    Gee Wizz. 2.8 ohms? Can you give us a link to this, please. I purchased my Forte II thinking they went down to 4 ohms, and trundled them to my office. That's my long story about buying them second hand in the parking lot of Amtrak in Milwaukee. Then got them back to Chicago in amusing circumstances. I went to the Sony flagship store on Michigan Ave (long closed) the next day and found a mini-receiver with shoe-box speakers marked 4 ohms. A good sign. Back at the office I hooked up the Sony to the Forte II and the combination was magnificent. I think the little Sony was Tripath because it has a three second time delay at power-on before connecting to the speakers. Someday I'll open up the receiver to check. Fortunes changed and I sold the Forte II to a forum member. The Sage of the Midwest, Ann Landers, advised: "All generalizations are false, including this one." Still, at least some Class D work well at 4 ohms and sound very good with Klipsch. WMcD
  6. Banana Plug Connection

    I believe that the EU prohibits connections which accept banana plugs. This is related to the fact that European mains connections (i.e. wall socket connections for a.c. power) have the same geometry as banana plugs. Therefore the hole must be blocked for safety reasons. It makes sense that manufacturers don't want to include instructions on how to thwart safety devices. WMcD
  7. JBL 2446H vs Selenium D4400ti

    This sort of data requires some care in interpretation. Different horns cause different effects. The top-most graphs show response on the respective horns and the horns typically cause their own ripples. Further, they can goose up on axis response. This may be arguably accurate but the extra effects of the horns mask the actual performance of the driver(s). We don't have data on the effects of the horns. Here each manufacturer has used its own horn. Fair enough,but they are likely not identical in effects. The only way to remove the effect of the horn is to run the test on a plane wave tube. The data show that only for the JBL. Plane wave tube response is a very accurate and is the only way give a fair measure of the driver itself. Another issue is whether the curve has been altered by, typically, 1/3 octave smoothing. Actually, the more ragged the curve, the less likely you're looking at smoothing. We can't tell but the graphs of the two both look pretty ragged to me at least in some ranges. No smoothing seems likely in these graphs. The most salient reason for differences in apparent "smoothness" (visually) is in the left axis of the two graphs and not some other unknowns mentioned above. If I'm reading this correctly: The major divisions in the left graph is 10 dB. The major divisions in the right graph is 20 dB. No unknowns in this issue. It does mean that ripples in the JBL (left) are scaled up as compared to the rippless in the Selenium on the right. I'll guess that if presented with the same "scale" of dB they'd be pretty close to each other. WMcD
  8. I've seen video of Amish using a Diesel air compressor (no spark) and then using that to drive pneumatic tools including saws and drills. WMcD
  9. I recommend getting in touch with Bob Crites. He is very highly respected. Not to talk for him but I believe you can ship your unit(s) to him and he will installs them. I consider myself pretty adept but I'd still let him do the job. Also. If you're running a pair, it would probably be best to have him replace both. Under the rules of the forum he can not advertise or solicit business. But we can recommend him. WMcD http://www.critesspeakers.com/k-55v_diaphragm_replacement.html
  10. Do you know about this website? http://www.alliedcatalogs.com/ WMcD
  11. Thanks DizR. I should not have jumped to that conclusion. There is some information on EV on Wikipedia but I don't find anything informative about University Sound on the Internet. It does seem safe to say that Mark IV acquired University, based on the spec sheet. The address given is the same as for EV. Probably they were sister corporations for a time. My thought is that maybe Mark IV used the University name to market EV drivers and take EV out of that line of business to the extent it still existed. WMcD
  12. Birch LaScala's

    For our new friend in England. https://www.mylands.com/pure-tung-oil-4823 But I'd think you have the equivalent of Home Depot or Loews -- big box home improvement stores with paint departments. Often what is sold as Tung oil in the USA (and maybe elsewhere) actually has additives making it a bit harder, dry faster, and easier to apply. There is "pure tung oil" and "Tung Oil Finish." The latter usually has additives. (Just to be informed on matters.) Pure Tung leaves a finish which is a bit rubbery but it is a classic. If you lay it on too thick it will alligator or crinkle. Let me suggest you talk with Mylands to determine what they recommend, particularly if you want to avoid change in color of the raw birch. I am a big fan of wipe on finishes, such as Tung. There are many wipe on finishes which are called varnish or oil. I see Mylands has Danish Oil. My favorite in Minwax Wipe On Poly. I believe in new technology over the old. Others will disagree. I always give the same advice. Clean the wood with no-scratch Scotch-Brite or 220 or 320 sandpaper on a block. Remove any dust with a vacuum, tack rag, Swiffer, or batting with a cloth. Wipe on a coat with a patch of cloth (I've used paper towel) and expect the bare wood to drink it up like a sponge. But wipe it off enough to avoid drips and sags. Let dry overnight and scuff with a non-scratch Scotch-Brite or 320 sand paper on a block. Clean dust. Wipe on another coat. Let dry over night. Repeat. About three coats will do a good job. But depending the product used it might take five applications. You can get a marvelous result by investing a half-hour an evening for five days. But you can't get similar results in several hours in a single evening. If you have doubts, first work on the bottom hatch. Happy Guy Fawkes Day. "A penny for the Guy." WMcD
  13. See a section I started recently. I'm not aware of PWK mentioning a peak. In the Edgar interview he mentioned extended range. OTOH there is a Dope from Hope where the K-55 mid is shown as having improved high end response when the two-piece phase plug was added. There seems to be some debate on whether all K-55's have a peak at about 7 kHz. The DfH graph shows it in the "before" (push-button terminals) and "after" (solder terminals), though in the latter it has moved up in freq. The Vacuum Tube Valley article describes a tank filter designed by Max Potter which eliminates the peak which is described as making the horn sound "shouty".
  14. Questions come up occasionally regarding the K-77. It is a rebranded EV T-35 which passed strict Klipsch QC. According to an article, PWK selected the EV after EV adopted the Avedon phase plug. It was first used in a K-Horn in October 1959. University eventually acquired EV and published a spec sheet which is more elaborate than what EV published. My read is that horizontal coverage is greater when the unit is oriented with the long axis vertical -- i.e. that the patterns shown were obtained with the unit oriented as shown in the picture. Per the timeline for K-Horns: The first three-way Klipschorn incorporated a Jensen RP203 tweeter. This tweeter came from the famous Jensen G-610 Triaxial 15" driver and required considerable negotiations with Jensen. It was not until mid-1952 that all Klipschorns were three-way. A two-way Klipschorn with response to 12Khz was generally adequate for program material up to that time. The University MID-T- 4401 replaced the Jensen unit as the tweeter of choice later in 1951. WMcD T35A University Spec Sheet.pdf T35A EV Spec Sheet.pdf Avedon Design Patent on T35.pdf Early T35.pdf EV Avedon T35.pdf