Dave MacKay

Wish I had some really insightful suggestions, but I don't. Whenever I've approached a firm about room treatments they've simply tried to sell me as much soft panels and traps as will fit, and as thick as I could manage. There's been no real insight from any of the (just two) firms I dealt with. My 2 cents worth: - certainly get rid of the mirror - add curtains to the windows, ideally floor to ceiling and the heavier the better - cover the hard surfaces (the sidetable tops) that the speakers are on, even with a bit of fabric The open spaces above the walls may be challenging. WAF will likely play a big factor in determining what is acceptable. Good luck.

When I moved to an active crossover and tri-amped my La Scalas I was concerned that an amplifier might malfunction and send DC to the drivers. To prevent the tweeters and squawkers from being damaged if that were to happen, I added a 13 uF capacitor (Fc = 1500 Hz) to the positive line of the tweeter, and a 100 uF capacitor (Fc = 100 Hz) to the positive line of the squawker. I sized the caps to have an Fc 2 octaves below the crossover points that I planned to use (400 Hz and 6000 Hz).

I’m not familiar with QED79 cable. 14 gauge copper wire has a resistance of approximately 2.525 ohms per 1000’ (305m). 12 AWG would be about 1.6 ohms over 1000’. If it’s copper, your 8m of 14 gauge cable will contribute an additional 1/15 (0.066) ohm of resistance. That is insignificant.

Today I learned that my Heresy Is are actually Heresy 1.5s. I put together this table to distinguish between the Heresy I, Heresy 1.5, and Heresy II: Heresy I Heresy 1.5 Heresy II Cabinet construction Baltic Birch Baltic Birch MDF Rear panel Removable back panel Removable back panel Fixed back panel Driver mounting Drivers are mounted on the rear of the mortarboard Drivers are mounted on the rear of the mortarboard Drivers are mounted in rabbets on the front of the mortarboard Network type E (or C for early models) E-2 E-2 Network mounting on board on board on PCB on terminal cup Tweeter K-77/cast zinc lens K-77/cast zinc lens K-76/plastic lens Mid-range K-55/700 K-55/700 or K53/701 K-53/701 Woofer K-22 K-22 or K-24 K-24

I’m also in Canada (just outside Toronto). +1 on everything @geoff. said. I tried 5 different networks from Klipsch, Cr*tes, and (user-built) ALK with my La Scalas. I wasn’t entirely satisfied with any of them. I ended up using a MiniDSP Flex Eight DSP and tri-amping my speakers (with inexpensive Aiyima A07 amps). Given the cost of new networks (and even replacement capacitors), going active is not much of a premium. Although it takes some work to configure the DSP, the results are outstanding. I’ll never go back to passive networks. Even Klipsch is moving to active networks with the latest Heritage iterations.

Where in Canada?

I have an R-N803. I hadn’t noticed one side getting hotter than the other.

Yeah, a real Leonardo. Sheesh!

Following with interest.

I’d suggest taking this discussion to the “Klipsch Korner” on Audiokarma. You’ll find several ideas there. This forum discourages/prohibits discussion of modifications.

Can you post a photo showing the corrosion? Also, what are you wanting an upgrade to provide?

Yes. I repaired the damage to the cabinets with wood filler and bonds, then laminated 3/8” baltic birch to the top, bottom, and sides. I then applied a ribbon Sapele veneer and used Rubio Monocoat “Pure” as the finish.

Yes, I still have them. They bring me pleasure every time I listen. Here’s a before photo and an after photo.

Run and buy them. They’re a steal. I paid CAD $2800 nearly 3 years ago for a pair. I repaired and refinished the cabinets myself, which was an enjoyable project.

Do you know what wattage the subs are rated for, and how many ohms they’re spec’d for? From that it would be possible the calculate a maximum voltage level. If you have a graph showing impedance versus frequency that would allow an even more precise calculation.