jjptkd

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About jjptkd

  • Rank
    Not Sure
  • Birthday 08/28/76

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Snohomish, WA
  • My System
    Sunfire & Klipsch

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  1. Looking to sell some of this stuff?
  2. Absolutely love the veneer, great job! I'm planning a DIY custom Chorus cabinet build, will have to look over your build thread before I start, thanks for sharing!
  3. I'd guess looking at the smaller magnet on the vifa tweeters that they are much lower sensitivity which is probably why you never noticed it before. Bad capacitors in the crossovers also tend to dull down the highs a bit so I'd say that is probably where most of the difference comes from, those two things and not the titanium drivers although it should be easy enough to change them back to stock and see for yourself. In my experiences the titanium tweeters are actually smoother than the stock drivers, at least at higher volumes. Glad you finally found the right tweeters for your speakers!
  4. Speakers with rear passives or ports need more space from the rear wall but not the Chorus 1's. I'd move them in from the side walls though 12-18 inches as it should improve the width of soundstage. Nice score by the way, I've been searching for a pair close to me for well over a year now without any luck.
  5. In my experience, equipment matching, source material and room acoustics play huge roles in whether speakers sound "bright" or not. Also speaker placement, simply pointing the speakers straight forward or toeing them in or out just a few inches can change things quite a bit. After setting up systems for numerous people and for myself in a few locations over the years I can say that the same exact equipment can sound dramatically different depending on the room.
  6. I've used a Chorus II crossovers in a poly-fil stuffed sealed box with all of those drivers and the sound (to me) improved quite a bit. Better bass but still need a sub. I've also ran the 250 (k-42) woofer in a forte II cabinet and liked the change. The forte II uses the same tweeter and mid driver as the 250, just a different mid horn. The original kp-250 has the tweeter dialed back so far you can barely hear it, I assume to protect it at high volumes. They used really nice, quality drivers in the 250 but they are tuned for max output via the crossover, best thing to do for home use is modify or switch out the crossovers completely in my opinion.
  7. I would think it would take a tremendous amount of force to bend a woofer basket, chances are the woofer was on its way out to begin with and just finally gave up or perhaps you just didn't notice the one rubbing before somehow? As stated above these pro speakers are often rode hard and put away wet pretty much their entire lives. Good news is the woofers are still available new are reasonably cheap to replace. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eminence-Delta-Pro-12A-12-Cast-Frame-Driver-/321486589967?hash=item4ada18100f:g:lGoAAOSwVFlT9KOZ
  8. The mid horn for the CW-III is smaller than the one that was used in the CW-II, the easiest thing would be to find a pair of original CW-II horns and attach the CW-III drivers to them, everything else should just bolt right up. New motorboard seems like a lot of work to reduce the mid horn size and move the woofer up a little. Either way, good luck!
  9. Congrats, nice score! I agree the KLF series are some of the greats from Klipsch's past, sound quality and performance is right up there with the extended Heritage line up. As far as "updates" go I'm a firm believer in replacing old parts on 20+ year old stereo equipment / speakers to ensure you're getting not only the best sound quality but many years of hopefully trouble free use. IMO, in a perfect world one would buy brand new, second best option is restored used gear. Actually though in many cases restored older equipment will outperform new stuff by a large margin. The 20's would likely be just fine as is so updates could easily be put off until you get the rest of your system worked out and budget allows. In the mean time, enjoy your new speakers!
  10. Right on! How do they sound? Can you post a picture with the grills off?
  11. Oh I gotcha, thought it was the same listing. If they truly are brand new never used $1200 isn't out of the ball park in my opinion but less money is always good. MSRP for the 7 II's is $3200. B stock is $1800. I'd say if you could get them for $1000 you did good, assuming of course they are in fact new.
  12. If you look at the print in the ad on the right side it says $800 for the pair
  13. Sub likely works just fine and the damage, while any at all is irritating could have been significantly worse. If you plan on keeping this sub for the long term it may be more hassle and time consuming than its worth to send it back and hope the next one doesn't show up in worse condition or completely destroyed. If it were me I'd file a claim as suggested above and ask for a partial refund to cover the damage and go from there. In the mean time plug it in and enjoy! PS after taking plenty of pictures for the claim of course.
  14. I read in a different Cornwall thread that the k-52h mid driver (same as the k-57) is 2-3db hotter than the k-55 drivers which explains why you had to lower the mid by an extra 2db. I found this out myself when measuring and comparing the stock mids in the forte II to the new A55g mid driver. Here's a link to the thread and the quote: This is the response that I got from Steve Phillips at Klipsch "Well, My suggestion would be no, you could not use the B-3 with the K-55-V. There spl differences between the 55-V and 57-K, 57 is about 2 to 3 dB higher I do not have specs on them, but the network differences are easy to notice. Not sure if you have the B-3, but I will send it along. Caps and tap points are different. You may be able to just change the tap points and the mid level be correct. I would suggest that it may not cause any problems using the network, just may not sound "right."