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  1. For Locomotive Breath I never paid that close attention but now I'll never "unhear" it. Looks like others report it alright: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/979988? and in the Steven Wilson 5.1 surround mix: https://www.quadraphonicquad.com/forums/threads/jethro-tull-aqualung-blu-ray-audio.15133/page-2 Here's a brief "fair use" excerpt of just the left rear channel of the SW 5.1 remix of Locomotive Breath where I first hear the "distortion" I think we're talking about. The bass line is very propulsive and on the beat but at about 13 seconds into the excerpt goes from a relatively clean bass tone to a fuzzy, buzzy more distorted one. Intentional effect after the distorted guitar? https://drive.google.com/file/d/10TKL-E2NataqKcUf_D34AZK8DkQTZ1QL/view?usp=sharing
  2. there's a budding audiofool right there at the window. Play some bird songs. Or maybe jazz like...(wait for it)...Donald Byrd. Kinda how I felt as a poor college student looking in the window of the local hifi shop at Khorns!
  3. Looking good Ron! No doubt it sounds entirely different than the no cabinet version with the back waves of the woofers enclosed. What did you do to absorb that back wave? Line the cabinet with something? As far as your partner not liking the large protruding black horn, how about an automotive finish in her favorite color? Might be easier than trying to get a complementary faux veneer never mind a matching one.
  4. thanks for clarifying that Chris. Sounds like my FH-1s might be good to try with an AMT-1 double-stack
  5. Hmmm, I'm surprised the Peavey has the narrowing polars you describe since it doesn't have the flat baffle in between the two mouths.
  6. As far as I'm concerned you've got the point of this thread completely Rick! Have to admit I don't get yet what you're doing with the "tablesaw gymnastics" but I appreciate that you're trying to evolve the design beyond Chris' initial build and paying close attention to fit and vibration control. Keep the pics coming!
  7. Just ordered a 3/4" BB 5x5 sheet cut in half from Makerstock for $60 and $15 shipping to my home. It was a bit difficult to place the order as their automated shipping calculator kept saying that the 60x30 or 30x30 pieces I was choosing couldn't be shipped to my address but C.S. Amy helped me out. Will report how that works out...
  8. Hmmm, got me wondering. The K-402 horns are delivered by Klipsch in several arrangements without the mouth attached to anything and in at least one case fully attached and in a box (KPT-305). Are there significant differences in sound quality due to resonances for unattached mouths? What is it you are beginning to hear exactly? It is an appealing idea to my logical mind that the horn would resonate coloring the sound left undamped/not very stiff or rigid and mouth unattached, but, what seems logical ain't necessarily so! and...even if this could be proved to be the case the question remains at what level of magnitude is it happening - in other words is it audible? One thing I know in my following of ChrisA over the last years is that measurements with a calibrated UMIC-1 and REW and the subsequent iterative dialing in of my speakers based on the K-402 makes a huge audible improvement! So, clearly adjustments based on careful measurement do work. We can correlate sound which the mic/software measure with what we hear. I wonder if the UMIC-1/REW combo could measure any resonances of the type postulated? I propose this test. Tell me if you think it valid. Hypothesis: The K-402 horn playing midrange and high frequency sound/music with mouth unattached resonates so as to color the sound/music in an audible way. (note that this test will be confined to midrange and high frequencies so that it may be carried out on a K-402/CD combination prior to any MEH mods.) Setup 1: A third generation (thinner) K-402 with TAD-4002 CD will be mounted on its Klipsch stand (attached to mouth at 2 bottom holes only) and placed on top of a Jubilee bass cabinet in a corner of my living room with the bottom of the horn at height of the bass bin - 40 inches. My calibrated UMIC-1 will be mounted on a tripod with mic capsule at 45 degree angle and the tip at height of 54 inches - the middle of the CD at a distance of 3 feet from the horn mouth. Plentiful thick fuzzy absorbent material will be placed on the floor between the horn and the mic. REW sweeps will then be recorded from 400 - 20k Hz going back and forth several times with ChrisA (if he's willing) to get representative measurements of this combination. Perhaps varying the sweep volume in an attempt to excite measureable resonances in the horn - (not the room.) Setup2: The very same K-402 and TAD-4002 samples mounted in a KPT-305 box (securing the full mouth flange at all 12 factory drilled mounting points) Keeping other variables of measurement as constant as possible (mic position, dampening placed on floor in front of horn between horn and mic) the same set of sweeps will be recorded. Analysis: The recorded sweeps will be compared looking for differences possibly due to horn resonances.
  9. Of course it's not important whether it's "noticeable" or not visually but whether the mount surface and the horn surface have a gap between them that resonates / vibrates at certain frequencies.
  10. I see what you did there! HaHa😄 so you must have to lay on the silicone pretty thick too on the woofer mounts just to mate the port holes cuts in the mdf to the cuts in the horn wall not too mention not wanting to create a resonating cavity between mount and horn wall.
  11. Thanks Ron. Yes, I see looking more closely at your pics that you sanded down the stiffening/strengthening ribs, 2 on each wider side and 1 on each woofer mounting side completely. Not concerned about loss of strength there? Also I measured one of my horns and an Eminence woofer. The curve in the horn begins on both wider and narrower sides 12" from the input flange - before 12: they are straight flat sides. Clearly your stiffening #3 boards made out of mdf and your woofer mounts are flat yet extend into the curved area of the horn for the 15" woofer. So again I ask, what about the curve in the horn? A flat board cannot lay flat on that curve. Are you trying to account for that or???
  12. Ron how did you mount those larger “#3” panels to the horn? Permanently with glue I think you said but what glue and what about the curve in the horn there?
  13. what is that countersunk screw holding onto? Yes, the older horns are heavier/thicker, I have both but wouldn't feel good about countersinking screws in either case - too thin/brittle.
  14. Sorry Chris what are you showing with these pictures? I also was wondering how to deal with fasteners through the thin walls of the horn. I’m currently leaning towards Ron’s method of gluing stiffening boards to the other 2 surfaces then screwing the woofer mounting boards to those. This is appealing as a potentially much stiffer surrounding “box” arrangement and doesn’t require fasteners/cutting the horn except of course for the ports. Thoughts?
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