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gsgleason

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  1. I'd recommend some chemical stripper and brash brush to get the old paint out of the pores. I'm doing something similar with my KG4 I picked up recently. Previous owner painted them white.
  2. I'm refurbishing some KG4s I picked up. I was testing the resistance of each drover with my multimeter, and one of them is 9.1 ohms whereas the other three are 7.1 ohms. This seems odd. Should I be concerned?
  3. Hello! I just picked up some KG4s that I'm refurbishing. I've read a lot of different views on the polyswitches. My understanding is that the old version of the KG4 had no polyswitch, but had ferrofluid tweeters. Mine is the newer design that has no ferrofluid and has the polyswitch. I like the idea of keeping the protection in place and thought it would make sense to replace them. The old polyswitches still measure .5 ohm which is correct. The new ones I ordered (TE Connectivity Raychem RXEF050) from parts express, however, both measure .8 ohm, which is a 60% variation. So, should I leave the old ones in? Should I find a better replacement that is in spec? What are your thoughts?
  4. @CrankysoldermeisterThe old links are all broken after the site change. Do you have the KG4 schematic still?
  5. Hi. I'm looking to sell my RF5s and RC3-ii. They're all in very good condition. RF5 has some broken grill pegs and a couple scratches in the finish, but nothing bad. I'm looking for $500 for the three, which is as low as I'm willing to go at this time. Local pickup preferred. If you want it shipped, you'll have to arrange a courier to pick them up and handle packaging, etc. https://photos.app.goo.gl/baT7zJ2i6QvGsJXF7
  6. Selling my extra set of RF5 in Cherry. They're a bit rough, had to disassemble and clean them when I picked them up second hand as they were stored in a garage. Tweeters have creases in them. Former owner had sprayed cleaner on the front, and one has drop marks on the cerametallic and black face, but they work fine. Several broken gill pegs. $400 local pickup in Denver, CO area. https://photos.app.goo.gl/baT7zJ2i6QvGsJXF7
  7. @mustang_flht Really the point was just to see if new caps fixed the issue without dropping $100, which it did. It seems that people will endlessly debate capacitors around here, so instead of worrying about all that, I just got something that was a) good enough, and b) available, to get the speakers functioning to the point where I could see if I wanted to keep them. Unfortunately, the problem I have now is that when I switch from the cornwalls to the RF5s, (which I've had and loved for a while), the sudden change makes them sound thin and harsh, as if they're missing an entire spectrum of sounds. Seems the 3 way design is superior (probably no surprise there). My issue right now is the cornwall lows seem to have some reverberation to them unlike the RF5 which sound much tighter to me. And they're monsters. Honestly way too big for my space. My current plan is to sell the cornwalls and wait for a deal on a smaller heritage speaker.
  8. @KT88 It's just a different sound. I can't say for sure if it's better or worse. I still can't find a source for those Kemet poly caps. =(
  9. Thanks for all the help, everyone. I never expected so much attention given to a new member such as myself. Just did the other crossover and got it installed. The other pair of caps measured exactly the same at 2.2 and 4.0, so that's awesome. Instead of soldering the cap leads directly to the wires like I usually see, I copied an idea I found when looking at tons of pictures of DIY crossover upgrades and mounted some 12 AWG bare copper to the board and soldered the wires low and the caps high. This way if I want to replace the caps at some point it's a lot easier. They sound good now. I have them connected to my Yamaha AS701 amp along with my old speakers, some cherry RF-5s. I've been doing some listening and some A-B testing (literally switching between A and B speakers on the amp). There is just so much more sound with the cornwalls. The treble is smoother and less in your face compared to the RF5, and having an actual midrange 'squawker' really adds so much to the mix. Female vocals are less brash with the cornwalls, which I noticed listening to Norah Jones and Taylor swift. Now that I know the caps were the issue, I can either just enjoy these as they are, or look into higher end caps and try to figure out what the sonic differences actually would be. Now I kind of want to play with the caps in my RF5s. I am sure @Crankysoldermeister would love to talk about that.
  10. @KT88Initially I tested with the new caps on the problematic crossover along with the stock crossover on the other speaker. Comparatively it was more bright with a lot more mids, but I think it's not a fair comparison with the old caps.
  11. Hello everyone. I have an update. I received the cross caps today and just did updated the problematic crossover. The issue is fixed. I'm going to do the other tomorrow and then do some listening. I don't know if it's my imagination, but the speaker with the updated network seems less bassy, but looking at the schematic that shouldn't be possible. It could absolutely just be the room and whatnot. It's a bit brighter than the one with the original but still working network. The 2.2 measures right at 2.2 on my multimeter, and the 3.9 measures at 4. Thanks for your help. I'll report back later.
  12. @RandyH Those are similar but not the same. If you compare it to the klipsch one the hex part is as long as the smooth round part. Fortunately, I contacted an ebay seller who sells klipsch crossovers with the back plate attached, and he has some broken/bad crossovers that he might be able to sell me for cheaper. 😃
  13. Okay, yes they're replaceable since I was able to remove it, but it's not clear where to get OEM replacements. I'm currently look at whole crossovers on ebay.
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