MrT58

Cant get pics to come over from phone, also don't have a pair of chorus on hand Ran the numbers from the spec sheet and they are right around 6.5-6.6 cu ft. Just not sure if the chorus being taller and narrower than the -301 is a factor. Some things I've read say yeah, some say no. Thanks all,

I've been digging around and trying to see what's a good length to port a pair of -301's, and see numbers from 6-12 inches. I know these are a chorus (essentially) and see a lot of posts about porting them, but the cab sizes are not the same and I'm not sure how that would affect length of the tube. Any thoughts?

what the what?

FWIW, I run a set of Heresy 1.5's and also a pair of KP-301's. To this point, the sources have been: NAD C328 (50 WPC, class D) May be 3-4 years old Cambridge Audio (100 WPC class D) about 3 years old Onkyo TS-SR805 (130 WPC not sure of class frankly) mebbe 10-12 years old Dayton audio DTA2-1BT2 (50 WPC class D) 3 years old NAD 2200 (150 WPC class AB) at least 35 years old They all sound ok at low levels, but the 2200 just sounds better- I swear it sounds like the amp is just loafing until I hit the point where I cannot stand to be in the room. Given the efficiency numbers of the speakers esp. the -301's, 50 WPC "should" be more than enough to run me out, and they get loud but are not fun to listen to- they just sound like they're being pushed. It's like a small turbo 4 cylinder running hard vs a big V8 loafing just over idle. I suffer hearing loss above 10 Khz, and am blessed with a nice case of tinnitus so I am not a great authority to be sure, but I know what I like and class D doesn't do it for me. Before anyone goes there, yes, I know these are not apples to apples so feel free to to toss out everything I say.

Thats easy its gonna be bloody hot again! Dunno about Austin but west of DFW is no joke

Speakers are like jello- there's always room.

I'm not worried in the least about this being legit, a company that's been around this long doesn't stay in business by doing shady stuff. Just was wondering. Thanks for clearing it up.

Curious, are there actual ticket numbers sent out? I got a thank you email for the donation but nothing else.

hey for a a set of LS signed, worth a c-note to try.

Big fan of the Howard orange oil polish- I have a pair of 84 era Kg4's and a pair of 82 era Heresy's, both had signs of being used. I got some 0000 steel wool and used that to smooth the bumps and scratches. I went very light because I know it's just veneer, wiped down with a microfiber and then a good coat of the oil, let it sit for 10 minutes and buffed it out by hand. Wow- the smell is just a bonus too.

not sure what this means? I may not be stating this right. to troubleshoot the crossover I connected a wire from the HF - input straight to a small little full range. (acoustimass cube laying around). The other wire was connected to the test speaker, and I went point to point from that wire touching all th points I could Its a crummy diagram but this is what i found, green circles mean I had speaker output if it was placed there, red circles mean no output. Does that make sense?

Update- looks like a bad cap was the issue. I had some 2.0 caps from a crossover rebuild kit I got from JEM audio for another pair of speakers, so I put them in and it has output now. Sound is improved but- depending on the tracks played it seems to be a bit of crackle at lower volumes that go away at higher levels- go figure? wonder is 1. Bad diaphragms? 2. Ferrofluid- is it in there? can it dry out? Switched amps btw since this started (issue was same with either amp used), now running a NAD 1300/2600 pre-amp-amp stack- it's quite powerful at 150 wpc rms and lots of current capacity. musically it is just loafing at regular listening levels.

at the first connection point there is signal output, at the other end of the cap nothing.

Going with the T18 build-- I've been looking at your thread quite a bit and will use it a lot- thanks! Been side tracked with an amp search for my KP-301's that I got resolved last week..

Welp- may have spoken too soon here. Last night I checked and found that there is no output from the tweeter at all... opend it up, recheked and got 8.2 ohms on tweeter. Found a free tone generator online and set up a 5000 hz tone, got nothing- bypassed the network and went straight to tweeter- yep, its working fine. took the crossover off, brought it in, cleaned all the contacts with cleaner and brass brush- no change. made a jumper wire and went point to point, at the stage where it goes to the first 2.uF cap, it has output at the solder joint, none on the other side; hmmmm ok. Checked capacitance and it shows 2.01 uF. ???? pulled out the soldering iron, re-flowed all the soldered points, no change. Kept playing around and it just comes back to the 2.0 cap set, I have output from the tweeter if I touch the side coming from the terminal block, none on the other side of the cap. Sure seems like the cap has gone bad but it reads 2.01 uF, which should mean its working? Stumped. of course no local shops that carry caps so its parts express I guess, but that is days aways and no sure answer. Any suggestions?