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  • Location
    Illinois: The land of Taxes!
  • Interests
    Wood working
    Keeping my kids alive!
  • My System
    2.2 Music System: Mains: Klipsch RF-7II Cherry Subs: DIY Dayton Audio Reference HF 15" subs (X2) Powered by Pioneer Elite and Crown K1

    Makeshift Home Theater: RF-82II's, RC-7, RF-62II surrounds powered by Rotel amps and Outlaw Audio 976 processor fed by Dell computer running Linux and an Oppo player

    Dinning room: Dynaudio Audience 122 speakers fed by an Emotiva XPA amp and Emotiva USP-1 preamp running an Audio-Technica AT-LP120 turntable and Dell laptop

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Iteachstem's Achievements

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  1. I liked my 6's for computer speakers at first, but they have a hiss that was too audible being that close! (Plus the sub out has noise!) I would suggest other speakers... if you're not opposed to buying a nice used set, you have a lot of great options in the $1,300 price range.
  2. Thanks. I don't really like the look of shiny wood when it comes to speaker finishes. There are some exceptions, of course, but I usually like the wood to look natural.
  3. You could cut a piece to fit at the bottom of the cabinets while you have them open. If not, I wouldn't worry about it.
  4. Nope! Unless you are planning on running thousands of watts to them.... but I'm pretty sure you know what would happen in that case. Most often durring "normal" listening levels, we only use several watts of power, so no need for larger wire. The main reason people change the wire inside is if they have everything apart anyway, and just want to make it look nicer.... but who really spends a lot of time looking at the insides of their speakers? Or, the other reason is that they think they will hear a difference using larger, more expensive wire. Those are usually the same people that spend thousands of dollars on pucks to keep their very expensive speaker wires off of the ground.
  5. Two 18" subs paired with one 15" 2 way per side is perfect. Sell the rest or use it elsewhere. The subs cab be tucked under work benches, etc. to save space. 80hz crossover max, anything higher than that is never a good thing in my experience. If you don't plan to crank it, I would set the x-over point even a tad lower on the subs with a high roll-off slope. As long as you keep the very low stuff out of the mains, (below 60hz) you should be good to go. Back in college I had a very respectable DJ set up in the basement for our parties. I ran two DIY 18" EV subs per side with a 24db slope at 30hz high pass and an 12db or 18db crossover point at around 70-80hz low pass. This kept the 18's from flying out of the cabinets when I had a little too much liquid motivation! I powered them with Crown Macrotech 2400's. I paired the subs with DIY coaxial mains with a 15" woofer and a 1" concentrically mounted driver. These were powered by a Carvin FET 1000 and FET 450. I had the 15's crossed over at 80hz 12db slope on the low end and something around 2.5kz on the high end/
  6. I saw these on accessories4 less if anyone is in the market. It says you have to buy 3.... so I'm guessing it's the last 3 remaining? https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/klip-ki362bsma2/klipsch-ki-362-b-sma-ii-each-commerical-15-3-way-trapezoidal-high-output-loudspeaker/1.html
  7. I don't usually mess around with the volume of the dampening materiel that much. Klipsch is pretty good about including sufficient material. If anything, I add just a tiny bit if they didn't have at least 3 sides covered (One side wall, the top or bottom and the back) There is damping material that you can buy, usually at astronomical cost, but I'm guessing you won't get a good return on your investment like you will by updating the crossovers. If you do a lot of woodworking, try throwing in a brace or two connecting the side walls.
  8. The cones are hard to damage with just gentle cleaning. (Poly cones and rubber surrounds) I have always just misted a little "SPARKLE" window cleaner on a microfiber rag and just gently wiped them down.
  9. Hello, Might I suggest separates? The only reason is that instead of changing out receivers ever so often if you want the latest audio formats, you can just change out your processor. All you need is a decent multi channel amp or two. I'm not one to chase the latest formats, but I did have the change to pick up a 9.2 processor for under $500. I recently went from an outlaw audio 976 (awesome audio processor, but a known remote volume issue!) to an Onkyo DHC 80.3. You can usually find them as people are dumping them for the next batch of processors with ridiculous amounts of surround channels. I am happy with the unit so far ( about a year of use on it)
  10. Nice job! I'm a big fan of washing the speaker grills. I am finishing up a refinish on a set of KG4's and I'm always amazed at how much dirt I get out when I wash them. I put them in the tub and use laundry detergent and a gentle scrub brush and give them a good wash and rinse. The grill frames are plastic, so you don't have to worry about anything warping. You can always tinker around with adding side to side bracing inside, but I've never heard any real difference in the actual sound of the speaker, only when you tap on the cabinet with your knuckle.
  11. This is my living room, and as you can see, a lot of the wood floor is covered!
  12. Hello, Just to throw in another option for you to consider: Vinyl plank flooring with a plush area rug! If you are worried about floor flexing/moisture/bugs/etc. over the garage, vinyl plank flooring is awesome. You can lay down a plastic moisture barrier and do the floor yourself. I did it in 1/3 of my basement and it's super easy and looks great, not like the vinyl of the past. I wish I would have used it on my main floor, as I used 3/4 cherry flooring and, as beautiful as it is, it was expensive and almost 75% of it is covered with an area rug and other furniture. Here are the pics from my basement (I would recommend a less cheesy area rug... this was an old thin rug that now servers as bedroom duty in one of the basement bedrooms):
  13. I would wait, the R line is pretty cheap sounding, their RP line is much better. If you absolutely must buy one of the two at the moment, then I would go with the RF-82 II's over the R-820F. I haven't hear them side by side, but I've owned several RF-82's and they are not bad once you set them up and get them EQ'd properly. I was not impressed with their R lines after hearing a couple of them recently. Overall, I would look for different speakers for what your intended use is... depending on your budget, there may be better options for used speakers out there.
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