albert
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Posts posted by albert
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On 1/31/2017 at 2:08 PM, CECAA850 said:
Then you're in the wrong forum
I think perhaps you don't quite under the concept and purpose of a forum. A forums purpose isn't to be wrong it's a place where people can discuss and exchange ideas and possibly help others to address what ever issues they may be having.
I'll probably eventually upgrade, however currently I'm looking forward to using the audio equipment that currently available for me to use and experiment with. I also found a broken Klipsch subwoofer that I'm looking forward to repair. If you want to keep upgrading your equipment the more power to you. Today's society doesn't produce products on the same venue as in the past when many house hold consumer items were manufactured to last 20, 30+ years. We currently live in a society that creates, designs and sell products base on planned obsolescence. I prefer not to have to support planned, actually engineered obsolescence and try to make due with what I have.
Some products and equipment a consumer is forced to replaced, because it's designed to fail. I believe upgrading is something that's possibly programmed into consumers. Where your mind is being influenced to make one think that an upgrade is necessary and imminent.
I suppose the more money I have available then the more likely I'll upgrade to better quality equipment, however what and who actually defines quality isn't always apparent. No two people think about and look at things exactly the same way, what may be an upgrade improvement for one person may not be for another.
Go ahead and upgrade, just how often may be another matter. Once a day, week, month a year, every 1, 2, 3, 5, 10+ years?
Anyway I'm tired of discussing this and want to get on with using whatever equipment I currently have.
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14 minutes ago, IbizaFlame said:
It has nothing to do with that. The AVR is not capable of powering the sub. The most power I've seen packed into an AVR was 910 watts, that would barely power my RSW-10.
Well, like i said I haven't had a chance to operate the Denon or read through it's user's manual.
It's mainly going to used with a PC and DVD player. I don't plan on connecting other audio equipment to it and not going to get trapped into constantly upgrading audio equipment, similar to PC equipment which I've been upgrading since 1981, of which I probably have over a mil invested in both time and money.
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57 minutes ago, IbizaFlame said:
Oh dear, where to begin. Let's start at the top...
The "round connector" is a pre-out. It delivers a line-level output to an outboard amplifier. It does not carry high-current required of a passive subwoofer. What receiver is this supposedly on, and how does it know whether or not the line should be hot? How does it power the line hot if it's even able to?
Assuming it's capable of driving an outboard passive sub, what specs does it specify that lead you to believe that the output is the same all channels driven?
Again I ask...what AVR do you have that has the option for a passive or powered sub that uses a pre-out? I only know of AVR's that use positive-negative 2-conductor posts for a passive.
AVR-1612 I've only scanned through the use manual. It was found used on eBay, haven't yet received and become familiar with it. I'm more familiar with analog receivers. I've been using various types of audio equipment since the 50's, but haven't needed to get into digital. I've programmed and wrote code for various digital devices. I know pretty much how the programmers and the type of low level code their using to program various type of devices digitally. The programmers manufactures hire often borrow sub-routines and code that's already been written for various types of control chips.
I haven't had a chance to look at the receiver and read more thoroughly through it's user manual. I'd be better off finding an actual service manual to understand how it operates in more specific detail.
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36 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:
What is the model # of your receiver?
I found it on eBay and it hasn't been delivered yet. It's a Denon AVR-1612. Picked it up for $72.00 (included shipping and tax)
I didn't look for a higher wattage receiver because I was looking for something to be installed into a RV. I also found a pair of Klipsch SB-1, 8 ohm 75 watt (500 peak) bookshelf speakers for it. Most RVs unless has many speakers don't normally require a high amp receiver driving large high wattage speakers.
My last audio system I owned a number of years ago used an analog 300 watt Pioneer receiver with large floor speakers. I used it to record and play audio from a Teac with reel to reel. I''m starting to become more familiar with digital audio equipment, but it's sort of becomes boring sifting through all the specifications and reading about various types of audio equipment from audio related forums.
What I use to do to learn about various types of electronics is either buy and try it out or repair it. When repairing, you often learn more about equipment you might not become aware of when using and operating. I don't do much in the way of repairing any more however. I did find a Klipsch Sub 10 subwoofer at a low price. It won't turn on or produce sound, I'm thinking about picking up and trying to repair.
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On 1/30/2017 at 11:38 AM, CECAA850 said:
Not exactly. It doesn't need an additional amplifier. It uses the amp that powers your speakers. Any passive speaker needs some sort of amplification.
My Denon receiver has a separate round connector for a subwoofer that can be set for a passive or self powered subwoofer. However their are no specs for a max. wattage passive subwoofer. The Denon receiver is capable to drive up to 75 watt 8 ohm speakers and up to 120 watt 6 ohm speakers. There are no max. output specifications for driving a passive subwoofer, but I suspect a subwoofer has the same limitations as the speakers when connector to the subwoofer or speaker outputs, unless a receiver has some sort of subwoofer driver, which the original rec. for the Theatre system possibly could have had. The orig KG receiver was designed to drive from 50 to 100 watt speakers depending on the version (1.2 - 5.2).
Lower base tones a subwoofer output uses much more wattage than a normal speaker, potentially more wattage than all your speakers combined.
This subwoofer is 100 watts continuous and 500 watts peak. I think may depend on whether your receiver is capable of driving a passive subwoofer of certain wattages as well as the type of sounds that are being reproduced.
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It appears the subwoofer you have may be a passive 8 inch 100 (FS) continuous watts and 500 peak (rms).
For a small room such as a bedroom, RV, etc. 8 inch "should" work ok, however generally min. subwoofer rating is 250 watts continuous (FS) and 400 - 500 watts peak (RMS).
Lower bass tones output of a subwoofer normally uses more power than your other speakers, possibly require more power than the rest of the speakers combined. Which is one reason why sub-woofers are often non-passive. I.e. have their own amp to drive the subwoofer.
Take a look at this KG SW series brochures which has some speaker and a subwoofer specifications.
The brochure states something about their KG SW subwoofer uses two 8 inch drivers and is passive, and does not required to be powered. Subwoofers often have their own built-in power amp as many receivers don't have enough output wattage to drive low base tones produced by a subwoofer.
http://images.klipsch.com/Brochure_920500_Kg_point_2_series_635164772691700000.pdf
A KG SW subwoofer from eBay shows it has two sets of inputs, apparently one for each driver. Plus a switch for low and high output.
SUB-10 Fuse size
in Subwoofers
Posted
Hello,
I have a SUB-10 with missing fuse. The VAC input rating is 2.0 amps. I tried installing an automotive 2.0 amp fuse but it's too large (length and diameter).
Does anyone might know the fuse type and size fuse used for the SUB-10 and whether it's a fast or slow blow fuse?
I measure the diameter to be approx. 5 mm.