Texas Pete

actually said "very well respected"! Yep, Deang helped me out with some great advice. I'm real green and need all the help I can get!. Plan is to eventually go with the Arizona Blue caps on Dean's recommendation and what I've read. Will parallel the 3uF cap using a 2 &1 cap so spec numbers match. Seems like a safe rookie move with a little practice. Will use helping hand, toothless copper heat sink clips, some Kester 245 (suitable for a rookie?), . Can't say I've removed much solder from old connections before and still undecided if I should use a little solder sucker I have or practice with the braid / transfer method. Keeping it simple by retaining the original wiring and not messing with the old solder connections, Wondering if I should re-orient one of the transformers by 90 degrees (couldn't hurt?)? The caps in there now are old, am not getting much punch from a fairly powerful amp, seems like a good time to get this minor refurb done, tighten some screws, and get new gaskets for the horns. Pretty hopped up at what I'll hear. Hoping for a bit more clarity / detail and a bit more pep in their step like what I remembered from 20+ yrs. ago.Maybe it's the ears that've changed. It'll be fun at the least. Appreciate the help! PS: if you like the idea of a Hammond organ and drums duel check out some Amendola Vs. Blades, pretty good stuff!. By the by, San Antonio has a terrific jazz station I'm pretty sure is available for streaming going by the call letters KRTU (iTrinity University, krtu.trinity.edu), and another "Americana, alternative" streaming station KSYM, (KSYM.org) another college station that is pretty refreshing (like the every Sunday 9-noon block of Beatles music playing right now!).

Hello all, First of all, you are all my betters when it comes to technical knowledge. I'm as green behind the ears as one can get. That having been said, I am a fortunate owner of a pair of 1983 Cornwalls (CWL, consecutive SN's, B-2 network, K-77-M, K-51-V, K-33E,) since I bought them from a pawn shop while attending school way back in '87 or '88. I don't know much but I do know this, take advice from those that do so I am turning to this learned community of Klipsch audio enthusiasts. I've finally got my low budget system (Sony TA-F700ES, same pawn shop deal) in working order after a very long time and the original crossovers are now 36 yrs. old. I'd like to get them back to snuff. Unfortunately, at one point they spent 2 full years in storage in a non temperature controlled unit in El Paso, TX where it's dry and hot but then desert cold in the winter time. I've perused the web a lot over the last couple of months trying to get a leg up on knowledge about my speakers and how to approach maintaining them. They do seem to be in working order as I believe all the drivers are working. Cost, unfortunately, is my most considerable factor but am willing and will be able to do the soldering to put money into parts. I'm entertaining the idea of simply sending my crossovers to Bob Crites for an upgrade on the capacitors where he uses, I believe exclusively, Sonicaps for the squawker and tweeter. My thinking is that Mr. Crites must have worked on an enormous amount of Klipsch specific equipment and he has many very satisfied customers. But from my readings on the web, I've become a bit concerned with going with the Sonicaps as a bit far from the capacitors that PWK used, that they might be a bit too bright for the horns for lack of a better term. I sent an email to a very well respected builder of Klipsch networks (I truly wish that I could afford his builds) where I asked his advice on caps and he was kind enough to share some of his expertise with me. I do not expect a builder of crossovers to tell me how to build my own network as that is how the man makes part of his living, completely understood and absolutely reasonable. So, I have a technical question that I thought I might pose to the general community on this forum. Arizona Blue Cactus capacitors were recommended to me for the mid/high replacement caps. From what I gather the original B-2 network uses a 2uF for the tweeter and a 3uF for the squawker. I found the Blue in 2uF/200VDC but the closest to the 3 is a 3.3uF/200VDC. My question is, what will replacing the 3.0 with the 3.3 "do" if I use it without changing anything but the caps? Will it change a crossover point? Should I simply place a 2uF and a 1uF in parallel to get to the 3.0 original spec? It would cost me more but is it a safer rather than sorry way to go about the replacements? So, I could send my crossover boards to Bob Crites where I am sure he will use matching caps and check the transformers, inductors (coils?) for a very reasonable $120 after shipping, or I could attempt the caps refurb myself using the Arizona Blue 2.0 & 3.3 for approx. $180 (woofer cap from another vendor ) before shipping or use the Arizona Blue 2.0 & 2.0/1.0 in parallel for approx. $60 more before shipping. Me? I’m 58, hearing rolls off between 12,500 – 13,000 KHz, played trumpet since age of 10, listen intently to good music (just like you!). Any advice or criticism is welcome, hope to hear from y’all! Thanks in advance!