ngen33r

BE CAREFUL NOT ALL 660038RA BOARDS USE THESE COMPONENTS.

Where are you located? I do have a scrap bin that may have one. You just pay the shipping. It's worthless to me.

You can't. Either rewind it yourself or trash the amp. In servicing 100's of these I have only seen 1 that failed.

I am but I have a very long waiting list.

I haven't found one yet.

Here is what I have. It is not complete or updated. VERSION IS UNKNOWN DO NOT ASSUME RB. Looks like C6 needs to be able to handle 200V. Double check this. 660045-1.pdf

Digikey has the switches.

Cleveland, OH They can be repaired, but depends on the problem and what you feel they are worth. I am swamped and not taking anything new until I can catch up.

Look up the data sheet for the IC. I believe 50V will work for those. The ceramic caps are almost never bad. Usually just a diode and / or the IC.

I never measure anything on the PDC. I check the voltages on the other side of the transformer. Make sure you get ~90V at the large filter cap. ~5V at the mosfets at 0 volume and you can check the vregs both in and out. In, I believe is ~35V. You can also check the supply for the bash board also around 35V and check that the BASH is getting 12V at the power pin.

The large mains? 200V 1000uF

I will check if I have one tonight.

i am alive, just been very busy with a contracted job. I plan to get back to making videos now that I am done with that. It is confirmed that there are 2 versions of the PDC and some parts will not match my schematic. I will post that info. Since it has been verified. Looks good otherwise.

You tore out one of the thru-holes on the PDC. That should be repaired. You are also missing a gate drive resistor and there is a good chance the DIAC is blown. The ICL should not matter much between 4A and 5A.

#3

Could be a bad bypass cap inside the amp. It should not have any high voltage leakage to the inputs.

It is a hack, because it masks the problem. It does not correct the problem. Plus that fan just circulates the hot air inside so it is not all that effective. The correct repair is to remote mount the control circuit and get it out of that that power supply that is packed too tight. But this is off topic for this thread.

I never added fans to any repair. That is a hack and not the proper way to do it. I assume you have a ProMedia 5.1?

I have posted this before

Definitely more dedicated to this than I was. But now I have a solid reference for future videos!!!!! This might help with some of the pin labels. Not sure if they are the same so please verify.