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ngen33r

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  1. Buzz almost always means BAD CAPS. Replace the 6 smaller Carli caps and all the electrolytics. Blown FETS mean gate resistors need to be checked and also the control PCB.
  2. The BASH board MUST be installed. The mosfets will gate FULL ON and blow if it does not have control.
  3. I am going to try to answer a whole bunch of questions in 1 post. I am back from a vacation so I have a lot of catching up to do. I will update this post tonight with the values. Make sure all bad glue is removed and continue to replace all the CAPS. If this does not work, the PWM IC will need to be replaced. Please post in the RSW thread. A full recap might be needed or the PWM IC failed.
  4. You always have to recap with the resistor.
  5. I am swamped with repairs for now. I have a huge waiting list and summer is busy as hell for me. I do offer amp swaps on 3bay when I have the time to get a few snuck in. Life ruins my hobby.
  6. These amps have signal tracking. The power supplies vary output voltage based on the level of the audio signal. Class H, I believe. 8V is the no signal standby voltage on DC+ You cannot use a variac with these supplies, so eliminate that from the equation. Also if those caps were in backwards. Throw them out and replace them.
  7. NTE6412 IS A DIAC NOT A ZENER DO NOT USE A ZENER!!!! THERE ARE ALSO 2 VERSIONS OF THIS BOARD THAT DIFFER IN VALUES FOR DIFFERENT SYSTEMS. PLEASE VERIFY BEFORE REPLACING ANY COMPONENTS.
  8. I have new PCB's for that part if yours cannot be repaired.
  9. Bash board is the next step once the primary side is stable. Might as well recap the whole board too. Never know whats under them until you pull them.
  10. Cleveland. I have a massive waiting list but I do have some trade-ins listed on eBay.
  11. BE CAREFUL NOT ALL 660038RA BOARDS USE THESE COMPONENTS.
  12. Where are you located? I do have a scrap bin that may have one. You just pay the shipping. It's worthless to me.
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