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ngen33r

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About ngen33r

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  1. SUB-12 PLATE Y9103700738 This was a pretty typical repair. The glue cancer took this one out. Fets, NTC, PDC and caps.
  2. RPW-10 PLATE A506220506 FINALLY, something different. This failure was not one I have seen before. C31 appears to have prematurely evacuated and caused all sorts of issues. Z2 was toasted, Q5 evaporated and R51 failed. The BASH board was taken out as well with a blown diode, transistor and the IC. The IC's are a pain in the *** to replace because of the glue or epoxy used to try and hide the UC3842 chip. The board did have some damage to the copper plane under the cap, probably from the electrolyte. This is a fairly easy spot to repair. Best guess, Q5 failed and took out the bash board and caused Z2 to fail. R51 then failed from heat due to the current draw. When the bash board stops working the voltage on C31 goes over 100V, which it is only rated for and that would cause the leakage. Normal voltage is around 90V. This is why on later revisions this cap was upgraded to a 160V version. It is still OK to use a 100V cap here, as long as the amp is working properly. Go 160V if you want to play it safe. As usual, glue removal and Q5 upgrade with a full recap.
  3. RPW-10 PLATE SI-00129 This plate is a trade in repair. I am trying to clean up my parts box that is overflowing, so I am going to start punching these out so I can get more organized. Typical repairs on this one. TH3 exploded, fets were shorted, PDC failed. Full recap and Q5 upgrade completes this one. The thru holes for the fets had damage from an attempted repair, so I had to freaking fix those. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A VACUUM DESOLDERING TOOL CUT THE DAMN LEADS AND SAVE THE THRU HOLES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  4. I have to say, nice repair. I would not have thought to go old school and do point to point. For personal use, why not as long as it works.
  5. I have received some messages about the control board, so I will share this with everyone. This has all of the unmarked component values on the control board.
  6. Thinking about this more, that might not be a zener. Typically a zener is not placed across an LDO like that I am guessing that is a protection diode. https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MBR0540T1-D.PDF
  7. I can try, but it will be like a blind man throwing darts.
  8. I would recommend removing parts from board. Clean good, put tape on back of the board and fill hole with epoxy. I will send the pictures in a message. Failure of BASH board causes the resistors to burn like that and damage the board.
  9. The techs there have cross referenced me parts that were not correct and have caused hundreds in extra damage. I will never make that mistake again even if it was bad luck. Do some homework and use the available resources https://www.sphere.bc.ca/download/smd-codebook.pdf http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/b4 B4 BZX399C2V4 Phi I SOD323 2.4V 0.3W zener B4 SOD-123F BZT52H-C2V7 NXP Zener diode I would start with that. Keep in mind that I have never had to replace one of those diodes EVER!!! Putting 5V to the output leg of the VREG and ground to the plate should power on the LCD and confirm that diode to be good.
  10. I didn't know they made an RPW-10D. I know they made RW-10 and RW-12D subs. When I see that issue on them it typically requires a recap, replacing SMT diodes and the SMT VREG. About 60% of the time the digital volume IC is fried when the VREG goes. Those are not fun to solder in. If it is an RW series, please post in that blog. I want these threads to stay on topic.
  11. That board is not worth fixing. I have several of those in my graveyard. Toss it and replace the amp. You would have to do epoxy board repairs, add new copper planes, rebuild the bash board, recap the entire board, replace the outputs and pots at a minimum. Scrap it and get a "good condition" broken amp that hasn't almost caught on fire.
  12. Sounds like the amp needs a recap and possible some other service.
  13. Well it is time for new control boards. Some of these 660045-1 boards are too far gone to repair. Here is my prototype that I am ordering to try out. I rolled my own layout on the board to reduce traces going under parts. More to come when boards arrive.
  14. So I did a little research and there are 2 different component values for these boards. If the board has C1 C2 472 capacitors the resistor values are 1.1K 1% BROWN BROWN BLACK BROWN BROWN for R2 R3 R5 R6. If the C1 C2 capacitors are 332 the resistor values are 750R PURPLE GREEN BLACK BLACK BROWN for R2 R3 R5 R6. The RPW-10 that I have on the shelf uses the 1.1K resistors on the PDC. All of the SUB-10 PDC boards that I have use the 1.1K resistors and all of the SUB-12 PDC boards use the 750R. My testing board is made from the guts of a SUB-12 and it powers on no problems with either board, that doesn't mean that it is supposed to be that way.
  15. The equipment is an investment and can always be used for different projects. So you didn't waste your money, especially on a Hakko. The BASH boards are usually good, Maybe 1 in 50 I have to replace the IC. That board is a BUCK regulator controller. It takes the output of the transformer and varies the voltage based on the demand of the amp. These amps are Class H which is Class AB with a tracking power supply to gain efficiency. If you have ~5V on the 2 resistors that feed the mosfets the BASH board is good. The squealing is most likely from the main transformer or from the other inductor. The switching frequency is what causes that noise and I have no idea what would cause that without looking at the board. I still think that the PDC has some issues. I have an RPW in my to be fixed box, if I have time this weekend I will pull out the supply and measure the values of the resistors on the PDC.
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