ngen33r
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Posts posted by ngen33r
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23 hours ago, pcharm129 said:
😩 Very sad to hear that. But thank you for the info!
Where are you located? I do have a scrap bin that may have one. You just pay the shipping. It's worthless to me.
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On 5/28/2021 at 12:22 AM, pcharm129 said:
Hi. Can anyone tell me where i can get a replacement transformer for an RPW-10 (Indigo 500175 Rev 0, for Indigo board# 600142 REV 3)?
You can't. Either rewind it yourself or trash the amp. In servicing 100's of these I have only seen 1 that failed. -
12 hours ago, vpolish@aol.com said:
Are you still repairing the RT10 subwoofer amps. Mine failed last week, i have removed it and it seems to exhibit many of the issues shown in your post. Hate to discard the subwoofer, hope you can help. Vince
I am but I have a very long waiting list.
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On 5/17/2021 at 11:45 AM, centaurojz said:
Hi Klipsch community
Newby here, wondering if anyone has the Service Manual (schematic) for my subwoofer Sub 10 or SUB10S.
Thanks.
I haven't found one yet.
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Here is what I have. It is not complete or updated. VERSION IS UNKNOWN DO NOT ASSUME RB. Looks like C6 needs to be able to handle 200V. Double check this.
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On 5/3/2021 at 1:51 PM, Su2i said:
Th switches are smashed for loudness, auto on, polarity
Is there a way to replace these or buy a new board.
Thanks
Suzi
Digikey has the switches.
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On 4/10/2021 at 5:34 PM, Can’t Solder said:
Ngen33r, where are you located? I bought 2 used Klipsch sub 10 subwoofers ( with quintet III) from Goodwill auction. I liked the first speaker set with the Quintet III so well that I got another set with the sub 10. Both worked fine, until the second started blowing fuses. Now my first one has no sound, but the power stays on. They are probably not worth fixing. I contacted Klipsch, but they won’t give me a schematic on them. I probably can’t fix them anyway? From what your writing, it sounds like there is no way I can cheaply fix them?
Cleveland, OH
They can be repaired, but depends on the problem and what you feel they are worth. I am swamped and not taking anything new until I can catch up. -
Look up the data sheet for the IC. I believe 50V will work for those. The ceramic caps are almost never bad. Usually just a diode and / or the IC.
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I never measure anything on the PDC. I check the voltages on the other side of the transformer. Make sure you get ~90V at the large filter cap. ~5V at the mosfets at 0 volume and you can check the vregs both in and out. In, I believe is ~35V. You can also check the supply for the bash board also around 35V and check that the BASH is getting 12V at the power pin.
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On 4/10/2021 at 3:17 AM, gslettum said:
Any idea what the dc are on theese caps?
Glenn
The large mains? 200V 1000uF -
I will check if I have one tonight.
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i am alive, just been very busy with a contracted job. I plan to get back to making videos now that I am done with that. It is confirmed that there are 2 versions of the PDC and some parts will not match my schematic. I will post that info. Since it has been verified. Looks good otherwise.
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On 3/21/2021 at 10:19 PM, Mike Gans said:
I have a RT-10 that I am working on ordering some components to replace and can not read the markings on the blue cap that is in series with the ceramic cap with markings 56 1kv.
Anyone able to help me identify?
Thank you,
Mike
Post pictures so we can see the location and the reference
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You tore out one of the thru-holes on the PDC. That should be repaired. You are also missing a gate drive resistor and there is a good chance the DIAC is blown. The ICL should not matter much between 4A and 5A.
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On 2/26/2021 at 1:25 AM, riochicken@gmail.com said:
Hi, I have a sub 10 which seems to be working fine, but what I noticed on my amplifier (Yamaha RX-v810) was the right channel regularly dropping for some reason, after doubting the amp and the speaker, I decided to disconnect the cinch cable from the sub out on the amp to the line in of the sub since I also noticed some power leakage (serious static feeling on the cable) and TADA, the amp is working like it should! When I now turn the sub on and feel the cinch cable, I still feel the power leakage. I didn't open the sub yet, I first wanted to know the opinion of an expert. Since the sub still nicely turns on and hums if I touch the inner connection of the cinch cable, I assumed the sub is still ok, but it seems to be defective...
Ow I almost forgot, nothing is grounded (the sub has no ground connection anyhow), the house we are currently living in is not ours so I cannot do anything about that except maybe for using the radiator as a ground source..
Thank you in advance for your opinion!
Richard
Could be a bad bypass cap inside the amp. It should not have any high voltage leakage to the inputs. -
On 2/22/2021 at 7:34 PM, dashman said:
Just wondering, why do you call it a hack? The reason the fan was add was to promote cooling because it was overheating inside. What would you do to fix the amp that burned out due to overheating? Granted, I had the amp for about 10 years at the time it stopped working. And yes, it is the PM 5.1.
It is a hack, because it masks the problem. It does not correct the problem. Plus that fan just circulates the hot air inside so it is not all that effective. The correct repair is to remote mount the control circuit and get it out of that that power supply that is packed too tight.
But this is off topic for this thread. -
On 2/15/2021 at 8:35 PM, dashman said:
I think you repaired my dead sub many (~7) years ago. Part of the repair was to add a fan to help cool it. Now, when I start it up after it has been off for a while, the fan squeals for a bit, then stops. I thought I would ask you before I tore into it: what kind of fan did you put into the sub for cooling? It is something I can easily replace? Do I need any special tools. Unfortunately, I tossed all the old emails, so I could not ask you directly.
I never added fans to any repair. That is a hack and not the proper way to do it. I assume you have a ProMedia 5.1?-
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15 hours ago, Rikotiko said:
Hello. Tell me, can anyone have a diagram of the BASH indigo 640047 board, rev: 3? It is very necessary !!! 🙏
I have posted this before
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Definitely more dedicated to this than I was. But now I have a solid reference for future videos!!!!!
This might help with some of the pin labels. Not sure if they are the same so please verify. -
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Sub-10 / Sub-12 / RPW-10 Repair Blog
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
BE CAREFUL NOT ALL 660038RA BOARDS USE THESE COMPONENTS.