STSOE
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Posts posted by STSOE
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3 minutes ago, STSOE said:
My mistake. I didn't post the picture with the coil values. They are written inside of each of the small cores.
Okay, i just checked and i didn't only forget to post it. I forgot to take it too. God damn it.😋 Well i guess i'll have to take out the bottom woofer again on one of them to take one more before i start ordering stuff.
They didn't write any value on the big one though. Which is hella annoying. Any idea how i find out the value of that one?
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My mistake. I didn't post the picture with the coil values. They are written inside of each of the small cores.
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Does anyone have an image of the crossover from the Rf7 ll to compare with just for fun?
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31 minutes ago, MechEngVic said:
I totally overlooked that first link, thanks.
No worries.
It look somewhat decent except for that big ugly spool in the bottom. It is an iron core. I don't like that.
And thanks for throwing up the image by the way. I couldn't figure out how to do that. 😋
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5 hours ago, MechEngVic said:
And where's the pics of the crossover?!?!?!?
There is a link three posts up mate?
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On 12/8/2019 at 1:28 AM, glens said:
With what result?
Not as much as with a pair of Rp's to be honest. These are pretty well braced. But i have pretty much no cabinet vibrations even with very high volumes. I was a bit chocked to see that the back at the top was just bare wood.
I got a bit more precission at the higher frequencies. And as mentioned. No vibrations to the touch anymore.
It was pretty late when i did it last night so i didn't do any critical listening at higher volumes.
It's still pretty early so i'll wait a couple of hours before i crank it up but my initial impressions is that the bass is a bit tighter too. Not by the extend that you would notice it with lesser electronics i think.
But it was noticeable at the high frequencies. Less ringing and a bit more precission.
But hell a 50 dollar upgrade to minimize vibrations is well worth it in my book.
I only took them apart to see the crossover, but it seemed like a good idea to stiffen them up a bit and get rid of some of the noise inside the cabinet when i was at it.
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I couldn't help myself. I had to throw in some bitumen. 😋
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I finally got around to it.
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On 12/2/2019 at 6:10 AM, Jeffrey D. Medwin said:
No doubt.
Most likely. the passive crossovers you used were typical, and thus FAR from idealized as to wiring and parts choices and implementation.
IF ( a big word ) a passive crossover is well done, and you run great electronics, a Passive will be an improvement over an Active, because the Active calls for a whole other set of gain stages, in the crossover, to do that signal dividing. That " always at least one other gain stage ", ( with passive parts inserted to get the roll offs ), gets 'ya.
IMHO, IME, the extra gain stage employed, be it tube or sold state, creates a lack of transparency, in a really superbly implemented audio system. I am referring to a system that is at the edges of state-of-the-art, in the high-efficiency audio world.
KISS often rules. As an example, I use a two way speaker, and absolutely NO crossover at all ...........on the 15 inch woofer. It is now directly amp - driven, ....runs full range.
I almost never see a Passive crossover I really like, however. So the conceptually-inferior Actives can sneak into use. YMMV, fine, its all IMHO.
Jeff
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On 12/3/2019 at 7:08 AM, MechEngVic said:
This.
That's why repositories of know-how and experience, like this here forum, are such a valuable resource. Speaker builders make as good a sounding speaker as they can within the confines of the budgets they are given. There is always a compromise. Then we, with the help of these forums and our experiences, can extract the few missing bits of performance out of those designs. But care must be taken to avoid thoughtless "Swap-tronics".
You. My friend, you understand.
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On 12/2/2019 at 3:41 AM, MechEngVic said:
This is your chance to be a Klipsch Pioneer!! I don't think anyone has torn into their RF-7 III's yet. I guarantee you that the crossovers and wiring can be upgraded at the very least. And if you crack them open and document the design and values of the crossovers you'll get a lot of help from the experts on this forum. I for one am itching to see RF-7 III guts!
I will be putting up pictures on Saturday.
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On 12/2/2019 at 6:16 PM, dtel said:
Steeper slopes can make a big difference.
Went to a class about a month ago put on by Klipsch's chief engineer, one part of the class was doing listening test with a few different crossover slopes so you could hear the differences. If I remember correctly it was 4 different slopes on the same crossover, the majority of the people there chose one of the two of the steepest slopes after going back and forth a few different times and from different positions in the room.
All of this is why I am mostly not fond of changing things with proven speaker designs, the crossover slope is only a small part of what goes into a design. All of these different changes which are many just with crossovers alone are setup to work as a group, and is proven with testing to get a final design. Seeing some of the many different driver combinations, crossovers and other things that go into a design and tested through each step and at any time is subject to change for different reasons makes it pretty impossible to have good reliable results from general switching out parts, and calling it an "upgrade".
You may change out a part that cost more or looks to be made better but what have you done to the overall picture and performance, there are many different things that are taken into consideration and proven by test, if you could see everything considered and tested to see what each change actually does to the overall performance electrically and sonically you would have second thoughts about just randomly swapping out parts.
Don't take this the wrong way, I love DIY and think once you buy a speaker of course it's yours do do what you want, I just wish everyone could see how little changes can change other other things not even considered. A simple recorded plot testing one aspect only says so much and that result is only sonically, what really changed to get those changes ?
No worry. I get where you are coming from.
This is one of those 5% scenarios. But hey. I love these speakers. And i would gladly pay to get those 5%. I am driving them with a Hegel H590. So i already overkilled them. 😉
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13 hours ago, MechEngVic said:
This is your chance to be a Klipsch Pioneer!! I don't think anyone has torn into their RF-7 III's yet. I guarantee you that the crossovers and wiring can be upgraded at the very least. And if you crack them open and document the design and values of the crossovers you'll get a lot of help from the experts on this forum. I for one am itching to see RF-7 III guts!
Really? No one has done this yet? They have been around for a while now.
And yes i am pretty sure that the wiring and crossover could use an upgrade. I am just not that sure what would be the best way around this. I could always use the same values but with better components and some good wiring.
Just wanted to see what you guys have done with yours.
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1 hour ago, Skelt said:
It's been my experience that an active crossover beats all of the passives I've tried.
I never tried that and anyway, thanks but that is a no go for me.
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22 hours ago, pzannucci said:
Caps are the typical starting point. The sky is the limit on pricing. It will be a fair amount of experimentation and cost to find out if you like the "better" version or not.
You are absolutely right. Hence i was hoping for some good advice from you guys. 🙂
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On 11/30/2019 at 4:51 AM, glens said:
I'm betting you'll spend time and money on the project, and will hear a definite improvement. And that if you subsequently A/B them against stock versions will only be able to hear a difference if you know which pair is playing. And that any third party will not hear a difference, blind or sighted.
If you change capacitors and/or coils the chances are greater for an actual difference, maybe. As to whether it'll be an improvement or not, well...
That's the plan. And no i am not 100% sure that it would be an improvement if i just change some stuff to more expensive versions with the same values. I got a mate who upgraded the internals of a pair of rb,'s though and they really sound amazing.
Better components is always a good idea no matter what speaker we are talking about.
You are not right about that. I could easily a/b blindfolded if you changed my speaker cables. The same goes for the internal wiring just by a greater extend i suspect.
I didn't believe in wires until a mate tried a new pair in my system and holy shit, i upgraded everything shortly after.
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There is always a reason for better sound.
The main reason being because i can.
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10 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
The III's don't have the shortcomings that the 1's did. You might listen to them as is for a while and discover that you like them as is.
Shortcomings or not. I ain't gonna replace the whole thing. Just the "lesser" parts. Terminals, wiring etc.
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Well, the rest of my gear is pretty much three times as good as the rf7. I just really like the rf and therefore, getting a few % extra out of them would be welcome.
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Hey guys. I have been following the forum on and off for a couple of years but this is my first actual post.
I am quite curious if anyone have upgraded the internals of the RF7 lll?
I remember someone on here make crossovers for the original at least. I am thinking about upgrading the wiring, terminals etc.
Any recommendations?
Everything else in my system is pretty decent. I just want to see if i can get anything more out of these amazing speakers.
Right now i am pretty confident that the internals of the speakers is the bottle neck so to speak.
Internals of the RF7 lll
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I am pretty sure i am going to use a 33 from Mundorf and Jantzen on the other two.