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PaulR

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Posts posted by PaulR

  1. On 1/29/2021 at 11:52 PM, Iteachstem said:

    You can find an old K1 for a couple hundred dollars if you aren't in a hurry.  It will have plenty of power 350 watts at 8 oms per channel if you just use one of the channels, or 1,100 watts 8 ohms bridged.

     
    I bought a new crown XLi 1500 as an open box from Amazon for $257 its 900 watts bridged.  Works pretty good but has a noticeable buzz when the volume is down. If I have the sensitivity set at 1.4v the buzz is less but so is the volume of the sub so I keep it at 0.775v.  I intend on using this sub for a outdoor theatre setup and in my garage hooked up to my NSM cd jukebox that also puts a buzz into a set of Quartets I use out there, it’s not noticeable when music is playing.

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    • Like 1
  2. Wow, $100 bucks lol!  I have a pair Chorus 1’s I bought in 1994 for $600 , looks like their worth double that now but very recently  I replaced the crossovers and tweeters. 
     

    I was also looking at the crown amps , I like that idea better because of the rear driver.

     

     

  3. My Klipsch 15” sub failed so I replaced it with two SVS PB-3000’s.  I bought the Klipsch new many years ago and it still looks like new but from what l’ve been reading here they have a lot of amp issues but I hate to just let it sit so I was thinking of going with a Dayton plate amp. What kind of power can this sub handle? I think it’s only 250w now. Can it handle 500w??  Another problem is the passive driver on the back, should I just remove it to make room for the bigger amp?

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  4. 1 hour ago, JBCODD said:

    For truly superior performance, the drive head of the screws must also be considered. Slotted screws are NOT to be used. Phillips head may be used on non-Klipsch speakers. Square drive are to be used on non-Heritage speakers. Heritage speakers require Torx drive screws. The lobes diffuse unwanted resonances and boost many to the ultrasound band, where they can pop corn for your enjoyment. 

      There are many schools of thought on materials used for the screws, with stainless steel and brass being touted by opposing camps. For true audiophile uses I prefer a stainless/molybdenum blend, doped with a hint of magnesium in a high density plasma reactor. Then implanted with cobalt, and finished with a nice titanium nitride deposition. Of course these must be heat treated to properly diffuse the various additives and then quenched in oil refined and blended at the following proportions:

          -10% sperm whale

          -10% walrus

          -10% Newfoundland baby seal

          -70% Extra Virgin Olive oil, grown on the slopes of Vesuvius, crushed by donkey driven granite wheels and pressed before the rains. Olives grown on Mt Aetna may be used in a pinch. Avoid olives from Corleone. These are controlled by the GenCo operation, and come with strings attached.

    I’m upgrading my Chorus 1’s, where can I get some of these screws?  😜

    • Haha 2
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