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psykoticboss

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Posts posted by psykoticboss

  1. 11 hours ago, Langston said:

     

    Somebody just woke me up with her snoring, so I'm going to tinker with this. I'm worse, but it doesn't wake me or her for some reason. : )

     

    A low pass filter allows lower frequencies, a low cut filter (also called a high pass filter) blocks low frequencies. I assume the latter is what you are referring to when you're hoping that something in your system is disallowing music with frequency content less than your loudspeaker can properly reproduce.

     

    Low cut filters are used on each passband (woofer, midrange, tweeter, etc.) of loudspeakers intended for concert production because those systems are driven near their physical limits (heat and excursion, or how far the driver is allowed to move). Low cut filters are also seen in home audio systems, but rarely for woofers because their physical limits are rarely approached, cost is much more of a factor and because these filters introduce phase errors that compromise the quality of low frequency sound if not done carefully. Low cut filters are used in home audio subwoofer systems that are expected to be driven to their limits.

     

    The answer to your not-so-simple question, Part 1

    It's physics, but it's not hard and wildly entertaining to nut cases like us, so hang in there. Of the two loudspeaker failure modes; over-heating and over-excursion, over-heating is by far the more frequent loudspeaker killer. In home audio this kind of heat build up during long-term, very loud music playback isn't likely as it would cause permanent damage with your neighbors quicker than your loudspeakers. BUT if your amplifier is large enough and you drop a needle on a record or crank the volume to 11 during movie explosions, you may cause permanent damage to the woofer due to over-excursion. This damage is extremely rare even after doing something dumb (personal knowledge borne of much experience). Why is damaging over-excursion so rare? Because the physics of moving coil loudspeaker systems limits excursion below the region where the loudspeaker can reproduce sound.

     

    The answer to your not-so-simple question, Part 2

    Your woofer can move only so far outward from rest, or inward from rest, before it is damaged. Your woofer also produces a range of frequencies, and as you go lower in frequency, it has to move further in and out to produce a constant sound pressure level (flat frequency response). It just so happens that a loudspeaker driver has to move four times further in and out as frequency reduces by half. This quadrupling of excursion to maintain flat sound pressure level or frequency response is a 12dB per octave increase in excursion. Say your loudspeaker is flat down to 45Hz, then rolls off at 12dB per octave under 45Hz. THAT MEANS THE WOOFER STOPS INCREASING EXCURSION UNDER 45Hz. Yea! Thus if your loudspeakers sound good at the volume you are playing, there's nothing bad being done to the woofer at frequencies less that what you are hearing. BTW, it's most likely that your loudspeaker system rolls off by at least 24dB per octave, thus excursion is actually reducing as frequency decreases under 45Hz, thus all is well.

     

    So don't worry, be happy. : )

     

    God bless you and your precious family - Langston

    Thank you for the in-depth explanation. So in other words damage is highly unlikely unless I am playing at such unreasonably loud volumes. I think you're right in that I should just enjoy the speakers and not worry all too much about what 'could' happen. 

  2. 3 minutes ago, MeloManiac said:

    Yes, when they say the frequency response is e.g. 45Hz, it means the filter will allow the speaker to safely produce soundwaves (and higher).

    Actually, I have one or two recordings that come with a warning that it could damage your speakers, eg because they 've used a 16Hz organ pipe. But that is utterly wrong. The crossover/speaker combo will rarely be able to reproduce that 16Hz organ pipe... let alone damage it.

    Yeah I wish they specified that more but it makes sense if it 'blocks' the speaker from even trying to reproduce 45 and below. I will set my sub crossover starting at 50 and see how it goes. Might adjust from there. Thanks for your input man.

  3. 4 minutes ago, MeloManiac said:

    This thread is interesting:

    All speakers can reproduce down to 1Hz. All that will happen is that you won't hear it. You'll literally see the driver moving one time per second and that'll be it. It's not damaging for this to happen.

    However, when a speaker tries to reproduce a broader bandwidth than it's ideally suited for you get inaccuracies in that reproduction, known as distortion. The driver either isn't going to be fast enough or it's not going to move enough air for you to hear it. So we filter out what's not necessary for the driver to produce anyway, so what it does produce comes through with less distortion due to the driver not trying to do more than necessary.

    Limiting the power to a speaker is another issue altogether and it has to do with how much the speaker can move without damaging itself.

    https://gearspace.com/board/so-much-gear-so-little-time/747517-what-happens-when-you-feed-speaker-signal-goes-beyond-its-frequency-range.html

     

    So the 'filter' (or crossover) is basically filtering out the frequencies and energy that would otherwise damage the woofer.

    This is, I guess, why you have to respect the specs of the capacitors, when you 'recap' old speakers (which I did with my 1972 Heresies).

    So if all speakers can reproduce it, does that mean the frequency response is actually where they put the crossover limit at, aka where they guessed that it could handle down to without distortion or damage potential? 

  4. Just now, MeloManiac said:

    Well, your amp is sending out the (amplified) signal to the speakers at this moment, but they don't do anything with the low frequencies. Your sub will be able to turn that signal into soundwaves,.

    Ah gotcha. Yeah I couldn't find any information specifically saying what the 600s do with those frequencies. You would like it would be listed as some type of filter, like under the specs it would say 45hz low pass filter or something. But you are pretty sure it has a filter that ignores anything below what it can produce?

  5. 4 minutes ago, MeloManiac said:

     

    No need to worry about this. Most modern amplifiers have a frequency range between 20Hz and 20kHz (or even higher) and few speakers will pick up the frequencies below 50Hz. I don't know what happens to that 'energy', but I'm sure it is not damaging your RP600Ms. Relax and enjoy the music!

    Well that doesn't make complete sense right? What if I had tower speakers with big woofers that were able to play say down to 30hz..surely I wouldn't just be losing all that bass potential of the towers if it wasn't sending anything less than 50hz. I think you may be right though that I needn't worry about it. Since they are on warranty for 5 years I am not too worried about damage but moreso is distortion common with lower frequencies. Ill have the sub in a few weeks and will be able to properly test. Hoping the 600s sound clear and nice even at loud volumes sending them full range. 

  6. I can't find an answer on this so wanted to ask here.

     

    I got a pair of RP-600ms and they are rated down to 45hz.

     

    Since I can not set the crossover on my amp, what happens to all of the frequencies less than 45hz that will be sent to the 600s?

     

    Do I have to worry about this at high volumes? Ideally I would the sub handling all of these but my receiver sends full range regardless of if a sub is plugged in.

     

    Some had said that distortion and potential damage are reasons to set crossover(if able) to say 80hz. Since I can't do that, do I have anything to worry about?

     

    In the future if I get a receiver where I can set crossover, can I theoretically play them at higher volumes without distortion? Thank you.

  7. Hey Boomzilla,

     

    I know this thread is old but that is awesome you have two 15s. Has your setup changed at all or are you still using the 600s?

     

    I got the 600s with one 15" sub. The sub hasn't came in yet though. Unfortunately I can not set the crossover on my amp, only on my sub. 

     

    I agree with your point that the 6.5" could hypothetically take a beating at high volumes with the lower frequencies.

     

    However, I wanted to ask what ended up working best for you? Have you found that the 600s have any issue if they are being forced to play down to 45-60hz like they are rated, especially at low volume?

  8. I paired my new RP-600Ms with a Yamaha S-501. So far I am super impressed and really enjoying them. Coming from a sound bar they are blowing me away how big the sound is and they are crystal clear.

     

    I have a sub coming in two weeks. I got the HSU 15" MK2. Monster sub I am super excited for.

     

    My issue is that with this amplifier, although it has a dedicated 'sub-out', there is no way to set crossover so the speakers are always getting full range. 

     

    Ideally I would like my sub to be able to handle all of the lows up to say 80hz. However I think the 600s/sub will have to share the 45-80hz range since the 600s will be getting full frequencies.

     

    I have heard mixed opinions but some say I could damage the speaker playing loud volumes when they are being sent full frequencies. Does it really matter? I would assume these are designed to be turned up full range or not. I know 'ideally' I could set crossover and let the 600s focus on mids/highs, but in my scenario is it going to matter at all they they are playing full range at loud volumes?

     

    Also do the 600s have a filter on them where they 'ignore' a certain hz and below? Are the 600s going to be 'overworked' trying to play full range? Any chance of driver damage? Or do they try to play anything sent their way and are only successful 45 and above.

     

    I just don't want to damage the speakers. However, once the sub is in I definitely will be playing them at loud volumes. Can yall let me know your opinion on this? I don't really want to send the receiver back to get one with crossover setting unless I absolutely have to. Thank you!

    • Like 1
  9. 22 hours ago, willland said:

    You are very welcome.

     

    The RP-600s will only play so deep so just set the LPF on the subwoofer to about 1/2 octave above the RP-600s -3dB lower frequency and you should be good to go.

     

    When my Klipsch RSW-10d subwoofer was operating, I set it's LPF to 60Hz to supplement my RB-75s and the integration was seamless, just about perfect.

     

    Bill

    Thank you again. The RP-600s came in yesterday and the S-501 came in today. Crazy fast UPS shipping with Crutchfield they are on top of their game getting orders out.

     

    Gotta wait about 2 weeks till next check then can order the sub. Planning on the HSU VTF-15H MK2. One should be enough for now as the room is only 10x15x10.

     

    I will play with the sub crossover and dial it in just right. I think the 600s stop at 45 but that is wild to me I cant imagine only having the sub playing 45 and below. Ill do whatever sounds best but maybe the sub can play up to 60 or so like you said and they can share the 45-60 range. 

     

    Also as a note: you have a really nice collection of sound equipment. Alot of money but at least you have good setups across the house. Nice job :)

  10. 4 minutes ago, MeloManiac said:

     

    There many threads on this forum debunking the "power myth". It is not the highest watt amp that is the best performer. It's all about the quality of the inside, the layout etc. In fact, only the first one or two watt (!) matter. Some extremely good (and expensive) amplifiers only come with 6 or 8 or 12 watt. This certainly applies for highly efficient speakers, such as (almost) all Klipsch speakers, and certainly the rp600m.

    If you want to fill a dance hall, a church, or a garden party, that's when you need a power amp, not when you play music in the average listening room. If you plan to buy less efficient speakers in the future, then a high powered amplifier may be a good investment, though.

     

    Thank you man. I think I decided on the 501 just for that reason if I end up getting bigger ones down the line like towers I would be set. 

     

    Are you able to speak on my other comment question about the speaker crossover? It looks like I have no way to set the crossover for that amp. So will the 600s just be playing full range even though the sub could handle all the lower stuff? Ideally I think you want to allow your sub to solely play the lows so the 600s can 'focus' on the mids/highs...but will it matter do you think? The receiver has a dedicated sub out, but I dont know if having a sub plugged in lets the receiver know to only send mid/high signals to the 600s. Thoughts?

     

    Note: I did see that the sub out on the 501 as a low pass filter of 100hz, but I would assume that just controls what signals get sent to the sub, not what the amp is sending to 600s.

  11. 4 hours ago, willland said:

    I sure you will be fine with the 301 unless you blast in a large room.

     

    Bill

    Thanks for the help Bill. I have another concern that has come up in my research. As far as I understand there is no bass management or crossover handling with these 2 receivers. Since I am buying a sub, should I get a receiver that allows me to set crossover where the speakers arent wasting energy playing the low frequencies that the sub is taking care of? I can set the crossover on the sub, but as far as I know no way to set the crossover to where the Klipsch isn't playing the lower stuff. Or will it not really matter as long as I have plenty of power with amp?

  12. 11 hours ago, willland said:

    I think this would be a fine choice.  Seems to check all boxes.

     

    Welcome to the forum.

     

    Bill

    Hey Bill,

     

    Would I be able to save the 200 and get the A-S301? It is rated for 65/watts per channel but the folks over at crutchfield are saying I wouldn't notice any difference with the 501 since the 301 is more than enough power. Is that accurate? I would get the 501 if I will notice a good difference with the extra power. 

  13. Hello!

     

    This is my first post! I have always loved Klipsch. I got the SB Icon 1 soundbar in college and it has been going strong for 8 years now. Simple product but really got me hooked on sound.

     

    Before that I had always just used sound from TV speakers. Sad times.

     

    Fast forward to now and I have just ordered a pair of RP-600Ms as well as a subwoofer. I am deciding between a Rhythmik 12, SVS PB-1000 Pro, or a HSU 15H-MK2.

     

    I would really like amplifier to have optical cord digital input for my Xbox if possible, as well as a dedicated subwoofer out port.

     

    Can someone please help me choose an amplifier? My budget is absolute max 600 if absolutely necessary to go that high, but I would really like to stay in the 250-500 range. 

     

    So far I have considered :

     

    -Yamaha A-S301 : This amp is only $350 which would allow me extra budget for the subwoofer. Digital input as well. However it is only rated for 60 watts per channel. With the 600Ms being rated for 100W/channel, will this amp struggle? I don't blow my ears out but I really like listening to loud music with bass and loud movies. 

     

    -Yamaha A-S501 : Same line as 301 but this one rated for 85/watts per channel. I kind of would rather have more than enough power. The goal is to maximize the potential of the 600s. I don't want to be missing out on any speaker potential if the amp is not strong enough. I know they are sensitive speakers, I just don't know enough about all the power requirements to make a good decision.

     

    -Cambridge AXR-85 : This one is $400, and is rated for 85/watts per channel. It doesn't have the digital input so I would have the added cost of getting a optical to analog converter. Someone did say it has way lower damping factor, and actually told me the Yamaha A-S301 is a much better and more powerful amp even though its rated at 60/watts/channel vs the cambridge 85/channel.

     

    These are the main 3 I have looked at but I am completely open to suggestions. My main thing is I want to completely maximize the potential of the RP-600ms. The optical digital input and subwoofer out would also be a huge plus. Would really like to stay below 500 but I can go above if someone who knows this stuff can tell me its truly going to make a difference with these speakers.

     

    Thank you for any help! I really appreciate you taking the time to read and help. 

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