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SixerFixer's Achievements


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  1. 2 year update after starting this thread: my Bar48 is still working great! Got tempted by a heavily discounted Cinema 1200 the other day, but I think I’m a bit too emotionally invested into this Bar48 to replace it. 😄
  2. Gotta say, I'm thrilled to see so many success posts in this thread! 😄
  3. The 5v rail should still allow it to power on. The 24v rail is used to power the speakers themselves. I'd suggest double checking the wiring and making everything is plugged in where it needs to be. I do find with the new power supply, my Bar48 takes a few seconds to actually power on after hitting the power button... it may spring to life if you give it a few seconds after powering it on!
  4. Does the Klipsch Cinema 600 use the same power supply as I swapped out from the Bar48 (ETOP LPS-U101D2405L)? If so, this is the one I purchased: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32854245846.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4dd5WZa7 Just verify when it arrives make sure it's a 5v/24v dual output power supply. The seller first sent me a 5v/12v one by accident which wouldn't have worked. It would be great if this repair can be applied to the Cinema 600 as well, as I've heard those are equally as unreliable as the Bar48! With regards to my repair... the replacement power supply has been working perfectly after 3 and a half months of heavy use. It's great to see others sharing similar experiences with this repair, and encourage everyone to share their success story if they are able to revive their sound bar.
  5. GND is your ground, VDD is your +5V voltage, and STB is your standby line (as labelled from the original power supply removed from the Bar48). Because the STB line also happens to be a +5V channel, you can simply twist the VDD and STB wires together and plug them into the +5V out line of the power supply, and the soundbar should work. Make sure you verify which side of the new power supply is 5V and which side is 24V! Very important to not plug the VDD and STB wires into the +24V output by accident or you will likely fry your Bar48's mainboard.
  6. The manufacturer of the power supply (ETOP) literally told me that the power supply is broken. No point wasting time trying to troubleshoot/repair it when a replacement unit costs $15.
  7. Use a multimeter to validate which are the 5V and 24V outputs, then I connected GND to the 5V -, and VDD and STB together to 5V +.
  8. Have the Bar48 hooked up to my TV again, and it works just like it did before. So, we have successfully fixed the sound bar. Another misc note that I did miss from my previous reply is that I drilled and countersunk a new hole in the Bar48's backplate to mount the new power supply due to its smaller size. Beyond an extra hole in the back, you really can't tell that anything is out of the ordinary. So... in summary, the lesson learned here is that the ETOP power supply used by Klipsch in the Bar48 is the weak link in an otherwise stellar product. The truly tragic bit here is that Klipsch considers these products unrepairable and does not offer any path for repair shop or user repair. Thankfully, some electronics knowledge and a $15 replacement PSU from AliExpress has saved the day. Hopefully this thread comes in handy helping other Bar48 users with their no-power issue. I do need to credit the creativity in this repair path! Glad you got yours working!!
  9. Success; got it working! So my AliExpress 24V4A/5V1A power supply has done the trick. Hooked up the 120V inputs, 24V output, and 5V output with standby pulled from +5V (NOT ground), and the Bar48 powered up right away (please ignore my messy workspace!):
  10. These issues definitely sound like they could be related to low voltage on the 5V rail of the power supply!
  11. Bit of a snag, the company that made the power supply can't send me a replacement now as they don't do small orders and I'm not an OEM. So... there's a cheap replacement option I've found online that I've ordered to see if it will do the trick! Costs $15, outputs 24V 4A and 5V 1A, and looks to be pretty popular in the DIY world. Fingers crossed this will do the trick if I can't fix the original power supply! Would be nice if Klipsch offered replacement power supplies instead... would have saved me ton of effort.
  12. Can only attach up to 2MB of stuff per post; here's the reading I'm getting from the 5V rail when the Bar 48 PCB is connected, to compare with what the power supply spec sheet lists for the PSU:
  13. New to the forums, figured now would be a good opportunity to say hi! I’m a long-time fan of Klipsch products, having started with a set of fantastic-sounding Promedia 2.1’s I bought about 15 years ago. That system has had its quirks, but I’m quite happy about just how repairable they’ve been. I was in the market to improve the sound quality from my entertainment unit, but given the size of my place and the fact I have a toddler running around, having a dedicated home theatre system wasn’t an option. To address this, I picked up a Bar 48 about a year and 8 months ago as I’m familiar with the quality of Klipsch products and knew it would produce quality sound. And produce quality sound it did… until it died. With the sound bar being 8 months out of warranty, I figured I could get it repaired. Turns out that’s not the case. Per the Klipsch support centre here in Canada, these sound bars aren’t deemed repairable. No parts available, no service manual, no schematics. Nothing. Basically, if it stops working there is literally nothing that the repair centre can do to fix it, and they advise you just buy a new one. Furthermore, the service centre told me that there’s a copious amount of glue used to hold everything together, so even if you feel inspired to take it upon your self to attempt a DIY repair, nothing will be accessible and you will cause more damage trying to fix it. Instead what I was offered was a possible trade-in credit on a new unit. I was told that I could send it in at my expense, and they would offer me a Cinema 600 for $699. To put that into perspective, retail pricing for the Cinema 600 when it goes on sale is $699, so they were offering me literally nothing for the sound bar I paid $700 for less than two years prior. Basically, I was told to pound sand. Again, I can’t stress enough that I’ve been a fan of Klipsch products, but the fact that the company made a failure-prone product unrepairable and is unwilling to try and help me out struck a chord with me. I’ve seen from multiple sources that Bar 48s not powering on is an extremely common failure mode, so hopefully this thread can help some people out by adding a ray of hope to their expensive sound bar that Klipsch says can't be fixed. So for starters, the Bar 48 is totally repairable. By removing the screws around the periphery of the back panel, the main PCB, power supply, and associated wires all slide out as a unit: The Canadian service centre mentioned that everything is glued together, and that simply is not the case. Yes, there is some hot glue on the connectors to prevent the connectors from separating if the unit is moved around or bumped, but this is a common sight with consumer electronics and can be easily removed by some careful prying away with a screwdriver. Through my testing, I found that the power supply on my unit had failed. The unit is an LPS-U101D2405L dual switching power supply, made by ETOP electronics in China. The PSU takes a 120VAC source and converts it to two separate 24VDC and 5VDC rails. The 24V rail appears to power the amplifier and speakers, while the 5V rail appears to power all the other electronics, including the control panel, LEDs on the front of the sound bar, and Bluetooth functionality. I found that when unloaded, the rails output 24V and 5V as they should, but once the Bar 48 PCB is connected to the 5V rail, output from the 5V rail drops to 2.7V. This is likely not enough voltage to power the main PCB, thus causing the no-power issue that many have experienced. I have reached out directly to ETOP (as an FYI this is not an easy thing to do!), and have confirmation that the power supply has failed. Per the spec sheet they sent me, operating voltage on the 5V rail should be 5V +/- 0.5V, so the 2.7V reading is well outside of spec, which was further confirmed by their engineering department. I’ve made arrangements to have a replacement power supply sent my way (with which to compare with my failed unit), so in the meantime I was going to try and diagnose exactly which component in the power supply failed. The goal here is to provide the Klipsch community with a low-cost option to fix your dead Bar 48s. As a disclaimer, I am not an electronics savant, but I am pretty handy with electronics and am extremely determined to fix this sound bar due to this awful customer service experience. Additionally, I was going to use this as an opportunity to learn more about power supply and voltage regulator design. So as mentioned earlier, when a load is applied to the 5V rail, output drops to 2.7V. I believe this might be related to a failed component in the 5V rail voltage regulator, which appears to have a couple of components that would be relatively easy to swap out. The first is an A12N65H MOSFET attached to a heatsink on the board. The MOSFET tested fine, but doesn’t appear to provide full continuity between the drain and source pins after the gate has been activated. Again, I’m not an electronics expert, so perhaps this is normal but I ordered a replacement MOSFET to install just in case. The second component I was going to look at was the LD7552BPS pulse-width modulation controller. I believe these are used for controlling voltage, with operating frequency set by a resistor connected to Pin #4. Maybe a resistor failed? I’m not sure! Having a second, replacement power supply handy will help me validate some of these things! The simple solution here would be to have offer a power supply replacement for these units that failed, but since those aren't available it looks like a DIY approach is the only option. Either way, stay tuned with my progress on this, as I will get my Bar 48 working again, despite Klipsch telling me there’s nothing that can be done.
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