M.Att

Thanks for pointing out that poly switch, I was looking at the schematic for the XOver and didn't know what that was. Two deliveries today, for this project, the original crossovers and a Dayton DATS device came in! The crossovers appear to be in good condition and I've been able to get some T/S parameters for the K-80s. One of their impedance charts looks a little off though, the same one that I noticed the ferrofluid in. Do you all have any thoughts on this driver? For debugging, I moved the diaphragms between the two and the impedance oddity followed the magnet and not the diaphragm.

Thanks for sharing that crossover, $50 for the whole set of speakers is a great deal! The cabinets we found were that much alone. Are you doing anything to pull the tweeter down? (I don't see any resistors in it) Your picture reminded me to ask, why and when would a designer use a ferrite core inductor as opposed to an air core? I see both here and I assume the ferrite is used parallel to the speaker and air is series. Going back up a number of posts, the comments on resonances has been resonating with me, it seems that cabinet resonances are wasted energy that could otherwise be applied to the passive radiator were that energy not being used to move the wood. Is there anything available to read on why and how they tuned the KGs to work with the resonances to enhance bass?

Thanks, I'll pick up some replacement fluids for both then. Another question that comes to mind, in addition the XOver ones, what was the mass of the original passive radiator? The rabbit's hole comment is quite accurate, it seems that I like taking on fractal problems.

Hi All, Thanks for the replies. The more I've thought about it since posting the more I tend to agree with going for a stable/known baseline first. I emailed with the techs at parts-express and while I really like the Dayton woofers (I have made a few of their DIY kits and greatly enjoy the Classix II) I don't think any of their 8" woofers will match the sound of the originals for the price of the originals either on EBay or two sets from Midwest Speaker Repair. (https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/shop/home-audio/woofers/klipsch-1/mw-audio-mw-5082-8-woofer/) Now that I'm going that route, I need to consider the crossovers. I have some originals which I'll use as a baseline, but I suspect since they are original I'll need to rebuild them. Going back to my original post, what are your thoughts on a 2.5 setup? And now for a new question, the K-80 tweeters arrived yesterday. They seem clean, I've not checked the impedances yet, but one of them has some black gunk, which seemed a lot like grease, between the magnet and diaphragm. Am I correct to assume that this is a normal thing for their age? I'll get a picture later if the description doesn't make sense. Thanks, M

Hi Everyone, I'm a new member but long-time viewer of the Garage Sale and Alerts! threads. I've had a few Klipsch speakers over the years starting with a KLF-C7 which I was too young to really appreciate and gave to a brother of mine ten years ago. Over the weekend that brother dropped off a pair of nice KG4 cabinets completely devoid of everything save the wood and stuffing and asked if I could help him refurbish them. Last year I rebuilt a pair of Polk RT55s and he really liked the results and would like these to complement the C7 as the L/R channel speakers for his TV and also use for stereo music. (I pity his neighbors) I figured it'd be a fun project to rebuild these and already purchased some K-80-K horns and original crossovers from Ebay which should be delivered next week. But here is where I am left to reach out to the community. First woofers, I think the K-80s are a few DB more efficient than the original K-74s. Would this preclude the original/NOS K-8-Ks? Are there FRD/ZMA files around for the K-8s? If those files aren't readily available, or even accurate pictures that I could use to create them, what do you all think would be a good enough replacement? I'm not trying to break the bank with Seas drivers. 🙂 I have some competing goals, it seems, cost, efficiency, bass. Would the passive radiator make up the difference with higher efficiency PA type speakers? e.g. Dayton PA-200? I also want to wire up a new XOver to add a Zobel network, L-Pad and whatnot. I read this entire thread and really like the idea of a 2.5 setup. KG5.5 Update 2.5 Way Conversion - Klipsch Community Has anyone added internal bracing to the enclosure and measured the results? Thanks in advance and if there's an important question I haven't asked please ask for me, I don't know what I don't know and would like to learn.