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M.Att

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  1. Hi Dave, Thanks, that's a neat product. It still doesn't fix the WAF though, carpeted speakers don't go with her decor. 🙂 For a technical question: What would be the difference electrically between the autoformer and a LPad using non-inductive resistors? Is that difference worth the cost difference?
  2. I got a chance to look at the KP2500 XO recently and the transformer does NOT have extra taps, so my only real option is a L-Pad. Now that said, I hooked them up to my Marantz NR1200 and with the subwoofers (LFE @ 80hz) they are superb for movies, TV, and pretty darn good for music too. However, they completely fail the WAF/CAF and I might be posting them on the Garage Sale area. I'll include the 10' and 35' cables and stands too. Harumph.
  3. Hi KLL, I'm all done, sold them to my brother a few months back to one of my brothers. I got a chance to hear them again a few weeks ago though, I really liked the way they came out, detailed but not shrill / shouting. The bass was really revealed by taming the tweeter too, I had them placed about 2' from the walls and I didn't think a subwoofer was necessary. The one thing I wish I had done was measure the final frequency response, but my brother auditioned them, was enamored, and left that same day. The biggest fix in taming the horn was the addition of the LPad ( Series + Parallel Resistor {R4 & R5 in the schematic} ) That's the only change I made in the tweeter's circuit that affected the volume of the driver. If you want a relatively low-cost introductory lesson check out the C-Note DIY kit. They're great sounding little speakers and you get to learn a bit about speaker building in the process. Feel free to DM me if you have any questions. I've not built many, but I'll gladly share my experiences.
  4. Hi KLL, Those are my creation, but it only took about an hour to solder/wire up. The schematic is reflected in the picture. I got all the parts from Parts-Express minus the plywood, screw-down bus, and yellow 8.2uf cap (Amazon, free same-day shipping was the only reason). It wasn't the cheapest; I spent more on caps since I was using inductors from my stash. Given the quantity and size of parts I found plywood to be easier than the perforated boards. (I did make a double-height perf. board XO for my Classix IIs, but wouldn't recommend that here) Here's a picture of the new XO in the box.
  5. Hi Mike, I had a similar plot w/ K-80s and it corrected when I replaced the ferrofluid. Your's seems to have autocorrect turned on though.
  6. Is Laurie the same person that was selling a large cache of Klipsch speakers last May?
  7. I just redid a pair of KG4s. Here's what I came up with, it's slightly different than stock. The biggest difference is that the tweeter is now tame with the addition of an LPad. On the woofers I added a resistor to bring down the impedance, a notch filter for the area just before the XOver point, a Zobel network, and a final inductor to roll off the lower woofer a bit sooner. I should have used a larger inductor but was just grabbing parts out of my spare parts bin.
  8. Great, I follow that, the 250/2500 is 7db hotter then the HII, and even then that's possibly above the woofer. An L-Pad is easier for a test and/or permanent solution than messing with the transformer. In the other speakers I've built, DIY and ones of my own, I've tried to pull the upper registers down below the woofer's sensitivity in order to balance everything out and create a non-fatiguing listening experience. Wouldn't that imply that I'd need to really consider a 10 - 13db drop on both the tweeter and squawker? (I realize this might be heretical 🙂 )
  9. Yes, I could do that, however, I have to ask, which thread has the schematics and details on it? I've never personally done anything with a transformer. Does anyone have the FRD/ZMA files for these 3 drivers? I'd love to poke around at them.
  10. M.Att

    KG4 & KG1, MD

    I did see, while browsing USAudiomart, some fantastical horns with 4x15"(?) woofers below them. I would have to hope the enclosure was large enough for a sleeping bag if they showed up here.
  11. M.Att

    KG4 & KG1, MD

    Thanks! I do too.
  12. Hi Randy, Honestly, as compared to the rest of the signal path I don't think the LPads will add noticeable noise. My amp is cheap, the "DAC" is my laptop, and as far as resistors are concerned a wire-wound resistor is more than adequate when it comes to potentially adding noise to the signal. I can pick up an 8 and 16 ohm resistor and quickly fabricate a 6db LPad with some speaker wire and compare the two speakers. I though about plugging the ports to see how they affect the sound. When I get some free time later this week I'll stuff something in them and see how it goes. The K-80s I recently performed an "oil change" on had an appreciable effect on the impedance of the drivers (measured with DATSv3). I could pull them and check.
  13. M.Att

    KG4 & KG1, MD

    Hi Billybob, Sorry, I meant to say that the KP2500's I just picked up are my first 3-way speakers in a long time. I recently refurbished a pair of KG4s and really enjoyed them for the brief time they were with me.
  14. Perfect, I grabbed a pair of forceps and slowly wiggled it out. This, from another thread, is the Xover that's in them: KP250 Crossover
  15. Excellent piece. I'd considered dynamat on the horns too. Before I dig into the enclosure I do have three questions for everyone. These are the first speakers I've had with metal screwed in grills, I removed the screws and the grills stayed in place. I don't want to mar them (they are pristine even after ~17 years!), so how do I safely remove them? Question 2: Does the autotransformer have different taps to change the attenuation? That would be my preferred route before splicing in a couple LPads. 3: Has anyone measured the effects of including ~7.5" port tubes to the output? 3A: OK, that's really 4, measured the difference between the Crite's diaphragm and the stock ones? (The previous owner gave me both) Thanks!
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