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mboxler

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  1. You can "cheat" and make the 3636 closer to a T2A. Since the inductance of the 3636 is roughly twice that of the T2A simply move all the wires to the 3636 down a tap. In other words, input 0 - 4, tweeter 0 - 4, squawker 0 - 3.
  2. Those are two 2.5mh inductors in series which equals 5mh.
  3. If it has an E2 crossover, it's a Heresy 1.5. That's my story and I'm sticking with it 😎
  4. I’d be interested in what SPL and Phase plots show around those frequencies.
  5. Just to show that an autoformer is just a tapped inductor connect a known inductor in parallel with taps 0-5. You can then use an inductors in parallel calculator to verify the results. This is exactly what Klipsch did with the AK3. The 5mh inductor is in parallel with the 7.6mh(?) T4A taps to get to the desired 3mh shunt inductance.
  6. I assume it’s because it’s actually -3.3db???
  7. That is so bizarre. Do you have an LCR meter? If so, I'd measure the inductance between certain taps. You may need to desolder the autoformers to get accurate readings. The inductance between taps 0 - 3 should equal the inductance between taps 3 - 5. The specs say 11.4mh, but it's usually lower. The spec sheet shows other inductance values that should help determine which tap is which. Mike
  8. But if he wants to use the terminal cup as it was originally designed he would have to put the woofer low pass in the bass bin. Sounds like he's after a stock looking network.
  9. Since the AL3 and the AK3 are almost identical, an easy thing to do is... 1) Remove the 4mh inductor and both 68uf capacitors from the AL3. 2) Buy a 100uf capacitor. 3) Make a small board with the following layout (reuse the 4mh inductor) and mount it to the inside of the woofer door. Wire as shown. 4) Connect "To High Frequency Cabinet" to AL3 Input. Leave the woofer output terminals empty on the AL3. 5) Enjoy! Any double checking of my idea is welcome 😎
  10. I, too, wondered about this, until I simulated the impedance differences. Green is the 4mH coil and 100uF capacitor. White is the 2.5mH coil and 150uF capacitor. Notice that the green plot bottoms out around 4.6 ohms. The white plot, however, bottoms out at around 2.3 ohms. That combo draws a LOT of current, and I'm not sure many low wattage amps would be happy.
  11. Although your resonance frequencies are correct, there is one other important variable...the load itself. Let's use the AK-3 filter. At the resonance frequency of 251hz, the impedance of both the inductor and capacitor is 6.34 ohms. In order for the voltage across the load to be 3db down at 251hz, the load itself must be 6.34 * .708, or 4.5 ohms. If the load is less than that, the voltage will drop faster as the filter is over damped. If the load is greater than that, the voltage will extend further as the circuit is under damped. When all is said and done the -3db point (voltage) on the AK-3 is closer to 330hz(?). Ya...this gives me a headache too.
  12. Hey Denis I'm going off of Google translate. Yes, the crossovers are attached to the terminal cup, where you connect the speaker wires. Unfortunately, they are probably a total loss. Too bad, they are great sounding speakers. Good luck with the insurance. Mike
  13. That's what the Type A crossover is for. It's a passive filter. Your car stereo probably has active filters, but the result is the same. Send the voltage to the correct drivers based on frequency.
  14. Don't connect the speakers to the RCA jacks. Those are for your music sources. Connect the two wires in your hand to SPEAKERS (8Ω MIN). The posts on the receiver are push type. Simply push on the black or red tab, insert the bare part of the wire into the hole, then release the tab. Put the 1 wire into A R - (black tab), and the 2 wire into A R + (red tab). Both wires power the speaker. Turn the receiver all the way down. Verify the SPEAKER A is displayed on the front panel. Play some music and slowly turn the volume up. Make sense? Mike
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