Bacek

Both of them are autotransformers not transformers. And that's how autotransformer construction looks like.

Do we really want those to be removed? Discussions here for many years kept interest in heritage series speakers but even then I was surprised with commercial offers from 3rd part vendors here. This is Klipsch home so their rules are law in here and this is completely understandable. Let's hope they will no go hardcore and remove old discussions (I'm afraid they will in time). I don't like here new fanboy hype now, but this is another topic and separate from rules what can and what cannot be discussed. Most of old crew moved to non commercial forum and all discussions can be and are continued there.

Still not sure about your scenario. Test you included is about polarity between two speakers in stereo pair, not for drivers in single speaker. So it's crucial to have same polarity for left and light speaker, not for separate drivers in single speaker. Of course there is possibility that at speaker assembling or in amplifier (or even with cable itself, and you can verify this with voltmeter) something was done incorrectly, but then it needs closer inspection and some measurements to confirm this. So you could try to open speakers and check both if they are exactly same assembled, but only if they are out of warranty. Otherwise would be good to confirm this with some measurements and then call warranty claim. But for a start I would check speaker cable first, maybe in one or other colors where mixed, then I would try with other amplifier.

Not sure I got the problem. For passive crossovers phase is often not same for all drivers. If that was creators intention and you will reverse one of the drivers,then you will get bumps and dips in frequency characteristics. How you got to your conclusion? Did you made some measurements?

Tweeters are Electro Voice T35. Klipsch was using them as K-77 but he was not only one. That version (chrome front) was also available to buy as normal (not only for OEM vendors) component from EV.

Ground up rebuild indeed 🎖️.

I would say placement rules are the same for most speakers. Maybe except of khorns or subs. Here you have Heritage series manual (with Chorus II and Forte II listed) with placement tips. Pdf is unfortunately too large to attach here directly. http://e.manualretriever.com/flipbook/lect.php?c=0&ID=2701524&lg=E&h=d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e&src=15#google_vignette Actually here is higher quality one (that with five languages/flags) https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/klipsch/la-scala.shtml

Don't think magic eraser (if we are talking about those white sponge) is good think for wood. They work somehow when they are wet and using water on plywood it's not best thing to do. In small doses it will not brake it but it will lift the grain of the wood. I guess you will not avoid sanding especially around this broken/glued part. First it's good to clean it up with mineral spirits especially if they where oil treated. I don't see any cons for sanding, just use some flat block of wood and wrap it with sanding paper and do it evenly on whole surface. Of course use fine grades 240 or even finer and then you will see what you have. Possible that those glued part will need some filling but then you will need to find some wood based fillers if you want to keep them raw or stained. After that it's up to you what effect/color you what to archive. If you decide to stain, I prefer to use alcohol based die stains as for me they are easier to work. Anyway better to test this before on piece of spare wood/plywood. I'm not a fan of stains on plywood especially on this kind of bright color woods but this is matter of preferences. And especially dark stains as then wood looks not like stained but kind of dirty/crappy painted.

Flipping them over and unscrewing hatch it's not especially dangerous, but for sure takes some time.

Could you post pictures of complete and defective/missing part horn?

I'm sorry that I invaded your thread and wrote noting one the topic. I would leave inductors. They do not look nice but clamps can be removed and cleaned to bare metal, visible core parts can can be also cleaned. You can check them electrically to be on safe side. Parameters for parts you will find here Klipsch Crossovers. Mine where also not in best state and I'll planning to pimp them up cosmetically. As seen on pic top is polished and I need to follow with rest. They where not as bad as yours but anyway that is just a hobby. After full cleanup I'll probably paint the metal to protect it (not yet sure if in color as yellow can sound too bright 😀 or just transparent) You can also change "hat" (wooden/cardboard?) of that small air coil. But be carefull with screew that holds it or originality police will hunt you down. Somewhere here there is longer discussion about that screw becoming ferromagnetic a t some point making it no longer air core. If this was by accident or by purpose and if it does good or harm is not conclusive for me. Only concern for me would be if rats work can be undone or neutralized on YOURS.

I would place something thick and soft (blanket, pillows) on the floor between mic and La Scala, some of those could be reflection effects.

You are right about hijacking. My last post here on this topic. Saw for ex something like that but this is not producers info so you could be right too that those are mylar.

I see you have noticed that trick too :). Anyway screenshots are old tech I'm still using.

no Really? I did to you exactly same as you did to Dave post. Picked only part of his statement that makes it opposite sense to what someone said or even senseless. I see you do it a lot like that in here. What is a point? Are you in type of those new activists that try to cancel not only those who don't agree with them but also those who dare to ask a questions? Klipsch's products are good enough to speak for themselves, they don't need someone who chases everyone with baseball bat.