Bacek

Answer for mine La Scalas is for sure veneering because they have too many dents. Also I did some tests on birch staining with multiple stains and actually I don't like results. So probably I will use walnut too. But I'm struggling with how to veneer part around horns. Probably I will veneer board edges separately from "face" like on original version. Don't like flat look like on Volti restoration.

If you want to keep original drivers I definitely prefer what was in Cornwall I (k55/k77, those which where used in La Scalas and KHorns continuously). If you want swaps then it does not matter, cheaper will be better.

Ex Najda DSP, unfortunately dead already so only second hand. Mine works fine so far.

They are looking great. I'm planing La Scalas veneering with American walnut. Had some doubts about it but as we see it looks fantastic. What is the finish on them?

This is nice way to cut gaskets. https://www.ebay.com/itm/221926820295?epid=1141794114&hash=item33abde89c7:g:b40AAOSwlV9WTMDU Although ID will have to be 19mm in this case.

For sure I would check the gaskets first. If those were K-55M not K-55V then sometimes on Ms back cap was ungluing itself, causing distorted sound. Also check if everything is screwed correctly, maybe it's mechanical buzz.

If you put more Danish oil layers, eventually it will look like lacquered/heavy gloss. But smells slightly funny. It's easier to scratch that real lacquer but also easier to repair after.

Original La Scala is simpler (to built). Does not have those miter or dado joints.

For a start auto transformer increases impedance seen by C2. And not sure raw impedance's you have chosen are correct. For ex. K33 is 4 Ohm impedance speaker. Horn loaded it will be higher but it's not the case as it's Cornwall so judging by measurement around 400Hz it's closer to 5 or 6 Ohms. For other it will be similar + additionaly autotransformer impact. K77 impedance looks closer to 7.5. And then other factors needs to be taken into consideration as actual frequency response and more. Calculator you have used is good only for ideal drivers with flat response and same efficiency.

As for accuracy, on my AA crossover, there was factory mounted 14 uF capacitor instead of 13uF as in XO schematics. It was combination of two other values.

If you want cheap, exact 2uF you can search for electric motor start capacitors (Klipsch was also using them at some point, saw pictures of AL-3 with similar type). Those are polypropylene foil capacitors. As bonus the can be easily mounted Klipsch style. with a single screw only.

That may be the picture but they look glossy. So question is if they are stained or lacquered. If second then I would not put oil on it. Will not do anything on lacquered surfices and will highlight flaws.

To get raw idea you can check T2A specs. Shouldn't be far, but this has fixed 4dB attenuation.

Ok, I found another example. This time on K33 (B?) actually. Previous movie looks more professional but treatment is similar.

Found some tutorial on JBL speaker. Probably that part was missed. So for K33 I too should use polyvinyl glue?