Ed Wolinski

Here is my opinion on the AA vs AL: Test Method: CD into home stereo (decent output) power amp. Did not send signal into the Presonus sound board. No Graphic EQ or real time analysis. Just CD>power amp>speakers. AL Inductor coil screws were removed and replaced with stainless steel screws, same with the AAs. AA compared to AL: (The AA units have been recapped) ...It sounds to me that the AL crossovers sound fuller. More bass presence. I would think that if I invested in recapping the ALs, they might come close to the AA units when it comes to a nice, even, clear and full output. The AAs seem to be a bit off when it comes to bass output. Recapping the AAs was well worth the price, time and effort. The original caps measurements were not far off, but I recapped them anyway (these units are circa 1978-79)... Low 4 digit serial numbers. If I was not going to sell the aluminum framed pair, I would do the recap to the ALs. Side note: Both AL crossovers had a steel screw in the taller inductor coil, and a brass screw in the shorter inductor coil. Many thanks to all who participated in this thread. Y'all were a great help. Def appreciate not flaming me the new guy like some other boards tend to do.

Will def get back to you on this as soon as I have the AL Equipped units restored.

I will get some pics uploaded as soon as I find a way to get the Faux to show up clearly.

Many thanks to all who provided input on me the new guy's requests for 6 40 some year old La Scalas. Here is the update: The 4 Non-Framed La Scalas have been cleaned, inspected, JEM recapped and painted with the recommended Dura-Tex. They have been played thru with different inductor coil mechanical fasteners. In all honesty, I believe that the stainless steel screw makes the most pleasing difference in the final product with regard to using steel, brass, nothing, a wood stick or a spot of RTV. The Dura-Tex coating I created was indeed the 'leather look". Looks great. Also sent some input info on the faux leather process back to the guy at Dura-Tex. He emailed back and thanked me for the input. Right now, I have 4 of the 6 200 watt La Scalas looking sharp and playing L O U D. Finally, I have found that all 6 of them are labeled "industrial" on the back panel. The aluminum framed pair are still undergoing restoration. Interesting side note on the AL Crossovers...Both AL crossovers were found to have one Brass and one Steel screw installed (looked like factory) when removed. Thanks again for all of your help.

I am planning on selling the LSI's as soon as I receive the eBay 15" speaker that was recommended above in one and both checked out to be sure both are working properly. Regarding any upgrading the AL crossovers, that is on hold until I get to hear them. The transformer I need is for a Biamp 1642 sound board. Looking for a board like this to be a parts donor or outright buy one that works, if anybody has a line on one.

Speaker off of eBay has been ordered. Thank you for the heads up. Regarding the AL, I will need to get both up and running before I piddle about with the AL. JEM tells me that his AL kit is 125$. Seems reasonable for 2 cabinets...I might just have to settle for a good used mudshark that I can use for a parts donor.

I have to locate a 15” woofer for one of the LSI’s; replaced the tweet diaphragms last night. Need to find a line on obtaining the correct woofer before I can proceed.

Ok. So given the fact that these ALs are 40 years old it would be prudent to recap them with a kit from JEM?

Excellent information on my first post here. Now for another trip to the well of knowledge: AL crossovers (I have them in the LSI's). Looks to me (I am no electrical engineer) like it is basically 2 AA crossovers built into one. Why? Everything on the AL looks to be a doubled duplicate of the AA. I have already emailed JEM for info on recap kits and I need to go get more non -ferrous screws for the double inductors (lol). ---Actually, I am seriously considering bolting all of the inductors down with nylon--- all ferrous/electrical transfer issues would be eliminated --- Please provide any thoughts on upgrades, modifications, good, bad, etc.

I could not be happier with the new capacitor replacement kits from JEM. Listening to a pair side by side (one uncapped and the other with new caps) has a noticeable difference. The uncapped one sounded a bit “muddy”. Well worth the time, money and effort to recap them.

Ah. Cool. A PDF on the website shows where one can do a 'leather look'. I have a wall in my living room that is painted red & black faux leather. This is the ticket. THANK YOU!

Thanks for all of the great input. As a new guy here I never expected 5 pages of discussion and the tremendous amount of help that was provided by y'all. Many thanks for the tip on JEM; my first (of many to come) transactions with him was perfect. Now to the screw. This is (to my ears, at least, I hear nuances in music very well, more than most people I know) different with a stainless screw in place. I have to get some brass screws to further my investigation. As I stated before the output is crisper, brighter, but not 'trebly'. Hard to explain; but noticeable. Perhaps more 'presence' is the word I am groping for. Two of the 6 have been recapped and stainless screws are in place. Next in line for those 2 is some light sanding and a good exterior paint job that might match the original finish. Still looking for further advice on that avenue.

Recapped the first AA crossover with parts ordered from Jim from JEM per advice form this thread. . First, a shout out to JEM. Ordered on kits Friday, received them on Saturday. VERY Securely Packaged. Can't say enough good about the entire transaction with JEM. Clear and concise instructions were provided. PLUS a "call if you cannot figure it out or have problems phone number". Cool. Installed the caps. My three cans were a tiny but damp on top, but not leaking. Measuring the uF, they were actually not that far off. Maybe .3 uF on each. In any case, fired two up (one with new caps AND a stainless steel crew in the inductor) and a stock uncapped one. Results: The recapped speaker (WITH the stainless steel inductor screw in place) is noticeably brighter sounding. Not 'trebly', but more of a crisper, cleaner sound. Will do the other xover in the next couple day and then do the screw swaps. Will advise if any improvement/detraction is noted with various screws.

The back story is quite lengthy. Short version: they were originally bought by me, (I still have the warranty cards) in the late 70's/early 80s. A lot of music went thru those cabs. I distinctly remember doing the house mix for 3 Dog Night in 1981. I measured 111 dB SPL at a Biamp 1642 mixing console (that I desperately need a transformer for & cant find any donors); the board placement was 70 feet from the speakers...backed out all of the limits and protection....The La Scalas took the abuse but I DID blow 3 JBL 2220's...). EDIT (I neglected this part): Many years went by and I lost them due to a job change. More years went by and I found all of them banished to a basement. I inquired about getting them and they are now back in my possession!!! Plans? First, I need to get them cleaned out and the 15's inspected. I have found that I need to replace 2 tweet diaphragms (will order from JEM), and plan on recapping the AA crossovers. On the LSI's, I an thinking of polishing up the exterior skeleton aluminum trim. The fiberglass mat looks ok; might do a quick coat of clear. On the other 4, a light sand and repaint with a highly recommended good grade of paint (paint brand yet to be found out, any thoughts?) is on the things-to-do list. Once I get the LSI's sorted out I will probably put them on the market. The other 4? Not sure. Might sell 2 of the 4 if someone makes me an offer I cannot refuse, def keeping 2 for sure.

You guys are amazing. Just to see, I am going to do the test as described above with various non-magnetic crews, the original magnetic screw and a piece of duct tape. I will report the results if I can discern any aural enhancement/detraction.

Thanks for the quick reply 001. I can understand the 'bump". I have already checked the screws. All are magnetic. Once I get everything sorted out, cleaned and working, I will take a few moments and road test the audio with and without magnetic screws. Might be awesome to actually hear the difference.

I have read thru some of the postings about the advice about replacing the 'magnetic' screw with brass or stainless steel, and plan to replace them all today. My questions on this are: exactly how does the magnetic screw affect the sound, and, given the crossovers are 40 some years old, will this make any discernable difference?

Photo with back panel removed.

Thanks for all of the rapid and helpful replies! I really appreciate it. I understand that JEM is in Bethel Park, PA. I am actually not to far from there. I will contact him soon for the K-77 diaphragms. Picture? No problem; 1 attached! (I had to crop it to get to the 2 MB max limit)... I'll get a few more up tomorrow. Inside the xover/squawk horn area is remarkably free of dust for cabs this old. Can I please have the correct ohm readings for the drivers and woofer? I am seeing variances from 5.6 to 10.5 ohms...Next project on the board is pull the 15's, inspect cones and remove dust. I will take up the advice on swapping the AA/AL and advise. Would all of you agree that recapping the AAs at this point is the ticket? IF so I will get them from JEM also. Thanks again for the help. I really appreciate it. Some of the other boards (especially home distilling) I am on really diss the new guy. Not like that here ands it is really nice. One really off the wall Non-Klipsch question, if I may....anybody have a Biamp model 1642 or 2442 sound board collecting dust? I have one in near perfect condition; my board repair service guy says it needs a transformer and he cannot find one anywhere.

Hi. New to the forum. Been looking at a lot of posts; very helpful! So here I am...Proud owner of 6 (yes 6) Klipsch La Scalas that I recently acquired. I am going thru them one by one testing the components. I have a few questions that perhaps some could possibly help me with. First, these are one piece cabinets. First, it looks like I need the proper ohm reading for the tweet, squawk and woofer (so I am sure if good or bad). One tweet reads zero; I will have to find a viable supplier. These solid black cabinets are circa 1980ish... Serial numbers are as follows: 1966, 1967, 2002, 2003. These have AA crossovers. Serial numbers (with aluminum exterior framing) 1430& 1433 have AL crossovers. Second, I will assume that most responses will say to replace the caps in the AA xovers, which I can easily do. The AL xover I am not too sure about. Looks a lot more sophisticated with more electronic parts. Reading the forums, would also assume that the AL xover needs to either be modified/upgraded or replaced. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!